Home Blog Page 7

Swordtail Fish Care Guide

0

Swordtail fish Livebearers are a popular group of freshwater fish. They are hardy and easy to care for, making them a great choice for beginners.

Some of the most popular are Swordtails.

This American species is an active and peaceful member of community aquariums, best known for their unique attractive tail.

To help you keep Swordtails, below we will explain their ideal setups, perfect tank mates, breeding techniques and much more…

CategoryRating
Care Level:Easy
Temperament:Peaceful
Color Form:Various
Lifespan:Up to 5 years
Size:Up to 6.5″
Diet:Omnivorous
Family:Poeciliidae
Minimum Tank Size:15 Gallons
Tank Set-Up:Freshwater with plants and swimming space
Compatible:Peaceful community

Overview

Swordtail Overview

Swordtails (Xiphophorus helleri) are a freshwater species in the Poeciliidae family.

They are native to North and Central America, ranging from Mexico to Honduras. Here they live in rivers and streams with lots of plants. They are also known to tolerate brackish waters, so can be kept in low salinities.

These fish are livebearers, which mean they retain their eggs inside their body and give birth to live young.

They are closely related to the Southern Platy (a fellow livebearer) and can even crossbreed with them. This crossbreeding has produced many varieties of aquarium fish.

Swordtails are a commonly sold species, so you will likely find them in your local fish store.

Once in your aquarium they can live for up to 5 years – the healthiest tanks have the best chance for individuals to live the longest.

Typical Behavior

This is a peaceful species that works well in a community of other small peaceful fish. They can be kept in a species only tank too.

They live in groups, but they are not shoaling fish. Males might show aggression towards each other, so make sure they are outnumbered by females in a ratio of 4 to 1.

Swordtails can become timid when kept with boisterous fish, hiding away amongst the plants and decorations.

They occupy the middle and upper levels of the tank, rarely exploring down to the bottom. If given enough swimming space, they will be very active members of your aquarium.

Swordtail Fish Appearance

Swordtail Appearance

The first thing you will notice is their caudal fin.

These fish are known for having an elongated lower lobe on their tail – this extension looks like a sword, hence their name.

Only males have this though, so it’s easy to distinguish between the sexes.

Wild populations are an olive green color with a reddish-brown lateral stripe along the length of the body. A male’s sword is yellow with black edges.

However, these days due to extensive captive breeding, you can find them in most colors. Reds, oranges and blacks are a couple of the most common variants. Their colors will intensify when kept stress-free in a healthy environment.

Males reach 5.5 inches, but females could be up to an inch larger.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Swordtail Habitat

This freshwater species naturally live in rivers and streams in North and Central America. Here they would be surrounded by tropical flowing water.

There would be plenty of vegetation planted among rocks and debris. The plants provide shelter from other fish, the flowing water and sunlight. Sometimes these fish are found in brackish habitats, but this is rare and will lower their life expectancy in an aquarium.

Swordtails are hardy creatures, but they need to be kept in an environment that matches their natural tropical freshwater habitat.

Tank Setup

The substrate is not your biggest concern since Swordtails rarely venture to the bottom of the tank. Use sandy substrates if you want to replicate their habitat as closely as possible.

Rocks and bogwood create a natural feel to your tank – they also make some useful caves and crevices too.

Plants are an important addition, as these fish need to hide when they are feeling stressed. Spread them around the tank, but make sure to leave lots of swimming space.

There are so many plants to choose from. Anubias Nana, Java Fern, and Dwarf Hairgrass are some great options.

As for the water conditions:

  • pH needs to be maintained at 7-8.4
  • Hardness should be 12-30 dGH
  • Temperature should be between 70-82°F

Changes in these water conditions could cause health problems, so manage and maintain them.

Though they live in flowing water, you don’t need to use a pump to move the water around your tank – the filter outlet should produce enough current.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

Although these fish are not big, they are active and need plenty of swimming space.

A single swordtail needs at least 15 gallons.

As they prefer being in groups, each additional fish needs roughly 5-6 gallons of water to keep them comfortable.

Tank Mates

Swordtail Tank Mates

Peaceful, active fish such as Swordtails pair well with other similar species. They are social fish that will enjoy the company of other passive tank mates.

This is seen in the wild where they live alongside Platies, their close relatives.

You will easily find other suitable species, the hardest part is choosing between them. You could mix them with Mollies, Rosy Barbs, Neon Tetras, Dwarf Gourami, Pearl Danio, or Angelfish in the mid-levels of the tank.

Dwarf Corydoras, Kuhli Loaches, Otocinclus, and Zebra Loaches are good options for adding some activity to the lower levels.

You should avoid aggressive species that can attack and injure your swordtails. This rules out most Cichlids like Jack Dempseys or Convict Cichlids. They would not come across any predatory fish in the wild.

To mix in some different behaviors, try adding some invertebrates. Ghost Shrimp or Apple Snails are some interesting tank mates that are often overlooked.

Keeping Swordtail Fish Together

Swordtails won’t shoal, but they are social and enjoy being in a group of their own kind.

Males usually display aggression towards each other, so in smaller tanks (15 gallons) only keep one male.

A bigger tank (30+ gallons) can hold more males – make sure to keep a ratio of one male for every four females.

What To Feed Them

Swordtail Diet

Your Swordtails will eat virtually anything, so it’s easy to design a suitable diet.

In the wild their omnivorous diet would include insect larvae, algae and other vegetation.

You can give them high-quality dried foods to supply a range of nutrients.

However, as juveniles they need lots of protein. This means that live or frozen foods like bloodworms, daphnia and brine shrimp are important supplementary items to a dried food diet.

Make sure that they receive some vegetation too (this will provide some fiber to ease their digestion). Algae wafers can be a good way to do this, but you can also add in some green vegetables that you might already have at home.

Feed your swordtails 2-3 times a day. They don’t need much food, just what they will finish within a couple of minutes. Remove any food that is left over so that it does not get broken down and pollute the water.

If you keep a regular routine, they will soon learn when to expect food and become much more active at feeding times.

Swordtail fish is good to keep.

Swordtail Fish Care Guide

Swordtail Care

The good news is this fish is simple to care for. Swordtails are hardy and can survive beginner mistakes.

Firstly you need to keep them in a healthy aquarium. Check the water parameters each week so that any changes can be sorted quickly. A drop in water temperature can lower a fish’s immune system, leaving them susceptible to disease.

A poor diet is another factor that can lead to disease, so make sure you provide a varied diet containing a range of nutrients.

They are generally peaceful, so you don’t need to worry about fighting and injuries.

Since most livebearers are hardy, they are not prone to disease, but they are not completely immune either. If you notice signs of disease, isolate the infected fish in a quarantine tank to prevent it spreading to the rest of your fish.

Ich (or white spot disease) is a common issue caused by an ectoparasite. It results in white spots across the body or fins. To treat it, raise the temperature to 82°F and add 1 teaspoon of salt per every 2 gallons of water.

Another potential disease is mouth fungus, also known as cottonmouth because it causes fluffy growths around the mouth and fins. This can be treated with antibiotics purchased from a pet store.

We think you need this. Syphon Pipe

How To Breed Swordtail Fish

Swordtails are livebearers which means they give birth to live young after the eggs have developed in the female’s body.

There are a few things you can do to encourage them to breed.

  • Gradually increase the water temperature to 80-82°F.
  • Keep the tank as clean as possible.
  • Provide them a healthy diet that provides a range of nutrients, especially proteins.

Once ready the males will swim alongside the females, occasionally nipping them. This can stress the females, so there needs to be more females in the tank than males.

Interestingly, there is evidence to suggest that females prefer males with a larger ‘sword’.

Once the female is pregnant, her belly will swell with a dark gravid spot by the anal fin.

Separate the fry into a breeding tank once they emerge or the parents might eat them.

The fry will be too small to eat adult’s feed, so crush up some flakes or purchase some specialized foods.

Are Swordtail Fish Suitable For Your Aquarium? (Summary)

If your aquarium includes a selection of peaceful freshwater fish, Swordtails will probably be a great addition. They get on well with other species but will quickly become stressed with aggressive tank mates.

By keeping the tank clean and maintaining their preferred conditions, you should not have many problems.

You might end up with more fish than you intended though, because these livebearers breed frequently.

This colorful fish is perfect for beginners and should lead to a successful start for your fishkeeping hobby.

Kissing Gourami Care Guide: A Tropical Fish Like No Other

0

Gouramis are some of the most popular fish around.

Each species has its own charm, but Kissing Gouramis are truly unique.

Their distinctive mouths draw people in, who then fall in love with their personalities. They are becoming more popular as an alternative to the well-known Dwarf Gourami.

They have some aggressive tendencies, but these are easily minimized if their environment has been designed well.

There is a lot to learn before you can keep your own Kissing Gourami. So keep reading to learn everything you need to know…

CategoryRating
Care Level:Intermediate
Temperament:Semi-aggressive
Color Form:Pink or Green
Lifespan:5-7 years
Size:Up to 12″
Diet:Omnivore
Family:Helostomatidae
Minimum Tank Size:50 Gallons
Tank Set-Up:Freshwater, heavily planted
Compatible:Community of similarly sized fish

Overview

Kissing Gourami Habitat

The Kissing Gourami (Helostoma temminckii) is the only species in the Helostomatidae family. There are many types of gourami, but most are part of the Osphronemidae family.

Also known as Pink Kissing Gourami, Kissing Fish or Kissers, Kissing Gouramis are a favorite for many fish keepers. They are native to Southeast Asia, originating from Thailand and Indonesia.

They have something called a labyrinth organ, which is used to take in oxygen from the air. It’s a useful skill to have, as it allows them to survive in extreme conditions, when oxygen in the water gets low.

Most pet stores sell Gourami fish. Dwarf Gourami are the most common, you may have to look around a few shops before you come across Kissing Gourami however.

Each fish costs around $5 each and will live for 5-7 years in a healthy aquarium. Don’t be surprised if they live even longer, some have been known to reach 25 years old!

Typical Behavior

This species gets its name because individuals are often seen “kissing” in the water. While this may sound romantic, it is not. The act is actually a form of fighting over territory, usually between males.

Fighting will reduce as they mature and clearly define their own mating territories.

Occasionally this aggression might be directed towards tank mates. They can be kept in communities, but only with similarly sized fish. They sometimes ram the sides of other fish, which removes their slime coat.

If this happens often you should separate the fish.

This talk of aggression might be off-putting, but aggressive outbursts are infrequent. You will usually see them slowly swimming around the middle and upper levels of the tank.

You might see your Kissing Gouramis head to the surface for oxygen if the water conditions are poor.

Kissing Gourami Appearance

The first thing you will notice about Kissing Gourami is their distinctive mouth. It protrudes outwards from the body, and is unique to this species of Gourami. Their jaw has an additional joint, which increases the angle that their mouth can open, making more food accessible to them.

Lips look like they are pouted, as if ready to kiss, which contributes to their name. Each one is lined with small teeth.

Their body has a similar shape to most Gourami. It is flattened laterally and both sexes can reach up to 12 inches when fully mature (though they are often smaller in captivity).

They have short dorsal and anal fins that run along the body, from the back of the head to the tail fin. The pectoral fins are longer and more rounded.

You will most commonly find them in two main colors: pinkish and silver-green. Some are speckled or piebald. Natural specimens are the green variety, they have brown fins and dark lateral stripes along their body.

A mutated variety has been bred for the aquarium industry which is short and round. Though some people prefer this variety, it is weaker and does not live as long.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Kissing Gourami Tank Mates

These fish naturally live in the tropical freshwaters of Southeast Asia. They prefer slow-moving water with dense vegetation – ponds and marshes tend to be the most suitable.

Oxygen levels in these habitats might be lower than in rivers with fast currents. Kissing Gourami can survive this by breathing through their labyrinth organ.

The water would be warm with a fairly neutral pH, though these fish are hardy and can survive many different conditions. They live in climates with lots of sunlight, but the abundance of plants can shade the water beneath them.

Tank Setup

Choose a soft substrate to coat the bottom of the tank, fine-grained sands are ideal. Sometimes your Kissing Gourami will poke around the substrate in search of food, so rough gravels might scratch them.

Next you can pick and place some live plants.

Create some densely planted areas but also leave some open swimming spaces. Do not block off the surface either, these fish will want to head there to breathe occasionally. The plants will need to be fast-growing and strong, or they won’t be able to survive some nibbling from your Kissing Gourami. Java Fern and Hornwort are some durable examples.

This species is used to tropical waters, so heat your water to somewhere in the range of 72-82°F. The pH should be 6-8 and hardness should be 5-20 dGH.

A filter and a heater are the only pieces of equipment you need. Standard aquarium lighting is fine, and they don’t like strong currents so you do not need an air or water pump.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

The minimum tank size for a mating pair of Kissing Gourami is 50 gallons.

After the first 50 gallons for a pair, allow a further 30 to 40 gallons per additional fish.

Tank Mates

Tiger Barb

Kissing Gourami can be a great addition to a community aquarium if their tank mates are chosen correctly.

Their tank mates need to be able to cope with their semi-aggressive nature.

Other species of Gourami do not make suitable tank mates because Kissing Gourami are aggressive towards fish that look like themselves.

The best options are hardy and similar sized fish.

Some good options include: Tiger Barbs, Congo Tetra, Archerfish, Swordtails, Rosy Barbs, Angelfish, Pictus Catfish, Clown Loaches, Yoyo Loaches and Chinese Algae Eaters.

Avoid small species (like certain Tetras) because they are unable to defend themselves and are easily eaten.

If you spot any bullying, you will have to separate the fish.

It is safest to avoid invertebrates as there is a possibility of them being eaten.

Keeping Kissing Gourami Together

Keeping these fish together can be difficult because they direct their aggression towards those fish that look like themselves.

A pair of one male and one female can be kept together with few quarrels. Larger groups can be kept but it is riskier and will require a much larger tank.

Check this out: Cardinal Tetra Complete Care Guide

What To Feed Them

Omnivores like these are the easiest fish to feed. They can eat both plants and meat, so anything you add to the tank will be happily gobbled up.

In the wild, plants would make up a large portion of their diet. The tiny teeth on their lips help them to rasp algae from rocks and break down larger vegetation. They would also eat insects should the opportunity arise. They also have gill rakers which filter the water that passes over the gills, helping them to eat plankton.

You can add green vegetables (lettuce, spinach and zucchini) into the tank to satisfy their need for plant matter.

Live and frozen foods are the best way to replicate the insects and plankton in their natural diet. You could use daphnia, bloodworms, or brine shrimp.

Dried foods (flakes and pellets) can also be used at feeding time. They contain fewer nutrients than live foods, but they are often much more convenient.

If you choose to use dried foods, supplement them with live/frozen foods and vegetables to ensure that your Kissing Gourami get all the nutrients that they need. Foods containing carotenoids help to maintain their color.

Be careful not to overfeed them – once or twice a day, feed them what they can easily finish within two minutes.

Kissing Gourami Care Guide

Kissing Gourami Diet

Caring for these fish is like caring for most other aquarium fish, especially other Gourami.

All species need a clean and healthy environment to thrive. If you clean your tank regularly, you will be less likely to experience problems such as algae blooms or disease.

Try to maintain consistent water conditions as sudden changes can kill your fish or leave them far more prone to illness.

Ideally the room temperature should not be too different from the water temperature. If there is a big difference, your Kissing Gourami could damage their labyrinth organ when breathing from the air. If this is not possible you can use a lid on top of your tank to trap some warm air above the surface of the water.

Choosing the right diet is also a crucial aspect of Kissing Gourami care. If their diet is not varied and does not contain a range of nutrients, their immune system will weaken.

If everything mentioned so far has been implemented, disease will be rare because this is a hardy species. Sometimes disease is unavoidable though – there a couple of common ones to be aware of.

Hole in the head disease (HITH) causes pale, eroding holes on an infected fish’s head. These gradually get larger, providing an entry point for other pathogens. Potential causes are uncertain but moving the fish to a different tank without activated carbon often leads to improvement.

Ich (white spot disease) is an ectoparasite that presents as white spots over the body. Other symptoms include a loss of appetite and cloudy eyes. Separate the infected fish as soon as you spot the disease.

Quarantining new fish and cleaning second-hand equipment are the best ways to prevent pathogens entering your aquarium.

Breeding

When trying to breed a pair of Kissing Gourami, you must first condition them. Do this by feeding them high quality foods that are full of nutrients. This means increasing the proportion of live foods in their diet.

You also need to create the perfect conditions in your tank. It must be clean and also needs to be at the warmer end of their preferred temperature range (80-82°F).

When ready to mate, the pair will start circling each other. This behavior will intensify until they are beating their tails and kissing.

Unusually for species in this family, Kissing Gouramis do not make a bubble nest when spawning.

The male will wrap himself around the female and turn her upside down, at which point she will release eggs to be fertilized by the male. There could potentially be thousands of eggs released.

Remove the parents once the eggs have risen to the surface. The fry should hatch after a day. They will be too small to eat adult foods so give them infusoria, baby brine shrimp or crushed foods until they mature.

Read this Article: Red Arowana Care Guide: A Fishkeeper’s Crown Jewel?

Are Kissing Gourami Suitable For Your Aquarium? (Summary)

Kissing Gouramis are an interesting species that show off some unique behaviors.

We have talked about their aggression and how to deal with it, but most of the time they remain peaceful. If you choose the right tank mates, it should not be a problem at all.

They are hardy fish that even beginners will be able to handle if they have done their research.

Diseases are rare and they can tolerate a range of conditions.

Kissing Gouramis make an excellent addition to a community aquarium and will diversify the activities on display.

Do you keep Kissing Gourami in a community tank? Let us know about your setup in the comments section below…

Top 10 Betta Fish Plants for Your Aquarium

0

Looking for a way to take your betta fish tank to the next level? Give live aquarium plants a try. Not only do aquatic plants help purify the water from your fish’s waste, but they also provide a beautiful, natural environment for your betta. In the wild, Betta splendens are commonly found in tropical marshes and rice paddy fields chock-full of thick vegetation. Therefore, aquarium plants serve as excellent enrichment for your betta to explore, obstacles to block line of sight in case he gets territorial, and resting places for him to sleep at night. Rest assured, most of the plants in our top 10 list are beginner-friendly species that only need low lighting and a comprehensive liquid fertilizer like Easy Green.

1. Java Fern

Java fern is one of the most well-liked plants in the aquarium hobby because of its long, thick leaves and low maintenance care. This slow-growing plant comes in several variations, like needle leaf, trident, and Windelov (or lace) java fern. It has a thick, horizontal “stem” called a rhizome that produces leaves on top and roots on bottom. Rhizome plants are special because they don’t need any substrate or gravel to grow; simply attach them to a rock or driftwood using super glue gel and place it wherever you like in the aquarium.

Java ferns also have an interesting way of reproducing. You can either cut the rhizome in half to split the plant into two, or your java fern may start popping out little plantlets directly from their leaves. Wait till a plantet is bigger and has a good amount of roots before detaching it and replanting it elsewhere in the tank. For more information about java fern care,

java fern

Java fern (Microsorum pteropus)

2. Anubias

The Anubias genus is another group of rhizome plants that comes in all sorts of shapes, sizes, and textures. Some of the most popular variants include Anubias barteri, anubias nana petite, and anubias coffeefolia. As with java fern, they can be attached to various hardscape and aquarium ornaments. Rhizome plants can be planted into the substrate as well, but be careful not to bury the rhizome or else the plant may die.

diagram of anubias

Anubias plants do not require substrate and instead are commonly attached to driftwood and rocks.

You can also simply drop the anubias with its plastic pot inside an Easy Planter decoration. The fake rock has a very natural appearance and is easy to move around if you want to change the look of your betta fish tank.

Place your anubias or java fern inside an Easy Planter as an attractive “pot” that can be moved around the aquarium whenever you like.

3. Marimo Moss Ball

If java fern and anubias sound intimidating, then you can’t go wrong with marimo moss balls, the world’s easiest aquarium “plant.” Despite the name, these fuzzy green orbs of velvet are neither a moss nor plant, but rather a type of algae. Their unusual round shape comes from being constantly rolled around the bottom of lakes. To “plant” them, just drop them anywhere in the aquarium that gets low amounts of light. They’re quite inexpensive and unique looking, so many people like to buy an army of marimo moss balls to fill their betta fish aquariums. To learn more, see our marimo moss ball care guide.

marimo moss balls

Marimo moss balls (Aegagropila linnaei)

4. Cryptocoryne

Cryptocoryne plants, or “crypts” for short, are known for their undemanding care and ability to live in low to high light conditions. One of the most common types, Cryptocoryne wendtii, comes in many varieties, such as green, bronze, tropica, and red. Betta fish can often be found resting on top or below their broad, wavy-edged leaves. Cryptocoryne parva, on the other hand, is one of the smallest crypts with deep green, slender leaves and is often used as a slow-growing, foreground plant.

Unlike most of the other plants on this list, cryptocorynes prefer to consume their nutrients from the ground rather than the water column, so they like to be planted in substrate that contains nutrients like root tab fertilizers. Also, if you see your new cryptocoryne plant wilting soon after purchase, don’t throw it away because it is likely experiencing “crypt melt.” Just leave it in the aquarium, and it will soon recover and start growing new leaves that are used to living in your water conditions.

Cryptocoryne wendtii

Cryptocoryne wendtii

5. Water Sprite

This easy-to-grow stem plant is fairly versatile because you can plant it in the substrate or use it as a floating plant. Its fine, lacy leaves provide a dense jungle for your betta fish to investigate and use for building bubble nests. As a fast-growing species, water sprite does a great job of absorbing toxic nitrogen compounds produced by fish waste. If it ends up consuming all the nutrients from the water, use some Easy Green fertilizer to keep it well-fed.

water sprite

Water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

6. Betta Bulb

You may see “betta bulbs” sold at big chain pet stores and wonder what exactly they are. Most of the time, you’re getting some kind of Aponogeton plant, which usually grows long, light green leaves with a rippled or wavy texture. Other easy bulb plants include the banana plant (with its banana-like tubers at the bottom) and dwarf aquarium lily (which produces reddish-bronze, triangular leaves). Both of these plants will send out lily pads that reach the surface, forming a network of stems for your betta to swim in between.

Banana plant

Banana plant (Nymphoides aquatica)

7. Sword Plant

For large aquariums, consider filling your tank with a massive sword plant, like an Amazon sword or red flame sword. This classic aquarium favorite is loved for its easy care requirements and big, broad leaves that provide resting and hiding spots for aquatic animals. As with crypts, this is another group of plants that feeds heavily from its roots and requires either nutrient-rich substrate or a frequent diet of root tabs to stay healthy. When the sword plant becomes large enough, it may start growing long spikes that turn into baby sword plants for you to propagate in other fish tanks.

Amazon sword (Echinodorus bleheri)

8. Vallisneria

If you wanted to create a thick underwater forest but only had money for one plant, vallisneria (or val) is your winning ticket. This tall, grass-like aquatic plant is very hardy and thrives in a wide range of environments. Plus, once it gets well-established in your aquarium, it spreads like wildfire by sending out new runners with baby plants every few days. Pick this plant as an easy way to fill the back of your aquarium and create natural line-of-sight barriers for your territorial betta. Read more in our vallisneria care guide.

Vallisneria spiralis

9. Pogostemon stellatus ‘Octopus’

This unique stem plant is another great background plant that can quickly cover your betta fish tank with tons of greenery. The ‘octopus’ nickname comes from the fact that each node on the stem produces several long and wispy leaves that look like octopus legs waving in the water current. As with most stem plants, it can grow quite tall in a short amount of time. For propagation, simply trim off the top half of the plant and replant it in the substrate. The plant cutting will develop new roots and leaves in no time, becoming a beautiful jungle gym for your betta to play in.

Pogostemon stellatus ‘octopus’

10. Floating Plants

Because betta fish like to hang out near the water surface, floating plants are a wonderful way to enhance the upper layers of their home. Popular types include Amazon frogbit, red root floaters, and even floating stem plants (like the aforementioned water sprite). Because of the fluffy roots and dense foliage, your betta feels safe enough to build his bubble nest or take a little nap surrounded by plant life. Just make sure to leave about 50% (or more) of the water surface clear of leaves so that there is room for adequate gas exchange at the surface (to introduce more oxygen into the water) and for your betta fish to take a gulp of air if needed.

frogbit and bubble nests

Floating plants like Amazon frogbit are great anchor points for your betta fish to build bubble nests to his heart’s content.

நன்னீர் மீன் இறாலுக்கு 7 சிறந்த உணவுகள்

0

நீங்கள் சாம்பியன்-தரமான இறால்களை இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்ய முயற்சிக்கவில்லை என்றால், நன்னீர் இறால்களுக்கு உணவளிக்க “சிறந்த” உணவைக் கண்டுபிடிப்பது நீங்கள் நினைப்பது போல் கடினமானது அல்ல. அலங்கார இறால் இப்போது மிகவும் பிரபலமாக உள்ளது என்பதை மீன் நிறுவனங்கள் அறிந்திருக்கின்றன, எனவே இறால் மிகவும் சிறப்புத் தேவைகளைக் கொண்டிருப்பதை அவர்கள் நம்ப வைக்க அவர்கள் நிறைய மார்க்கெட்டிங் டாலர்களைச் செலவிடுகிறார்கள், அவற்றின் இறால் உணவின் பிராண்ட் மட்டுமே பூர்த்தி செய்ய முடியும். உண்மையில், குள்ள இறால் உணவுச் சங்கிலியில் கடைசியாக உள்ளது, அவை அழுகும் தாவரங்கள், இறந்த விலங்குகள், ஆல்காக்கள் மற்றும் நுண்ணுயிரிகள் நிறைந்த பயோஃபில்ம் சாக் ஆகியவற்றை உண்ணும் தோட்டிகளாக செயல்படுகின்றன. அவற்றின் உணவில் புரதங்கள் மற்றும் காய்கறி பொருட்கள் இரண்டுமே உள்ளன, எனவே அத்தியாவசிய ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் மற்றும் தாதுக்கள் குறைவதில்லை என்பதை உறுதிப்படுத்த பல்வேறு வகையான உணவுகளை வழங்குவதே முக்கியம். இது உணவு ஜூன் எங்கள் மேல் 7 பிடித்தவை பட்டியலில் என்று அறியவும் Caridina மற்றும் Neocaridina இறால்.

1. ஹிகாரி இறால் உணவு

ஹிகாரி இறால் உணவு

 

ஹிகாரி என்பது நீண்டகாலமாக மீன்வள பொழுதுபோக்கில் சிறந்த, சுவையான மீன் உணவுகளுக்கு பெயர் பெற்றது, மேலும் அவற்றின் இறால் உணவு வகைகளும் வேறுபட்டவை அல்ல. இந்த சிறிய மூழ்கும் துகள்கள் படிக மற்றும் செர்ரி இறால்களை இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வதற்கு மிகச் சிறந்தவை, ஏனென்றால் அவை குழந்தைகள் மற்றும் பெரியவர்கள் இருவரும் சாப்பிடக் கூடியவை. (நீங்கள் ஒரு பெரிய துகள்களின் அளவை விரும்பினால்,  ஹிக்காரி நண்டு உணவு என்பது இறால், நத்தைகள், நண்டு மற்றும் நண்டுகளுக்கு மிகவும் ஒத்த உணவாகும்.)

இறால் உணவு என்பது ஒரு விரிவான இறால் உணவாகும், இது கடற்பாசி மற்றும் ஸ்பைருலினா ஆல்கா போன்ற காய்கறிப் பொருட்களையும், கிரில் போன்ற இயற்கை வண்ண மேம்பாட்டாளர்களையும் கொண்டுள்ளது. இது ஆரோக்கியமான உருகுதல் மற்றும் வளர்ச்சியை ஊக்குவிக்க கால்சியம் மற்றும் பிற வைட்டமின்களையும் வழங்குகிறது. இறால் உணவுகளில் உள்ள தாமிரம் அவற்றின் முதுகெலும்பில்லாதவர்களுக்கு தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும் என்று தொடக்க இறால் பராமரிப்பாளர்கள் பெரும்பாலும் அஞ்சுகிறார்கள், ஆனால் இறால் உணவு போன்ற பல இறால் உணவுகளில் இறால் ரத்தம் அல்லது ஹீமோசயினின் தயாரிக்க தேவையான தாமிரங்கள் உள்ளன.

2. எக்ஸ்ட்ரீம் இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள்

எக்ஸ்ட்ரீம் இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள்

 

குழந்தைகளுக்கு ஒரு கடி கிடைக்குமா என்பதை உறுதிப்படுத்த பெரும்பாலான இறால் உணவுகள் சிறிய துகள்களாக விரைவாகக் கரைந்தாலும், மீன்வளையில் மிதக்கும் அதிகப்படியான ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் அனைத்தும் நீங்கள் கவனமாக இல்லாவிட்டால் மேகமூட்டம் மற்றும் ஆபத்தான நீர் தர சிக்கல்களுக்கு வழிவகுக்கும். நீங்கள் வயது வந்த இறால்களை ஒரு சமூக தொட்டியில் வைத்திருந்தால், லாபத்திற்காக இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வதில் கவனம் செலுத்தவில்லை என்றால் , இறால் மூழ்கும் குச்சிகள் உங்கள் அமைப்பிற்கு சிறந்த தேர்வாக இருக்கலாம். இந்த 3 மிமீ குச்சிகள் நீண்ட காலமாக அவற்றின் வடிவத்தை நீருக்கடியில் வைத்திருக்கும்படி செய்யப்படுகின்றன, உங்கள் இறால்கள் அவற்றின் உணவு அடி மூலக்கூறுக்கு இடையிலான விரிசல்களில் உருகாமல் மேய்ச்சலுக்கு நிறைய நேரம் தருகின்றன. இந்த பிரதான இறால் உணவை ஒவ்வொரு நாளும் உணவளிக்க முடியும், ஏனெனில் அதில் தரமான பொருட்கள், கால்சியம் மற்றும் அதிக அளவு வைட்டமின்கள் உள்ளன.

3. செரா இறால் இயற்கை மூழ்கும் துகள்கள்

செரா இறால் இயற்கை மூழ்கும் துகள்கள்

 

மீன் பொழுதுபோக்கில், நீர்வாழ் விலங்குகளின் அசல் சூழலையும் உணவையும் முடிந்தவரை நெருக்கமாக உருவகப்படுத்த முயற்சிக்கிறோம். அதனால்தான் செரா இறால் இயற்கை உணவுடன் சாயம் அல்லது பாதுகாப்புகள் இல்லாத இயற்கை பொருட்களின் கலவையைப் பயன்படுத்துகிறது. மூழ்கும் துகள்களில் உங்கள் இறால்களின் பிடித்தவைகளான ஸ்பைருலினா, ஸ்டிங் தொட்டால் எரிச்சலூட்டுகிற ஒருவகை செடி, ஆல்டர் கூம்புகள் மற்றும் மூலிகைகள் உள்ளன. உங்கள் இறால் காலனியின் வளர்ச்சி, வண்ணம் மற்றும் இனப்பெருக்கம் ஆகியவற்றை ஆரோக்கியமான பொருட்களால் அதிகரிக்கவும், அவை உங்கள் தண்ணீரை மாசுபடுத்தாது.

4. ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை இறால் ஃபார்முலாவை கடிக்கிறது

ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை இறால் ஃபார்முலாவை கடிக்கிறது

 

இறால் மற்றும் மீன் உணவில் உள்ள புரதங்கள் பொதுவாக மீன் மற்றும் ஓட்டுமீன்கள் ஆகியவற்றிலிருந்து வருகின்றன, ஆனால் பூச்சிகள் இறால் உணவில் இயற்கையாக நிகழும் பகுதியாகும் என்பதை மறந்துவிடாதீர்கள். ஃப்ளூவல் பிழை கடித்த இறால் ஃபார்முலாவில் நீடித்த பதப்படுத்தப்பட்ட கருப்பு சிப்பாய் ஈ லார்வாக்கள் உள்ளன, அவை ஊட்டச்சத்துக்கள் நிறைந்தவை மற்றும் கால்சியம் மற்றும் வைட்டமின் டி 3 உடன் பலப்படுத்தப்பட்ட வெளிப்புற எலும்புக்கூடுகளை மேம்படுத்துகின்றன. இந்த 0.25-1 மிமீ துகள்களில் ஆரோக்கியமான வளர்ச்சி மற்றும் எளிதான செரிமானத்திற்கான சால்மன், பச்சை பட்டாணி மற்றும் அல்பால்ஃபா போன்ற சுவையான பொருட்களும் அடங்கும்.

5. ஜெல் உணவை மறுபரிசீலனை செய்யுங்கள்

மிருதுவான பசுமை

 

சிறிய வயிற்றைக் கொண்ட சிறிய தோட்டிகளாக, இறால் நாள் முழுவதும் தொடர்ந்து மேய்ச்சலை விரும்புகிறது. அதனால்தான் ரெபாஷி ஜெல் உணவு எங்கள் பட்டியலில் இடம் பெறுகிறது. வெதுவெதுப்பான நீரில் தூள் கலந்து வெறுமனே ஒரு சத்தான ஜெல் உணவை உருவாக்குகிறது, இது 24 மணி நேரம் வரை நீரில் நிலையானதாக இருக்கும், ஆனால் இறால் எளிதில் கடித்தால் போதும். குழந்தை இறால் சாப்பிடுவதற்கு நீங்கள் நேரடியாக தூளை தண்ணீர் நெடுவரிசையில் கூட உணவளிக்கலாம், ஏனெனில் புதிதாகப் பிறந்தவர்கள் நிறைய சுற்றி நீந்துவதில்லை, உணவு நேரத்தில் பெரியவர்களுடன் போட்டியிட முடியாது. ஸ்பைருலினா, பட்டாணி புரதம், அல்பால்ஃபா இலைகள் மற்றும் கடற்பாசி போன்ற ஆல்கா மற்றும் தாவரப் பொருட்களில் மறுபயன்பாட்டு மண்ணின் பசுமை அதிகம். ரெபாஷி கம்யூனிட்டி பிளஸ் என்பது கிரில், அல்பால்ஃபா , ஸ்க்விட் மற்றும் கடற்பாசி ஆகியவற்றைக் கொண்டு தயாரிக்கப்படும் ஒரு நல்ல சர்வவல்லமையுள்ள கலவையாகும். ஜெல் உணவை உருவாக்குவது எவ்வளவு எளிது என்பதை அறிய இந்த கட்டுரையைப் படியுங்கள் .

6. மிருகக்காட்சிசாலையின் நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதிகள்

மிருகக்காட்சிசாலை மெட் நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதிகள்

 

விடுமுறை உணவுத் தொகுதிகள் வழக்கமாக நீங்கள் ஒரு சிறப்பு மீன் உணவாக கருதப்படுகின்றன, நீங்கள் சிறிது நேரம் ஊருக்கு வெளியே சென்று செல்லப்பிராணி உட்காருபவரை வேலைக்கு எடுக்க விரும்பவில்லை என்றால் மட்டுமே நீங்கள் உணவளிக்கிறீர்கள். தண்ணீரை மேகமூட்டாமல் காலப்போக்கில் மெதுவாக உணவை வெளியிடுவதற்காக, அவை உண்மையில் அதிக அளவு கால்சியம் சல்பேட், மெக்னீசியம் சல்பேட் மற்றும் இறால் உருகுவதற்குத் தேவையான பிற தாதுப்பொருட்களைக் கொண்டுள்ளன. உங்கள் குழாய் நீர் மிகவும் மென்மையாகவும், தாதுக்கள் குறைவாகவும் இருந்தால் , அவற்றின் வழக்கமான உணவு சுழற்சியின் ஒரு பகுதியாக நானோ விருந்து உணவுத் தொகுதியில் கைவிடுவதைக் கவனியுங்கள் . உங்கள் இறால், நத்தைகள் மற்றும் மீன்கள் அனுபவிக்கும் சத்தான பிளாங்க்டன் மற்றும் ஸ்பைருலினா ஆகியவற்றால் தொகுதிகள் நிரம்பியுள்ளன.

7. காய்கறிகள்

பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட பச்சை பீன்ஸ்

 

பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட அல்லது வெட்டப்பட்ட காய்கறிகள் உங்கள் இறால் உணவில் தாவர உள்ளடக்கத்தை அதிகரிக்க உதவும் எளிதில் கிடைக்கும் உணவு. சத்தான உள்ளடக்கம், மென்மையான அமைப்பு மற்றும் உடனடியாக மூழ்கும் திறன் ஆகியவற்றின் காரணமாக பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட பச்சை பீன்ஸ் அவர்களுக்கு பிடித்த ஒன்று. பதிவு செய்யப்பட்ட துண்டுகளாக்கப்பட்ட கேரட் உணவளிக்க மற்றொரு பிரபலமான காய்கறி ஆகும், ஏனெனில் பீட்டா கரோட்டின் இயற்கையாகவே இறாலில் சிவப்பு-ஆரஞ்சு நிறத்தை மேம்படுத்துகிறது. சீமை சுரைக்காயின் துண்டுகளை வெட்டவும் முயற்சி செய்யலாம், இதனால் இறால் மேய்ச்சலுக்கு அவை மென்மையாக இருக்கும். தொட்டியை அதிகப்படியாகப் பயன்படுத்தாமல் கவனமாக இருங்கள், ஏனெனில் சாப்பிடாத காய்கறிகள் இறுதியில் வீழ்ச்சியடையும் மற்றும் தொட்டியில் சிதைவடைந்தால் நீர் தர சிக்கல்களை ஏற்படுத்தக்கூடும்.

போனஸ்: கட்டப்பா இலைகள்

கட்டப்பா இலைகள்

 

இந்திய பாதாம் இலைகள் என்றும் அழைக்கப்படும் இந்த உலர்ந்த தாவரவியல் பெரும்பாலும் மீன்வளங்களில் பயன்படுத்தப்படுகிறது, ஏனெனில் அவை பழுப்பு நிற டானின்களை லேசான ஆண்டிபயாடிக் மற்றும் பூஞ்சை காளான் பண்புகளைக் கொண்ட நீரில் விடுகின்றன. இறால் வளர்ப்பவர்கள் அவர்களை நேசிக்கிறார்கள், ஏனெனில் இலைகள் பயோஃபில்மின் மெல்லிய அடுக்கை உடைக்கின்றன. இந்த பயோஃபில்மில் குழந்தை இறால்களுக்கு நாள் முழுவதும் மேய்ச்சலுக்கான சத்தான பாக்டீரியா, ஆல்கா மற்றும் பிற நுண்ணுயிரிகள் உள்ளன. 20 கேலன் தண்ணீருக்கு ஒரு இலையைச் சேர்த்து, பழைய இலை துளைகளை உருவாக்கத் தொடங்கியதும் புதிய இலையைச் சேர்க்க பரிந்துரைக்கிறோம். பழைய இலையை வெளியே எடுக்க வேண்டிய அவசியமில்லை, ஏனெனில் அது உங்கள் இறால் முழுவதுமாக விழுங்கும்.

எங்கள் அனுபவத்தில், பெரும்பாலான இறால்கள் அவ்வளவு சேகரிப்பதில்லை, மேலும் நீங்கள் மீன்வளத்திற்குள் இறக்கும் எந்த உணவையும் ஆவலுடன் சாப்பிடுவார்கள். இறால்களை வைத்திருத்தல், உணவளித்தல் மற்றும் இனப்பெருக்கம் செய்வது பற்றிய கூடுதல் தகவலுக்கு, நன்னீர் குள்ள இறால் பற்றிய எங்கள் கண்ணோட்டத்தைப் படியுங்கள்.

Top 5 Peaceful Gouramis for a Community Tank

0

Gouramis are a unique freshwater fish, often known for their flat, oval-shaped bodies and whisker-like feeler fins. As a type of anabantoid or labyrinth fish, they have a special labyrinth organ that acts like rudimentary air, allowing them to gulp oxygen from the surface and create bubble nests for breeding. Gouramis sometimes get a bad reputation for being ornery, so we found our top 5 peaceful gouramis that play nice with other community fish.

1. Female Powder Blue Gourami

Dwarf gouramis (Trichogaster lalius) are one of the most popular gouramis you see at pet stores. Despite their small size, male can be quite feisty and may end up bullying their fellow tank mates. Females are much calmer by nature, but most of them are duller in color. Luckily, female powder blue gouramis look just as stunning as their male counterparts without the attitude problems. You can keep this 3-inch (7.5 cm) fish by herself or in a group of girls. To contrast with their beautiful blue scales, try adding some orange schooling fish like lambchop rasboras or ember tetras. As with most smaller gouramis, they will eat just about anything a betta fish does, such as floating betta pellets, insect-based granules, and more.

Blue Gourami 1

Female gouramis tend to have a rounded tip on their dorsal fin and a larger body size compared to males.

2. Pearl Gourami

Hailing from southeast Asia, Trichopodus leerii is the largest species on our list that grows up to 5 inches (13 cm) in length. Because of their bigger size, you can keep one in a 29-gallon tank or a group of them in a 55- or 75-gallon aquarium. Their light brown body is covered in white dots or “pearls” with a black horizontal line running down the side, and males display a bright red-orange throat and belly during courtship. Compared to other gouramis, they have especially long and thin modified ventral fins that act like whiskers to help them explore their environment. Pearl gouramis are not picky eaters and will readily consume an omnivore diet of freeze-dried foods, Hikari Vibra Bites, and floating pellets.

pearl gourami

Pearl gouramis are instantly recognizable by their spotted pearls and long ventral fins.

3. Chocolate Gourami

Looking for a rarer species to add to your collection? Sphaerichthys osphromenoides is a 2.5-inch (6 cm) gourami with a dark chocolate brown body that’s shaped like a leaf and overlaid with vertical, golden stripes. Because the fish are usually wild-caught, they can be picky eaters initially that only take live and frozen foods, but with enough patience, hobbyists have successfully converted them to eating crushed flakes and micro pellets. In Indonesia and the surrounding regions, they come from waters with low pH, low GH (general hardness), and gentle flow. To truly appreciate these peaceful, laidback gouramis, add lots of live aquarium plants and shaded places to hide so that they feel comfortable in their new surroundings.

chocolate gourami

Chocolate gouramis can be a little delicate when you first buy them, so pamper them with a stress-free environment to increase their health and immunity.

4. Sparkling Gourami

Coming in at 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, Trichopsis pumila (also known as the pygmy gourami or dwarf croaking gourami) is the smallest species on our list. They are one of the few fish that can make an audible sound that comes from twitching their modified pectoral fins and can be heard “croaking” during sparring or courtship. Sparkling gouramis have bright blue eyes and a body with brown, dotted striping and iridescent blue spangling. Keep these miniature gouramis by themselves, in pairs, or in a small group with other peaceful, nano fish. You can feed them anything small enough to fit in their mouths, like daphnia, baby brine shrimp, and fine granules.

sparkling gourami or dwarf croaking gourami

Sparkling gouramis are excellent micropredators that will happily eat up all the seed shrimp, detritus worms, and even hydra in your fish tank.

5. Honey Gourami

The super peaceful Trichogaster chuna is native to India and Bangladesh, and several color variants have been produced, such as wild type, yellow-gold, and red. As with most gouramis, the males tend to be more colorful than the females. Both sexes are equally good-natured and can live as a single, pair, or group with similarly sized community fish. They really stand out in a lushy planted aquarium with schooling fish of a different color, like green neon tetras. Honey gouramis are also fun and easy to breed, where the male builds a bubble nest to protect the fertilized eggs until they hatch.

honey gourami

Honey gouramis are mostly solid-colored, but males often develop a dark blue-black throat and abdomen during breeding periods.

Honorable Mention: Paradise Fish

Macropodus opercularis is a famous gourami from East Asia and is historically labeled as one of the first tropical freshwater fish kept in a home aquarium (besides pond fish like carp and goldfish). It can grow to 2.5-3 inches (6-8 cm) long and comes in normal, albino, and solid blue versions. The “normal” type features a forked tail and striking blue and red-orange vertical stripes. Paradise fish are extremely hardy and can live in a temperature range from 61-80°F (16-27°C), which means you can keep them in an unheated aquarium of 20 gallons or larger.

paradise fish or paradise gourami

Paradise fish have several nicknames, including “paradise gourami” and “Chinese fighting fish.”

The reason why this beautiful fish gets an honorable mention is because they are considered semi-aggressive like betta fish, where the males like to squabble over territory. However, like betta fish, they can be kept in a community tank if given the right tank mates. Avoid adding other anabantoids (e.g., bettas and other gouramis), slow-moving fish, or fish with long fins. Instead, we recommend faster, larger schooling fish like giant danios and barbs, as well as bottom dwellers like catfish and loaches. If you are interested in a cheap, centerpiece fish with a bold personality, you have to try the paradise gourami.

How to Quarantine Fish the Easy Way

0

Many beginners may not know this, but one of the easiest ways to stop your fish from getting sick is to set up a quarantine tank. This separate aquarium is used to temporarily hold newly purchased fish or ailing animals that need a quiet environment to heal. By putting them in isolation, it allows you to closely observe their health, administer any treatments, and prevent illnesses from spreading. Once they are completely healthy and disease-free, you can safely add them to your main display tank without infecting the existing fish.

Materials for the Hospital Tank

  • Clear plastic tub or aquarium with a lid
  • Aquarium filter with low flow, like a sponge filter
  • Aquarium heater and thermometer
  • Aquarium decorations and hides
  • Water conditioner
  • Trio of quarantine medications (includes Mardel Maracyn, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, and Fritz ParaCleanse)

How to Set Up a Quarantine Fish Tank

  1. To avoid cross contamination, place the quarantine tank in a different room away from your main display tanks if possible. (Other best practices include using a separate set of nets and siphons for the quarantine setup and washing your hands after each time you touch the quarantine fish tank.)
  2. If you are using a plastic tub, prepare the lid by drilling some holes for air flow and cutting a small rectangle on the side for power cables and airline tubing to pass through. Another optional step is to mark up the side of the tub with 1-gallon measurement lines to help make water changes and medicine dosing easier.

Step 2 - holes in quarantine tub lid

A clear plastic container can be used as a cheap quarantine setup. Cut or drill some holes in the lid to allow for easy equipment installation and better air flow.

  1. Fill the hospital tank with water and add water conditioner.
  2. Install the aquarium filter and heater, and add fish tank ornaments to give the animals some shelter. There is no need to use gravel or other substrate because a bare bottom setup allows you to easily clean the hospital tank and examine the fish’s waste if needed.

Step 4 - add fish tank decorations to hospital tank

Use a bare bottom tank with aquarium decorations to provide plenty of cover. Sick fish often want to hide, so the extra shelters will make them feel more comfortable.

  1. Add the fish, observe their physical appearance and behavior, and treat with medication if needed. Remove any chemical filtration (like activated carbon) and UV sterilizers before adding medicines.
    1. If your fish are already sick and you can identify the disease, treat the fish with the specific medication for that illness and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging. If you are not sure which disease they have, follow the instructions in this article.
    2. If you purchased fish from a local fish store or breeder that you trust to have healthy animals, feed and observe the fish for a couple days. If you detect an illness, see Step 5a above. If you do not see any symptoms, consider proactively treating them with ParaCleanse (as per the manufacturer’s instructions) to clear out any remaining internal parasites that are harder to spot.
    3. If you bought new fish from an online retailer, pet store chain, or untested source, proactively treat them with the quarantine medication trio. These medicines contain a blend of antibiotic, antifungal, and anti-parasitic active ingredients that are safe for scaleless fish, fry, shrimp, snails, live plants, and beneficial bacteria. Dose 1 packet of Maracyn, 1 packet of ParaCleanse, and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of Ich-X for every 10 gallons of water. Let the medication soak in the water for 7 days without feeding the fish.

description of quarantine med trio from Aquarium Co-Op

Description of quarantine medication trio

  1. After treatment is completed, do regular water changes each week to gradually remove the medications over time. Help the fish to build up their immune systems by feeding high quality fish food like frozen foods, which are nutritionally dense and easy to clean up.
  2. We recommend quarantining most new fish for 4-6 weeks since the last disease symptom or death was seen. If you want to be extra safe, consider adding two healthy fish from your main display tank to the fish hospital tank and see if they get sick. If everyone remains well, you can finally release the isolated fish from quarantine.
  3. Once quarantine is done, clean the hospital tank setup and store everything dry. If you plan on purchasing more fish in the near future, just leave everything running so that it will be ready for the next batch.

Frequently Asked Questions about Fish Quarantine

How big does a quarantine tank need to be? Since it is only a temporary setup, a quarantine tank does not need to be as big as the recommended size for the fish to permanently live in. A hospital tank with less water volume also allows you to use less medication when treating the fish.

How do you keep a quarantine tank cycled? The easiest way is to run a spare sponge filter (or extra filter media in a hang-on-back filter) in one of your display aquariums. Whenever you need to quarantine some fish, move that extra sponge filter or filter media to the hospital tank so it will bring over lots of beneficial bacteria to help purify the water. After the quarantine period is complete, put the sponge filter or filter media back in your main tank. To find out what is cycling and how to cycle an aquarium,

use of two sponge filters to keep quarantine tank cycled

Run an extra sponge filter or filter media in an established tank, and then use it to bring beneficial bacteria to the hospital tank when needed.

Can I quarantine fish in a bucket? Yes, any clean, food-safe container that is large enough will work in an emergency. However, we recommend using a container with clear sides so that you can easily view the fish from all angles to see if their health is improving or worsening.

Should you quarantine shrimp and snails? Dwarf shrimp can sometimes carry diseases, especially if purchased directly from importers, so if you are bringing in a batch to add to an existing colony, consider putting them in quarantine first to observe their condition. In our experience, snails rarely seem to carry illnesses, so we usually skip the quarantine step and add them directly to our aquariums.

Do I have to quarantine my first fish? If you are setting up your first tank, you can theoretically add new fish directly into the aquarium without setting up a separate quarantine tank since there are no existing animals to protect. One situation where you might want to use a separate hospital fish tank is if your aquarium is very large and the fish are small enough to go in a scaled-down quarantine setup. It will cost less money to dose medication in a smaller volume of water rather than an entire display tank.

Another instance would be if your main aquarium is full of live plants or snails. In cases where the quarantine med trio does not seem to be effective, we often turn to aquarium salt as a second line of defense. Since plants and snails generally do not like high concentrations of salt, it would be best to move your fish to another container for treatment.

What should I use to treat fish if I can’t buy the quarantine med trio? We recommend using aquarium salt – a cheap and widely available “medicine” that is quite effective for broad-spectrum treatment of bacteria, fungus, and external parasites. However, it is not safe for aquatic plants, snails, and certain fish like anchor catfish. For more information, follow the dosage instructions in our aquarium salt article.

Betta Fish Common Diseases

0

Betta fish will be prone to illnesses if the water quality is compromised. Common betta diseases include:

Constipation

An overfed betta is prone to get constipated. Dried foods can also trigger constipation because they are not easily digested. The affected betta will have a swollen stomach, refuse to eat, and show inactivity.

You will also not see any feces at the tank’s bottom. You can relive the fish by fasting them or feeding them one frozen pea.

Ich

Ich is caused by the parasite ichthyopthirius, which naturally occurs in aquariums. The parasite will be harmful to a fish with reduced immunity. It materializes as white spots on the betta’s body.

Other symptoms include clamped fins and inactivity. The betta will try to dislodge the parasites by rubbing on decorations. Ich is addressed by treatments and raising the temperature.

Tail and Fin Rot

These diseases occur in dirty water, and they target the fin and tail of your pet. The fin or tail tissue will disintegrate little by little, and the infection will progress to the betta’s body if left unchecked. If treated early, the tissue will regrow gradually.

Mouth Fungus

Mouth fungus will typically affect a stressed fish, and your betta will be susceptible if the water quality is inappropriate or if they are getting a poor diet.

Symptoms include a cotton-like growth around the pet’s mouth as well as white spots on its fins and mouth. The fins will become frayed as the infection advances.

Treatment will involve cleaning the tank and adding copper sulfate or an antibiotic.

Dropsy

Your betta will be vulnerable to contracting dropsy if you feed it contaminated live food. The fish will have raised scales due to the accumulation of fluid under the scales.

The bacteria is quite contagious, and it will eventually cause kidney failure.

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish

In addition to your aquarium setup, you will need a breeding tank for your betta pair. You can also invest in another tank for the fry.

Other aquarists will divide their tanks to separate the males and females.

The ideal age to breed bettas is when they are four months to one year. Source a breeding pair from a reputable breeder for the best genetics in your fry.

In the wild, female bettas pick the males they desire for mating. They look at a male’s coloration, energy levels, and the health of the fins. Once you get a suitable male, let him settle in the tank for at least two months and feed him live food to increase his carotenoid levels.

The breeding tank should be away from distractions, and it should be equipped with a filter, heater, moss, air pump, and Styrofoam cup.

The males and females will breed under optimum conditions, and the female will evaluate the bubble nest the male builds to ensure it is up to her standards. The males take care of the eggs and the fry, and you can remove them once the fry starts to swim by themselves.

Feeding Your Betta Fish

0

Bettas are naturally carnivores, and they should be sustained with a protein-rich diet.

You will need to source live and frozen food for betta fish. Be careful with live foods since they can harbor bacteria and other contaminants.

Bettas will eat frozen or live mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, bloodworms, wingless fruit flies, and Mysis shrimp.

Many betta-keepers give pellets to their pets, primarily because they are effective, available, and affordable. The ideal pellets for bettas will have more high-quality ingredients than fillers like wheat and corn. Pellets will typically have proteins, fats, fiber, moisture in varying quantities.

Your bettas will also eat freeze-dried food, in addition to fish flakes.

When it comes to feeding frequency, you should not feed your pets more than twice every day.

Overfeeding is a common problem with bettas, since it may appear like your fish is always hungry for more. Bettas have short digestive tracts, and their stomachs are no larger than their eyes.

Only give the pet food they will eat in two minutes. Some aquarists will even fast their bettas for 24 hours after about two weeks. This fasting period will decrease the chances of constipation for the fish.

Betta Fish Tank Mates

0

Betta fish are reputed as territorial and bad tank mates. The feistiness is, however, mostly targeted to other bettas, rather than other fish species.

In the wild, male bettas engage in territorial disputes, and less-dominant males are often forced to flee. Male bettas can cause injury and even death to each other, which is why you should keep them apart.

Avoid keeping bettas with species that are larger or those with similar fins. Additionally, do not keep bettas with fin nippers like red tail sharks or angelfish.

Some of the ideal betta tank mates are:

Mystery Snail

These peaceful aquatic species will keep your tank clean by eating algae and debris. The snail will quickly retreat to its protective shell if the bettas become aggressive.

The mystery snail does not reproduce asexually, which will help to keep its numbers in check.

Tetras

Neon Tetra

Neon Tetra

Many tetras will make good tank mates for your bettas. Small species like the ember and neon tetras will out-swim your betta if it gets aggressive.

Most tetras are shoaling fish, and they will add color to your tank. Some ideal tetras include the diamond tetra, black neon tetra, silvertip tetra, cardinal tetra, and the rummy-nose tetra.

Corys

The Pygmy Corydoras grows to about an inch in length, and it enjoys similar water parameters as the betta fish.

It prefers to roam at the bottom of the tank and will stay away from the upper layers where the betta fish stays.

The cory catfish grows to 1.0 to 2.5 inches, and it will live peacefully with your bettas. Keep the cory catfish in schools of at least four.

Other cory species to consider include the albino cory and the panda cory.

Harlequin Rasbora

Harlequin Rasboras

Harlequin Rasboras

If you have a 10-gallon tank or more, consider keeping the harlequin rasbora. It is a shoaling fish that grows to 1.5 inches in length.

This fish co-exists with the betta in the wild, making it a fit tankmate.

African Dwarf Frogs

African dwarf frogs will tolerate similar conditions to those of your bettas. They are also hardy, and they reach 2.5 inches in length.

The fish are quite active, and you will mostly observe them coming to the surface for air. It also sheds and eats its skin every one to two weeks.

Kuhli Loach

Kuhli Loach

Kuhli Loach

The Kuhli loach is active in the evening and at night. It will, therefore, not run into the betta, minimizing the risk for any aggression on the betta’s part.

Other tankmates to consider are the clown plecos, ghost shrimp, nerite snail, and the galaxy rasbora.

Betta Fish Guide – Care, Feeding, Requirements, Breeding & Tank Mates

0

Bettas are a staple in many aquariums, mainly because of their brilliant coloring. It is called the Siamese fighting fish and has its natural habitats in the rice paddies of Asia.

Bettas are categorized as a labyrinth fish since they have a lung-like organ that absorbs oxygen from the air.

They can, therefore, survive for a short time outside water, and in fishbowls without water flow for oxygen.Betta Fish Care

Betta Fish Care

Bettas are also known to be aggressive. Males will conflict over territories, while even males and females cannot be kept together.

Betta Fish Aquarium Requirements

Your bettas will need the most conducive environment to be healthy. Their requirements include:

Tank Size for Betta Fish

Most beginner aquarists will contain bettas in small spaces like bowls and vases. Bettas, however, need swimming spaces as much as other fish species, and anything under five gallons will be constrictive.

Wild bettas are used to swimming around the extensive rice paddies of their natural habitats. Do not keep them in tiny tanks, especially because waste will quickly pile up.

Bigger tanks have a lot of benefits than small setups. Bettas are sensitive to ammonia levels, which can easily spike in a small tank. Smaller tanks also require frequent changes, which means setting aside more time for maintenance.

Large tanks will also tame your betta’s aggression. Bettas will rarely get aggressive if they have a lot of territory to themselves, and you can even couple them up with a semi-aggressive species in a community tank.

Bettas typically reach 2.5 inches in length, and a small tank will prevent them from growing into their full length.

If you have a large tank, provide densely planted regions to mimic the betta’s natural habitat. Your betta can get stressed in a large tank without any decorations or plants.

Bettas will thus be happy in tanks from five gallons and above.

Best Plants and Decorations for Bettas

Plants & Decoration for Betta Fish

Plants & Decoration for Betta Fish

Bettas love live plants since they provide hiding spots. There are a lot of plant species you can include in your betta tank, including Amazon Sword and Anubias Nana.

The java fern thrives in similar water parameters as bettas, and it will be a great addition to your tank. The plant will prosper in low light, although you should avoid burying the rhizome under the substrate. The java fern will easily float around, but you can tie it to a rock to keep it in place.

Another suitable plant for a betta tank is the java moss, which is quite hardy and will grow in any water parameters. You only have to maintain temperatures between 78 to 80 °F. The java moss grows incredibly fast, and you will need to trim it constantly.

The Amazon frogbit’s leaves will provide a floating lily pad for your pets. Ensure that the leaves do not overrun the water’s surface because your betta also needs to go to the surface. Bettas like equal amounts of light and shade and the Amazon frogbit can provide adequate cover.

Hornwort is popularly used in betta tanks because it is hardy and versatile. You can either leave it to float in the aquarium or anchor it in the substrate. The plant also removes nitrates and other toxins. Its bristles can, however, scatter across the water, which means you will have to spend time cleaning.

Other plants to include in a betta setup include Wisteria, Anacharis, Hygrophila, and Water Sprite.

You can also source for fake plants with the benefit of not having to maintain them. Opt for the silk types to reduce the chances of your bettas hurting themselves from the sharp parts in plastic plants.

Most betta tanks also have driftwood. In addition to having a place to anchor other plants, the driftwood can also become a focal point in your aquarium. It also provides hiding spots for the fish.

Driftwood should be used with care as it lowers the PH of water. Source it from a seller instead of collecting it, and ensure you wash it carefully.

You can also add rocks to your tank, provided they are rated as suitable for aquariums. When using decorations with betta fish, avoid anything with sharp edges and metal or glass items.

Substrate for Betta Aquarium

The natural habitats of bettas include rice paddies, marshes, and slow-moving drainages. These areas are characterized by silt, mud, dense vegetation, and soil. These substrates cannot be replicated in an aquarium, especially because the soil and silt will leave the tank murky.

The substrate choice will depend on whether you are going to use live or fake plants in your setup. Live plants will need nutrients from the substrate, which is why those with a sand or gravel top are popular. Substrates also provide anchorage for live plants.

If you are using fake plants, you will have more variety when it comes to substrates. These include rock and marble.

Gravel is quite popular with betta tanks. It comes in varied colors and is easily available in pet stores. It is also easy to clean gravel since waste does not accumulate as deeply as in other substrates. Plants will grow easily in gravel since it is not very compact. Gravel can, however, be sharp and harm your betta.

Sand is less harmful to your bettas as it has no sharp edges. It is always easy to clean since waste sits on its surface.

Filtration System for Betta Fish

Best Small Aquarium Filter for Betta Fish

A filter will maintain the quality of your betta tank and promote the health of the pets. Bettas are used to still waters, and the filter you select should not produce strong currents.

Sponge filters typically have low currents, although they are not very powerful filter. A hang on the back filter will be more effective, provided you get a model with adjustable flow rates. While canister filters are known to be very powerful, they can provide stressful currents for your bettas.

Whatever filtration system you use, ensure it has a low output rate, and it is easy to use.

Water Parameters

Bettas can be easy to rear if the appropriate water parameters are met, including:

Best Temperature for Betta Fish

The most suitable temperature range for bettas is 78 to 80 °F. The temperature should not drop below 74 °F, and you will need a thermometer and heater to control the range.

Although your bettas will survive in the range 72 to 82 °F, they will be prone to many diseases like the Fur Coat Syndrome bacteria.

Cold temperatures will make bettas lethargic due to slow metabolism, while hot temperatures will boost their metabolism and make the pet age quickly.

Best Water pH Level for Betta

Bettas thrive in a neutral environment. The appropriate PH range for the fish is 6.8 to 7.4. Use test kits to test the PH once or twice every week.

Betta Fish Water Hardness

Bettas favor soft water, and you should ensure the DH is less than 25. Add distilled water if the value is higher, which can be sourced from any grocery store.