When Should I Dose Potassium Fertilizer in My Planted Aquarium?

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17 March 2025

Just as your fish need to have a healthy diet and clean water to grow big and beautiful, plants also require a special “diet” of lighting and nutrients to thrive. To have the proper building blocks needed to grow well, they need large amounts of macronutrients (like nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus) and trace amounts of micronutrients (like magnesium and zinc). Our Easy Green all-in-one liquid fertilizer contains all the correct ratios of these macronutrients and micronutrients that can be easily dosed with a simple pump head or dropper cap. It comes with a very strong 9.21% concentration of potassium (also known as soluble potash or K₂O), so when is it necessary to dose even more potassium in your planted tank?

Do My Aquarium Plants Need More Potassium?

Potassium is responsible for all sorts of vital functions in live plants, both terrestrial and aquatic species. It regulates water and nutrient movement between plant cells, is used in photosynthesis and protein synthesis, activates dozens of enzymes, and controls the stomata (or pores on the leaf’s surface that open and close to allow gas and water exchange). Potassium also transports sugars, starches, and other organic compounds so they can be stored inside bulbs, tubers, and fruits.

Do my aquarium plants have a potassium deficiency? Most of the time when a plant is lacking macronutrients (like potassium), any remaining macronutrients within the plant are moved from the older leaves to the newest shoots to save them. It is very easy to see when you have a potassium deficiency because the older, existing leaves develop very distinctive pinholes that are sometimes rimmed with brown or yellow. If the potassium deficiency continues, then the pinholes will grow into bigger and bigger holes until the entire leaf decays away. For more details on plant nutrient deficiencies, see our full article.

Plants that lack potassium develop small pinholes on the older leaves.

In the majority of planted tank, Easy Green fertilizer provides plenty of potassium and other nutrients, so you won’t need to add any supplemental fertilizers. However, if you are growing high light plants in a high tech aquarium with carbon dioxide (CO₂) injection, they can grow incredibly quickly and may be absorbing potassium at a much faster rate than other nutrients. Also, some plants like java fern and anubias thrive in environments with more potassium. Therefore, if your tank has greater potassium demands than usual, keep reading.

Some plants like java fern and anubias can consume greater amounts of potassium and may develop yellowing and browning if they lack the proper nutrients.

How Often Should I add Potassium to My Aquarium?

Easy Potassium is our potassium supplement that contains a 9.12% concentration of soluble potash (K₂O) derived from potassium sulfate and potassium citrate. Like all the products in our Easy Fertilizer line, it is completely safe for fish, shrimp, snails, and other aquatic animals. Plus, it comes in two sizes with easy-to-use dispensers for quick dosing.

The 500 ml (16.9 oz) bottle treats 5,000 gallons total and has a pump head on top. Dose 1 pump (1 ml) per 10 gallons of water to add 2 ppm of potassium.
The 120 ml (4 oz) bottle treats 1,200 gallons total and has a dropper cap on top. Dose 2 drops per 1 gallon of water to add 2 ppm of potassium.

If you aren’t sure how much potassium your planted tank needs, start off slowly and only dose once a week. Wait two weeks to see the effect it has on your plants, and consider increasing the dosage to two to three times a week if needed. Several planted aquarium articles recommend aiming for approximately 5–20 ppm potassium in your water, depending on the needs of the plants. In general, an excess of potassium in planted tanks does not cause algae growth, and experienced aquatic horticulturists have dosed up to 100 ppm potassium in high tech planted aquariums without experiencing any toxicity issues.

Easy Potassium

Why doesn’t Easy Green contain more potassium? As mentioned before, Easy Green already contains very high amounts of potassium. In fact, our formula has already reached the saturation point for potassium, so the only way to add more is to create a separate potassium supplement. For most aquariums, the amount of potassium in Easy Green is plenty sufficient, but if you have a unique case of using a high tech aquarium or owning lots of potassium-hungry plants, make sure to give Easy Potassium a try.

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A list of Stunning Nano Fish

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Vedha Fish Farm

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17 March 2025

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Are you looking for the perfect small fish to add to your nano aquarium? Whether you have a 10-gallon tank or something even smaller, there are plenty of vibrant, fascinating fish species that will thrive in your setup. After years of experience in fishkeeping and working in the aquarium industry, I’ve compiled a list of my all-time favorite small fish. These species are hardy, beautiful, and well-suited for small tanks.

1. Pygmy Corydoras – The Tiny Bottom Dwellers

Pygmy Corydoras are an excellent choice for small aquariums. These tiny catfish are social, active, and great for keeping the bottom of your tank clean. They’re hardy and adaptable to different water parameters, making them easy to care for. Plus, they are affordable and thrive in groups of six or more. They tolerate a wide variety of temps from 70 to 80 degrees, pH from 6.5 to 8.0, and soft to hard water. Grab yourself a group of 6 or more and enjoy these guys on the bottom of your tank.

2. Clown Killifish – The Rocket-Like Swimmers

Clown Killifish are colorful, top-dwelling fish that resemble miniature rockets. Males boast stunning colors, while females are more muted. They are jumpers, so a well-fitting lid is essential. These fish are relatively easy to breed and enjoy feeding on small floating foods such as baby brine shrimp and frozen Cyclops. They tolerate a wide temperature range from 68 to 80 degrees. They can live in water with a pH from 6.5 to 8.2, and almost any hardness. When breeding, aim for the middle of all of those ranges.

3. Celestial Pearl Danio (Galaxy Rasbora) – A Timeless Classic

Celestial Pearl Danios are one of the most stunning small fish available. With their intricate patterns and striking colors, they bring elegance to any aquarium. They thrive in cool water conditions and are relatively easy to breed. Their mid-water swimming habits make them ideal for a diverse nano tank. They can live in temperatures from 68 to 78, with pH being 6.5 to 8.0 . Hardness can be soft to hard water. For spawning, target the middle and keep them in groups of 6 or more.

4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows – The Hardy Beauties

White Clouds are often overlooked, but they are among the best small fish in the hobby. Available in normal, gold, and long-finned varieties, these fish can even survive in outdoor ponds with freezing temperatures. They are extremely hardy and adapt well to various water conditions. They can handle a temperature range of 30 to 90 degrees, any pH above 6.5, and any hardness. You will only need a pair to spawn them if kept alone. These fish are easy to breed and will usually spawn and make you more.

5. Chili Rasbora – Tiny Fish with Fiery Colors

Chili Rasboras are known for their intense red coloration, which becomes more vibrant in well-maintained tanks. They prefer mid-water areas and do well in heavily planted setups. While they are easy to keep, breeding them is quite challenging. If you manage to breed them successfully, consider sharing your method with the aquarium community! They prefer temperatures from 72 to 82. pH can range from 6.5 to 8.0. Water hardness can be from soft to moderately hard. Keep in groups of 6 or more.

6. Neon Green Tetra – A Unique Twist on a Classic

Neon Green Tetras are even smaller than traditional Neons and display a mesmerizing green hue when viewed from above. They prefer warmer waters and are best suited for aquarists looking to add a unique pop of color to their nano tank. Temperatures can range from 74 to 82, pH from 6.5 to 7.8, with soft to moderate hardness. Keep in groups of 6 or more. Best viewed from standing above to maximize the green color.

7. Fancy Guppies & Endlers – A Rainbow of Options

Guppies and their smaller relatives, Endlers, are excellent choices for small tanks. They come in a vast array of colors and patterns and are incredibly easy to breed. With proper care, they will thrive in hard water and higher pH environments, making them one of the most versatile nano fish. Temperatures can range from 72 to 82 with a pH above 7.0 up to 8.5. Moderately hard to very hard water with lots of minerals is ideal. A single pair can make lots of fry. Keep in groups with more females than males.

8. Sparkling Gourami – The Subtle Stunner

Sparkling Gouramis have an iridescent glow when light hits them just right. These fish exhibit fascinating behavior, often stalking their food like tiny predators. They help control small pest populations like Hydra and add a unique dynamic to a nano tank. Temperatures can range from 72 to 80 degrees, with a pH level of 6.5 to 7.8 with low to moderate hardness. These are micro predators that can even hunt some hydra for you.

9. Kuhli Loach – The Playful “Danger Noodle”

Kuhli Loaches are bottom-dwelling, eel-like fish that come in various colors and patterns. They are social and should be kept in groups. While they spend much of their time hiding, they are a joy to watch when they emerge and explore their environment. Temperatures should range between 72 to 82, with a ph above 6.5 to 8.2. Soft to hard water. Keep in groups of 3 or more.

10. Apistogramma (Dwarf Cichlids) – Small But Mighty

If you’re looking for a more interactive and rewarding fish, a pair of Apistogramma is an excellent choice. These dwarf cichlids require specific water conditions, including soft, warm water, but they will reward you with fascinating behavior and potential breeding opportunities. Temperatures should be 82 to 85 for best results, with a pH of 6.5 to 8.0 with soft to moderate water hardness. A single pair when happy can produce lots of fry. Watch out for sneaker males, which means when buying a boy and a girl, the sexually immature male can look like a female and act like one with a dominant male in a tank.

11. Shell-Dwelling Cichlids (Neolamprologus Multifasciatus) – The Burrowing Engineers

Multis, or shell dwellers, are tiny African cichlids that live in and around shells. They constantly dig and rearrange their environment, making them endlessly entertaining to watch. They prefer high-pH, hard water and do best in species-only setups. Temperatures can range from 72 to 82 with a pH of 7.0 to 8.5. Moderate to hard water is ideal Buying a group of 6 usually gets you at least one female. With enough shells and lots of small foods floating into the shells, you’ll make fry. I recommend feeding both our magic small fish feed to feed the fry and the community pellets for the adults.

12. Red Neon Rainbowfish – A Burst of Color

Red Neon Rainbowfish are small, bright, and active. While they can be pricey, they are well worth the investment for their beauty and engaging behavior. They prefer warm water and do well in groups, where males will display their best colors. Temperatures can range from 70 to 82 degrees with a pH of 7.0 to 8.0 with soft to moderately hard water. A single pair can give you eggs with a floating spawning mop. Raising the fry requires very tiny powder foods with a long small fry grow out time.

Final Thoughts

There are countless small fish species that make excellent additions to nano aquariums. Whether you prefer the elegance of Celestial Pearl Danios, the hardiness of White Clouds, or the playful nature of Kuhli Loaches, there’s a perfect small fish for every aquarist.

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5 Easy Tricks to Supercharge Your Aquarium Filter

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Vedha Fish Farm

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9 February 2025

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Countless aquarium filtration hacks exist, promising improved efficiency, cost savings, and more. While some are merely fads, others are genuine gems discovered by seasoned fishkeepers. Having used hundreds of filters in our store and personal fish rooms, we’ve compiled the top 5 simple yet effective tips for maximizing your filter’s performance.

Reusable Filter Media

Ever wondered how long those filter cartridges included with aquarium kits (HOB or internal filters) actually last? Sadly, many manufacturers use disposable cartridges, recommending replacement every 1-3 months, primarily for profit. These cartridges, typically containing filter floss for mechanical filtration and activated carbon for chemical filtration, quickly become clogged and lose effectiveness. Their design also makes them difficult to clean and reuse.

The good news is that you can easily replace these disposables with reusable media like coarse sponge pads and bio-rings. Simply clean them in a bucket of old tank water (no soap!) when dirty and return them to the filter. This not only saves money but also preserves the crucial beneficial bacteria that provide biological filtration, consuming waste and purifying the water. These reusable options often last for years and can even be used to cycle new tanks. Consider reusable chemical filtration media like Seachem Purigen, which, unlike activated carbon, can be regenerated with a bleach solution.

What is Pre FIlter Sponge

For any filter with an intake tube (HOB, canister, etc.), a pre-filter sponge is invaluable. This simple, cylinder-shaped sponge slips over the intake tube like a sock, preventing fish food, debris, small creatures, and substrate from entering and potentially damaging the filter motor. Acting as the first stage of mechanical filtration, it traps the majority of the larger particles before they reach the main filter media. This keeps the media cleaner, leading to more efficient filter operation and less frequent cleanings. The pre-filter sponge also provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, boosting biological filtration. While a fine sponge might seem like it would trap more particles, we recommend a coarse sponge with larger pores. Fine sponges can clog easily, putting strain on the filter and shortening its lifespan. For more detailed information on choosing and fitting the perfect pre-filter sponge, check out our full article.

Keep an Air Stone in your Filter

Sponge filters typically produce large, irregular bubbles, creating a stop-and-go flow. Adding an air stone inside the sponge filter transforms these large bubbles into a consistent stream of tiny bubbles. This creates a more even water flow through the sponge, improving its particle-trapping efficiency and reducing noise. For instructions on installing an air stone in a sponge filter, see [link to instructions].

Even if you don’t use sponge filters, an air stone can benefit your hang-on-back filter. Placing one in the HOB filter’s media compartment significantly boosts the growth of beneficial bacteria and increases oxygen levels in the water, creating a healthier environment for your fish and plants.

Add Carbon to a Sponge Filter

Adding carbon to a sponge filter, while not the most conventional method, can be a useful technique when dealing with specific water quality issues. Since sponge filters lack a dedicated media compartment, the key is to utilize carbon-infused media pads. These pads, typically designed for other filter types, can be adapted to work effectively with sponge filters. The process involves cutting the pad to an appropriate size and securely wrapping it around the sponge filter itself, typically using a rubber band to hold it in place. This placement ensures that water drawn through the sponge filter also passes through the carbon pad.

The mechanics of this setup are quite simple. As the air bubbles rise through the sponge filter’s lift tube, they create an upward current, drawing water into and through the filter. By positioning the carbon pad around the sponge, the incoming water is forced to flow through the pad before reaching the sponge material. This process effectively removes toxins and impurities from the water as it filters through the carbon. The constant flow of water ensures continuous contact with the carbon, maximizing its absorption capabilities.

This method isn’t limited to just carbon pads. Other chemical filtration pads, such as those designed for ammonia or phosphate removal, can be used in the same manner. This adaptability makes the technique particularly valuable when dealing with specific water parameters that need to be addressed without altering the established biological filtration within the sponge filter itself. It offers a simple and effective way to incorporate chemical filtration into a sponge filter system, even without a traditional media compartment.

Keeping More Filtration is not good

The common belief that “more filtration is always better” can be misleading, particularly in the aquarium hobby. While adequate filtration is crucial for maintaining water quality, simply adding more filters isn’t a guaranteed path to success. In fact, it can sometimes create more problems than it solves. Each additional filter introduces another potential point of failure, increasing the risk of overflows, leaks, and other malfunctions. Furthermore, maintaining multiple filters requires more time, effort, and expense, from cleaning filter media and impellers to replacing parts. This increased complexity can ironically make it easier to overlook a developing problem with one of the many systems, potentially leading to a decline in water quality.

A more effective approach is to focus on optimizing the filtration you already have. This involves ensuring your existing filter is appropriately sized for your aquarium, performing regular maintenance, and implementing techniques to maximize its efficiency. As discussed previously, using a pre-filter sponge, switching to reusable media, and even incorporating an air stone can significantly enhance a single filter’s performance. By streamlining your filtration setup and focusing on a single, well-maintained filter, you can often achieve better results with less effort and fewer potential headaches. This “less is more” philosophy not only simplifies maintenance but also encourages a more attentive approach to your aquarium’s health, as you’re more likely to notice any changes in its operation.

A Beginner’s Guide to Marine Aquariums

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Vedha Fish Farm

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8 February 2025

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My Cardiologist's Marine Aquarium - Panoramic View

Saltwater aquariums are a great way to add a touch of the ocean to your home. They are more challenging to set up and maintain than freshwater aquariums, but they can be more rewarding.

This blog post will walk you through the steps involved in setting up a saltwater aquarium.

Preparing Your Aquarium

The first step is to choose a size and type of aquarium. Saltwater aquariums can be small or large, and they can be either fish-only or reef tanks. Fish-only tanks are simpler to set up and maintain, while reef tanks are more complex.

Image From The Spruce Pets – The Spruce / Joshua Seong

Once you have chosen your aquarium, you need to prepare it. This involves cleaning the tank and adding substrate. You will also need to install a filtration system and lighting.

Installing the Sump Equipment

A sump is a separate tank that is used to house the filtration system for your saltwater aquarium. It is important to choose a sump that is the right size for your aquarium.

Running a Wet Test

Once your sump is installed, you need to run a wet test. This involves filling the aquarium and sump with water and checking for leaks.

Adding Substrate and Sea Salts

After you have run a wet test, you can add substrate and sea salts to your aquarium. Substrate is a material that is used to cover the bottom of the tank. Sea salts are used to create the correct salinity level in the water.

Situating the Rock and Aquascaping

Once you have added substrate and sea salts, you can situate the rock and aquascape your aquarium. Aquascaping is the process of arranging rocks and other decorations in your aquarium.

Installing the Lighting System

Saltwater aquariums require special lighting. The type of lighting you need will depend on the type of fish and coral you want to keep.

Adding Livestock and Cycling the Tank

Once your aquarium is set up, you can add livestock. It is important to add livestock slowly and to cycle the tank before adding any fish. Cycling a tank involves allowing the beneficial bacteria to grow in the aquarium.

Maintaining Your Saltwater Aquarium

Once your aquarium is set up, it is important to maintain it. This involves monitoring water quality, cleaning the mechanical filter, and adding new fish slowly.

Tips for Beginners

Here are a few tips for beginners:

Start with a small aquarium.
Do your research.
Be patient.
Don’t be afraid to ask for help.

I hope this blog post has been helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to leave a comment below.

17 Types of Tetra Fishes

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Vedha Fish Farm

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29 November 2021

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Black Tetra

Originating in South America, the black tetra is not only one of the most popular species in the group but one of the most popular aquarium fish in general.

These modest-looking schooling fish only reach up to about three inches in length. Their small size makes them a great choice for a community tank.

The appearance of black tetras is a beautiful combination of dark shades with pretty black patches running vertically across their bodies and small, ripple-like dots covering the area of their bodies closer to the tail.

Their fins form a neat, densely packed grayish fan that attaches seamlessly to their bodies.

Black tetras are an amazing choice if you are looking for a small yet beautiful addition to your community tank.

Cardinal Tetra

The cardinal tetra has earned its popularity due to its stunning appearance and size.

Cardinal tetras can grow up to 1.5 inches long in good aquarium conditions, and if you are lucky, they may end up being slightly bigger than that.

These fish belong to the Paracheirodon genus, which is known for fish that exhibit an iconic, bright iridescent line that spans both sides of their bodies. Combined with their outstanding red coloring, these fish put on amazing light shows in the tank when the sunlight hits one of them.

Neon Tetra Fish

Neon tetra swimming near the bottom of a tank

Relatives of the cardinal tetra, neon tetras have been in the aquarium of pretty much every fishkeeper in the world. They come from the same tropical basins of South America as black tetras and cardinal tetras and reach up to 1.5 inches in length.

What separates them from cardinal tetras is the difference in coloring. The upper part of their bodies near the dorsal fin is significantly darker than that of the cardinal tetra and is usually black or greyish.

Neon tetras also tend to have a lot less red on their bodies than cardinal tetras, but they have retained the iconic red line. This line, however, only stretches halfway across their bodies.

Neon tetras are a great choice for a community tank or any other kind of setup that would fit into a small- or medium-sized aquarium.

Green Neon Tetra

The green neon tetra comes from the same genus and family as both the neon and cardinal tetra. You can easily mistake it for one of these species because of how masterfully it conceals the greenish shade.

Although its appearance is similar to that of its relatives, the green neon’s abdomen has a mix of green, as does the upper part of its body. The signature line of neons also has a greenish shade to it.

Like many other tetras, green neons grow up to 1.5 inches in length.

Flame Tetra

Also referred to as red tetras, flame tetras are known as some of the most beautiful species by aquarium enthusiasts. Their incredible and vibrant appearance will light up any community tank like no other breed.

The scales of the flame tetra are so delicate that its body is almost transparent. The coloration of these fish is an exciting mix of red and orange.

Depending on the individual fish, they may have a couple of black patches closer to their head. Flame tetras are also one of the smaller types of tetras a maximum length of 1.2 inches.

Blue Tetra

An Amazon native, the blue tetra has one of the most unique appearances of all the tetra species, despite largely consisting of only one color. Most of its body is either dark blue or purple, with central parts more saturated and darker.

The iridescence can still be seen in those fish if the lighting is right. If you are looking straight at it and the light hits their side at the right angle, you will witness nature at its finest.

These active little fish reach up to 2.3 inches in length and usually live for up to 3.5 years in good conditions.

Ruby Tetra

The ruby tetra is an interesting member of the tetra family.

This species has a very unusual body shape – it’s quite thin, compressed on the sides, and while other species have a more rounded body, this one is prolonged.

The coloring of the ruby tetra consists of light orange with some red gradients, especially closer to the upper side of the body. Its abdomen is white, and so are its fins for the most part. The ruby tetra grows up to 1.6 inches in length but surprisingly, it can grow larger in captivity.

Rainbow Tetra

One of the most in-demand aquarium species in the world, the rainbow tetra continues to spark up a flame of excitement in aquarists of all ages. No matter what angle you look at it, it never appears the same twice.

The rainbow tetra is blue, green, white, and grey, but its iridescence is what makes all the colors of the rainbow come together. This tetra species doesn’t get too big, with most adults reaching up to 1.5 inches in length.

This species is a great addition to your community tank and is bound to bring a nice colorful splash into every aquarium.

Ember Tetra

A small, peaceful fish, the ember tetra is a beautiful species. Its personality combined with its vivid appearance makes the ember tetra an outstanding choice for a community tank.

Ember tetras glow bright orange, and their skin is so thin that it makes them look almost transparent.

These little swimmers grow up to one inch in length and are quite easy to care for. They look majestic against a planted background and will be a great fit for a community tank. If you are keeping a planted tank, embers are a must-have!

Lemon Tetra

Also native to South America, the lemon tetra is a well-known and sought-after tropical aquarium fish. Its appearance makes it easy to spot, even in a very crowded tank, thanks to its signature bright yellow markings.

Ember tetras are covered in tiny, compressed, densely packed scales, while their eyes are pitch-black with a beautiful red outline. They reach up to two inches in length and are quite easy to breed.

Diamond Tetra

An exquisite jewel among the tetra species, the diamond tetra gets its name from its intricate scale pattern that makes it shine bright like a diamond.

The diamond tetra’s body is greenish in color with a mix of gray, black, and yellow. These fish have beautiful veil-like fins and black eyes that are brightly outlined with vivid red.

They look magical in a medium planted community tank alongside other members of the family or other small freshwater fish. Diamond tetras are not a demanding species and can be easily bred in the tank.

Emperor Tetra

How about a drop of royal blood in your tank?

Emperor tetras are known for their distinct coloring and sturdiness.

An interesting thing to note is the difference between male and female emperors; males have dark purple coloring while females have a more modest grayish coloration.

Originating from Colombia, emperor tetras have become a favorite for many aquarists due to how well they fit into community and single setups. They grow to only about 1.5 inches in captivity and don’t require a lot of attention.

Congo Tetra

Coming from the diverse Congo River, the Congo tetra has a radiant appearance. Its main coloration is a unique mix of blue, red, yellow, and green. Its scales are large and easily distinguishable.

The fins of the Congo tetra are mainly gray, with only the tail having a black outer lining.

Congo tetras will stand out in an aquarium not only because of their unique appearance but because of their size. These tetra fish can reach up to three inches in length, which is considered large for this family.

If you are looking for a new exciting fish to add a bit of color to your tank, the Congo is a great choice.

Bloodfin Tetra

Bloodfin tetras are a wonderful choice for beginners because of their sturdiness and sociable attitude.

Like other tetra species, bloodfins love to form schools, which can be an extremely useful characteristic in community tanks.

Bloodfin tetras are grayish with bright red fins, which is where they get their name.

Depending on the individual fish and the environment, the coloration of its fins may be lighter or darker (this is also a good indicator of the water quality in your tank, with darker colors indication healthier fish).

Rummy Nose Tetra

Showcasing an interesting fusion of styles and color, rummy nose tetras are loved by fishkeepers because of their long lifespans and peaceful temperaments. Their bodies are covered in small, tightly packed scales.

The rummy nose tetra has a bright red head, which is why it has its name. The rummy nose’s tail is a much more tasteful pattern, with an elegant mix of black and white patches.

These fish reach up to 2.5 inches in length and can live for up to 8 years. Not a fish to miss if you are a true aquarium enthusiast.

Buenos Aires Tetra

Combining the unique physical characteristics of several other tetras, the Buenos Aires tetra is a highly regarded fish. First described more than a century ago, this species has become a staple in many aquariums since then.

The Buenos Aires tetra’s appearance is a brilliant combination of red fins and a vibrant line across its body. The brilliant colors of this fish stand out boldly and look amazing in community tanks. Buenos Aires tetras are also quite large for tetras, growing up to 3 inches in length.

Although a great choice for community tanks, these fish require a bit more attention when it comes to water quality than other tetra varieties.

Penguin Tetra

Last but not least, the penguin tetra is also sometimes called the blackline penguinfish or the hockey-stick tetra.

Highly sociable fish, penguin tetras easily form schools and feel comfortable with at least two other companions in a tank.

Their appearance is very distinctive, consisting of a dark black line that spans both of their sides with a light-yellow outline. Their bodies are gray and their fins are very thin and almost transparent.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Tetras are a very diverse group whose members come from many different environments. Some are native to tropical regions of South America, while others are more used to the damp climates of East Africa, with seasonal heavy rains and wide rivers.

Typically, tetras can be found in medium or large lakes, ponds, rivers, and wetlands.

The conditions in these habitats vary, but most of the time, the bottom would be covered in leaves or wood and there would be a canopy formed overhead by the surrounding trees.

Interestingly, despite their varied locations and habitats, you can keep most types of tetras together in the same tank. Although it may seem that they are incompatible because of their geographic distribution, they can all thrive within the same range of parameters.

Tank Setup

Most tetras feel comfortable in a moderately warm tank with a temperature ranging between 75°F–80.5°F.

Keeping the water range within these limits is important to prevent sickness. Lower temperatures drastically reduce the activity of your fish and slow down their metabolisms.

These fish require a pH of 6–7 and a water hardness of 12–15 dGH.

As these fish are active swimmers, you need to install a good filter in order to create a medium to hard flow. This will help to closely resemble their natural environment that is never static and is always moved around by either the wind or water currents.

The substrate you choose is completely up to you and will depend entirely on your personal preference, as tetras are not too picky. The substrate in their natural environment has always been moved around and resembles more of a mix, rather than homogenous material.

Another important aspect of the aquarium is live plants.

Whereas some fish will tear down any plants in their sight, tetras love and can cohabitate with even the most delicate plant species.

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

They should be kept in a tank that is at least 10 gallons. However, this size should increase depending on how many specimens you decide to keep and whether you are planning on making a community aquarium.

How Many Can Be Kept Per Gallon?

You should allow at least two gallons for each tetra.

Caring for Tetras

Tetra fish are appealing for fishkeepers because they require very little maintenance.

This is because of their size and natural sturdiness. It’s a true win-win situation for aquarists.

The majority of species are not prone to any particular disease, but they are very susceptible to changes in water conditions, so you will have to keep this in mind and perform bi-weekly water changes.

Regular water changes help keep the water aerated and prevent it from becoming stale, which helps break the life cycles of parasites and harmful bacteria.

You should also check whether your fish has any individual illnesses or chronic conditions, such as mycobacteriosis.

Sometimes when a fish falls ill, people immediately assume that this has to deal with the quality of the water.

However, water quality is not always the problem and sometimes the disease may have been triggered by a slight change in the environment or any small chemical. This is especially dangerous if you are installing new equipment in your tank and invasive microorganisms sneak in.

Because of their size, tetras can be kept in small aquariums, and finding compatible neighbors is not a difficult task.

Diet & Feeding

The majority of tetra types are native to tropical regions of South America. The well-known Amazon River, its tributaries, and countless estuaries have proven to be a very fertile environment for aquatic life.

Here you will find warm, well-oxygenated waters with an abundance of food.

Tetras will eat everything they can get to, including insects that end up on the water surface and smaller freshwater organisms.

Just like in the wild, in the aquarium, these species are not picky with food. They will happily feed on all sorts of foods, including granules and flakes. Tetras will eat both frozen and dry foods, and will also gladly feast on live food.

Because tetras are usually kept in schools, you should get an automatic food dispenser, which will ensure that every fish gets enough food and also help you avoid overfeeding.

Feed tetras twice a day, as much as they can eat in a period of around two minutes.

Angelfish Tank setup and Care

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Vedha Fish Farm

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27 November 2021

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The Freshwater Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) belongs to the Cichlidae family. This family includes all species of freshwater Cichlids.

It should not be confused with the Marine Angelfish, which belongs to the Pomacanthidae family.

These fish are one of the many unique species that come from Brazil’s Amazon River. They are found in the river basin and its tributaries in Peru, Colombia, and Guiana.

They are one of the most popular freshwater Cichlid choices due to their fancy appearance, ease of care, and lack of aggression compared to other Cichlid species.

In well-kept tanks, these fish can live up to 10 years. They reach maturity at around 10 months of age.

Since they are so popular, you can find them at most aquarium suppliers and pet shops.

On average they will cost around $10 – specialty breeds will cost between $20 and $40, depending on the variety and the quality.

Typical Behavior

Like most Cichlids, they can be quite aggressive. They will form small hierarchies and fight to defend their positions. If you catch your angels’ locking lips, they are actually fighting.

They will form small schools but are not particularly social with the others in their school. They are quite territorial and are more likely to fight than cooperate.

However, they are not as aggressive as other Cichlids. They are not likely to bully others outside of their school.

You can watch them as they weave in and out of your aquarium plants in the middle level of your tank. Although they might hide in an overcrowded tank, they are otherwise very showy fish.

These fish are one of the few species that take care of their young. They will fiercely defend their eggs and rear the newly-hatched larvae and fry for up to two months.

Outside of competition and mating, they will not interact much with each other. You should not expect to see coordinated swimming patterns and cooperative foraging.

Types and Appearance

Angelfish can grow up to 6 inches long, and their spectacular fins can reach heights of up to 8 inches tall.

They are shaped like arrowheads, with wide bodies and triangular snouts. Their most iconic feature is their trailing dorsal and pectoral fins and their wide fan-shaped caudal fin.

Usually, Freshwater Angelfish are silver with 4 large, black bands. Juveniles have 7 bands but as they mature their bands reduce to 4.

Standard color forms include gold, silver, black and marbled. Marbled Angelfish have black spots or jagged, irregular bands rather than the typical straight black bands.

In addition to the standard colors, specialty colors and patterns are bred for ornamental purposes – some are even bred to resemble Goldfish or Koi!

The Koi variety is silver or white, with orange/red spots and a black marbled pattern that resembles a typical Kohaku Koi fish.

Gold and Platinum Angelfish are completely gold or completely silver, with no banded pattern.

There is even a color form that resembles a panda. Panda Angelfish have stark white scales with an all-over spotty black pattern.

Habitat and Tank Conditions

This species is native to the Amazon River and its tributaries – it is found in slow-moving streams, swamps, and floodplains along the Amazon River basin.

These are tropical fish that thrive in warm water with temperatures between 75-82°F. Their water is often acidic, with little to no salinity.

They live in swampy conditions, with a fine sandy substrate and lots of aquatic vegetation and mosses for hiding.

Their water is usually clear and they live at depths where light can easily penetrate the water and reach them.

Tank Setup

This Cichlid tank should be kept between 75 and 82°F. The pH should be anywhere from 6.8 to 7.

Cichlids like to dig, so any substrate you place in the tank should be soft and fine. This will prevent cuts and scrapes to their scales and fins. Fine sand/mud will make the best substrate for them.

Freshwater Angelfish are used to very small amounts of flow, so there is no need to generate a powerful current – you should use low flow aeration or an under-gravel filter.

The tank will need exposure to 8 to 12 hours of light per day. Any aquarium light that can mimic the sun will do just fine.

To create a miniature swamp that mirrors your Angel’s tropical swampland, you can use plants that are native to the Amazon River.

Amazon Sword plants have wide, broad leaves that make a safe and comfortable place for your fish to a hideout.

Brazilian Waterweed, more commonly known as Anacharis, is another good choice for an Angel tank. Outside of native South American plants, you can include Java Fern and Java Moss.

Avoid using floating vegetation like Duckweed and Pondweed. These can overcrowd your tank and block out light.

What Size Tank Do Freshwater Angelfish Need?

You will need a minimum of 20 gallons to keep a pair of Freshwater Angelfish. You will need at least 80 gallons to keep a small school.

You will need at least 10 gallons for every Freshwater Angelfish in the tank.

Tank Mates

The Amazon River basin that this fish calls home is a biodiversity hotspot. In the wild, these fish live alongside thousands of unique fish species.

The slow-moving streams and swamps of the Amazon are dominated by other species of Freshwater Angelfish, and other Cichlids such as Oscars, Discus, and Banded Cichlids.

They live with Characins, small freshwater Catfish, and the more infamous Amazon River species such as the Silver Arowana and the mighty Arapaima.

Though they come from an area well known for their species richness, selecting compatible tank mates for these little guys can be quite difficult.

If keeping them with other Cichlids, choose species like the discus, dwarf cichlid, and Bolivian ram. These species will not be easily bullied by your Angelfish.

They might even be able to handle sharing a tank with Jack Dempseys, though these are known for being very pushy.

Outside of other Cichlids, Mollies and dwarf gouramis make ideal companions for your Angels. Small freshwater Catfish, particularly plecos and pictus are another good choice.

There are not very many good non-fish companions for these cichlids. Crustaceans and other invertebrates risk being harassed or preyed on.

Avoid keeping South American and African cichlids together. These cichlids are from entirely different parts of the world and require different environmental conditions and water parameters.

Do not mix too many Angelfish species together, or they will behave aggressively towards one another in competition for territory and resources.

Do not keep any of the more aggressive Cichlids, such as Oscars and Convicts, with these fish.

Barbs should be avoided due to their reputation as ‘fin-nippers’. These pushy fish will harass your Freshwater Angelfish and bite at their trailing fins.

Keeping Freshwater Angelfish Together

A single species tank is the best way to keep this Cichlid species. They can be kept in schools of about 5 or 6 individuals.

They will form territories and hierarchies within their school and their competition for dominance can be very engaging.

Care

Angelfish have known carriers of parasitic nematodes. Infection by these nematodes can be fatal and can spread to the other fish in your aquarium.

Infection is caused by them eating nematode’s eggs or larvae, which can be found on unclean food and in dirty tanks.

Once the larvae are eaten, there is a three-month infection period as the worm goes through its life cycle. The worm will steal nutrition from its host, making the fish appear weak over time.

Infected fish may display inflammation, cysts, or bleeding. If you notice these symptoms in your fish, it’s important to separate them from the tank as quickly as possible.

The parasite can be treated with a dewormer administered by a veterinarian that specializes in aquarium fish.

Hexamita is another parasite that affects Cichlids. It is caused by the ingestion of a protozoan that infects the fish’s intestines and gallbladder.

The symptoms of a Hexamita infection include:

weight loss
sluggishness
paleness
discoloration

It can be treated with medicine administered by a fish veterinarian.

To prevent parasitic infections make sure that you are clean your tank at least once a fortnight, or more in particularly messy or smaller tanks.

Make sure that you are carefully inspecting the food you give to your fish. Never give them wild-caught prey.

Any new fish that you plan to place in your community tank should be quarantined for 2 to 4 weeks to make sure they are healthy.

Diet

Angelfish are omnivores, but small live prey makes up the majority of their diet. In the wild, they feast on insects, larvae, crustaceans, rotifers and even smaller fish.

They require a diet high in protein and fiber and do not eat lots of plant material or algae.

In the aquarium, they should get the majority of their nutrition from live prey (just like in the wild).

Tubifex worms are a vital food source for these fish in the aquarium. They provide the protein content that they would be getting from wild rotifers.

You can also give them live water fleas and brine shrimp. Outside of living prey, they can be given flake or pellet foods that are high in protein.

Freeze-dried glass worms and krill provide a little bit of extra protein and satisfy an Angelfish’s appetite.

These are big feeders that must be fed at least twice a day. Mated pairs that you are planning to breed must be fed, even more, up to 4 times a day.

They do not eat aquarium plants or algae. However, adding a little bit of plant food to their diet will help make sure that they get the fiber they need.

You can supplement their diets with cooked garden vegetables, including romaine, zucchini, and spinach.

The vegetables should be lightly blanched before you give them to your fish.

Breeding

One of the reasons these fish are so popular is that they are very easy to breed!

When introduced to a school, Freshwater Angelfish will pair off naturally. Once paired, they will set aside territory for themselves and their mate.

When you see that your fish are paired off, you can prepare them for breeding.

Create a breeding environment using a 20-gallon tank with a low flow filter and a vertical, slanted surface. Tiles, PVC pipes, and Anacharis all make good spawning surfaces.

Your breeding pair should be fed high protein flakes and live tubifex worms up to 4 times a day. The temperature of the breeding tank should be maintained at 82°F.

If you see your female spending a lot of time near the spawning surface, she is preparing to lay her eggs. She will lay anywhere between 200 and 400 eggs per spawning, and the male will fertilize them externally.

The parents will rear the eggs and fry for about a month before the fry can be separated and placed in a 15-20 gallon rearing tank.

Your fry should be fed brine shrimp larvae with hardboiled eggs mixed with water until they are 5 to 7 weeks old. After this, they can be fed flakes and dried foods.

After 6 to 8 weeks in the rearing tank, your Freshwater Angelfish should be ready to graduate to an adult tank.

Are Freshwater Angelfish Suitable For Your Aquarium?

With their exotic beauty, it’s easy to see why the ‘King of the Aquarium’ is so well-loved.

They will shine in a tropical community tank just as well as they will stand out on their own. With a wide range of colors and varieties to choose from, they will fit into any tank.

If you are thinking of keeping a few of these beauties, it helps if you already have experience keeping tropical freshwater fish.

In comparison to the other more difficult Cichlids, they are quite beginner-friendly.

If you want all of the grace and majesty of an Angelfish, but don’t feel quite ready for a saltwater tank, the Freshwater Angelfish might just be a perfect choice.

How to Catch Aquarium Fish With Net

By

Vedha Fish Farm

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18 October 2021

0

One of the more frustrating parts of the aquarium hobby is trying to catch or move your fish. Just try chasing around fast and slippery fish using a flimsy net with a ton of aquarium decorations in the way. After years of running an aquarium fish store, we have caught thousands and thousands of fish, so we know a thing or two about trying to wrangle the exact number, type, or color of fish for our customers. Learn about our favorite technique for netting fish that not only saves time but also saves your fish from getting stressed out.

Before You Get Started…

Not all aquarium nets are created equal, so make sure you start off with the right tool for the job. Check the net for any holes or rips that would allow the animals to slip out. Select a larger net that covers more surface area and makes it easier to capture your target. Also, consider what kind of fish you are trying to catch. Use a net with a fine mesh when handling baby fry and shrimp to prevent escape. However, if you are chasing faster or smarter fish (like African cichlids, loaches, and rainbowfish), get an aquarium net with coarse mesh or tiny holes because it decreases drag through the water and allows you to move more quickly when needed.

Aquarium Co-Op fish nets are designed with coarse mesh for reduced water drag, strong carbon fiber handles that won’t flex, and no metal parts to eliminate rusting.

The Easiest Way to Catch Fish with Aquarium Net

Now that you have the right net for the job, let’s talk about the proper technique. Remember to remain cool, calm, and collected because when you become overly agitated, your movements convey your anxiety and the fish are more likely to become stressed as well.

Try not to stand above or tower over the fish tank because some fish may view you as a predator and become frightened even before you get started. If the tank is low to the ground, get a stool that allows you to sit down at their level.
Hold the net closer to the net rim and not at the very end of the handle. This position gives you more control to make faster movements.
Set a trap so that the net is facing one of the front corners of the tank.
1. In this example, we are using the left corner, so place the net at an angle such that the right edge of the net is flush against the glass and the bottom edge of the net is tight against the ground.
2. This arrangement leaves an opening on the left edge of the net so that the fish can easily swim inside.
3. You can also utilize large pieces of fish tank decorations (instead of the tank walls) to set your trap if that’s easier.

setting the trap with Aquarium Co-Op fish net — the net on the ground and keep the right side of the net tight against the tank wall. The only way fish can enter is from the left side of the net.

Because a fish net tends to be slower than your hand, the key is to use one of your hands to “chase” the fish into the trap while the net stays mostly fixed in place.
1. Place your hand in the water (with fingers stretched open to look larger) and sweep the fish from the right to left side of the aquarium.
2. At the end of the sweep, move your hand towards the front left corner of the tank so that the fish enter the net.
3. If you have a taller aquarium, your hand also has to stay higher in the water to prevent the fish from escaping over the top edge of the net.

chase the fish into the aquarium net — While one hand holds the net handle, use the other hand to go behind the net and sweep the fish from the right to left side of the tank. Once the fish reach the left wall of the aquarium, push your hand towards the front left corner so that they naturally swim away from you and enter the net.

As soon as the fish enter the net, swing the trap shut so that the left edge of the net is also flat against the front glass.

powder blue dwarf gourami in Aquarium Co-Op fish net — Once the desired fish are in the net, close the trap so that the net rim is entirely flush against the front wall of the aquarium.

Keep the desired fish in the net while letting the unwanted fish swim out of the net.
1. Move the desired fish deeper into the net. Place your hand against the glass to cause the desired fish to swim further into the mesh. Gently shuffle the net from side to side if needed to keep them tucked away.
2. Lift the net rim slightly away from the glass (in a corner of the net that is furthest away from the desired fish) so that you can release the unwanted fish.
3. If all of the fish (including the unwanted ones) keep swimming deeper into the net, you can use your hand or finger to push or chase out the unwanted fish.

release platy fish but keep dwarf gourami inside fish net — In this case, we want to keep the powder blue dwarf gourami but release the red platy. Therefore, we slightly opened the right side of the net and used our hand to gently guide the platy out.

Lift the net out of the water, while keeping the net rim flat against the glass for as long as possible.
1. Don’t rotate the net horizontally before bringing the fish out of the water because it causes them to panic and increases the likelihood that they will jump out.
2. Instead, pull the net straight up vertically and quickly out of the water. This causes the mesh to drop down and naturally trap the fish in the net.
3. The more times you lift the net in and out of the water, the more scared the fish may become, which in turn makes them harder to catch.

raise fish net vertically out of aquarium — Slide the fish net vertically out of the water so that it remains flush against the tank wall for as long as possible. This method causes the net mesh to drop downwards, trapping the fish in the net and minimizing their chances of escape.

Get An Aquarium Net

Top 10 Easy Fish For Beginners

By

Vedha Fish Farm

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9 September 2021

0

Certain aquarium fish are classified as “beginner fish” because they are easy to care for, very colorful, and won’t break the bank. However, even experienced fish keepers often turn to them because they are such crowd pleasers and don’t take as much attention as more high-maintenance species. After years of helping customers in our local fish store, these are our top 10 beginner fish we find ourselves recommending over and over again.

1. Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)

This striking starter fish is known for its solid white and black horizontal stripes with a red “eyebrow” above its pupil. Because of its mostly neutral colors, we find that the black streak matches well with fish of many other colors. They grow to about 1.5 inches (4 cm) in length and get slightly bigger than regular neon tetras (Paracheirodon innesi). As a nice schooling fish, they do best in a group of 6-12 of their own species, but luckily they are relatively inexpensive at $2-3 each. Black neon tetras are very forgiving when it comes to beginner mistakes and can withstand a wide variety of temperatures and water parameters. Their robustness and even-keeled nature can help you gain more confidence in the early stages of your fish keeping hobby.

2. Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii)

This miniature “eel” is a popular oddball fish because of its noodle-like body and alternating yellow and black bands. The 4-inch (10 cm) bottom dweller likes to scavenge for food on the ground and hide behind aquarium decorations, driftwood, and aquarium plants. To encourage them to come out in the open, get a posse of at least 3-6 kuhli loaches and drop their meals near the front of the fish tank. They love to eat frozen bloodworms, freeze-dried tubifex worms, and small sinking pellets.

3. Bristlenose Plecostomus (Ancistrus sp.)

Many beginners end up with a plecostomus catfish or “suckerfish” because they look cool and like to hang onto the glass or bottom of the tank. However, some plecos can grow extremely large, so consider choosing a bristlenose pleco that stays relatively small and peaceful. Their common name comes from the fact that males get little bristles on their face, but females usually do not. They are one of our most recommended algae eaters because they do such a great job of cleaning up the aquarium, but make sure you feed them a good quality protein food, Repashy gel food, and vegetables like blanched zucchini slices and canned green beans. For more details on how to care for plecostomus.

4. Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)

Harlequin rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha) in planted tank

Everyone always has harlequin rasboras on their list of beginner fish because of their stunning appearance, hardiness, and low cost (usually under $4). Nothing beats a beautiful school of 2-inch-long (5 cm) orange rasboras with a solid black triangle patch on their bodies. You need at least six or more of the same species for them to feel the happiest in their environment. In general, schooling fish need social time with their own kind to put on their best coloration, behave correctly, and give you the most longevity and enjoyment out of your purchase.

5. Albino Cory Catfish (Corydoras aeneus)

Corydoras catfish are a fish tank favorite because of their happy-go-lucky personalities and ability to keep the floor clean of crumbs. There are over 100 species in the Corydoras genus, but we like albino corys for beginners because of their toughness, inexpensive price, and shiny pink scales that stand out in a planted aquarium. If you don’t prefer pink, you can also go with the bronze cory, which is the same species in a dark greenish-brown color. This schooling bottom dweller gets up to 2.8 inches (7 cm) and loves gobbling up frozen bloodworms, Repashy gel food, and small sinking pellets. One of their adorable behaviors is their habit of “blinking” or flicking their eyes downward, so see if you can catch them in the act.

6. Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya)

You may have heard that barbs are aggressive, but luckily cherry barbs aren’t any more aggressive than your average tetra or rasbora. Males have a deep red coloration, whereas the females are more tannish-red. While you may be tempted to get only males for your aquarium, try to buy at least 1-2 females for every male because the boys show off their best coloration when they have girls to impress. If you feed them high quality foods like krill flakes, freeze-dried foods, and frozen foods, they are very easy to breed and constantly lay eggs. The adults do predate on their offspring though, so plant a forest of dense aquarium plants like water sprite and wisteria for the baby fry to hide amongst.

7. Red Eye Tetra (Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae)

If you accidentally bought a bigger, semi-aggressive fish like a bala shark or rainbow shark, pair them with a larger, more full-bodied schooling fish. Red eye tetras (or monk tetras) grow to approximately 2.75 inches (7 cm) in size and are tolerant of a wide range of water parameters. Their silvery body, red eye, and black tail contrast well with a background of green plants or a community of other colorful fish. Get six or more in a group to swim in the middle of your aquarium, and feed them a varied selection of fish foods, like flakes, freeze-dried bloodworms, and Vibra Bites.

8. White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes)

There are several types of white cloud minnows (including those sold as feeder fish), but we recommend getting regular white cloud mountain minnows as the most bulletproof variety. They are very cheap, only grow to 1.5 inches (4 cm), and don’t need an aquarium heater because they live in cooler temperatures. In fact, many people keep them outside in outdoor mini ponds or tubs during the summer season (or year-round, depending on your climate). Just make sure the water temperature doesn’t get above 80°F (27°C) or else they can become prone to disease. Get this underrated fish because you’re going to love watching the males spar with each other, flaring out their fins like little peacocks.

9. Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus)

The Siamese algae eater (or SAE) is another great cleaner fish with a downturned mouth that’s ideal for consuming algae and leftover fish food in the tank. It’s a bigger fish that grows to about 6 inches (15 cm) in length and kind of looks like a little shark. Technically, they are a schooling fish, but because they can be semi-aggressive in nature, we find that they do best when you have only one SAE by itself or three or more to keep each other in check. We prefer the SAE over the Chinese algae eater (CAE) because the latter gets even larger and more hostile. Some people say that SAEs are better at eating algae when they are younger, but we find that is because the adult SAEs are big enough to get the lion’s share during mealtimes. To get older SAEs interested in eating algae again, try cutting back on the food to whet their appetites.

10. Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

Despite the popularity of livebearers (or fish that bear live young) like guppies and mollies, we don’t always advise them for beginners because they have specific water parameters that need to be met. Plus, their beautiful colors are sometimes the result of heavy inbreeding, which can lead to health issues. However, Endler’s livebearers are a good choice because their natural coloration already looks amazing and therefore not as much linebreeding has been needed to get spectacular patterns. We’ve found them to be quite adaptable to pH of 6.5 and higher and temperatures between 68-82°F (20-28°C). They do prefer some minerals in their water, so if you find your tap water has low GH (general hardness), try adding some Wonder Shell or Seachem Equilibrium. If you’re searching for a budget-friendly fish that looks incredible and makes more babies for free, you can’t go wrong with Endler’s livebearers.

How to Culture Vinegar Eels

By

Vedha Fish Farm

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7 August 2021

0

Are you getting into fish breeding but need a way to feed teeny-tiny fry that are too small to eat regular fry food? Try vinegar eels! This live food is very easy to culture and is perfect for raising babies until they’re big enough to eat baby brine shrimp.

What Are Vinegar Eels?

Vinegar eels are harmless, white roundworms or nematodes that feed on the microorganisms commonly found in vinegar and fermented liquids. Growing up to 50 microns in diameter and 1 to 2 mm in length, they are one of the smallest and easiest live foods to culture for baby fish. Breeders commonly feed them to newborn betta fish, killifish, rainbowfish, and other fry that require miniscule foods even smaller than baby brine shrimp (which hatch out at 450 microns in size).

Vinegar eels have many other advantages that make them ideal for feeding fish fry. Unlike banana worms and other micro worms, they can survive for several days in fresh water, they swim around in the water column instead of sinking straight to the bottom, and their wiggling motions entice babies to eat more and grow faster. Vinegar eels aren’t necessarily as nutritious as baby brine shrimp (which are born with rich yolk sacs), but they’re an excellent food to feed until the fry have grown large enough to eat baby brine shrimp.

How Do You Start A Vinegar Eel Culture?

Gather the following materials:

1 container with a long neck (like a wine bottle)
1 backup container (like a 2-liter bottle or 1-gallon jug)
Apple cider vinegar (enough to fill half of each container)
1 apple
Dechlorinated tap water
Filter floss or polyester fiber fill (stuffing for pillows and stuffed animals)
Paper towels
Rubber bands
Pipette
Optional: funnel

Cut the apple into thin slices that can fit through the container openings, and then put four to eight slices in each container.

Divide the vinegar eel starter culture into each container.
Fill the rest of the containers with 50% vinegar and 50% dechlorinated tap water, such that the total liquid amount reaches the base of the bottle’s neck. (Leave a little space at the top of the containers for air.)

Cover the container openings with a sheet of paper towel, fastened with a rubber band. This allows the vinegar eels to breathe while preventing pests from entering. Store the containers at room temperature in a cabinet or on a shelf that does not get direct sunlight.

Use paper towel to cover vinegar eel culture

The wine bottle is your primary culture that can be used for easy harvesting of vinegar eels. The larger container is your backup culture in case anything happens to the wine bottle. Backup cultures can be left alone for a year or two without any additional feedings. The population may decline a little, but you should still have enough vinegar eels to start a new culture if needed.

How Do I Harvest Vinegar Eels To Feed My Fish?

Leave the wine bottle alone for two to four weeks so that the vinegar eel population grows large enough for you to start feeding the fry.
When you’re ready to harvest, stuff a wad of filter floss into the base of the neck so that part of the floss is soaking in the vinegar.

Gently pour a little dechlorinated tap water into the neck of the bottle.

Pour dechlorinated water into vinegar eel culture

Wait 8 to 24 hours later, and the vinegar eels will travel through the filter floss into the fresh water to get oxygen.

Vinegar eels swimming up wine bottle neck

Use a pipette to remove some of the vinegar eels and feed them to your fish fry.

You can use this method to feed for several days in a row, maybe up to a week, but eventually the culture will start to deplete. Therefore, if you have lots of fish babies, prepare several bottles of vinegar eel cultures so that you can rotate between them, giving each bottle four to five days between feedings so that the culture has time to repopulate.

How Do I Maintain The Vinegar Eel Culture?

Around the six-month mark, the apple pieces eventually break down, the nutrients are used up, and you may notice the culture is much cloudier than usual. That means it’s time to start a new culture. Get a new container, and pour in some of the old culture. Fill the rest of the new container with apple slices and a fresh mixture of 50% apple cider vinegar and 50% dechlorinated water. In two to four weeks, your new culture should be ready for harvesting again.

How to Make Your Betta Fish Happy

By

Vedha Fish Farm

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7 July 2021

0

Betta Fish are amazing creatures with beautiful finnage and spirited personalities, but they often lead very sedentary lives in way-too-tiny bowls. If you’ve already seen our betta fish tank setup guide and upsized your betta’s aquarium with the necessary equipment, you may be wondering what else you can do to keep your pet fish entertained. In the wild, Betta splendens spends its time hunting for food, defending its territory, breeding the next generation of offspring, and of course resting. Based on these activities, let’s discuss 5 creative enrichment ideas to mentally and physically stimulate your betta fish and give it the best life possible.

1. TOYS AND DECORATIONS FOR BETTA FISH

Want to provide an underwater jungle gym for your betta to explore? Find some fish tank ornaments and interesting caves that he can swim around or dive inside. Just make sure the decorations have no sharp edges and all the holes are big enough for your betta fish to fit through without getting stuck. Since bettas like to swim near the surface to take the occasional gulp of air, we like the floating betta log. This natural-looking decor is like a large tunnel for your betta to easily swim through, take a peaceful nap, or even build a bubble nest inside. There is also another opening on the side for you to feed fish foods through to prevent his meal from being stolen by other fish or sinking too quickly into the gravel.

A floating betta log is an excellent place for exploring, resting, eating, and making bubble nests.

2. BETTA FISH EXERCISE MIRROR

Betta fish are also known as “Siamese fighting fish” because they will fiercely defend their home turf against others of their own species. While we don’t recommend putting two bettas together, you can take advantage of this protective instinct and give your betta a nice workout by using a floating betta exercise mirror for a few minutes each day. Upon seeing their own reflection, most bettas react by flaring their gills, stretching out their fins, and making their bodies look as big and tough as possible. After a short period of watching him parade back and forth in front of the “intruder,” remove the mirror and perhaps give him a little treat for his efforts.

A few minutes with a mirror each day can offer some much-needed exercise for your betta fish.

3. LIVE FISH FOOD

Because betta fish are hunters and not ambush predators, they spend a good amount of time searching for insect larva, small crustaceans, and other tiny aquatic animals to eat. While floating betta pellets are a good staple for daily feedings, there is usually not a lot of challenge in “catching” them since slow water current is recommended for their aquariums. Get your betta to apply her hunting skills by offering a variety of live foods. You can buy blackworms from local fish stores, hatch your own baby brine shrimp, or maintain cultures of daphnia and microworms at home. When bettas must find their next meal, it activates their patrolling, pursuing, and pouncing abilities and rewards them with a full belly. If live fish foods are not possible for you to obtain, try using a worm feeder cone instead. Place a cube of frozen bloodworms or other fish food inside, and watch as your betta fish figures out how to get the tasty morsels out. In a community tank, the cone also helps to slow down the more aggressive fish from gobbling all the food and give everyone a chance to eat.

Watch our You Tube Video : Betta Food

If you don’t access to live fish foods, a worm feeder cone can provide an entertaining way for your betta fish to get its food.

4. AQUARIUM PLANTS

Betta splendens are originally found in shallow waters with tons of dense vegetation, so why not give your little buddy a lush, green forest to call home? Of course he’ll be happy with just about any live aquatic plant, but our favorites include large anubias plants to rest on like a leafy hammock or a Christmas moss bridge to shelter beneath at night. Tall background plants and floating plants at the water surface are also much appreciated because they provide interesting structures to swim in between and build bubble nests amongst. If you’re not ready to take care of live plants, you can also try catappa or Indian almond leaves. Not only do they tint the water with tannins that have mild antibiotic and antifungal properties, but they also act as fallen foliage for your betta to investigate.

For more recommendations, read our article on the top 10 betta fish plants for your aquarium.

Buy our Betta care for your Betta Fish : Betta Care

Not only are live aquarium plants beautiful, but they also help to purify the water that your betta lives in.

5. TANK MATES FOR BETTA FISH

If you have a 10-gallon or larger tank with plenty of hiding spots, you may be able to add some peaceful roommates to your betta aquarium. Other animals in the fish tank provide exciting activity to watch, social hierarchies to establish, and rivals to outcompete during mealtimes. Because of the betta fish’s territorial temperament towards its own kind, avoid other fish with colorful and flowy fins. Plus, steer clear of nippy animals that may want to take a chunk out of your betta. Schooling nano fish are often preferred because then your betta has a hard time targeting any one individual. For specific suggestions, learn about the 5 best tank mates for betta fish.

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Do My Aquarium Plants Need More Potassium?

How Often Should I add Potassium to My Aquarium?

1. Pygmy Corydoras – The Tiny Bottom Dwellers

2. Clown Killifish – The Rocket-Like Swimmers

3. Celestial Pearl Danio (Galaxy Rasbora) – A Timeless Classic

4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows – The Hardy Beauties

5. Chili Rasbora – Tiny Fish with Fiery Colors

6. Neon Green Tetra – A Unique Twist on a Classic

7. Fancy Guppies & Endlers – A Rainbow of Options

8. Sparkling Gourami – The Subtle Stunner

9. Kuhli Loach – The Playful “Danger Noodle”

10. Apistogramma (Dwarf Cichlids) – Small But Mighty

11. Shell-Dwelling Cichlids (Neolamprologus Multifasciatus) – The Burrowing Engineers

12. Red Neon Rainbowfish – A Burst of Color

Final Thoughts

Reusable Filter Media

What is Pre FIlter Sponge

Keep an Air Stone in your Filter

Add Carbon to a Sponge Filter

Keeping More Filtration is not good

Black Tetra

Cardinal Tetra

Neon Tetra Fish

Green Neon Tetra

Flame Tetra

Blue Tetra

Ruby Tetra

Rainbow Tetra

Ember Tetra

Lemon Tetra

Diamond Tetra

Emperor Tetra

Congo Tetra

Bloodfin Tetra

Rummy Nose Tetra

Buenos Aires Tetra

Penguin Tetra

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Tank Setup

What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

How Many Can Be Kept Per Gallon?

Caring for Tetras

Diet & Feeding

Typical Behavior

Types and Appearance

Habitat and Tank Conditions

Tank Setup

What Size Tank Do Freshwater Angelfish Need?

Tank Mates

Keeping Freshwater Angelfish Together

Care

Diet

Breeding

Are Freshwater Angelfish Suitable For Your Aquarium?

Before You Get Started…

The Easiest Way to Catch Fish with Aquarium Net

1. Black Neon Tetra (Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi)

2. Kuhli Loach (Pangio kuhlii)

3. Bristlenose Plecostomus (Ancistrus sp.)

4. Harlequin Rasbora (Trigonostigma heteromorpha)

5. Albino Cory Catfish (Corydoras aeneus)

6. Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya)

7. Red Eye Tetra (Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae)

8. White Cloud Mountain Minnow (Tanichthys albonubes)

9. Siamese Algae Eater (Crossocheilus oblongus)

10. Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei)

What Are Vinegar Eels?

How Do You Start A Vinegar Eel Culture?

How Do I Harvest Vinegar Eels To Feed My Fish?

How Do I Maintain The Vinegar Eel Culture?

1. TOYS AND DECORATIONS FOR BETTA FISH

2. BETTA FISH EXERCISE MIRROR

3. LIVE FISH FOOD

4. AQUARIUM PLANTS

5. TANK MATES FOR BETTA FISH

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