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How To Cure Fungus on Your Fish

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If your fish has a white- or gray-colored growth on its mouth or body (often with a fluffy texture like cotton), it could have a fungal infection. Fungal outbreaks are often caused by stressful or poor water quality conditions and can rapidly lead to secondary diseases, so it’s important to address the problem immediately. In this article, we cover several options for treating fungus, as well as how to stop it from coming back.

When you see any symptoms of illness, the first thing we always recommend is a thorough cleaning of the aquarium. We want to make sure the fish’s environment is optimal and free of any stress factors before we start treatment. Scrub the glass so that you can easily see the fish’s condition, clean out the detritus in your filter, and use a siphon to vacuum the substrate and change the water.

Fungus is often preventable, so the next step is to find the cause of the infection. There’s no point in treating the fish if we don’t stop the source of the problem because then the fungus may come back again in full force.

What Causes Fungus in Fish?

Poor water conditions are a common cause of fungal infections. We see many betta fish with this disease because they’re often kept in tiny containers with no heater or filter. Bettas enjoy temperatures around 78 to 80°F, which means they need a heater if your room temperature is below this range. Also, it helps to house them in an aquarium that holds at least 5 gallons or more to prevent their waste from quickly fouling the water. Doing regular partial water changes and adding live plants (especially floating plants) to a fish tank helps to remove toxic waste compounds before they affect your betta’s health.

Nutrient deficiencies can be another reason why fish get fungus. Fish, like people, need a well-rounded diet to be healthy enough to fight off diseases. Feeding fish from the same jar of flakes all the time is like feeding a person only hamburgers every day. Sure, they can survive, but their bodies probably aren’t in tip top condition. Therefore, make sure to a) provide a wide assortment of foods so that they get all their essential nutrients and b) give them fresh, high-quality foods. Yes, the expiration date on the container may say the food is good for another three years, but every time you open the container, more air and moisture get inside, causing the food to become stale in a matter of months. If you don’t have enough fish to finish the jar in a short amount of time, consider splitting up the food into smaller bags and freezing them to preserve their freshness until you’re ready to use them. Finally, avoid using wet fingers to get food out of the container because this causes the food to become moldy, which can result in fungus or other diseases.

Fish foods

Feed your fish a variety of high-quality foods to make sure they get all the vital nutrients to boost their immune systems.

Many livebearers like fancy guppies and mollies often get fungal infections soon after bringing them home from the pet store. We have a whole article that dives into why livebearers in the aquarium industry are no longer as hardy, but essentially these fish are mass-bred in countries where fresh water is expensive to come by. Therefore, it’s cheaper to raise them in a mix of fresh water and salt water. When your guppies have been raised in brackish water for their entire lives and then suddenly get dropped into a purely freshwater environment, they’re often left in a very weakened state that makes them susceptible to foreign pathogens like fungus spores.

Bottom line: aim to eliminate as many stress sources as possible. Minimize bullying and food aggression among African cichlids. Vacuum the gravel more frequently for bottom dwellers, and keep the water quality high for sensitive species. Avoid keeping shy fish around loud TVs, bright lights that create moving shadows, or high traffic areas in your home. Consider moving older animals that have weaker immune systems into a “retirement tank” with less activity and competition.

How Do You Get Rid of Fungus on Fish?

If your fish’s mouth shows signs of fungus or rot, we recommend using Maracyn. Certain bacterial infections (such as columnaris) look like cottony growths or grayish-white patches around the mouth and thus should be treated with an antibiotic. Before treatment, clean the aquarium and remove any chemical filtration (like activated carbon or Purigen resin). Follow the instructions listed by the manufacturer by dosing 1 packet per 10 gallons of water and repeating every 24 hours for 5 days. Make sure to complete the full 5-day treatment of medication, even if the symptoms seem to disappear, because the infection could still be present in the fish’s system.

If the fungus is located elsewhere on the fish’s body, use a combination of Maracyn and Ich-X. Ich-X contains formaldehyde, methanol, and malachite green chloride, which are effective against fungal infections. Before treatment, clean the aquarium and remove any chemical filtration. If the fungal infection is minor, dose 1 packet of Maracyn and 1 tsp of Ich-X per 10 gallons of water at the same time. Let it soak for one full week, and make sure the symptoms completely disappear. If the symptoms still remain or if the fungal infection is severe to begin with, use 1 packet of Maracyn and 1 tsp of Ich-X per 10 gallons of water, and repeat the dose every 24 hours for 5 days in a row.

If you don’t have a planted aquarium or you’re able to move your fish into a quarantine tank with only fake decor, salt is a great way to treat both mouth and body fungus. You can use any form of regular salt made of sodium chloride (NaCl), but for the purposes of this article, we’re using aquarium salt or rock salt – not table salt, marine salt, or Epsom salt.

After many years of using salt for medicinal purposes, we have found that most tetras, barbs, danios, African cichlids, livebearers, betta fish, goldfish, shrimp, and even plecos are tolerant of salt. However, other fish like anchor catfish are very sensitive to it and should never be exposed to salt. To make sure your fish can endure the salt treatment, start with a low concentration of 1 tablespoon of salt per 3 gallons of water. If the fish is healed after one week, gradually remove the salt via a series of weekly 30% water changes. If the fungus is still active, you’ll need to increase the salt concentration. For detailed instructions on how to do this, please continue reading our full article on salt dosing. You can also use salt in conjunction with Ich-X to pack a powerful one-two punch against the fungus.

Will Other Fungal Medications Work?

In our experience, herbal remedies are not very effective against fungal infections. Once the disease takes hold of a fish, they need stronger medications for a better chance of saving their lives. After many years of running a fish store and helping hundreds of customers, Maracyn, Ich-X, and salt are the treatments we have found that work best against fish fungus.

Ultimately, fungal spores are always present in our aquariums, but full-blown infections are usually preventable. The key is to boost your fish’s health and give them the clean, stress-free environment and necessary nutrients they need to fight it off.

Nitrite in Your Aquarium

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Nitrate level
Nitrite value testing

Fish excrete ammonia through their gills as their nitrogenous waste product. The toxic ammonia is converted by beneficial bacteria in the aquarium to nitrite, which is also toxic to the fish. Fortunately, in an established aquarium that has completely cycled, other bacteria convert nitrite into harmless nitrate. However, in new aquariums where the bacteria population hasn’t grown adequately to detoxify the wastes from the fish in the aquarium, ammonia can build up to toxic levels quickly.

Nitrite poisoning follows closely on the heels of elevated ammonia as a major killer of aquarium fish. Just when you think you are home free after losing half your fish to ammonia poisoning, the nitrite level rises and puts your fish at risk again. Anytime ammonia levels are elevated, elevated nitrite will soon follow. To avoid nitrite poisoning, test the water when setting up a new tank, when adding new fish to an established tank, when the filter fails due to power or mechanical failure, and when medicating sick fish.

  • Names: Brown Blood Disease, Nitrite Poisoning
  • Disease Type: Environmental
  • Cause / Organism: Nitrite

Symptoms

  • Fish gasp for breath at the water surface
  • Fish hang near water outlets
  • Fish are listless
  • Brown gills
  • Rapid gill movement

Nitrite poisoning is also known as “brown blood disease” because the blood turns brown from an increase of methemoglobin. However, methemoglobin causes a more serious problem than just changing the color of the blood. It renders the blood unable to carry oxygen, and the fish can literally suffocate even though there is ample oxygen present in the water.

Different species of fish tolerate different levels of nitrite. Some fish may simply be listless, while others may die suddenly with no obvious signs of illness. Common symptoms include gasping at the surface of the water, hanging near water outlets, rapid gill movement, and a change in gill color from the normal pink to dark brown.

Fish that are exposed to even low levels of nitrite for long periods of time suffer damage to their immune system and are prone to secondary diseases, such as ich, fin rot, and bacterial infections. As methemoglobin levels increase, damage occurs to the liver, gills, and blood cells. If untreated, affected fish eventually die from lack of oxygen and/or secondary diseases.

Treatment of Nitrite Poisoning

  • Large water change
  • Add aquarium salt (sodium chloride) or a marine salt mix
  • Reduce feeding
  • Increase aeration

First, perform water changes with dechlorinated water to reduce the nitrite level. The addition of a half-ounce (1 tablespoon) of salt per gallon of water will prevent methemoglobin toxicity by blocking the nitrite absorption through the fish’s gills. Any aquarium salt or marine salt mix can be used. Do not use iodized table salt. Aeration should be increased to provide ample oxygen saturation in the water. Feedings should be reduced and no new fish should be added to the tank until the ammonia and nitrite levels have fallen to zero. That will reduce the formation of excess ammonia, which will be converted to nitrite. It is critical to continue daily testing and treatment until the nitrite level falls to zero.

Prevention Tips

  • Stock new tanks slowly
  • Feed sparingly and remove uneaten food
  • Change water regularly
  • Test water regularly to catch problems early

The key to eliminating fish death is to avoid extreme spikes and prolonged elevation of nitrite. When starting a new tank, add only a couple of fish initially and do not add more until the tank is completely cycled. That way the population of beneficial bacteria will grow as the level of ammonia produced by the fish increases. In an established tank, only add a couple of new fish at a time and avoid overstocking.

Feed fish small quantities of foods and remove any food not consumed in five minutes. Clean the tank weekly, taking care to remove any dead plants or other debris. Perform a partial water change at least every other week, more often in small, heavily-stocked tanks. Always test the water for nitrite after an ammonia spike has occurred as there will be a nitrite increase later. The beneficial bacteria in the biofilter will eventually convert the nitrite into harmless nitrate, but that too should be removed by periodic partial water changes.

Goldfish Lice Treatment

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Goldfish lice (Argulus trilineatus) are a member of the Copepod family, so are not actually lice at all but crustaceans.

Female goldfish louse
Female Louse (Argulus trilineatus)

Fully grown they are 3-4mm round and translucent.  This makes them quite hard to see as they fasten themselves flat against the body of their host.  The female (shown) is slightly larger than the male.

A heavy infestation can weaken a goldfish from blood loss to the point where it will die.

Signs of infestation are when fish are seen rubbing themselves vigorously against any available object in the pond or aquarium. This behavior often causes injury to scales and fins and is more dangerous to the fish than the lice themselves.

Goldfish Lice Sources

Infested fish introduced into the pond or aquarium is an obvious source, but plants gathered from the wild that haven’t been sterilized are often the culprit.

Treatment Options

Dipterex (Dylox neguvon) is effective in combating lice.

It is an insecticide that is soluble in water, comes in liquid or powder form and comes in different potencies ranging from 40 to 98%.

Try and find Dipterex with 98% potency as the doses below are based on this potency level.  If you can only find lower potency levels, you will have to calculate how much you need based on the doses below.

The treatments for pond and aquarium are different, but the dosage is the same for each. Below are several measurement options:

Dipterex  Dosage

  • 1 part Dipterex to 3-5 million parts water or
  • 1 milliliter to 660 -1100 Imp gallons of water or
  • 1 milliliter to 790 – 1320 US gallons of water.

Be accurate with measuring the dose because above 1.60 ppm Dipterex is acutely toxic to fish.  For freshwater invertebrates it is toxic in ppb (parts per billion) so dose on the low side rather than the high.

Pond Treatment

Treat the pond three times at 7 day intervals.

There should be some form of water circulation to spread the Dipterex evenly throughout the pond.

Dipterex isn’t stable in water and breaks down after a few days.  The lice eggs survive the treatment but emerging parasites are killed by the follow-up treatments.

Aquarium Treatment

In an aquarium, the lice normally drop off the goldfish within two hours.  After this happens, move the fish into a mild salt bath of two teaspoons per gallon of non-iodized salt for a couple of days.

Another treatment option available, especially if the infestation is only one or two lice, is dabbing the louse with a cotton bud that has been dipped in a 50/50 solution of Kerosene and Turpentine.  Be careful not to get any of the solution into the gills, mouth or eyes of the fish.

The louse may still need to be removed with tweezers.

Sterilize the aquarium completely (including plants) to kill any adults or nauplii.

A safer more convenient treatment is to use something like Ecological Labs LAWP16 Microbe Lift Lice and Anchor Worm treatment.

As stated on the bottle, this medication will also treat anchor worm which is a convenient bonus but not surprising as both are crustaceans.

Follow the manufacturer’s instructions and monitor your goldfish carefully for signs of toxic reaction such as lethargy, gasping at the surface or turning on its side.

How to Hatch Brine Shrimp Eggs

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Brine shrimp hatchery
Hatching Brine Shrimp Eggs

Instructions and Guidelines

Storing Brine Shrimp Eggs

Brine shrimp eggs should to be stored as follows:

  • free from moisture; and
  • in a cool environment at or below 50°F.

Hatching Environment

Follow these guidelines for the best results:

  • Salinity: 
    Approximately 11/2 tablespoons of salt per quart (or liter) of water. This equates to about 1.018 specific gravity as measured with a hydrometer. Aquarium, sea or non-iodized table salt can be used.
  • pH: 
    Proper pH is important in hatching brine shrimp. A starting pH of 8.0 or higher is recommended. If the pH of your water is below 7, Epson salt or baking soda can be added at the rate of 1/2 teaspoon per quart.
  • Temperature: 
    Optimum water temperature for a 24-hour complete hatch is 80-82°F. Lower temperature will result in a longer hatching time, but do not exceed 86°F.
  • Light: 
    Illumination can be added to get the best hatching rate, but is not absolutely critical.
  • Aeration: 
    Constant aeration is necessary to keep cysts in suspension and to provide sufficient oxygen levels for the cysts to hatch. A nice steady stream of aeration that tumbles the eggs without pushing them above the water surface and onto the side of the hatching cone.
  • Stocking Density: 
    1 gram per liter or quart or approximately 1/2 level teaspoon of cysts per quart is recommended. A higher stocking density will result in a lower hatch percentage.
  • Hatching Cone: 
    Flat-bottom hatching vessels should be avoided. Cone or “V” bottomed containers are best to insure that the cysts remain in suspension during hatching. Be sure to thoroughly wash the hatching cone with a light chlorine solution, rinse, and allow to air-dry between uses.

Hatching Procedure

The following steps will achieve optimum brine shrimp egg hatch rates.


Set Up: 
Place hatching cone or similarly shaped vessel in well-lit area. Cone should be semi-translucent for ease of harvesting and light transmission.

Add Water: 
Fill cone with one liter of water and add 11/2 tablespoons of salt. Optimum hatching temperature is 82°F (28°C).

Add Cysts: 
Add cysts at the rate of 1 gram per liter or quart or approximately 1/2 level teaspoon of cysts per quart is recommended. A higher stocking density will result in a lower hatch percentage.

Aerate:
Provide adequate aeration to keep cysts in suspension.

Hatch:
Depending upon water temperature, cysts should hatch in approximately 18-36 hours.

Harvest:
After hatching brine shrimp, turn off or remove aeration and wait several minutes for the shells and and baby brine shrimp (or nauplii) to separate. Newly hatched nauplii will settle to the bottom of the cone or move towards a light source; the shells will float to the surface. The egg shells are brown in color and the baby brine shrimp are more orange. Once separated, the nauplii can be siphoned from the bottom with a length of air tubing or gently drained through the bottom of the cone through a valve, if so equipped.

Rinse:
The warm incubation temperatures and metabolites from the hatching medium create ideal conditions for a bacteria bloom. Rinsing of the baby brine shrimp in a fine mesh net or sieve using clean fresh or salt water is important before feeding them to your fish.

Clean Equipment: 
Tanks and brine shrimp hatching equipment should be cleaned and disinfected routinely.

What are the guidelines for Artemia cysts?

Salinity – 20 – 30 parts per thousand (ppt) salt solution or approximately 1-2 tablespoons of rock salt per quart (or liter) of water. This equates to around 1.015-1.020 specific gravity. A 20% (or around 1/2 teaspoon per quart) concentration of Epson salt or magnesium sulfate can be added to further buffer the hatching solution. Temperature – Optimum temperature for a 24 hour complete hatch 26-28° C. Lowering the temperature would result in a longer hatching time. Do not exceed 30°C. Light – Illumination is necessary to trigger the hatching mechanism within the embryo within the first few hours of incubation. Maintaining a light source during the entire incubation period is recommended to obtain optimum hatch results and for temperature control. Aeration – Constant aeration is also necessary to provide sufficient oxygen levels for the cysts to metabolize and hatch. A minimum of 3 parts per million dissolved oxygen during the incubation is recommended. Strong aeration will not damage or hurt the brine shrimp cysts or nauplii. pH – A starting pH of 8.0 or higher is recommended. If pH drops below 7.5 during incubation, add a teaspoon of sodium bicarbonate or a pH buffer to raise it above 8.0. Stocking Density – 2 grams per quart or approximately one level teaspoon of cysts per quart is recommended. A higher stocking density will result in a lower % hatch. Hatching Cone – Flat bottom hatching vessels should be avoided. Cone or “V” bottomed containers are best to insure that the cysts remain in suspension during hatching. Be sure to thoroughly wash the hatching cone with soap and water and allow to air dry between uses.

How do I harvest the baby brine shrimp?

To harvest the baby brine shrimp or nauplii, simply shut off the air and wait a few minutes for the shells and nauplii to separate. The shells will float to the surface and the live nauplii will go to the bottom of the cone towards the light source. Once separated, the nauplii can be siphoned from the bottom or drained from the bottom of the cone through the air tubing.

How to Treat Yellow or Brown Aquarium Water

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Aquarium water is normally clear and colorless, but from time to time it can become cloudy or tinted. Unexpected yellow or brownish colored water is usually a sign of trouble, although there are cases when it is not a problem. To ensure that your aquarium habitat is safe for your fish, investigate yellow or brown water promptly to determine the root cause so you can correct it if needed.

Bacteria

Bacteria overgrowth, often referred to as bacterial blossom or bloom, will cause cloudiness. The water may appear to be gray or milky, but bacteria do not tint the water yellow, brown, or even green. Anytime the water takes on a distinctly yellow or brown tint, the problem is dissolved organic material rather than bacteria, so you can rule out bacterial blossom as the root cause.

Keep in mind that there can be multiple issues going on at the same time. If you have tinted water that is also very cloudy rather that clear, you may have a couple of different issues to contend with.

Dissolved Organic Compounds

Tinted or cloudy water is often caused by dissolved organic compounds, but what does that mean? Dissolved organic compounds are the organic matter that has broken down in the water. It could be fish waste, uneaten food that has decayed, decaying plant parts, or even a dead, decomposing fish parts.

All of these sources can result in organic compounds that dissolve in the water, which can change its makeup. These compounds ultimately impact the health of your fish. Over time, these compounds will contribute to changes in the water chemistry that are harmful to the fish. Dissolved organic compounds will also give rise to unpleasant odors and make the aquarium look less attractive.

Tannins

The presence of tannins is one cause of brown or yellow water that is usually not a problem. Tannins are present in driftwood, and over time they will leach into the aquarium water, staining it yellow to brown. Tannins lower the pH of the water and soften it. For some fish, this may be desirable and even recommended. This is particularly true of fish from South America that requires soft acidic water to thrive and promote spawning.

Troubleshooting Steps

A few indicators can provide clues as to the root cause of water discoloration and resolving the problem.

The first step is to test the water and determine the pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Also, examine the tank carefully. Do you notice a lot of debris? Are there dead plants, uneaten food on the substrate, perhaps even a missing fish that might be hidden somewhere and decomposing? Do you have any driftwood in the tank? Is the filter running normally? Does the water have foam on the surface? If you take some water and put it in a closed container and shake it, does it produce foam? Foam is an indicator of protein wastes in the water.

illustration of causes and fixes of brown or yellow aquarium water
Illustration: Nusha Ashjaee. © The Spruce, 2018

Fixing the Water Discoloration

Once you have completed your tests and observations, you can determine the next course of action.

  • Tannins: An acidic pH along with driftwood in the tank is a strong indicator that tannins have leached from the driftwood. This is not a problem unless you are keeping fish that require a significantly higher pH. If driftwood is the cause, the tinted water will clear over time, as the tannins in the driftwood will eventually deplete. If you keep fish that require an alkaline pH, consider changing your aquarium decor to something that will not lower the pH.
  • Biologicals: If the ammonia or nitrite levels are elevated, then the biologicals or natural bacteria in the tank are not stabilized sufficiently to keep toxins in check. Because both ammonia and nitrite are potentially lethal to fish, take steps immediately to lower them. Your quickest course of action is to do a large water change. A 50 percent water change will dilute the concentration of toxins in your aquarium by roughly half. You should test for ammonia and nitrites after the water change.
  • Organics: If the tank has lots of uneaten food, decayed plants, or possibly a dead fish, it needs cleanup. Likewise, if the water is foamy or foams when shaken, there are a lot of dissolved organics in the water. Clean things up by removing all decaying material such as uneaten food, dead plants, or a fish corpse. Vacuum the gravel and make sure the filter is running at a normal output. If the filter is slow, odds are it’s clogged with debris, which is another potential source of organics.

Do Not Clean Out the Entire Tank

Even if your tank is really dirty, do not clean everything on the same day. Stagger the cleaning regimen to give the fish a chance to adjust to the changes. It will also give your biological colonies a chance to recover as well. If you disrupt the filter and gravel bed at the same time, you could make things worse instead of better. Do one, wait a week, and then do the other.

It may take some time to clear up the water, but eventually, it will resolve. Continue a regimen of regular maintenance and the problem is not likely to recur.

How to breed Zebrafish

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Water chemistry: Zebera danios are very tolerant of water conditions and temperature. For breeding purposes, we will go with a PH of 6.6 – 6.8, temperature of 78-82 degrees F.

Sexing Zebrafish: Zebra fish are easy to sex if you know what to look for. The males are more streamlined in appearance that the females and the females have a more compressed looking body, not to mention the extra girth that they have at their abdomen when loaded with eggs after conditioning. Take a look at the picture at the top left of this article. The Zebra in the picture on top is a male. The one below is a female. Study the shape of these two fish for a while and you’ll get it. Piece of cake!

Selecting and conditioning the breeders: Place about a dozen mature (about the size of 1 1/2 inches) Zebrafish in a 10 gallon or larger aquarium. Make the PH 7.0 or neutral at this point and temperature at 72-74 degrees F.(We will lower the PH and raise the temperature when we are ready to breed them.)

For conditioning, feed them a variety of frozen and flake food 3-5 times a day until you see that the females load up with eggs and can surely tell males from females. This should take 2-3 weeks.

Setting up the breeding tank: For breeding purposes we will need a 5 1/2 gallon tank, 25 watt submersible heater, air stone supplied with air from a vibrator pump (we won’t set up the air stone until the fish have laid eggs) and enough marbles to place on the bottom of the tank to a depth of 2 1/2 inches deep across the whole tank bed.

Fill the 5 1/2 gallon tank with a water line about 2 – 2 1/2 inches higher than the marble substrate. Set the PH at 6.6 with a water temperature of 78 degrees F. Keep it there!

Now we will get these baby’s to breed! Since Zebra fish breed in schools, select two or three trios of breeders, 2 males to one egg rich female. Having this ratio of males to females will ensure the fertilization of the eggs and stimulate the breeding process by males and females ready to spawn turning on the other breeders to spawn.

Once in the breeding tank if properly conditioned, the fish should breed within a few days. If they don’t, raise the temperature a few degrees to 80 degrees F and change 5% of the water. Wait another day, change another 5% of the water and raise the temperature to 82 degrees. The third day and there after just do the 5% water change.

Keep feeding them 4-5 times a day until they spawn.

The mating process: Once the fish are in breeding mode, the whole school spawns! The eggs are dropped by the females and the males fertilize them as they drop. Where do they drop? Into the marbles baby! Since Zebrafish will consume there on eggs while breeding, the marbles and the low water line are there to prevent them from doing so. The eggs will drop down through the marbles, bouncing their way down to the bottom of the tank off the marbles where the adult breeders can’t get them.

You have eggs, now what? Once they start breeding it only takes an hour or so for the females to noticeably look thin and streamlined due to dropping their eggs. No rush to pull the breeders out for a few hours, the eggs are protected by the layer of marbles.

Once you are satisfied that the fish are done breeding and the females have no more eggs, net the breeders out and place them back into the conditioning tank, place an airstone in the tank set to slow bubble and 2 drops per gallon of methlene blue or acraflavin fungicide.

It will take about 10 days for the eggs to hatch and fry to become free swimming. They will find there way through the marbles on their own so just watch and wait. When you see them swimming around, add 1/2 quart of water a day of same quality and temperature to the tank to a normal 5 1/2 gallon water level. This will take a few days. When you reach the right water level, add a sponge filter. Change no more than 5% water a day to keep things fresh.

Feeding the fry: For a few days after the fry become free swimming, they won’t need to be fed. They are supplied by nature with an egg sack of which they derive nourishment for a few days to get a head start in life. When the egg sack in the belly region disappears, it’s dinner time!

Zebra Danio fry are too small to eat any kind of commercial fish food, there mouths are too small. Then what do they eat? Microscopic live organisms or Infusoria. You can buy Infusoria tablets at your aquarium shop. You just drop a tablet in the tank and in a few hours, your tank will be infested with live microscopic live fish food for the fry. I would pop a few of these tabs in the tank while the fry still have their egg sacks. Buy the time they are ready to eat, they got food! Another thing you could do is place a 2×2 inch piece of lettuce in the tank at the egg sack stage. This will also produce live food for the fry. In about two weeks time they will be ready to eat live or frozen baby brine shrimp and fine flake food.

Raising the fry: Wait about a month after the free swimming stage, then transfer them into a 20 gallon rearing tank. Feed them everything!

How to Culture Infusoria

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Infusoria are microscopic live organisms that must be available for egg laying fish that are too small to feed on baby Brine shrimp.

How to obtain infusoria

CULTURING INFUSORIA Home culturing of... - Betta Hobbyist Cebu ...

To obtain infusoria, you take a handful of hay or dry leaves and place it into a jar, fill the jar with water from your tank or a pool of water. Leave in the sun for a few days. When the water just starts to get cloudy large unicellulars have sufficient bacteria to feed upon. Once the water begins to clear again, an appropriate culture is available. You can then extract these creatures, with a turkey baster, for example, for feeding to your fry.

To keep infusoria on a continual basis at home, use a mixture of at least two to three of these ingredients: hay, dry leaves, grass blades, vegetable leaves, stalks, or cucumber skin. Add water to let them ferment in an ice-cream tub, which is flatter and provides a larger surface for oxygen to enter the water than a jar. Expose to indirect sunlight. Depending on room temperature, bacteria will thrive during the first three to five days (faster in warmer temperature). The fermenting liquid will give out an unpleasant odor and cloud the water. This liquid should not be fed to fish fry because it contains a high concentration of amonia (or acid if your raw materials contains too much starch) and the bacteria it contains are too small for the fry.

After the initial three to five days, pour 1/3 of the water into a second, smaller, flat, container. Do this twice a day, because fish fry will benefit from frequent but small helpings. Top up the tub with non-chlorinated water (tap water left to stand overnight will do). Add fresh leaves or vegetable scraps every three days. Harvesting should be done regularly, such as on a daily basis, to prevent overcrowding of microorganism that can result in the collapse of the culture.

Dilute the fermented liquid in the second container with another 30% to 50% non-chlorinated water. The liquid at this stage will still smell earthened and unpleasant, but not pungent with amonia. Unicellulars should bloom and peak within 12 to 24 hours. Some of these single cell creatures may be visible as small, mobile, dots by the naked eyes against a dark background and if bright light is shone from the side, which makes an interesting science project. For example, you can place a clear plastic container on black paper upon window sill, then wait a few minutes for any debris to settle before viewing. The microorganism may congregate near the water surface for oxygen and you need to use only the top 2/3 of the water. A kitchen sieve should catch any debris while allowing the unicellulars to drain into your fry nursery tank. The tank should be weakly aerated to prevent algae scum feeding on the nutrient-rich water from accumulating at the water surface and blocking off oxygen.

How to hatch Brine Shrimp

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Let us examine what brine shrimp are, where they are found and harvested.

Brine shrimp are naturally found in lakes that are of very high salt content like the Great Salt Lake in Utah. Most of the adult brine shrimp sold as frozen shrimp or packaged as eggs are harvested there. San Francisco also harvests a similar specie of shrimp but in my experience they are of a smaller type. This article will refer to the eggs obtained from the Great Salt Lake.

Brine shrimp hatchery

There are several methods to hatching brine shrimp, too many to cover them all. I will explain the method I have been using for many years. You can easily adapt the container size or amount of containers for your particular need. Many fish breeders use one gallon pickle jars or cones that are made from glass or Plexiglas. I have been using 2 liter plastic soda bottles for several years now and find them to be easiest. Soda bottles are correctly shaped for shrimp hatching when turned upside down. This creates a funnel or cone shape that helps keep the hatching eggs in constant motion. Cutting of the bottom of the soda bottle is necessary for ease of cleaning. As you can see from the photo I use the plastic carton from the 2 liter soda bottles as a holder for my hatching containers. If smaller or larger bottles are to be used you will need to either make a base or construct a holder to keep the bottles stationary. I also use airline pipe valves drilled into the bottle caps for my air supply. If you decide to use this method make sure to place air line check valves below the containers to avoid draining the container if the air supply is stopped. You can also use rigid tubing attached to your airline and weighted down or clipped to the soda bottle to keep it in place. DO NOT use an air stone to aerate the water as it will create a heavy foam.

So we now have our hatching containers and air supply .A good quality brine shrimp net is also needed. Most better pet shops carry them. What could be added is a light source that is kept near the containers at all times. This will help in the hatching time and will also assist in separating the live shrimp from the spent shells when hatching is completed. Hatching times will vary due to the temperature of the hatch and the quality or source of the eggs. I have learned never to purchase eggs from the local pet shops as these eggs have probably been on the shelf for some time. Mail order suppliers are a good source for purchasing eggs and some brands are better then others. Over the past few years due to world wide use of Utah eggs, El Nino, poor harvests or just plain poor harvesting has plagued the tropical fish industry. Prices have risen, fallen and today have risen again. All in all baby brine shrimp is still the best source for high quality fish food for livebearer fry and juveniles. Few show specimens are ever raised without being fed live baby brine as a first food.

There are several recipes for preparing the hatching solution. I will discuss some of the older formulas first. Kosher salt or non-iodized salt is used at the rate of 4 tablespoons per gallon of water. A ½ teaspoon of either Borax or baking soda is also added to help soften the egg shells. What is important is that a specific gravity between 1.020 -1.025. Although lower gravity works, better hatches are obtained in this range. I have been using sea salt by itself for several years and the hatches are very good. It may be a bit more of an expense for the sea salt but the hatches remain very consistent. Adding some PH Up or baking soda will also increase your hatch. For a two liter bottle filled a little more then ¾ with water I use between 1 ½ – 2 tablespoons of sea salt. I do not add the shrimp eggs until all the salt is completely dissolved. The amount of tanks and or fish will determine how much brine shrimp eggs you will use in each container. I suggest no more then ¼ teaspoon for a small setup and 1 -2 teaspoons for 50 tanks or more. If you cannot use all the shrimp when hatched I suggest placing the unused portion in the refrigerator to be used later that same day. Baby brine shrimp is best fed to your fish about ½ hour to one hour after feeding dried food. The reason is that the dried food will still be in the fishes digestive system and the shrimp when fed will not become digested too quickly. I have no actual proof of this happening but the bellies of my fry seem fuller when fed this way.

Hatching time varies as I have said due to egg quality but temperature will play an important role in hatching time and hatch size. I try to maintain my hatching containers at about 80 degrees which gives me a good hatch between 24 to 36 hours. This is something you will need to experiment with. When you feel the hatch is ready you can either remove or shut of the air supply. I pour my hatch (I use two 2 liter bottles) into a large glass pickle jar which I keep slightly tilted on one side. Allow the hatch to sit for about ten minutes. All the hatched shrimp will collect near the bottom of the jar. If the light source is situated near the jar or container the shrimp will become attracted to the light and will make their removal easier. I use a siphon hose slightly larger then normal air tubing to remove the shrimp. I fill the hose with water and place my finger at one end keeping it lower then the container as I insert the other end into the container. Once the end is at the bottom of the container I release my finger and drain the shrimp into a plastic container. Make sure you stop the siphon before the container is emptied to avoid draining the spent egg shells. I then pour the shrimp into my shrimp net. It is important to rinse the shrimp while in the net under cool fresh water. Next you will turn the net over and with the aid of some running water rinse the net again so the shrimp wash off and are collected into a small container. There are several methods to fed the shrimp but using a turkey baster makes the job quick and easy. Another way to fed the shrimp is by using a mustard type squeeze bottle. I have found semi-clear bottles to be easier than the old turkey baster. After feeding all your fish, babies first, rinse everything off and allow to dry until the next use.

How to change water in your Aquarium

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Even when your aquarium water looks clear, if you stir up the substrate a bit, you may be shocked at how much detritus is present. When fish are fed, particles of food fall to the bottom where they decay. Meanwhile, the food that is eaten is eventually released back into the water as urine or feces, which also adds to the problem of poor water quality. Eventually, these wastes accumulate in the aquarium, both as solid debris in the gravel and as dissolved chemicals such as nitrate and phosphate.

And yet, waste products are not the only reason water needs to be changed. Trace elements and minerals in the water are important both to the stability of the water chemistry and to your fish. Over time, trace elements are either used up or filtered out; if they are not replaced by water changes, the pH of the water will drop. Furthermore, a lack of trace minerals will adversely affect the vigor and health of the fish as well as the biofilter bacteria that remove ammonia from the water. Giving your fish new water regularly is much the same as giving them vitamins and minerals to keep them strong and healthy.

Nitrate and Phosphate Waste

In addition to the debris you can see, other invisible natural waste byproducts called nitrate and phosphate will build up. These put chronic stress on the fish, making them more vulnerable to disease. Elevated nitrate also stunts the growth of young fish and interferes with normal reproduction in adult fish. Nitrate and phosphate also promote the overgrowth of algae; having the effect of fertilizers. Changing the water is the best way to keep nitrate and phosphate levels low.

Frequency of Water Changes

Water changes should be part of regular aquarium maintenance, but the frequency can vary somewhat, depending on size of aquarium and the number of fish. Smaller, heavily stocked tanks will require more frequent water changes than larger, sparsely stocked aquariums.

A good rule is to change 10 to 15 percent of the water each week. If your tank is heavily stocked, bump that up to 20 percent each week. A lightly stocked aquarium can maybe get by for two to four weeks, but this should be the maximum length of time between water changes.

Topping Off for Evaporation

You might think that adding water to the tank is the same thing as changing the water, but that is not the case. Merely adding water does not remove any of the wastes, so do not skimp on the water changes. Simply topping off the aquarium water as it evaporates puts fish at risk of poor health.When you see the water level has dropped, go ahead and use a gravel vacuum to clean the aquarium gravel and remove more water, then add fresh, dechlorinated water to the aquarium to bring it back to the proper level.

illustration of water changes in aquariums

How to feed live food to your fish

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Your pet fish must eat what you serve them, or face starvation (an option that happens all too often). Although flake food is a good staple diet with balanced vitamins and minerals for fish, the vast majority of freshwater fish would literally jump at the chance to have live or even frozen foods.

Flake Food

Before we dive into the topic of live food, let’s talk about flake foods. Realistically, it’s not possible for most of us to provide a completely balanced diet composed of only fresh and frozen foods. Flake food is accepted by a large number of freshwater fish and contains important nutrients your fish needs to stay healthy. However, not all flake foods are created equal.

The next time you purchase flake food take a good look at the ingredients label on the container. What you’ll find is fishmeal, yeast, shrimp meal, algae meal, plankton, kelp, vitamins, preservatives, and protein fillers such as wheat meal, soybean meal, oatmeal, and brown rice. Those last items are fillers. They are necessary to provide an adequate amount of protein but don’t contain the same nutrients and flavor found in shrimp or other food the wild fish would eat.

Remember that ingredients are listed in order of highest volume first, so look for prepared foods that have fishmeal and seafood high on the ingredient list. Once you select a quality flake food, start looking for ways to supplement those boring flakes with fresh or frozen foods.

Also, vitamins in flake foods have a limited storage life, so you should buy food in a quantity that will be used in about a month. If it will take longer to use up the flake food, try storing it in the refrigerator or even freezer to keep it nutritious longer.

The Tubifex Controversy

Tubifex worms have long been heralded as either the worst or the best live food to feed your fish. They are very nutritious and easy to grow at home but can be purchased at many local fish stores. The controversy comes from the risk of them carrying diseases to your home aquarium

Like earthworms (who eat dirt), tubifex are annelid worms that eat whatever material they are raised in. Brace yourself—most commercially bred tubifex worms are raised in trout pond run-offs, which means they live on fish manure. Needless to say, that makes them potential hotbeds for transmitting bacterial or parasitic infections. Disgusting? Yes! But freshwater fish love tubifex worms and thrive on them if they are cleaned properly. So how can you ensure they are safe to feed your fish?

Start by purchasing your live tubifex worms from a reputable store, then carefully examine the water in which they are kept. It should be clear. If it isn’t, don’t purchase them. When you find clean worms, place them in a large container of dechlorinated water, and 3 to 4 times a day rinse them thoroughly until the water runs clear. Store them in the refrigerator and examine the water each morning. If the water is clear they are clean and can be used to feed your fish. Don’t feed them to your fish until the water is clear, so continue to rinse them as needed.

The quality of tubifex will vary from store to store, so if you locate good ones (worms that clean quickly as opposed to ones who are still fouling the water after many days) make note of the supplier. If you find healthy, clean worms, you can start your own colony of tubifex worms by growing them in an aerated tank with an inch of gravel on the bottom and then add small amounts of vegetables (slices of sweet potato are good) or aquarium plant trimmings for food. As they multiply, siphon or net out the worms to feed to your fish.

Almost as good as feeding live tubifex worms, most pet stores sell frozen or even freeze-dried tubifex worms.

Brine Shrimp

One of the best live foods is Artemia, more commonly known as brine shrimp. If you’ve looked around for live brine shrimp you’ve probably discovered they are a bit pricey, or difficult to find at all. Don’t give up. Most fish shops carry a good selection of frozen brine shrimp. The texture and flavor of brine shrimp will vary based on what they were fed and how they are frozen.

Much like people, fish have distinct preferences when it comes to food. Don’t hesitate to try several brands to find the one your fish likes the best. Regardless of whether you try frozen or live Artemia, you will be surprised to see how voraciously even small fish will consume them.

Many fish stores sell dried brine shrimp eggs, and even kits for hatching and raising live brine shrimp at home. Newly hatched brine shrimp are a perfect starter food for baby fish (fry) of many species. They are relatively easy to grow at home.

Other Live Foods

Shrimp aren’t the only “safe” live food available. Experts consider Daphnia, AKA water fleas, one of the top live food choices. They carry none of the diseases that tubifex do, are an excellent source of nutrition for all fish, and can be raised fairly easily.

Daphnia are not commonly found at fish stores, but local fish clubs can usually supply you with a starter colony. The best part of offering Daphnia is the fact that they can live in the aquarium until the fish eat them. Once your fish have gotten the taste of the “good stuff,” you’ll find yourself searching for an even wider variety of live foods. There are plenty of options. Consider the following:

  • Earthworms
  • Grindal worms
  • Maggots (fly larvae)
  • Microworms
  • Mosquito larvae
  • Vinegar eels
  • White worms
  • Wingless fruit flies

Frozen Alternatives

If live food isn’t available, is too costly, or is too much of a hassle to raise, frozen foods are a good alternative. Brine shrimp is the top-selling frozen food, but you shouldn’t limit your fish to only shrimp (even steak gets boring after a while). There are many other frozen foods available, and some even combine several popular foods into a single mix that fish find very appealing.

Spend a little time in the freezer section of your fish store. You won’t find any Macadamia Nut ice cream, but you will find everything from krill, to kelp, to red algae. Wait, aren’t algae and kelp plants? They sure are. Don’t forget that even meat-eating fish will enjoy plants and vegetables. In fact, some vegetarians, such as the plecostomus and other algae eaters, will also eat meat-containing fish foods.

You can satisfy the vegetarians with frozen kelp, frozen or freeze-dried algae, or bits of fresh Romaine lettuce and spinach. The next time you make a salad, wash the greens well and try feeding a small portion to your fish. You might be surprised to see which ones dig into it. What your mother told you about veggies being good for you holds true for your fish too. Fresh vegetables provide vitamins and roughage often lacking in other fish foods.

Whether it’s live or frozen, animal or vegetable, your fish will enjoy having a variety of foods offered to them. Remember, you are the only chef they have.