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17 Types of Tetra Fishes

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Black Tetra

A black tetra swimming among aquarium plants

Originating in South America, the black tetra is not only one of the most popular species in the group but one of the most popular aquarium fish in general.

These modest-looking schooling fish only reach up to about three inches in length. Their small size makes them a great choice for a community tank.

The appearance of black tetras is a beautiful combination of dark shades with pretty black patches running vertically across their bodies and small, ripple-like dots covering the area of their bodies closer to the tail.

Their fins form a neat, densely packed grayish fan that attaches seamlessly to their bodies.

Black tetras are an amazing choice if you are looking for a small yet beautiful addition to your community tank.

Cardinal Tetra

Two cardinal tetras swimming in the dark near the bottom

The cardinal tetra has earned its popularity due to its stunning appearance and size.

Cardinal tetras can grow up to 1.5 inches long in good aquarium conditions, and if you are lucky, they may end up being slightly bigger than that.

These fish belong to the Paracheirodon genus, which is known for fish that exhibit an iconic, bright iridescent line that spans both sides of their bodies. Combined with their outstanding red coloring, these fish put on amazing light shows in the tank when the sunlight hits one of them.

Neon Tetra Fish

Neon tetra swimming near the bottom of a tank

Relatives of the cardinal tetra, neon tetras have been in the aquarium of pretty much every fishkeeper in the world. They come from the same tropical basins of South America as black tetras and cardinal tetras and reach up to 1.5 inches in length.

What separates them from cardinal tetras is the difference in coloring. The upper part of their bodies near the dorsal fin is significantly darker than that of the cardinal tetra and is usually black or greyish.

Neon tetras also tend to have a lot less red on their bodies than cardinal tetras, but they have retained the iconic red line. This line, however, only stretches halfway across their bodies.

Neon tetras are a great choice for a community tank or any other kind of setup that would fit into a small- or medium-sized aquarium.

Green Neon Tetra

A green neon tetra up close

The green neon tetra comes from the same genus and family as both the neon and cardinal tetra. You can easily mistake it for one of these species because of how masterfully it conceals the greenish shade.

Although its appearance is similar to that of its relatives, the green neon’s abdomen has a mix of green, as does the upper part of its body. The signature line of neons also has a greenish shade to it.

Like many other tetras, green neons grow up to 1.5 inches in length.

Flame Tetra

Flame tetra swimming in the foreground

Also referred to as red tetras, flame tetras are known as some of the most beautiful species by aquarium enthusiasts. Their incredible and vibrant appearance will light up any community tank like no other breed.

The scales of the flame tetra are so delicate that its body is almost transparent. The coloration of these fish is an exciting mix of red and orange.

Depending on the individual fish, they may have a couple of black patches closer to their head. Flame tetras are also one of the smaller types of tetras a maximum length of 1.2 inches.

Blue Tetra

A school of blue tetras near the bottom of the tank

An Amazon native, the blue tetra has one of the most unique appearances of all the tetra species, despite largely consisting of only one color. Most of its body is either dark blue or purple, with central parts more saturated and darker.

The iridescence can still be seen in those fish if the lighting is right. If you are looking straight at it and the light hits their side at the right angle, you will witness nature at its finest.

These active little fish reach up to 2.3 inches in length and usually live for up to 3.5 years in good conditions.

Ruby Tetra

A small school of ruby tetras

The ruby tetra is an interesting member of the tetra family.

This species has a very unusual body shape – it’s quite thin, compressed on the sides, and while other species have a more rounded body, this one is prolonged.

The coloring of the ruby tetra consists of light orange with some red gradients, especially closer to the upper side of the body. Its abdomen is white, and so are its fins for the most part. The ruby tetra grows up to 1.6 inches in length but surprisingly, it can grow larger in captivity.

Rainbow Tetra

Rainbow tetra swimming near the bottom

One of the most in-demand aquarium species in the world, the rainbow tetra continues to spark up a flame of excitement in aquarists of all ages. No matter what angle you look at it, it never appears the same twice.

The rainbow tetra is blue, green, white, and grey, but its iridescence is what makes all the colors of the rainbow come together. This tetra species doesn’t get too big, with most adults reaching up to 1.5 inches in length.

This species is a great addition to your community tank and is bound to bring a nice colorful splash into every aquarium.

Ember Tetra

Ember tetra against a planted background

A small, peaceful fish, the ember tetra is a beautiful species. Its personality combined with its vivid appearance makes the ember tetra an outstanding choice for a community tank.

Ember tetras glow bright orange, and their skin is so thin that it makes them look almost transparent.

These little swimmers grow up to one inch in length and are quite easy to care for. They look majestic against a planted background and will be a great fit for a community tank. If you are keeping a planted tank, embers are a must-have!

Lemon Tetra

Lemon tetra

Also native to South America, the lemon tetra is a well-known and sought-after tropical aquarium fish. Its appearance makes it easy to spot, even in a very crowded tank, thanks to its signature bright yellow markings.

Ember tetras are covered in tiny, compressed, densely packed scales, while their eyes are pitch-black with a beautiful red outline. They reach up to two inches in length and are quite easy to breed.

Diamond Tetra

Diamond Tetra

An exquisite jewel among the tetra species, the diamond tetra gets its name from its intricate scale pattern that makes it shine bright like a diamond.

The diamond tetra’s body is greenish in color with a mix of gray, black, and yellow. These fish have beautiful veil-like fins and black eyes that are brightly outlined with vivid red.

They look magical in a medium planted community tank alongside other members of the family or other small freshwater fish. Diamond tetras are not a demanding species and can be easily bred in the tank.

Emperor Tetra

Emperor Tetra

How about a drop of royal blood in your tank?

Emperor tetras are known for their distinct coloring and sturdiness.

An interesting thing to note is the difference between male and female emperors; males have dark purple coloring while females have a more modest grayish coloration.

Originating from Colombia, emperor tetras have become a favorite for many aquarists due to how well they fit into community and single setups. They grow to only about 1.5 inches in captivity and don’t require a lot of attention.

Congo Tetra

Congo Tetra

Coming from the diverse Congo River, the Congo tetra has a radiant appearance. Its main coloration is a unique mix of blue, red, yellow, and green. Its scales are large and easily distinguishable.

The fins of the Congo tetra are mainly gray, with only the tail having a black outer lining.

Congo tetras will stand out in an aquarium not only because of their unique appearance but because of their size. These tetra fish can reach up to three inches in length, which is considered large for this family.

If you are looking for a new exciting fish to add a bit of color to your tank, the Congo is a great choice.

Bloodfin Tetra

A school of bloodfin tetras

Bloodfin tetras are a wonderful choice for beginners because of their sturdiness and sociable attitude.

Like other tetra species, bloodfins love to form schools, which can be an extremely useful characteristic in community tanks.

Bloodfin tetras are grayish with bright red fins, which is where they get their name.

Depending on the individual fish and the environment, the coloration of its fins may be lighter or darker (this is also a good indicator of the water quality in your tank, with darker colors indication healthier fish).

Rummy Nose Tetra

Rummy nose tetras in a school

Showcasing an interesting fusion of styles and color, rummy nose tetras are loved by fishkeepers because of their long lifespans and peaceful temperaments. Their bodies are covered in small, tightly packed scales.

The rummy nose tetra has a bright red head, which is why it has its name. The rummy nose’s tail is a much more tasteful pattern, with an elegant mix of black and white patches.

These fish reach up to 2.5 inches in length and can live for up to 8 years. Not a fish to miss if you are a true aquarium enthusiast.

Buenos Aires Tetra

Buenos Aires tetra

Combining the unique physical characteristics of several other tetras, the Buenos Aires tetra is a highly regarded fish. First described more than a century ago, this species has become a staple in many aquariums since then.

The Buenos Aires tetra’s appearance is a brilliant combination of red fins and a vibrant line across its body. The brilliant colors of this fish stand out boldly and look amazing in community tanks. Buenos Aires tetras are also quite large for tetras, growing up to 3 inches in length.

Although a great choice for community tanks, these fish require a bit more attention when it comes to water quality than other tetra varieties.

Penguin Tetra

Penguin tetra near a submerged log

Last but not least, the penguin tetra is also sometimes called the blackline penguinfish or the hockey-stick tetra.

Highly sociable fish, penguin tetras easily form schools and feel comfortable with at least two other companions in a tank.

Their appearance is very distinctive, consisting of a dark black line that spans both of their sides with a light-yellow outline. Their bodies are gray and their fins are very thin and almost transparent.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Tetra fish in their natural habitat

Tetras are a very diverse group whose members come from many different environments. Some are native to tropical regions of South America, while others are more used to the damp climates of East Africa, with seasonal heavy rains and wide rivers.

Typically, tetras can be found in medium or large lakes, ponds, rivers, and wetlands.

The conditions in these habitats vary, but most of the time, the bottom would be covered in leaves or wood and there would be a canopy formed overhead by the surrounding trees.

Interestingly, despite their varied locations and habitats, you can keep most types of tetras together in the same tank. Although it may seem that they are incompatible because of their geographic distribution, they can all thrive within the same range of parameters.

Tank Setup

Most tetras feel comfortable in a moderately warm tank with a temperature ranging between 75°F–80.5°F.

Keeping the water range within these limits is important to prevent sickness. Lower temperatures drastically reduce the activity of your fish and slow down their metabolisms.

These fish require a pH of 6–7 and a water hardness of 12–15 dGH.

As these fish are active swimmers, you need to install a good filter in order to create a medium to hard flow. This will help to closely resemble their natural environment that is never static and is always moved around by either the wind or water currents.

The substrate you choose is completely up to you and will depend entirely on your personal preference, as tetras are not too picky. The substrate in their natural environment has always been moved around and resembles more of a mix, rather than homogenous material.

Another important aspect of the aquarium is live plants.

Whereas some fish will tear down any plants in their sight, tetras love and can cohabitate with even the most delicate plant species.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

They should be kept in a tank that is at least 10 gallons. However, this size should increase depending on how many specimens you decide to keep and whether you are planning on making a community aquarium.

How Many Can Be Kept Per Gallon?

You should allow at least two gallons for each tetra.

Caring for Tetras

Tetra fish care

Tetra fish are appealing for fishkeepers because they require very little maintenance.

This is because of their size and natural sturdiness. It’s a true win-win situation for aquarists.

The majority of species are not prone to any particular disease, but they are very susceptible to changes in water conditions, so you will have to keep this in mind and perform bi-weekly water changes.

Regular water changes help keep the water aerated and prevent it from becoming stale, which helps break the life cycles of parasites and harmful bacteria.

You should also check whether your fish has any individual illnesses or chronic conditions, such as mycobacteriosis.

Sometimes when a fish falls ill, people immediately assume that this has to deal with the quality of the water.

However, water quality is not always the problem and sometimes the disease may have been triggered by a slight change in the environment or any small chemical. This is especially dangerous if you are installing new equipment in your tank and invasive microorganisms sneak in.

Because of their size, tetras can be kept in small aquariums, and finding compatible neighbors is not a difficult task.

Diet & Feeding

The majority of tetra types are native to tropical regions of South America. The well-known Amazon River, its tributaries, and countless estuaries have proven to be a very fertile environment for aquatic life.

Here you will find warm, well-oxygenated waters with an abundance of food.

Tetras will eat everything they can get to, including insects that end up on the water surface and smaller freshwater organisms.

Just like in the wild, in the aquarium, these species are not picky with food. They will happily feed on all sorts of foods, including granules and flakes. Tetras will eat both frozen and dry foods, and will also gladly feast on live food.

Because tetras are usually kept in schools, you should get an automatic food dispenser, which will ensure that every fish gets enough food and also help you avoid overfeeding.

Feed tetras twice a day, as much as they can eat in a period of around two minutes.

Angelfish Tank setup and Care

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The Freshwater Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) belongs to the Cichlidae family. This family includes all species of freshwater Cichlids.

It should not be confused with the Marine Angelfish, which belongs to the Pomacanthidae family.

These fish are one of the many unique species that come from Brazil’s Amazon River. They are found in the river basin and its tributaries in Peru, Colombia, and Guiana.

They are one of the most popular freshwater Cichlid choices due to their fancy appearance, ease of care, and lack of aggression compared to other Cichlid species.

In well-kept tanks, these fish can live up to 10 years. They reach maturity at around 10 months of age.

Since they are so popular, you can find them at most aquarium suppliers and pet shops.

On average they will cost around $10 – specialty breeds will cost between $20 and $40, depending on the variety and the quality.

Typical Behavior

Like most Cichlids, they can be quite aggressive. They will form small hierarchies and fight to defend their positions. If you catch your angels’ locking lips, they are actually fighting.

They will form small schools but are not particularly social with the others in their school. They are quite territorial and are more likely to fight than cooperate.

However, they are not as aggressive as other Cichlids. They are not likely to bully others outside of their school.

You can watch them as they weave in and out of your aquarium plants in the middle level of your tank. Although they might hide in an overcrowded tank, they are otherwise very showy fish.

These fish are one of the few species that take care of their young. They will fiercely defend their eggs and rear the newly-hatched larvae and fry for up to two months.

Outside of competition and mating, they will not interact much with each other. You should not expect to see coordinated swimming patterns and cooperative foraging.

Types and Appearance

Gold Angelfish

Angelfish can grow up to 6 inches long, and their spectacular fins can reach heights of up to 8 inches tall.

They are shaped like arrowheads, with wide bodies and triangular snouts. Their most iconic feature is their trailing dorsal and pectoral fins and their wide fan-shaped caudal fin.

Usually, Freshwater Angelfish are silver with 4 large, black bands. Juveniles have 7 bands but as they mature their bands reduce to 4.

Standard color forms include gold, silver, black and marbled. Marbled Angelfish have black spots or jagged, irregular bands rather than the typical straight black bands.

In addition to the standard colors, specialty colors and patterns are bred for ornamental purposes – some are even bred to resemble Goldfish or Koi!

The Koi variety is silver or white, with orange/red spots and a black marbled pattern that resembles a typical Kohaku Koi fish.

Gold and Platinum Angelfish are completely gold or completely silver, with no banded pattern.

There is even a color form that resembles a panda. Panda Angelfish have stark white scales with an all-over spotty black pattern.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Angelfish Habitat

This species is native to the Amazon River and its tributaries – it is found in slow-moving streams, swamps, and floodplains along the Amazon River basin.

These are tropical fish that thrive in warm water with temperatures between 75-82°F. Their water is often acidic, with little to no salinity.

They live in swampy conditions, with a fine sandy substrate and lots of aquatic vegetation and mosses for hiding.

Their water is usually clear and they live at depths where light can easily penetrate the water and reach them.

Tank Setup

This Cichlid tank should be kept between 75 and 82°F. The pH should be anywhere from 6.8 to 7.

Cichlids like to dig, so any substrate you place in the tank should be soft and fine. This will prevent cuts and scrapes to their scales and fins. Fine sand/mud will make the best substrate for them.

Freshwater Angelfish are used to very small amounts of flow, so there is no need to generate a powerful current – you should use low flow aeration or an under-gravel filter.

The tank will need exposure to 8 to 12 hours of light per day. Any aquarium light that can mimic the sun will do just fine.

To create a miniature swamp that mirrors your Angel’s tropical swampland, you can use plants that are native to the Amazon River.

Amazon Sword plants have wide, broad leaves that make a safe and comfortable place for your fish to a hideout.

Brazilian Waterweed, more commonly known as Anacharis, is another good choice for an Angel tank. Outside of native South American plants, you can include Java Fern and Java Moss.

Avoid using floating vegetation like Duckweed and Pondweed. These can overcrowd your tank and block out light.

What Size Tank Do Freshwater Angelfish Need?

You will need a minimum of 20 gallons to keep a pair of Freshwater Angelfish. You will need at least 80 gallons to keep a small school.

You will need at least 10 gallons for every Freshwater Angelfish in the tank.

Tank Mates

Angelfish Tank Mates

The Amazon River basin that this fish calls home is a biodiversity hotspot. In the wild, these fish live alongside thousands of unique fish species.

The slow-moving streams and swamps of the Amazon are dominated by other species of Freshwater Angelfish, and other Cichlids such as Oscars, Discus, and Banded Cichlids.

They live with Characins, small freshwater Catfish, and the more infamous Amazon River species such as the Silver Arowana and the mighty Arapaima.

Though they come from an area well known for their species richness, selecting compatible tank mates for these little guys can be quite difficult.

If keeping them with other Cichlids, choose species like the discus, dwarf cichlid, and Bolivian ram. These species will not be easily bullied by your Angelfish.

They might even be able to handle sharing a tank with Jack Dempseys, though these are known for being very pushy.

Outside of other Cichlids, Mollies and dwarf gouramis make ideal companions for your Angels. Small freshwater Catfish, particularly plecos and pictus are another good choice.

There are not very many good non-fish companions for these cichlids. Crustaceans and other invertebrates risk being harassed or preyed on.

Avoid keeping South American and African cichlids together. These cichlids are from entirely different parts of the world and require different environmental conditions and water parameters.

Do not mix too many Angelfish species together, or they will behave aggressively towards one another in competition for territory and resources.

Do not keep any of the more aggressive Cichlids, such as Oscars and Convicts, with these fish.

Barbs should be avoided due to their reputation as ‘fin-nippers’. These pushy fish will harass your Freshwater Angelfish and bite at their trailing fins.

Keeping Freshwater Angelfish Together

A single species tank is the best way to keep this Cichlid species. They can be kept in schools of about 5 or 6 individuals.

They will form territories and hierarchies within their school and their competition for dominance can be very engaging.

Care

Angelfish have known carriers of parasitic nematodes. Infection by these nematodes can be fatal and can spread to the other fish in your aquarium.

Infection is caused by them eating nematode’s eggs or larvae, which can be found on unclean food and in dirty tanks.

Once the larvae are eaten, there is a three-month infection period as the worm goes through its life cycle. The worm will steal nutrition from its host, making the fish appear weak over time.

Infected fish may display inflammation, cysts, or bleeding. If you notice these symptoms in your fish, it’s important to separate them from the tank as quickly as possible.

The parasite can be treated with a dewormer administered by a veterinarian that specializes in aquarium fish.

Hexamita is another parasite that affects Cichlids. It is caused by the ingestion of a protozoan that infects the fish’s intestines and gallbladder.

The symptoms of a Hexamita infection include:

  • weight loss
  • sluggishness
  • paleness
  • discoloration

It can be treated with medicine administered by a fish veterinarian.

To prevent parasitic infections make sure that you are clean your tank at least once a fortnight, or more in particularly messy or smaller tanks.

Make sure that you are carefully inspecting the food you give to your fish. Never give them wild-caught prey.

Any new fish that you plan to place in your community tank should be quarantined for 2 to 4 weeks to make sure they are healthy.

Koi Angelfish

Diet

Angelfish are omnivores, but small live prey makes up the majority of their diet. In the wild, they feast on insects, larvae, crustaceans, rotifers and even smaller fish.

They require a diet high in protein and fiber and do not eat lots of plant material or algae.

In the aquarium, they should get the majority of their nutrition from live prey (just like in the wild).

Tubifex worms are a vital food source for these fish in the aquarium. They provide the protein content that they would be getting from wild rotifers.

You can also give them live water fleas and brine shrimp. Outside of living prey, they can be given flake or pellet foods that are high in protein.

Freeze-dried glass worms and krill provide a little bit of extra protein and satisfy an Angelfish’s appetite.

These are big feeders that must be fed at least twice a day. Mated pairs that you are planning to breed must be fed, even more, up to 4 times a day.

They do not eat aquarium plants or algae. However, adding a little bit of plant food to their diet will help make sure that they get the fiber they need.

You can supplement their diets with cooked garden vegetables, including romaine, zucchini, and spinach.

The vegetables should be lightly blanched before you give them to your fish.

Breeding

One of the reasons these fish are so popular is that they are very easy to breed!

When introduced to a school, Freshwater Angelfish will pair off naturally. Once paired, they will set aside territory for themselves and their mate.

When you see that your fish are paired off, you can prepare them for breeding.

Create a breeding environment using a 20-gallon tank with a low flow filter and a vertical, slanted surface. Tiles, PVC pipes, and Anacharis all make good spawning surfaces.

Your breeding pair should be fed high protein flakes and live tubifex worms up to 4 times a day. The temperature of the breeding tank should be maintained at 82°F.

If you see your female spending a lot of time near the spawning surface, she is preparing to lay her eggs. She will lay anywhere between 200 and 400 eggs per spawning, and the male will fertilize them externally.

The parents will rear the eggs and fry for about a month before the fry can be separated and placed in a 15-20 gallon rearing tank.

Your fry should be fed brine shrimp larvae with hardboiled eggs mixed with water until they are 5 to 7 weeks old. After this, they can be fed flakes and dried foods.

After 6 to 8 weeks in the rearing tank, your Freshwater Angelfish should be ready to graduate to an adult tank.

Are Freshwater Angelfish Suitable For Your Aquarium?

With their exotic beauty, it’s easy to see why the ‘King of the Aquarium’ is so well-loved.

They will shine in a tropical community tank just as well as they will stand out on their own. With a wide range of colors and varieties to choose from, they will fit into any tank.

If you are thinking of keeping a few of these beauties, it helps if you already have experience keeping tropical freshwater fish.

In comparison to the other more difficult Cichlids, they are quite beginner-friendly.

If you want all of the grace and majesty of an Angelfish, but don’t feel quite ready for a saltwater tank, the Freshwater Angelfish might just be a perfect choice.

How to Catch Aquarium Fish With Net

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One of the more frustrating parts of the aquarium hobby is trying to catch or move your fish. Just try chasing around fast and slippery fish using a flimsy net with a ton of aquarium decorations in the way. After years of running an aquarium fish store, we have caught thousands and thousands of fish, so we know a thing or two about trying to wrangle the exact number, type, or color of fish for our customers. Learn about our favorite technique for netting fish that not only saves time but also saves your fish from getting stressed out.

Before You Get Started…

Not all aquarium nets are created equal, so make sure you start off with the right tool for the job. Check the net for any holes or rips that would allow the animals to slip out. Select a larger net that covers more surface area and makes it easier to capture your target. Also, consider what kind of fish you are trying to catch. Use a net with a fine mesh when handling baby fry and shrimp to prevent escape. However, if you are chasing faster or smarter fish (like African cichlids, loaches, and rainbowfish), get an aquarium net with coarse mesh or tiny holes because it decreases drag through the water and allows you to move more quickly when needed.

Aquarium Co-Op fish nets

Aquarium Co-Op fish nets are designed with coarse mesh for reduced water drag, strong carbon fiber handles that won’t flex, and no metal parts to eliminate rusting.

The Easiest Way to Catch Fish with Aquarium Net

Now that you have the right net for the job, let’s talk about the proper technique. Remember to remain cool, calm, and collected because when you become overly agitated, your movements convey your anxiety and the fish are more likely to become stressed as well.

  1. Try not to stand above or tower over the fish tank because some fish may view you as a predator and become frightened even before you get started. If the tank is low to the ground, get a stool that allows you to sit down at their level.
  2. Hold the net closer to the net rim and not at the very end of the handle. This position gives you more control to make faster movements.
  3. Set a trap so that the net is facing one of the front corners of the tank.
    1. In this example, we are using the left corner, so place the net at an angle such that the right edge of the net is flush against the glass and the bottom edge of the net is tight against the ground.
    2. This arrangement leaves an opening on the left edge of the net so that the fish can easily swim inside.
    3. You can also utilize large pieces of fish tank decorations (instead of the tank walls) to set your trap if that’s easier.
setting the trap with Aquarium Co-Op fish net
the net on the ground and keep the right side of the net tight against the tank wall. The only way fish can enter is from the left side of the net.
  1. Because a fish net tends to be slower than your hand, the key is to use one of your hands to “chase” the fish into the trap while the net stays mostly fixed in place.
    1. Place your hand in the water (with fingers stretched open to look larger) and sweep the fish from the right to left side of the aquarium.
    2. At the end of the sweep, move your hand towards the front left corner of the tank so that the fish enter the net.
    3. If you have a taller aquarium, your hand also has to stay higher in the water to prevent the fish from escaping over the top edge of the net.
chase the fish into the aquarium net
While one hand holds the net handle, use the other hand to go behind the net and sweep the fish from the right to left side of the tank. Once the fish reach the left wall of the aquarium, push your hand towards the front left corner so that they naturally swim away from you and enter the net.
  1. As soon as the fish enter the net, swing the trap shut so that the left edge of the net is also flat against the front glass.
powder blue dwarf gourami in Aquarium Co-Op fish net
Once the desired fish are in the net, close the trap so that the net rim is entirely flush against the front wall of the aquarium.

  1. Keep the desired fish in the net while letting the unwanted fish swim out of the net.
    1. Move the desired fish deeper into the net. Place your hand against the glass to cause the desired fish to swim further into the mesh. Gently shuffle the net from side to side if needed to keep them tucked away.
    2. Lift the net rim slightly away from the glass (in a corner of the net that is furthest away from the desired fish) so that you can release the unwanted fish.
    3. If all of the fish (including the unwanted ones) keep swimming deeper into the net, you can use your hand or finger to push or chase out the unwanted fish.
release platy fish but keep dwarf gourami inside fish net
In this case, we want to keep the powder blue dwarf gourami but release the red platy. Therefore, we slightly opened the right side of the net and used our hand to gently guide the platy out.

  1. Lift the net out of the water, while keeping the net rim flat against the glass for as long as possible.
    1. Don’t rotate the net horizontally before bringing the fish out of the water because it causes them to panic and increases the likelihood that they will jump out.
    2. Instead, pull the net straight up vertically and quickly out of the water. This causes the mesh to drop down and naturally trap the fish in the net.
    3. The more times you lift the net in and out of the water, the more scared the fish may become, which in turn makes them harder to catch.
raise fish net vertically out of aquarium
Slide the fish net vertically out of the water so that it remains flush against the tank wall for as long as possible. This method causes the net mesh to drop downwards, trapping the fish in the net and minimizing their chances of escape.

Top 10 Easy Fish For Beginners

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Certain aquarium fish are classified as “beginner fish” because they are easy to care for, very colorful, and won’t break the bank. However, even experienced fish keepers often turn to them because they are such crowd pleasers and don’t take as much attention as more high-maintenance species. After years of helping customers in our local fish store, these are our top 10 beginner fish we find ourselves recommending over and over again.

1. Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)

black neon tetra

This striking starter fish is known for its solid white and black horizontal stripes with a red “eyebrow” above its pupil. Because of its mostly neutral colors, we find that the black streak matches well with fish of many other colors. They grow to about 1.5 inches (4 cm) in length and get slightly bigger than regular neon tetras (Paracheirodon innesi). As a nice schooling fish, they do best in a group of 6-12 of their own species, but luckily they are relatively inexpensive at $2-3 each. Black neon tetras are very forgiving when it comes to beginner mistakes and can withstand a wide variety of temperatures and water parameters. Their robustness and even-keeled nature can help you gain more confidence in the early stages of your fish keeping hobby.

2. Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii)

kuhli loach in planted tank

This miniature “eel” is a popular oddball fish because of its noodle-like body and alternating yellow and black bands. The 4-inch (10 cm) bottom dweller likes to scavenge for food on the ground and hide behind aquarium decorations, driftwood, and aquarium plants. To encourage them to come out in the open, get a posse of at least 3-6 kuhli loaches and drop their meals near the front of the fish tank. They love to eat frozen bloodworms, freeze-dried tubifex worms, and small sinking pellets.

3. Bristlenose Plecostomus (Ancistrus sp.)

Bristlenose pleco in planted aquarium

Many beginners end up with a plecostomus catfish or “suckerfish” because they look cool and like to hang onto the glass or bottom of the tank. However, some plecos can grow extremely large, so consider choosing a bristlenose pleco that stays relatively small and peaceful. Their common name comes from the fact that males get little bristles on their face, but females usually do not. They are one of our most recommended algae eaters because they do such a great job of cleaning up the aquarium, but make sure you feed them a good quality protein food, Repashy gel food, and vegetables like blanched zucchini slices and canned green beans. For more details on how to care for plecostomus.

4. Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)

Harlequin rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) in planted tank

Everyone always has harlequin rasboras on their list of beginner fish because of their stunning appearance, hardiness, and low cost (usually under $4). Nothing beats a beautiful school of 2-inch-long (5 cm) orange rasboras with a solid black triangle patch on their bodies. You need at least six or more of the same species for them to feel the happiest in their environment. In general, schooling fish need social time with their own kind to put on their best coloration, behave correctly, and give you the most longevity and enjoyment out of your purchase.

5. Albino Cory Catfish (Corydoras aeneus)

albino cory catfish

Corydoras catfish are a fish tank favorite because of their happy-go-lucky personalities and ability to keep the floor clean of crumbs. There are over 100 species in the Corydoras genus, but we like albino corys for beginners because of their toughness, inexpensive price, and shiny pink scales that stand out in a planted aquarium. If you don’t prefer pink, you can also go with the bronze cory, which is the same species in a dark greenish-brown color. This schooling bottom dweller gets up to 2.8 inches (7 cm) and loves gobbling up frozen bloodworms, Repashy gel food, and small sinking pellets. One of their adorable behaviors is their habit of “blinking” or flicking their eyes downward, so see if you can catch them in the act.

6. Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya)

cherry barbs

You may have heard that barbs are aggressive, but luckily cherry barbs aren’t any more aggressive than your average tetra or rasbora. Males have a deep red coloration, whereas the females are more tannish-red. While you may be tempted to get only males for your aquarium, try to buy at least 1-2 females for every male because the boys show off their best coloration when they have girls to impress. If you feed them high quality foods like krill flakes, freeze-dried foods, and frozen foods, they are very easy to breed and constantly lay eggs. The adults do predate on their offspring though, so plant a forest of dense aquarium plants like water sprite and wisteria for the baby fry to hide amongst.

7. Red Eye Tetra (Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae)

red eye tetras or monk tetras

If you accidentally bought a bigger, semi-aggressive fish like a bala shark or rainbow shark, pair them with a larger, more full-bodied schooling fish. Red eye tetras (or monk tetras) grow to approximately 2.75 inches (7 cm) in size and are tolerant of a wide range of water parameters. Their silvery body, red eye, and black tail contrast well with a background of green plants or a community of other colorful fish. Get six or more in a group to swim in the middle of your aquarium, and feed them a varied selection of fish foods, like flakes, freeze-dried bloodworms, and Vibra Bites.

8. White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes)

White Cloud Mountain minnow

There are several types of white cloud minnows (including those sold as feeder fish), but we recommend getting regular white cloud mountain minnows as the most bulletproof variety. They are very cheap, only grow to 1.5 inches (4 cm), and don’t need an aquarium heater because they live in cooler temperatures. In fact, many people keep them outside in outdoor mini ponds or tubs during the summer season (or year-round, depending on your climate). Just make sure the water temperature doesn’t get above 80°F (27°C) or else they can become prone to disease. Get this underrated fish because you’re going to love watching the males spar with each other, flaring out their fins like little peacocks.

9. Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus)

Siamese algae eater in planted aquarium

The Siamese algae eater (or SAE) is another great cleaner fish with a downturned mouth that’s ideal for consuming algae and leftover fish food in the tank. It’s a bigger fish that grows to about 6 inches (15 cm) in length and kind of looks like a little shark. Technically, they are a schooling fish, but because they can be semi-aggressive in nature, we find that they do best when you have only one SAE by itself or three or more to keep each other in check. We prefer the SAE over the Chinese algae eater (CAE) because the latter gets even larger and more hostile. Some people say that SAEs are better at eating algae when they are younger, but we find that is because the adult SAEs are big enough to get the lion’s share during mealtimes. To get older SAEs interested in eating algae again, try cutting back on the food to whet their appetites.

10. Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Endler's livebearer, male

Despite the popularity of livebearers (or fish that bear live young) like guppies and mollies, we don’t always advise them for beginners because they have specific water parameters that need to be met. Plus, their beautiful colors are sometimes the result of heavy inbreeding, which can lead to health issues. However, Endler’s livebearers are a good choice because their natural coloration already looks amazing and therefore not as much linebreeding has been needed to get spectacular patterns. We’ve found them to be quite adaptable to pH of 6.5 and higher and temperatures between 68-82°F (20-28°C). They do prefer some minerals in their water, so if you find your tap water has low GH (general hardness), try adding some Wonder Shell or Seachem Equilibrium. If you’re searching for a budget-friendly fish that looks incredible and makes more babies for free, you can’t go wrong with Endler’s livebearers.

How to Culture Vinegar Eels

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Are you getting into fish breeding but need a way to feed teeny-tiny fry that are too small to eat regular fry food? Try vinegar eels! This live food is very easy to culture and is perfect for raising babies until they’re big enough to eat baby brine shrimp.

What Are Vinegar Eels?

Vinegar eels are harmless, white roundworms or nematodes that feed on the microorganisms commonly found in vinegar and fermented liquids. Growing up to 50 microns in diameter and 1 to 2 mm in length, they are one of the smallest and easiest live foods to culture for baby fish. Breeders commonly feed them to newborn betta fish, killifish, rainbowfish, and other fry that require miniscule foods even smaller than baby brine shrimp (which hatch out at 450 microns in size).

Vinegar eels have many other advantages that make them ideal for feeding fish fry. Unlike banana worms and other micro worms, they can survive for several days in fresh water, they swim around in the water column instead of sinking straight to the bottom, and their wiggling motions entice babies to eat more and grow faster. Vinegar eels aren’t necessarily as nutritious as baby brine shrimp (which are born with rich yolk sacs), but they’re an excellent food to feed until the fry have grown large enough to eat baby brine shrimp.

How Do You Start A Vinegar Eel Culture?

  1. Gather the following materials:
  • 1 container with a long neck (like a wine bottle)
  • 1 backup container (like a 2-liter bottle or 1-gallon jug)
  • Apple cider vinegar (enough to fill half of each container)
  • 1 apple
  • Dechlorinated tap water
  • Filter floss or polyester fiber fill (stuffing for pillows and stuffed animals)
  • Paper towels
  • Rubber bands
  • Pipette
  • Optional: funnel
Containers for vinegar eels
  1. Cut the apple into thin slices that can fit through the container openings, and then put four to eight slices in each container.
Apple slices for vinegar eel culture
  1. Divide the vinegar eel starter culture into each container.
  2. Fill the rest of the containers with 50% vinegar and 50% dechlorinated tap water, such that the total liquid amount reaches the base of the bottle’s neck. (Leave a little space at the top of the containers for air.)
Making vinegar eel culture
  1. Cover the container openings with a sheet of paper towel, fastened with a rubber band. This allows the vinegar eels to breathe while preventing pests from entering. Store the containers at room temperature in a cabinet or on a shelf that does not get direct sunlight.
Use paper towel to cover vinegar eel culture

The wine bottle is your primary culture that can be used for easy harvesting of vinegar eels. The larger container is your backup culture in case anything happens to the wine bottle. Backup cultures can be left alone for a year or two without any additional feedings. The population may decline a little, but you should still have enough vinegar eels to start a new culture if needed.

How Do I Harvest Vinegar Eels To Feed My Fish?

  1. Leave the wine bottle alone for two to four weeks so that the vinegar eel population grows large enough for you to start feeding the fry.
  2. When you’re ready to harvest, stuff a wad of filter floss into the base of the neck so that part of the floss is soaking in the vinegar.
Put filter floss in vinegar eel culture
  1. Gently pour a little dechlorinated tap water into the neck of the bottle.
Pour dechlorinated water into vinegar eel culture
  1. Wait 8 to 24 hours later, and the vinegar eels will travel through the filter floss into the fresh water to get oxygen.
Vinegar eels swimming up wine bottle neck
  1. Use a pipette to remove some of the vinegar eels and feed them to your fish fry.

You can use this method to feed for several days in a row, maybe up to a week, but eventually the culture will start to deplete. Therefore, if you have lots of fish babies, prepare several bottles of vinegar eel cultures so that you can rotate between them, giving each bottle four to five days between feedings so that the culture has time to repopulate.

How Do I Maintain The Vinegar Eel Culture?

Around the six-month mark, the apple pieces eventually break down, the nutrients are used up, and you may notice the culture is much cloudier than usual. That means it’s time to start a new culture. Get a new container, and pour in some of the old culture. Fill the rest of the new container with apple slices and a fresh mixture of 50% apple cider vinegar and 50% dechlorinated water. In two to four weeks, your new culture should be ready for harvesting again.

How to Make Your Betta Fish Happy

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Betta Fish are amazing creatures with beautiful finnage and spirited personalities, but they often lead very sedentary lives in way-too-tiny bowls. If you’ve already seen our betta fish tank setup guide and upsized your betta’s aquarium with the necessary equipment, you may be wondering what else you can do to keep your pet fish entertained. In the wild, Betta splendens spends its time hunting for food, defending its territory, breeding the next generation of offspring, and of course resting. Based on these activities, let’s discuss 5 creative enrichment ideas to mentally and physically stimulate your betta fish and give it the best life possible.

1. TOYS AND DECORATIONS FOR BETTA FISH

Want to provide an underwater jungle gym for your betta to explore? Find some fish tank ornaments and interesting caves that he can swim around or dive inside. Just make sure the decorations have no sharp edges and all the holes are big enough for your betta fish to fit through without getting stuck. Since bettas like to swim near the surface to take the occasional gulp of air, we like the floating betta log. This natural-looking decor is like a large tunnel for your betta to easily swim through, take a peaceful nap, or even build a bubble nest inside. There is also another opening on the side for you to feed fish foods through to prevent his meal from being stolen by other fish or sinking too quickly into the gravel.

floating betta log

A floating betta log is an excellent place for exploring, resting, eating, and making bubble nests.

2. BETTA FISH EXERCISE MIRROR

Betta fish are also known as “Siamese fighting fish” because they will fiercely defend their home turf against others of their own species. While we don’t recommend putting two bettas together, you can take advantage of this protective instinct and give your betta a nice workout by using a floating betta exercise mirror for a few minutes each day. Upon seeing their own reflection, most bettas react by flaring their gills, stretching out their fins, and making their bodies look as big and tough as possible. After a short period of watching him parade back and forth in front of the “intruder,” remove the mirror and perhaps give him a little treat for his efforts.

floating betta exercise mirror

A few minutes with a mirror each day can offer some much-needed exercise for your betta fish.

3. LIVE FISH FOOD

Because betta fish are hunters and not ambush predators, they spend a good amount of time searching for insect larva, small crustaceans, and other tiny aquatic animals to eat. While floating betta pellets are a good staple for daily feedings, there is usually not a lot of challenge in “catching” them since slow water current is recommended for their aquariums. Get your betta to apply her hunting skills by offering a variety of live foods. You can buy blackworms from local fish stores, hatch your own baby brine shrimp, or maintain cultures of daphnia and microworms at home. When bettas must find their next meal, it activates their patrolling, pursuing, and pouncing abilities and rewards them with a full belly. If live fish foods are not possible for you to obtain, try using a worm feeder cone instead. Place a cube of frozen bloodworms or other fish food inside, and watch as your betta fish figures out how to get the tasty morsels out. In a community tank, the cone also helps to slow down the more aggressive fish from gobbling all the food and give everyone a chance to eat.

Watch our You Tube Video : Betta Food

worm feeder cone

If you don’t access to live fish foods, a worm feeder cone can provide an entertaining way for your betta fish to get its food.

4. AQUARIUM PLANTS

Betta splendens are originally found in shallow waters with tons of dense vegetation, so why not give your little buddy a lush, green forest to call home? Of course he’ll be happy with just about any live aquatic plant, but our favorites include large anubias plants to rest on like a leafy hammock or a Christmas moss bridge to shelter beneath at night. Tall background plants and floating plants at the water surface are also much appreciated because they provide interesting structures to swim in between and build bubble nests amongst. If you’re not ready to take care of live plants, you can also try catappa or Indian almond leaves. Not only do they tint the water with tannins that have mild antibiotic and antifungal properties, but they also act as fallen foliage for your betta to investigate.

For more recommendations, read our article on the top 10 betta fish plants for your aquarium.

Buy our Betta care for your Betta Fish : Betta Care

betta fish with aquarium plants

Not only are live aquarium plants beautiful, but they also help to purify the water that your betta lives in.

5. TANK MATES FOR BETTA FISH

If you have a 10-gallon or larger tank with plenty of hiding spots, you may be able to add some peaceful roommates to your betta aquarium. Other animals in the fish tank provide exciting activity to watch, social hierarchies to establish, and rivals to outcompete during mealtimes. Because of the betta fish’s territorial temperament towards its own kind, avoid other fish with colorful and flowy fins. Plus, steer clear of nippy animals that may want to take a chunk out of your betta. Schooling nano fish are often preferred because then your betta has a hard time targeting any one individual. For specific suggestions, learn about the 5 best tank mates for betta fish.

Swordtail Fish Care Guide

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Swordtail fish Livebearers are a popular group of freshwater fish. They are hardy and easy to care for, making them a great choice for beginners.

Some of the most popular are Swordtails.

This American species is an active and peaceful member of community aquariums, best known for their unique attractive tail.

To help you keep Swordtails, below we will explain their ideal setups, perfect tank mates, breeding techniques and much more…

CategoryRating
Care Level:Easy
Temperament:Peaceful
Color Form:Various
Lifespan:Up to 5 years
Size:Up to 6.5″
Diet:Omnivorous
Family:Poeciliidae
Minimum Tank Size:15 Gallons
Tank Set-Up:Freshwater with plants and swimming space
Compatible:Peaceful community

Overview

Swordtail Overview

Swordtails (Xiphophorus helleri) are a freshwater species in the Poeciliidae family.

They are native to North and Central America, ranging from Mexico to Honduras. Here they live in rivers and streams with lots of plants. They are also known to tolerate brackish waters, so can be kept in low salinities.

These fish are livebearers, which mean they retain their eggs inside their body and give birth to live young.

They are closely related to the Southern Platy (a fellow livebearer) and can even crossbreed with them. This crossbreeding has produced many varieties of aquarium fish.

Swordtails are a commonly sold species, so you will likely find them in your local fish store.

Once in your aquarium they can live for up to 5 years – the healthiest tanks have the best chance for individuals to live the longest.

Typical Behavior

This is a peaceful species that works well in a community of other small peaceful fish. They can be kept in a species only tank too.

They live in groups, but they are not shoaling fish. Males might show aggression towards each other, so make sure they are outnumbered by females in a ratio of 4 to 1.

Swordtails can become timid when kept with boisterous fish, hiding away amongst the plants and decorations.

They occupy the middle and upper levels of the tank, rarely exploring down to the bottom. If given enough swimming space, they will be very active members of your aquarium.

Swordtail Fish Appearance

Swordtail Appearance

The first thing you will notice is their caudal fin.

These fish are known for having an elongated lower lobe on their tail – this extension looks like a sword, hence their name.

Only males have this though, so it’s easy to distinguish between the sexes.

Wild populations are an olive green color with a reddish-brown lateral stripe along the length of the body. A male’s sword is yellow with black edges.

However, these days due to extensive captive breeding, you can find them in most colors. Reds, oranges and blacks are a couple of the most common variants. Their colors will intensify when kept stress-free in a healthy environment.

Males reach 5.5 inches, but females could be up to an inch larger.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Swordtail Habitat

This freshwater species naturally live in rivers and streams in North and Central America. Here they would be surrounded by tropical flowing water.

There would be plenty of vegetation planted among rocks and debris. The plants provide shelter from other fish, the flowing water and sunlight. Sometimes these fish are found in brackish habitats, but this is rare and will lower their life expectancy in an aquarium.

Swordtails are hardy creatures, but they need to be kept in an environment that matches their natural tropical freshwater habitat.

Tank Setup

The substrate is not your biggest concern since Swordtails rarely venture to the bottom of the tank. Use sandy substrates if you want to replicate their habitat as closely as possible.

Rocks and bogwood create a natural feel to your tank – they also make some useful caves and crevices too.

Plants are an important addition, as these fish need to hide when they are feeling stressed. Spread them around the tank, but make sure to leave lots of swimming space.

There are so many plants to choose from. Anubias Nana, Java Fern, and Dwarf Hairgrass are some great options.

As for the water conditions:

  • pH needs to be maintained at 7-8.4
  • Hardness should be 12-30 dGH
  • Temperature should be between 70-82°F

Changes in these water conditions could cause health problems, so manage and maintain them.

Though they live in flowing water, you don’t need to use a pump to move the water around your tank – the filter outlet should produce enough current.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

Although these fish are not big, they are active and need plenty of swimming space.

A single swordtail needs at least 15 gallons.

As they prefer being in groups, each additional fish needs roughly 5-6 gallons of water to keep them comfortable.

Tank Mates

Swordtail Tank Mates

Peaceful, active fish such as Swordtails pair well with other similar species. They are social fish that will enjoy the company of other passive tank mates.

This is seen in the wild where they live alongside Platies, their close relatives.

You will easily find other suitable species, the hardest part is choosing between them. You could mix them with Mollies, Rosy Barbs, Neon Tetras, Dwarf Gourami, Pearl Danio, or Angelfish in the mid-levels of the tank.

Dwarf Corydoras, Kuhli Loaches, Otocinclus, and Zebra Loaches are good options for adding some activity to the lower levels.

You should avoid aggressive species that can attack and injure your swordtails. This rules out most Cichlids like Jack Dempseys or Convict Cichlids. They would not come across any predatory fish in the wild.

To mix in some different behaviors, try adding some invertebrates. Ghost Shrimp or Apple Snails are some interesting tank mates that are often overlooked.

Keeping Swordtail Fish Together

Swordtails won’t shoal, but they are social and enjoy being in a group of their own kind.

Males usually display aggression towards each other, so in smaller tanks (15 gallons) only keep one male.

A bigger tank (30+ gallons) can hold more males – make sure to keep a ratio of one male for every four females.

What To Feed Them

Swordtail Diet

Your Swordtails will eat virtually anything, so it’s easy to design a suitable diet.

In the wild their omnivorous diet would include insect larvae, algae and other vegetation.

You can give them high-quality dried foods to supply a range of nutrients.

However, as juveniles they need lots of protein. This means that live or frozen foods like bloodworms, daphnia and brine shrimp are important supplementary items to a dried food diet.

Make sure that they receive some vegetation too (this will provide some fiber to ease their digestion). Algae wafers can be a good way to do this, but you can also add in some green vegetables that you might already have at home.

Feed your swordtails 2-3 times a day. They don’t need much food, just what they will finish within a couple of minutes. Remove any food that is left over so that it does not get broken down and pollute the water.

If you keep a regular routine, they will soon learn when to expect food and become much more active at feeding times.

Swordtail fish is good to keep.

Swordtail Fish Care Guide

Swordtail Care

The good news is this fish is simple to care for. Swordtails are hardy and can survive beginner mistakes.

Firstly you need to keep them in a healthy aquarium. Check the water parameters each week so that any changes can be sorted quickly. A drop in water temperature can lower a fish’s immune system, leaving them susceptible to disease.

A poor diet is another factor that can lead to disease, so make sure you provide a varied diet containing a range of nutrients.

They are generally peaceful, so you don’t need to worry about fighting and injuries.

Since most livebearers are hardy, they are not prone to disease, but they are not completely immune either. If you notice signs of disease, isolate the infected fish in a quarantine tank to prevent it spreading to the rest of your fish.

Ich (or white spot disease) is a common issue caused by an ectoparasite. It results in white spots across the body or fins. To treat it, raise the temperature to 82°F and add 1 teaspoon of salt per every 2 gallons of water.

Another potential disease is mouth fungus, also known as cottonmouth because it causes fluffy growths around the mouth and fins. This can be treated with antibiotics purchased from a pet store.

We think you need this. Syphon Pipe

How To Breed Swordtail Fish

Swordtails are livebearers which means they give birth to live young after the eggs have developed in the female’s body.

There are a few things you can do to encourage them to breed.

  • Gradually increase the water temperature to 80-82°F.
  • Keep the tank as clean as possible.
  • Provide them a healthy diet that provides a range of nutrients, especially proteins.

Once ready the males will swim alongside the females, occasionally nipping them. This can stress the females, so there needs to be more females in the tank than males.

Interestingly, there is evidence to suggest that females prefer males with a larger ‘sword’.

Once the female is pregnant, her belly will swell with a dark gravid spot by the anal fin.

Separate the fry into a breeding tank once they emerge or the parents might eat them.

The fry will be too small to eat adult’s feed, so crush up some flakes or purchase some specialized foods.

Are Swordtail Fish Suitable For Your Aquarium? (Summary)

If your aquarium includes a selection of peaceful freshwater fish, Swordtails will probably be a great addition. They get on well with other species but will quickly become stressed with aggressive tank mates.

By keeping the tank clean and maintaining their preferred conditions, you should not have many problems.

You might end up with more fish than you intended though, because these livebearers breed frequently.

This colorful fish is perfect for beginners and should lead to a successful start for your fishkeeping hobby.

Kissing Gourami Care Guide: A Tropical Fish Like No Other

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Gouramis are some of the most popular fish around.

Each species has its own charm, but Kissing Gouramis are truly unique.

Their distinctive mouths draw people in, who then fall in love with their personalities. They are becoming more popular as an alternative to the well-known Dwarf Gourami.

They have some aggressive tendencies, but these are easily minimized if their environment has been designed well.

There is a lot to learn before you can keep your own Kissing Gourami. So keep reading to learn everything you need to know…

CategoryRating
Care Level:Intermediate
Temperament:Semi-aggressive
Color Form:Pink or Green
Lifespan:5-7 years
Size:Up to 12″
Diet:Omnivore
Family:Helostomatidae
Minimum Tank Size:50 Gallons
Tank Set-Up:Freshwater, heavily planted
Compatible:Community of similarly sized fish

Overview

Kissing Gourami Habitat

The Kissing Gourami (Helostoma temminckii) is the only species in the Helostomatidae family. There are many types of gourami, but most are part of the Osphronemidae family.

Also known as Pink Kissing Gourami, Kissing Fish or Kissers, Kissing Gouramis are a favorite for many fish keepers. They are native to Southeast Asia, originating from Thailand and Indonesia.

They have something called a labyrinth organ, which is used to take in oxygen from the air. It’s a useful skill to have, as it allows them to survive in extreme conditions, when oxygen in the water gets low.

Most pet stores sell Gourami fish. Dwarf Gourami are the most common, you may have to look around a few shops before you come across Kissing Gourami however.

Each fish costs around $5 each and will live for 5-7 years in a healthy aquarium. Don’t be surprised if they live even longer, some have been known to reach 25 years old!

Typical Behavior

This species gets its name because individuals are often seen “kissing” in the water. While this may sound romantic, it is not. The act is actually a form of fighting over territory, usually between males.

Fighting will reduce as they mature and clearly define their own mating territories.

Occasionally this aggression might be directed towards tank mates. They can be kept in communities, but only with similarly sized fish. They sometimes ram the sides of other fish, which removes their slime coat.

If this happens often you should separate the fish.

This talk of aggression might be off-putting, but aggressive outbursts are infrequent. You will usually see them slowly swimming around the middle and upper levels of the tank.

You might see your Kissing Gouramis head to the surface for oxygen if the water conditions are poor.

Kissing Gourami Appearance

The first thing you will notice about Kissing Gourami is their distinctive mouth. It protrudes outwards from the body, and is unique to this species of Gourami. Their jaw has an additional joint, which increases the angle that their mouth can open, making more food accessible to them.

Lips look like they are pouted, as if ready to kiss, which contributes to their name. Each one is lined with small teeth.

Their body has a similar shape to most Gourami. It is flattened laterally and both sexes can reach up to 12 inches when fully mature (though they are often smaller in captivity).

They have short dorsal and anal fins that run along the body, from the back of the head to the tail fin. The pectoral fins are longer and more rounded.

You will most commonly find them in two main colors: pinkish and silver-green. Some are speckled or piebald. Natural specimens are the green variety, they have brown fins and dark lateral stripes along their body.

A mutated variety has been bred for the aquarium industry which is short and round. Though some people prefer this variety, it is weaker and does not live as long.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Kissing Gourami Tank Mates

These fish naturally live in the tropical freshwaters of Southeast Asia. They prefer slow-moving water with dense vegetation – ponds and marshes tend to be the most suitable.

Oxygen levels in these habitats might be lower than in rivers with fast currents. Kissing Gourami can survive this by breathing through their labyrinth organ.

The water would be warm with a fairly neutral pH, though these fish are hardy and can survive many different conditions. They live in climates with lots of sunlight, but the abundance of plants can shade the water beneath them.

Tank Setup

Choose a soft substrate to coat the bottom of the tank, fine-grained sands are ideal. Sometimes your Kissing Gourami will poke around the substrate in search of food, so rough gravels might scratch them.

Next you can pick and place some live plants.

Create some densely planted areas but also leave some open swimming spaces. Do not block off the surface either, these fish will want to head there to breathe occasionally. The plants will need to be fast-growing and strong, or they won’t be able to survive some nibbling from your Kissing Gourami. Java Fern and Hornwort are some durable examples.

This species is used to tropical waters, so heat your water to somewhere in the range of 72-82°F. The pH should be 6-8 and hardness should be 5-20 dGH.

A filter and a heater are the only pieces of equipment you need. Standard aquarium lighting is fine, and they don’t like strong currents so you do not need an air or water pump.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

The minimum tank size for a mating pair of Kissing Gourami is 50 gallons.

After the first 50 gallons for a pair, allow a further 30 to 40 gallons per additional fish.

Tank Mates

Tiger Barb

Kissing Gourami can be a great addition to a community aquarium if their tank mates are chosen correctly.

Their tank mates need to be able to cope with their semi-aggressive nature.

Other species of Gourami do not make suitable tank mates because Kissing Gourami are aggressive towards fish that look like themselves.

The best options are hardy and similar sized fish.

Some good options include: Tiger Barbs, Congo Tetra, Archerfish, Swordtails, Rosy Barbs, Angelfish, Pictus Catfish, Clown Loaches, Yoyo Loaches and Chinese Algae Eaters.

Avoid small species (like certain Tetras) because they are unable to defend themselves and are easily eaten.

If you spot any bullying, you will have to separate the fish.

It is safest to avoid invertebrates as there is a possibility of them being eaten.

Keeping Kissing Gourami Together

Keeping these fish together can be difficult because they direct their aggression towards those fish that look like themselves.

A pair of one male and one female can be kept together with few quarrels. Larger groups can be kept but it is riskier and will require a much larger tank.

Check this out: Cardinal Tetra Complete Care Guide

What To Feed Them

Omnivores like these are the easiest fish to feed. They can eat both plants and meat, so anything you add to the tank will be happily gobbled up.

In the wild, plants would make up a large portion of their diet. The tiny teeth on their lips help them to rasp algae from rocks and break down larger vegetation. They would also eat insects should the opportunity arise. They also have gill rakers which filter the water that passes over the gills, helping them to eat plankton.

You can add green vegetables (lettuce, spinach and zucchini) into the tank to satisfy their need for plant matter.

Live and frozen foods are the best way to replicate the insects and plankton in their natural diet. You could use daphnia, bloodworms, or brine shrimp.

Dried foods (flakes and pellets) can also be used at feeding time. They contain fewer nutrients than live foods, but they are often much more convenient.

If you choose to use dried foods, supplement them with live/frozen foods and vegetables to ensure that your Kissing Gourami get all the nutrients that they need. Foods containing carotenoids help to maintain their color.

Be careful not to overfeed them – once or twice a day, feed them what they can easily finish within two minutes.

Kissing Gourami Care Guide

Kissing Gourami Diet

Caring for these fish is like caring for most other aquarium fish, especially other Gourami.

All species need a clean and healthy environment to thrive. If you clean your tank regularly, you will be less likely to experience problems such as algae blooms or disease.

Try to maintain consistent water conditions as sudden changes can kill your fish or leave them far more prone to illness.

Ideally the room temperature should not be too different from the water temperature. If there is a big difference, your Kissing Gourami could damage their labyrinth organ when breathing from the air. If this is not possible you can use a lid on top of your tank to trap some warm air above the surface of the water.

Choosing the right diet is also a crucial aspect of Kissing Gourami care. If their diet is not varied and does not contain a range of nutrients, their immune system will weaken.

If everything mentioned so far has been implemented, disease will be rare because this is a hardy species. Sometimes disease is unavoidable though – there a couple of common ones to be aware of.

Hole in the head disease (HITH) causes pale, eroding holes on an infected fish’s head. These gradually get larger, providing an entry point for other pathogens. Potential causes are uncertain but moving the fish to a different tank without activated carbon often leads to improvement.

Ich (white spot disease) is an ectoparasite that presents as white spots over the body. Other symptoms include a loss of appetite and cloudy eyes. Separate the infected fish as soon as you spot the disease.

Quarantining new fish and cleaning second-hand equipment are the best ways to prevent pathogens entering your aquarium.

Breeding

When trying to breed a pair of Kissing Gourami, you must first condition them. Do this by feeding them high quality foods that are full of nutrients. This means increasing the proportion of live foods in their diet.

You also need to create the perfect conditions in your tank. It must be clean and also needs to be at the warmer end of their preferred temperature range (80-82°F).

When ready to mate, the pair will start circling each other. This behavior will intensify until they are beating their tails and kissing.

Unusually for species in this family, Kissing Gouramis do not make a bubble nest when spawning.

The male will wrap himself around the female and turn her upside down, at which point she will release eggs to be fertilized by the male. There could potentially be thousands of eggs released.

Remove the parents once the eggs have risen to the surface. The fry should hatch after a day. They will be too small to eat adult foods so give them infusoria, baby brine shrimp or crushed foods until they mature.

Read this Article: Red Arowana Care Guide: A Fishkeeper’s Crown Jewel?

Are Kissing Gourami Suitable For Your Aquarium? (Summary)

Kissing Gouramis are an interesting species that show off some unique behaviors.

We have talked about their aggression and how to deal with it, but most of the time they remain peaceful. If you choose the right tank mates, it should not be a problem at all.

They are hardy fish that even beginners will be able to handle if they have done their research.

Diseases are rare and they can tolerate a range of conditions.

Kissing Gouramis make an excellent addition to a community aquarium and will diversify the activities on display.

Do you keep Kissing Gourami in a community tank? Let us know about your setup in the comments section below…

Top 10 Betta Fish Plants for Your Aquarium

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Looking for a way to take your betta fish tank to the next level? Give live aquarium plants a try. Not only do aquatic plants help purify the water from your fish’s waste, but they also provide a beautiful, natural environment for your betta. In the wild, Betta splendens are commonly found in tropical marshes and rice paddy fields chock-full of thick vegetation. Therefore, aquarium plants serve as excellent enrichment for your betta to explore, obstacles to block line of sight in case he gets territorial, and resting places for him to sleep at night. Rest assured, most of the plants in our top 10 list are beginner-friendly species that only need low lighting and a comprehensive liquid fertilizer like Easy Green.

1. Java Fern

Java fern is one of the most well-liked plants in the aquarium hobby because of its long, thick leaves and low maintenance care. This slow-growing plant comes in several variations, like needle leaf, trident, and Windelov (or lace) java fern. It has a thick, horizontal “stem” called a rhizome that produces leaves on top and roots on bottom. Rhizome plants are special because they don’t need any substrate or gravel to grow; simply attach them to a rock or driftwood using super glue gel and place it wherever you like in the aquarium.

Java ferns also have an interesting way of reproducing. You can either cut the rhizome in half to split the plant into two, or your java fern may start popping out little plantlets directly from their leaves. Wait till a plantet is bigger and has a good amount of roots before detaching it and replanting it elsewhere in the tank. For more information about java fern care,

java fern

Java fern (Microsorum pteropus)

2. Anubias

The Anubias genus is another group of rhizome plants that comes in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and textures. Some of the most popular variants include Anubias barteri, anubias nana petite, and anubias coffeefolia. As with java fern, they can be attached to various hardscape and aquarium ornaments. Rhizome plants can be planted into the substrate as well, but be careful not to bury the rhizome or else the plant may die.

diagram of anubias

Anubias plants do not require substrate and instead are commonly attached to driftwood and rocks.

You can also simply drop the anubias with its plastic pot inside an Easy Planter decoration. The fake rock has a very natural appearance and is easy to move around if you want to change the look of your betta fish tank.

Place your anubias or java fern inside an Easy Planter as an attractive “pot” that can be moved around the aquarium whenever you like.

3. Marimo Moss Ball

If java fern and anubias sound intimidating, then you can’t go wrong with marimo moss balls, the world’s easiest aquarium “plant.” Despite the name, these fuzzy green orbs of velvet are neither a moss nor plant, but rather a type of algae. Their unusual round shape comes from being constantly rolled around the bottom of lakes. To “plant” them, just drop them anywhere in the aquarium that gets low amounts of light. They’re quite inexpensive and unique looking, so many people like to buy an army of marimo moss balls to fill their betta fish aquariums. To learn more, see our marimo moss ball care guide.

marimo moss balls

Marimo moss balls (Aegagropila linnaei)

4. Cryptocoryne

Cryptocoryne plants, or “crypts” for short, are known for their undemanding care and ability to live in low to high light conditions. One of the most common types, Cryptocoryne wendtii, comes in many varieties, such as green, bronze, tropica, and red. Betta fish can often be found resting on top or below their broad, wavy-edged leaves. Cryptocoryne parva, on the other hand, is one of the smallest crypts with deep green, slender leaves and is often used as a slow-growing, foreground plant.

Unlike most of the other plants on this list, cryptocorynes prefer to consume their nutrients from the ground rather than the water column, so they like to be planted in substrate that contains nutrients like root tab fertilizers. Also, if you see your new cryptocoryne plant wilting soon after purchase, don’t throw it away because it is likely experiencing “crypt melt.” Just leave it in the aquarium, and it will soon recover and start growing new leaves that are used to living in your water conditions.

Cryptocoryne wendtii

Cryptocoryne wendtii

5. Water Sprite

This easy-to-grow stem plant is fairly versatile because you can plant it in the substrate or use it as a floating plant. Its fine, lacy leaves provide a dense jungle for your betta fish to investigate and use for building bubble nests. As a fast-growing species, water sprite does a great job of absorbing toxic nitrogen compounds produced by fish waste. If it ends up consuming all the nutrients from the water, use some Easy Green fertilizer to keep it well-fed.

water sprite

Water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

6. Betta Bulb

You may see “betta bulbs” sold at big chain pet stores and wonder what exactly they are. Most of the time, you’re getting some kind of Aponogeton plant, which usually grows long, light green leaves with a rippled or wavy texture. Other easy bulb plants include the banana plant (with its banana-like tubers at the bottom) and dwarf aquarium lily (which produces reddish-bronze, triangular leaves). Both of these plants will send out lily pads that reach the surface, forming a network of stems for your betta to swim in between.

Banana plant

Banana plant (Nymphoides aquatica)

7. Sword Plant

For large aquariums, consider filling your tank with a massive sword plant, like an Amazon sword or red flame sword. This classic aquarium favorite is loved for its easy care requirements and big, broad leaves that provide resting and hiding spots for aquatic animals. As with crypts, this is another group of plants that feeds heavily from its roots and requires either nutrient-rich substrate or a frequent diet of root tabs to stay healthy. When the sword plant becomes large enough, it may start growing long spikes that turn into baby sword plants for you to propagate in other fish tanks.

Amazon sword (Echinodorus bleheri)

8. Vallisneria

If you wanted to create a thick underwater forest but only had money for one plant, vallisneria (or val) is your winning ticket. This tall, grass-like aquatic plant is very hardy and thrives in a wide range of environments. Plus, once it gets well-established in your aquarium, it spreads like wildfire by sending out new runners with baby plants every few days. Pick this plant as an easy way to fill the back of your aquarium and create natural line-of-sight barriers for your territorial betta. Read more in our vallisneria care guide.

Vallisneria spiralis

9. Pogostemon stellatus ‘Octopus’

This unique stem plant is another great background plant that can quickly cover your betta fish tank with tons of greenery. The ‘octopus’ nickname comes from the fact that each node on the stem produces several long and wispy leaves that look like octopus legs waving in the water current. As with most stem plants, it can grow quite tall in a short amount of time. For propagation, simply trim off the top half of the plant and replant it in the substrate. The plant cutting will develop new roots and leaves in no time, becoming a beautiful jungle gym for your betta to play in.

Pogostemon stellatus ‘octopus’

10. Floating Plants

Because betta fish like to hang out near the water surface, floating plants are a wonderful way to enhance the upper layers of their home. Popular types include Amazon frogbit, red root floaters, and even floating stem plants (like the aforementioned water sprite). Because of the fluffy roots and dense foliage, your betta feels safe enough to build his bubble nest or take a little nap surrounded by plant life. Just make sure to leave about 50% (or more) of the water surface clear of leaves so that there is room for adequate gas exchange at the surface (to introduce more oxygen into the water) and for your betta fish to take a gulp of air if needed.

frogbit and bubble nests

Floating plants like Amazon frogbit are great anchor points for your betta fish to build bubble nests to his heart’s content.

நன்னீர் மீன் இறாலுக்கு 7 சிறந்த உணவுகள்

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நீங்கள் சாம்பியன்-தரமான இறால்களை இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்ய முயற்சிக்கவில்லை என்றால், நன்னீர் இறால்களுக்கு உணவளிக்க “சிறந்த” உணவைக் கண்டுபிடிப்பது நீங்கள் நினைப்பது போல் கடினமானது அல்ல. அலங்கார இறால் இப்போது மிகவும் பிரபலமாக உள்ளது என்பதை மீன் நிறுவனங்கள் அறிந்திருக்கின்றன, எனவே இறால் மிகவும் சிறப்புத் தேவைகளைக் கொண்டிருப்பதை அவர்கள் நம்ப வைக்க அவர்கள் நிறைய மார்க்கெட்டிங் டாலர்களைச் செலவிடுகிறார்கள், அவற்றின் இறால் உணவின் பிராண்ட் மட்டுமே பூர்த்தி செய்ய முடியும். உண்மையில், குள்ள இறால் உணவுச் சங்கிலியில் கடைசியாக உள்ளது, அவை அழுகும் தாவரங்கள், இறந்த விலங்குகள், ஆல்காக்கள் மற்றும் நுண்ணுயிரிகள் நிறைந்த பயோஃபில்ம் சாக் ஆகியவற்றை உண்ணும் தோட்டிகளாக செயல்படுகின்றன. அவற்றின் உணவில் புரதங்கள் மற்றும் காய்கறி பொருட்கள் இரண்டுமே உள்ளன, எனவே அத்தியாவசிய ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் மற்றும் தாதுக்கள் குறைவதில்லை என்பதை உறுதிப்படுத்த பல்வேறு வகையான உணவுகளை வழங்குவதே முக்கியம். இது உணவு ஜூன் எங்கள் மேல் 7 பிடித்தவை பட்டியலில் என்று அறியவும் Caridina மற்றும் Neocaridina இறால்.

1. ஹிகாரி இறால் உணவு

ஹிகாரி இறால் உணவு

 

ஹிகாரி என்பது நீண்டகாலமாக மீன்வள பொழுதுபோக்கில் சிறந்த, சுவையான மீன் உணவுகளுக்கு பெயர் பெற்றது, மேலும் அவற்றின் இறால் உணவு வகைகளும் வேறுபட்டவை அல்ல. இந்த சிறிய மூழ்கும் துகள்கள் படிக மற்றும் செர்ரி இறால்களை இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வதற்கு மிகச் சிறந்தவை, ஏனென்றால் அவை குழந்தைகள் மற்றும் பெரியவர்கள் இருவரும் சாப்பிடக் கூடியவை. (நீங்கள் ஒரு பெரிய துகள்களின் அளவை விரும்பினால்,  ஹிக்காரி நண்டு உணவு என்பது இறால், நத்தைகள், நண்டு மற்றும் நண்டுகளுக்கு மிகவும் ஒத்த உணவாகும்.)

இறால் உணவு என்பது ஒரு விரிவான இறால் உணவாகும், இது கடற்பாசி மற்றும் ஸ்பைருலினா ஆல்கா போன்ற காய்கறிப் பொருட்களையும், கிரில் போன்ற இயற்கை வண்ண மேம்பாட்டாளர்களையும் கொண்டுள்ளது. இது ஆரோக்கியமான உருகுதல் மற்றும் வளர்ச்சியை ஊக்குவிக்க கால்சியம் மற்றும் பிற வைட்டமின்களையும் வழங்குகிறது. இறால் உணவுகளில் உள்ள தாமிரம் அவற்றின் முதுகெலும்பில்லாதவர்களுக்கு தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும் என்று தொடக்க இறால் பராமரிப்பாளர்கள் பெரும்பாலும் அஞ்சுகிறார்கள், ஆனால் இறால் உணவு போன்ற பல இறால் உணவுகளில் இறால் ரத்தம் அல்லது ஹீமோசயினின் தயாரிக்க தேவையான தாமிரங்கள் உள்ளன.

2. எக்ஸ்ட்ரீம் இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள்

எக்ஸ்ட்ரீம் இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள்

 

குழந்தைகளுக்கு ஒரு கடி கிடைக்குமா என்பதை உறுதிப்படுத்த பெரும்பாலான இறால் உணவுகள் சிறிய துகள்களாக விரைவாகக் கரைந்தாலும், மீன்வளையில் மிதக்கும் அதிகப்படியான ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் அனைத்தும் நீங்கள் கவனமாக இல்லாவிட்டால் மேகமூட்டம் மற்றும் ஆபத்தான நீர் தர சிக்கல்களுக்கு வழிவகுக்கும். நீங்கள் வயது வந்த இறால்களை ஒரு சமூக தொட்டியில் வைத்திருந்தால், லாபத்திற்காக இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வதில் கவனம் செலுத்தவில்லை என்றால் , இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள் உங்கள் அமைப்பிற்கு சிறந்த தேர்வாக இருக்கலாம். இந்த 3 மிமீ குச்சிகள் நீண்ட காலமாக அவற்றின் வடிவத்தை நீருக்கடியில் வைத்திருக்கும்படி செய்யப்படுகின்றன, உங்கள் இறால்கள் அவற்றின் உணவு அடி மூலக்கூறுக்கு இடையிலான விரிசல்களில் உருகாமல் மேய்ச்சலுக்கு நிறைய நேரம் தருகின்றன. இந்த பிரதான இறால் உணவை ஒவ்வொரு நாளும் உணவளிக்க முடியும், ஏனெனில் அதில் தரமான பொருட்கள், கால்சியம் மற்றும் அதிக அளவு வைட்டமின்கள் உள்ளன.

3. செரா இறால் இயற்கை மூழ்கும் துகள்கள்

செரா இறால் இயற்கை மூழ்கும் துகள்கள்

 

மீன் பொழுதுபோக்கில், நீர்வாழ் விலங்குகளின் அசல் சூழலையும் உணவையும் முடிந்தவரை நெருக்கமாக உருவகப்படுத்த முயற்சிக்கிறோம். அதனால்தான் செரா இறால் இயற்கை உணவுடன் சாயம் அல்லது பாதுகாப்புகள் இல்லாத இயற்கை பொருட்களின் கலவையைப் பயன்படுத்துகிறது. மூழ்கும் துகள்களில் உங்கள் இறால்களின் பிடித்தவைகளான ஸ்பைருலினா, ஸ்டிங் தொட்டால் எரிச்சலூட்டுகிற ஒருவகை செடி, ஆல்டர் கூம்புகள் மற்றும் மூலிகைகள் உள்ளன. உங்கள் இறால் காலனியின் வளர்ச்சி, வண்ணம் மற்றும் இனப்பெருக்கம் ஆகியவற்றை ஆரோக்கியமான பொருட்களால் அதிகரிக்கவும், அவை உங்கள் தண்ணீரை மாசுபடுத்தாது.

4. ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை இறால் ஃபார்முலாவை கடிக்கிறது

ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை இறால் ஃபார்முலாவை கடிக்கிறது

 

இறால் மற்றும் மீன் உணவில் உள்ள புரதங்கள் பொதுவாக மீன் மற்றும் ஓட்டுமீன்கள் ஆகியவற்றிலிருந்து வருகின்றன, ஆனால் பூச்சிகள் இறால் உணவில் இயற்கையாக நிகழும் பகுதியாகும் என்பதை மறந்துவிடாதீர்கள். ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை கடித்த இறால் ஃபார்முலாவில் நீடித்த பதப்படுத்தப்பட்ட கருப்பு சிப்பாய் ஈ லார்வாக்கள் உள்ளன, அவை ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் நிறைந்தவை மற்றும் கால்சியம் மற்றும் வைட்டமின் டி 3 உடன் பலப்படுத்தப்பட்ட வெளிப்புற எலும்புக்கூடுகளை மேம்படுத்துகின்றன. இந்த 0.25-1 மிமீ துகள்களில் ஆரோக்கியமான வளர்ச்சி மற்றும் எளிதான செரிமானத்திற்கான சால்மன், பச்சை பட்டாணி மற்றும் அல்பால்ஃபா போன்ற சுவையான பொருட்களும் அடங்கும்.

5. ஜெல் உணவை மறுபரிசீலனை செய்யுங்கள்

மிருதுவான பசுமை

 

சிறிய வயிற்றைக் கொண்ட சிறிய தோட்டிகளாக, இறால் நாள் முழுவதும் தொடர்ந்து மேய்ச்சலை விரும்புகிறது. அதனால்தான் ரெபாஷி ஜெல் உணவு எங்கள் பட்டியலில் இடம் பெறுகிறது. வெதுவெதுப்பான நீரில் தூள் கலந்து வெறுமனே ஒரு சத்தான ஜெல் உணவை உருவாக்குகிறது, இது 24 மணி நேரம் வரை நீரில் நிலையானதாக இருக்கும், ஆனால் இறால் எளிதில் கடித்தால் போதும். குழந்தை இறால் சாப்பிடுவதற்கு நீங்கள் நேரடியாக தூளை தண்ணீர் நெடுவரிசையில் கூட உணவளிக்கலாம், ஏனெனில் புதிதாகப் பிறந்தவர்கள் நிறைய சுற்றி நீந்துவதில்லை, உணவு நேரத்தில் பெரியவர்களுடன் போட்டியிட முடியாது. ஸ்பைருலினா, பட்டாணி புரதம், அல்பால்ஃபா இலைகள் மற்றும் கடற்பாசி போன்ற ஆல்கா மற்றும் தாவரப் பொருட்களில் மறுபயன்பாட்டு மண்ணின் பசுமை அதிகம். ரெபாஷி கம்யூனிட்டி பிளஸ் என்பது கிரில், அல்பால்ஃபா , ஸ்க்விட் மற்றும் கடற்பாசி ஆகியவற்றைக் கொண்டு தயாரிக்கப்படும் ஒரு நல்ல சர்வவல்லமையுள்ள கலவையாகும். ஜெல் உணவை உருவாக்குவது எவ்வளவு எளிது என்பதை அறிய இந்த கட்டுரையைப் படியுங்கள் .

6. மிருகக்காட்சிசாலையின் நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதிகள்

மிருகக்காட்சிசாலை மெட் நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதிகள்

 

விடுமுறை உணவுத் தொகுதிகள் வழக்கமாக நீங்கள் ஒரு சிறப்பு மீன் உணவாக கருதப்படுகின்றன, நீங்கள் சிறிது நேரம் ஊருக்கு வெளியே சென்று செல்லப்பிராணி உட்காருபவரை வேலைக்கு எடுக்க விரும்பவில்லை என்றால் மட்டுமே நீங்கள் உணவளிக்கிறீர்கள். தண்ணீரை மேகமூட்டாமல் காலப்போக்கில் மெதுவாக உணவை வெளியிடுவதற்காக, அவை உண்மையில் அதிக அளவு கால்சியம் சல்பேட், மெக்னீசியம் சல்பேட் மற்றும் இறால் உருகுவதற்குத் தேவையான பிற தாதுப்பொருட்களைக் கொண்டுள்ளன. உங்கள் குழாய் நீர் மிகவும் மென்மையாகவும், தாதுக்கள் குறைவாகவும் இருந்தால் , அவற்றின் வழக்கமான உணவு சுழற்சியின் ஒரு பகுதியாக நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதியில் கைவிடுவதைக் கவனியுங்கள் . உங்கள் இறால், நத்தைகள் மற்றும் மீன்கள் அனுபவிக்கும் சத்தான பிளாங்க்டன் மற்றும் ஸ்பைருலினா ஆகியவற்றால் தொகுதிகள் நிரம்பியுள்ளன.

7. காய்கறிகள்

பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட பச்சை பீன்ஸ்

 

பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட அல்லது வெட்டப்பட்ட காய்கறிகள் உங்கள் இறால் உணவில் தாவர உள்ளடக்கத்தை அதிகரிக்க உதவும் எளிதில் கிடைக்கும் உணவு. சத்தான உள்ளடக்கம், மென்மையான அமைப்பு மற்றும் உடனடியாக மூழ்கும் திறன் ஆகியவற்றின் காரணமாக பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட பச்சை பீன்ஸ் அவர்களுக்கு பிடித்த ஒன்று. பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட துண்டுகளாக்கப்பட்ட கேரட் உணவளிக்க மற்றொரு பிரபலமான காய்கறி ஆகும், ஏனெனில் பீட்டா கரோட்டின் இயற்கையாகவே இறாலில் சிவப்பு-ஆரஞ்சு நிறத்தை மேம்படுத்துகிறது. சீமை சுரைக்காயின் துண்டுகளை வெட்டவும் முயற்சி செய்யலாம், இதனால் இறால் மேய்ச்சலுக்கு அவை மென்மையாக இருக்கும். தொட்டியை அதிகப்படியாகப் பயன்படுத்தாமல் கவனமாக இருங்கள், ஏனெனில் சாப்பிடாத காய்கறிகள் இறுதியில் வீழ்ச்சியடையும் மற்றும் தொட்டியில் சிதைவடைந்தால் நீர் தர சிக்கல்களை ஏற்படுத்தக்கூடும்.

போனஸ்: கட்டப்பா இலைகள்

கட்டப்பா இலைகள்

 

இந்திய பாதாம் இலைகள் என்றும் அழைக்கப்படும் இந்த உலர்ந்த தாவரவியல் பெரும்பாலும் மீன்வளங்களில் பயன்படுத்தப்படுகிறது, ஏனெனில் அவை பழுப்பு நிற டானின்களை லேசான ஆண்டிபயாடிக் மற்றும் பூஞ்சை காளான் பண்புகளைக் கொண்ட நீரில் விடுகின்றன. இறால் வளர்ப்பவர்கள் அவர்களை நேசிக்கிறார்கள், ஏனெனில் இலைகள் பயோஃபில்மின் மெல்லிய அடுக்கை உடைக்கின்றன. இந்த பயோஃபில்மில் குழந்தை இறால்களுக்கு நாள் முழுவதும் மேய்ச்சலுக்கான சத்தான பாக்டீரியா, ஆல்கா மற்றும் பிற நுண்ணுயிரிகள் உள்ளன. 20 கேலன் தண்ணீருக்கு ஒரு இலையைச் சேர்த்து, பழைய இலை துளைகளை உருவாக்கத் தொடங்கியதும் புதிய இலையைச் சேர்க்க பரிந்துரைக்கிறோம். பழைய இலையை வெளியே எடுக்க வேண்டிய அவசியமில்லை, ஏனெனில் அது உங்கள் இறால் முழுவதுமாக விழுங்கும்.

எங்கள் அனுபவத்தில், பெரும்பாலான இறால்கள் அவ்வளவு சேகரிப்பதில்லை, மேலும் நீங்கள் மீன்வளத்திற்குள் இறக்கும் எந்த உணவையும் ஆவலுடன் சாப்பிடுவார்கள். இறால்களை வைத்திருத்தல், உணவளித்தல் மற்றும் இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வது பற்றிய கூடுதல் தகவலுக்கு, நன்னீர் குள்ள இறால் பற்றிய எங்கள் கண்ணோட்டத்தைப் படியுங்கள்.