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Top 5 Peaceful Gouramis for a Community Tank

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Gouramis are a unique freshwater fish, often known for their flat, oval-shaped bodies and whisker-like feeler fins. As a type of anabantoid or labyrinth fish, they have a special labyrinth organ that acts like rudimentary air, allowing them to gulp oxygen from the surface and create bubble nests for breeding. Gouramis sometimes get a bad reputation for being ornery, so we found our top 5 peaceful gouramis that play nice with other community fish.

1. Female Powder Blue Gourami

Dwarf gouramis (Trichogaster lalius) are one of the most popular gouramis you see at pet stores. Despite their small size, male can be quite feisty and may end up bullying their fellow tank mates. Females are much calmer by nature, but most of them are duller in color. Luckily, female powder blue gouramis look just as stunning as their male counterparts without the attitude problems. You can keep this 3-inch (7.5 cm) fish by herself or in a group of girls. To contrast with their beautiful blue scales, try adding some orange schooling fish like lambchop rasboras or ember tetras. As with most smaller gouramis, they will eat just about anything a betta fish does, such as floating betta pellets, insect-based granules, and more.

Blue Gourami 1

Female gouramis tend to have a rounded tip on their dorsal fin and a larger body size compared to males.

2. Pearl Gourami

Hailing from southeast Asia, Trichopodus leerii is the largest species on our list that grows up to 5 inches (13 cm) in length. Because of their bigger size, you can keep one in a 29-gallon tank or a group of them in a 55- or 75-gallon aquarium. Their light brown body is covered in white dots or “pearls” with a black horizontal line running down the side, and males display a bright red-orange throat and belly during courtship. Compared to other gouramis, they have especially long and thin modified ventral fins that act like whiskers to help them explore their environment. Pearl gouramis are not picky eaters and will readily consume an omnivore diet of freeze-dried foods, Hikari Vibra Bites, and floating pellets.

pearl gourami

Pearl gouramis are instantly recognizable by their spotted pearls and long ventral fins.

3. Chocolate Gourami

Looking for a rarer species to add to your collection? Sphaerichthys osphromenoides is a 2.5-inch (6 cm) gourami with a dark chocolate brown body that’s shaped like a leaf and overlaid with vertical, golden stripes. Because the fish are usually wild-caught, they can be picky eaters initially that only take live and frozen foods, but with enough patience, hobbyists have successfully converted them to eating crushed flakes and micro pellets. In Indonesia and the surrounding regions, they come from waters with low pH, low GH (general hardness), and gentle flow. To truly appreciate these peaceful, laidback gouramis, add lots of live aquarium plants and shaded places to hide so that they feel comfortable in their new surroundings.

chocolate gourami

Chocolate gouramis can be a little delicate when you first buy them, so pamper them with a stress-free environment to increase their health and immunity.

4. Sparkling Gourami

Coming in at 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, Trichopsis pumila (also known as the pygmy gourami or dwarf croaking gourami) is the smallest species on our list. They are one of the few fish that can make an audible sound that comes from twitching their modified pectoral fins and can be heard “croaking” during sparring or courtship. Sparkling gouramis have bright blue eyes and a body with brown, dotted striping and iridescent blue spangling. Keep these miniature gouramis by themselves, in pairs, or in a small group with other peaceful, nano fish. You can feed them anything small enough to fit in their mouths, like daphnia, baby brine shrimp, and fine granules.

sparkling gourami or dwarf croaking gourami

Sparkling gouramis are excellent micropredators that will happily eat up all the seed shrimp, detritus worms, and even hydra in your fish tank.

5. Honey Gourami

The super peaceful Trichogaster chuna is native to India and Bangladesh, and several color variants have been produced, such as wild type, yellow-gold, and red. As with most gouramis, the males tend to be more colorful than the females. Both sexes are equally good-natured and can live as a single, pair, or group with similarly sized community fish. They really stand out in a lushy planted aquarium with schooling fish of a different color, like green neon tetras. Honey gouramis are also fun and easy to breed, where the male builds a bubble nest to protect the fertilized eggs until they hatch.

honey gourami

Honey gouramis are mostly solid-colored, but males often develop a dark blue-black throat and abdomen during breeding periods.

Honorable Mention: Paradise Fish

Macropodus opercularis is a famous gourami from East Asia and is historically labeled as one of the first tropical freshwater fish kept in a home aquarium (besides pond fish like carp and goldfish). It can grow to 2.5-3 inches (6-8 cm) long and comes in normal, albino, and solid blue versions. The “normal” type features a forked tail and striking blue and red-orange vertical stripes. Paradise fish are extremely hardy and can live in a temperature range from 61-80°F (16-27°C), which means you can keep them in an unheated aquarium of 20 gallons or larger.

paradise fish or paradise gourami

Paradise fish have several nicknames, including “paradise gourami” and “Chinese fighting fish.”

The reason why this beautiful fish gets an honorable mention is because they are considered semi-aggressive like betta fish, where the males like to squabble over territory. However, like betta fish, they can be kept in a community tank if given the right tank mates. Avoid adding other anabantoids (e.g., bettas and other gouramis), slow-moving fish, or fish with long fins. Instead, we recommend faster, larger schooling fish like giant danios and barbs, as well as bottom dwellers like catfish and loaches. If you are interested in a cheap, centerpiece fish with a bold personality, you have to try the paradise gourami.

How to Quarantine Fish the Easy Way

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Many beginners may not know this, but one of the easiest ways to stop your fish from getting sick is to set up a quarantine tank. This separate aquarium is used to temporarily hold newly purchased fish or ailing animals that need a quiet environment to heal. By putting them in isolation, it allows you to closely observe their health, administer any treatments, and prevent illnesses from spreading. Once they are completely healthy and disease-free, you can safely add them to your main display tank without infecting the existing fish.

Materials for the Hospital Tank

  • Clear plastic tub or aquarium with a lid
  • Aquarium filter with low flow, like a sponge filter
  • Aquarium heater and thermometer
  • Aquarium decorations and hides
  • Water conditioner
  • Trio of quarantine medications (includes Mardel Maracyn, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, and Fritz ParaCleanse)

How to Set Up a Quarantine Fish Tank

  1. To avoid cross contamination, place the quarantine tank in a different room away from your main display tanks if possible. (Other best practices include using a separate set of nets and siphons for the quarantine setup and washing your hands after each time you touch the quarantine fish tank.)
  2. If you are using a plastic tub, prepare the lid by drilling some holes for air flow and cutting a small rectangle on the side for power cables and airline tubing to pass through. Another optional step is to mark up the side of the tub with 1-gallon measurement lines to help make water changes and medicine dosing easier.

Step 2 - holes in quarantine tub lid

A clear plastic container can be used as a cheap quarantine setup. Cut or drill some holes in the lid to allow for easy equipment installation and better air flow.

  1. Fill the hospital tank with water and add water conditioner.
  2. Install the aquarium filter and heater, and add fish tank ornaments to give the animals some shelter. There is no need to use gravel or other substrate because a bare bottom setup allows you to easily clean the hospital tank and examine the fish’s waste if needed.

Step 4 - add fish tank decorations to hospital tank

Use a bare bottom tank with aquarium decorations to provide plenty of cover. Sick fish often want to hide, so the extra shelters will make them feel more comfortable.

  1. Add the fish, observe their physical appearance and behavior, and treat with medication if needed. Remove any chemical filtration (like activated carbon) and UV sterilizers before adding medicines.
    1. If your fish are already sick and you can identify the disease, treat the fish with the specific medication for that illness and follow the manufacturer’s instructions on the packaging. If you are not sure which disease they have, follow the instructions in this article.
    2. If you purchased fish from a local fish store or breeder that you trust to have healthy animals, feed and observe the fish for a couple days. If you detect an illness, see Step 5a above. If you do not see any symptoms, consider proactively treating them with ParaCleanse (as per the manufacturer’s instructions) to clear out any remaining internal parasites that are harder to spot.
    3. If you bought new fish from an online retailer, pet store chain, or untested source, proactively treat them with the quarantine medication trio. These medicines contain a blend of antibiotic, antifungal, and anti-parasitic active ingredients that are safe for scaleless fish, fry, shrimp, snails, live plants, and beneficial bacteria. Dose 1 packet of Maracyn, 1 packet of ParaCleanse, and 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of Ich-X for every 10 gallons of water. Let the medication soak in the water for 7 days without feeding the fish.

description of quarantine med trio from Aquarium Co-Op

Description of quarantine medication trio

  1. After treatment is completed, do regular water changes each week to gradually remove the medications over time. Help the fish to build up their immune systems by feeding high quality fish food like frozen foods, which are nutritionally dense and easy to clean up.
  2. We recommend quarantining most new fish for 4-6 weeks since the last disease symptom or death was seen. If you want to be extra safe, consider adding two healthy fish from your main display tank to the fish hospital tank and see if they get sick. If everyone remains well, you can finally release the isolated fish from quarantine.
  3. Once quarantine is done, clean the hospital tank setup and store everything dry. If you plan on purchasing more fish in the near future, just leave everything running so that it will be ready for the next batch.

Frequently Asked Questions about Fish Quarantine

How big does a quarantine tank need to be? Since it is only a temporary setup, a quarantine tank does not need to be as big as the recommended size for the fish to permanently live in. A hospital tank with less water volume also allows you to use less medication when treating the fish.

How do you keep a quarantine tank cycled? The easiest way is to run a spare sponge filter (or extra filter media in a hang-on-back filter) in one of your display aquariums. Whenever you need to quarantine some fish, move that extra sponge filter or filter media to the hospital tank so it will bring over lots of beneficial bacteria to help purify the water. After the quarantine period is complete, put the sponge filter or filter media back in your main tank. To find out what is cycling and how to cycle an aquarium,

use of two sponge filters to keep quarantine tank cycled

Run an extra sponge filter or filter media in an established tank, and then use it to bring beneficial bacteria to the hospital tank when needed.

Can I quarantine fish in a bucket? Yes, any clean, food-safe container that is large enough will work in an emergency. However, we recommend using a container with clear sides so that you can easily view the fish from all angles to see if their health is improving or worsening.

Should you quarantine shrimp and snails? Dwarf shrimp can sometimes carry diseases, especially if purchased directly from importers, so if you are bringing in a batch to add to an existing colony, consider putting them in quarantine first to observe their condition. In our experience, snails rarely seem to carry illnesses, so we usually skip the quarantine step and add them directly to our aquariums.

Do I have to quarantine my first fish? If you are setting up your first tank, you can theoretically add new fish directly into the aquarium without setting up a separate quarantine tank since there are no existing animals to protect. One situation where you might want to use a separate hospital fish tank is if your aquarium is very large and the fish are small enough to go in a scaled-down quarantine setup. It will cost less money to dose medication in a smaller volume of water rather than an entire display tank.

Another instance would be if your main aquarium is full of live plants or snails. In cases where the quarantine med trio does not seem to be effective, we often turn to aquarium salt as a second line of defense. Since plants and snails generally do not like high concentrations of salt, it would be best to move your fish to another container for treatment.

What should I use to treat fish if I can’t buy the quarantine med trio? We recommend using aquarium salt – a cheap and widely available “medicine” that is quite effective for broad-spectrum treatment of bacteria, fungus, and external parasites. However, it is not safe for aquatic plants, snails, and certain fish like anchor catfish. For more information, follow the dosage instructions in our aquarium salt article.

Betta Fish Common Diseases

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Betta fish will be prone to illnesses if the water quality is compromised. Common betta diseases include:

Constipation

An overfed betta is prone to get constipated. Dried foods can also trigger constipation because they are not easily digested. The affected betta will have a swollen stomach, refuse to eat, and show inactivity.

You will also not see any feces at the tank’s bottom. You can relive the fish by fasting them or feeding them one frozen pea.

Ich

Ich is caused by the parasite ichthyopthirius, which naturally occurs in aquariums. The parasite will be harmful to a fish with reduced immunity. It materializes as white spots on the betta’s body.

Other symptoms include clamped fins and inactivity. The betta will try to dislodge the parasites by rubbing on decorations. Ich is addressed by treatments and raising the temperature.

Tail and Fin Rot

These diseases occur in dirty water, and they target the fin and tail of your pet. The fin or tail tissue will disintegrate little by little, and the infection will progress to the betta’s body if left unchecked. If treated early, the tissue will regrow gradually.

Mouth Fungus

Mouth fungus will typically affect a stressed fish, and your betta will be susceptible if the water quality is inappropriate or if they are getting a poor diet.

Symptoms include a cotton-like growth around the pet’s mouth as well as white spots on its fins and mouth. The fins will become frayed as the infection advances.

Treatment will involve cleaning the tank and adding copper sulfate or an antibiotic.

Dropsy

Your betta will be vulnerable to contracting dropsy if you feed it contaminated live food. The fish will have raised scales due to the accumulation of fluid under the scales.

The bacteria is quite contagious, and it will eventually cause kidney failure.

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish

In addition to your aquarium setup, you will need a breeding tank for your betta pair. You can also invest in another tank for the fry.

Other aquarists will divide their tanks to separate the males and females.

The ideal age to breed bettas is when they are four months to one year. Source a breeding pair from a reputable breeder for the best genetics in your fry.

In the wild, female bettas pick the males they desire for mating. They look at a male’s coloration, energy levels, and the health of the fins. Once you get a suitable male, let him settle in the tank for at least two months and feed him live food to increase his carotenoid levels.

The breeding tank should be away from distractions, and it should be equipped with a filter, heater, moss, air pump, and Styrofoam cup.

The males and females will breed under optimum conditions, and the female will evaluate the bubble nest the male builds to ensure it is up to her standards. The males take care of the eggs and the fry, and you can remove them once the fry starts to swim by themselves.

Feeding Your Betta Fish

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Bettas are naturally carnivores, and they should be sustained with a protein-rich diet.

You will need to source live and frozen food for betta fish. Be careful with live foods since they can harbor bacteria and other contaminants.

Bettas will eat frozen or live mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, bloodworms, wingless fruit flies, and Mysis shrimp.

Many betta-keepers give pellets to their pets, primarily because they are effective, available, and affordable. The ideal pellets for bettas will have more high-quality ingredients than fillers like wheat and corn. Pellets will typically have proteins, fats, fiber, moisture in varying quantities.

Your bettas will also eat freeze-dried food, in addition to fish flakes.

When it comes to feeding frequency, you should not feed your pets more than twice every day.

Overfeeding is a common problem with bettas, since it may appear like your fish is always hungry for more. Bettas have short digestive tracts, and their stomachs are no larger than their eyes.

Only give the pet food they will eat in two minutes. Some aquarists will even fast their bettas for 24 hours after about two weeks. This fasting period will decrease the chances of constipation for the fish.

Betta Fish Tank Mates

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Betta fish are reputed as territorial and bad tank mates. The feistiness is, however, mostly targeted to other bettas, rather than other fish species.

In the wild, male bettas engage in territorial disputes, and less-dominant males are often forced to flee. Male bettas can cause injury and even death to each other, which is why you should keep them apart.

Avoid keeping bettas with species that are larger or those with similar fins. Additionally, do not keep bettas with fin nippers like red tail sharks or angelfish.

Some of the ideal betta tank mates are:

Mystery Snail

These peaceful aquatic species will keep your tank clean by eating algae and debris. The snail will quickly retreat to its protective shell if the bettas become aggressive.

The mystery snail does not reproduce asexually, which will help to keep its numbers in check.

Tetras

Neon Tetra

Neon Tetra

Many tetras will make good tank mates for your bettas. Small species like the ember and neon tetras will out-swim your betta if it gets aggressive.

Most tetras are shoaling fish, and they will add color to your tank. Some ideal tetras include the diamond tetra, black neon tetra, silvertip tetra, cardinal tetra, and the rummy-nose tetra.

Corys

The Pygmy Corydoras grows to about an inch in length, and it enjoys similar water parameters as the betta fish.

It prefers to roam at the bottom of the tank and will stay away from the upper layers where the betta fish stays.

The cory catfish grows to 1.0 to 2.5 inches, and it will live peacefully with your bettas. Keep the cory catfish in schools of at least four.

Other cory species to consider include the albino cory and the panda cory.

Harlequin Rasbora

Harlequin Rasboras

Harlequin Rasboras

If you have a 10-gallon tank or more, consider keeping the harlequin rasbora. It is a shoaling fish that grows to 1.5 inches in length.

This fish co-exists with the betta in the wild, making it a fit tankmate.

African Dwarf Frogs

African dwarf frogs will tolerate similar conditions to those of your bettas. They are also hardy, and they reach 2.5 inches in length.

The fish are quite active, and you will mostly observe them coming to the surface for air. It also sheds and eats its skin every one to two weeks.

Kuhli Loach

Kuhli Loach

Kuhli Loach

The Kuhli loach is active in the evening and at night. It will, therefore, not run into the betta, minimizing the risk for any aggression on the betta’s part.

Other tankmates to consider are the clown plecos, ghost shrimp, nerite snail, and the galaxy rasbora.

Betta Fish Guide – Care, Feeding, Requirements, Breeding & Tank Mates

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Bettas are a staple in many aquariums, mainly because of their brilliant coloring. It is called the Siamese fighting fish and has its natural habitats in the rice paddies of Asia.

Bettas are categorized as a labyrinth fish since they have a lung-like organ that absorbs oxygen from the air.

They can, therefore, survive for a short time outside water, and in fishbowls without water flow for oxygen.Betta Fish Care

Betta Fish Care

Bettas are also known to be aggressive. Males will conflict over territories, while even males and females cannot be kept together.

Betta Fish Aquarium Requirements

Your bettas will need the most conducive environment to be healthy. Their requirements include:

Tank Size for Betta Fish

Most beginner aquarists will contain bettas in small spaces like bowls and vases. Bettas, however, need swimming spaces as much as other fish species, and anything under five gallons will be constrictive.

Wild bettas are used to swimming around the extensive rice paddies of their natural habitats. Do not keep them in tiny tanks, especially because waste will quickly pile up.

Bigger tanks have a lot of benefits than small setups. Bettas are sensitive to ammonia levels, which can easily spike in a small tank. Smaller tanks also require frequent changes, which means setting aside more time for maintenance.

Large tanks will also tame your betta’s aggression. Bettas will rarely get aggressive if they have a lot of territory to themselves, and you can even couple them up with a semi-aggressive species in a community tank.

Bettas typically reach 2.5 inches in length, and a small tank will prevent them from growing into their full length.

If you have a large tank, provide densely planted regions to mimic the betta’s natural habitat. Your betta can get stressed in a large tank without any decorations or plants.

Bettas will thus be happy in tanks from five gallons and above.

Best Plants and Decorations for Bettas

Plants & Decoration for Betta Fish

Plants & Decoration for Betta Fish

Bettas love live plants since they provide hiding spots. There are a lot of plant species you can include in your betta tank, including Amazon Sword and Anubias Nana.

The java fern thrives in similar water parameters as bettas, and it will be a great addition to your tank. The plant will prosper in low light, although you should avoid burying the rhizome under the substrate. The java fern will easily float around, but you can tie it to a rock to keep it in place.

Another suitable plant for a betta tank is the java moss, which is quite hardy and will grow in any water parameters. You only have to maintain temperatures between 78 to 80 °F. The java moss grows incredibly fast, and you will need to trim it constantly.

The Amazon frogbit’s leaves will provide a floating lily pad for your pets. Ensure that the leaves do not overrun the water’s surface because your betta also needs to go to the surface. Bettas like equal amounts of light and shade and the Amazon frogbit can provide adequate cover.

Hornwort is popularly used in betta tanks because it is hardy and versatile. You can either leave it to float in the aquarium or anchor it in the substrate. The plant also removes nitrates and other toxins. Its bristles can, however, scatter across the water, which means you will have to spend time cleaning.

Other plants to include in a betta setup include Wisteria, Anacharis, Hygrophila, and Water Sprite.

You can also source for fake plants with the benefit of not having to maintain them. Opt for the silk types to reduce the chances of your bettas hurting themselves from the sharp parts in plastic plants.

Most betta tanks also have driftwood. In addition to having a place to anchor other plants, the driftwood can also become a focal point in your aquarium. It also provides hiding spots for the fish.

Driftwood should be used with care as it lowers the PH of water. Source it from a seller instead of collecting it, and ensure you wash it carefully.

You can also add rocks to your tank, provided they are rated as suitable for aquariums. When using decorations with betta fish, avoid anything with sharp edges and metal or glass items.

Substrate for Betta Aquarium

The natural habitats of bettas include rice paddies, marshes, and slow-moving drainages. These areas are characterized by silt, mud, dense vegetation, and soil. These substrates cannot be replicated in an aquarium, especially because the soil and silt will leave the tank murky.

The substrate choice will depend on whether you are going to use live or fake plants in your setup. Live plants will need nutrients from the substrate, which is why those with a sand or gravel top are popular. Substrates also provide anchorage for live plants.

If you are using fake plants, you will have more variety when it comes to substrates. These include rock and marble.

Gravel is quite popular with betta tanks. It comes in varied colors and is easily available in pet stores. It is also easy to clean gravel since waste does not accumulate as deeply as in other substrates. Plants will grow easily in gravel since it is not very compact. Gravel can, however, be sharp and harm your betta.

Sand is less harmful to your bettas as it has no sharp edges. It is always easy to clean since waste sits on its surface.

Filtration System for Betta Fish

Best Small Aquarium Filter for Betta Fish

A filter will maintain the quality of your betta tank and promote the health of the pets. Bettas are used to still waters, and the filter you select should not produce strong currents.

Sponge filters typically have low currents, although they are not very powerful filter. A hang on the back filter will be more effective, provided you get a model with adjustable flow rates. While canister filters are known to be very powerful, they can provide stressful currents for your bettas.

Whatever filtration system you use, ensure it has a low output rate, and it is easy to use.

Water Parameters

Bettas can be easy to rear if the appropriate water parameters are met, including:

Best Temperature for Betta Fish

The most suitable temperature range for bettas is 78 to 80 °F. The temperature should not drop below 74 °F, and you will need a thermometer and heater to control the range.

Although your bettas will survive in the range 72 to 82 °F, they will be prone to many diseases like the Fur Coat Syndrome bacteria.

Cold temperatures will make bettas lethargic due to slow metabolism, while hot temperatures will boost their metabolism and make the pet age quickly.

Best Water pH Level for Betta

Bettas thrive in a neutral environment. The appropriate PH range for the fish is 6.8 to 7.4. Use test kits to test the PH once or twice every week.

Betta Fish Water Hardness

Bettas favor soft water, and you should ensure the DH is less than 25. Add distilled water if the value is higher, which can be sourced from any grocery store.

How to Breed Molly Fish?

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Molly fish breeding

As a livebearer fish species, molly fish aren’t difficult to breed. In fact, mollies are so famous for their prolific breeding and ease of care that it’s no wonder they’re so popular in home aquaria.

They ease with which they can breed is also why they’re often used as live feed for carnivore fish species, which I must admit, is a bit unfortunate for mollies.

Yet, even if breeding molly fish is a breeze, if you want the fry to survive to adulthood, there are a few steps that you must take to protect their lives, especially that adult mollies aren’t down to parenting their fry.

Black Molly Care Guide (Diet, Tank & Breeding) | Fishkeeping Advice

If you’re thinking of giving molly fish breeding a try, in this guide on how to breed molly fish, I’ll walk you through the basics of this endeavor, so you’ll know what to do each step of the way.

Breeding Tank

Molly fish will readily breed in home aquaria if you have both males and females in the tank. For breeding, mollies prefer a tank with a temperature at around 80 °F, or even slightly higher.

Mollies enjoy neutral to slightly alkaline water pH (up to 8). Although some recommend adding aquarium salt to the breeding tank, I find that having water with hardness of potable quality works just fine when breeding molly fish.

Not all mollies tolerate salt in their water and if you house other freshwater fish with your mollies, I strongly discourage experimenting with salt in your aquarium.

What’s more important in the breeding tank is having lots of hiding spaces in the form of densely planted live plants that can offer cover both for the bearing female molly and the subsequent fry.

Live plants in an aged aquarium are also an excellent source of algae that both adult fish and fry can feed on.

As you may know from previously owning mollies or just by knowing their water temperature requirements, a water heater is quite indispensable to keep the water at the warmth they require it.

Unless you live in a tropical climate, you won’t be able to maintain temperatures at levels optimal for your mollies.

Plus, molly fish are known to produce a lot of waste, something that shouldn’t be controlled with water changes alone.

A filter will prove a great addition and extremely useful in keeping the water quality in check, so make sure you have a filter system installed for them.

Breeding Pair

You may already know that livebearers don’t lay eggs and instead give birth to live fish. To have your mollies breed, simply make sure you have a male amongst the female mollies in your aquarium and watch for signs of courtship.

Male mollies will chase the female mollies and you may notice the male under the female molly, which is a sign of copulation.

It’s important to limit the number of males that you stock your aquarium with as the male to female ratio should be 1:3, that is, one male for three females.

More males aren’t necessary, especially because of their constant pursuit of females, which will put too much stress on female mollies.

Female molly fish are constantly pregnant if male mollies are around and even when they aren’t it’s possible for the female fish to become pregnant.

Females can store the sperm for longer periods and fertilize the eggs even when males aren’t around. Therefore, if you’ve ever wondered why your molly fish came already pregnant from the pet store, you now have your answer.

Determining the Gender of Molly Fish

male-molly-fish

Male Molly Fish

Sexing molly fish isn’t too difficult. Here are some tips to tell female mollies and male mollies apart:

  • Female molly fish are usually larger in size compared to the male molly fish;
  • Bearing female mollies have a more rounded abdomen;
  • Males feature a copulatory organ in the anal fin called the gonopodium that releases the sperm in the female body to fertilize the eggs.

When male mollies chase female mollies with anal fins bent in the opposite direction, it’s a sign that they’re going to copulate.

I suggest getting your fish from a breeder that will usually offer better and healthier fish compared to sourcing them from a pet store.

Pick lively and large fish and put them on a high-quality diet to get them into spawning conditions. Live brine shrimp, quality flakes, bloodworms and other meaty foods are all good options.

Signs of Pregnancy

female-pregnant-molly-fish

Pregnant Female Molly Fish

I mentioned that molly fish that are bearing babies will have a bulkier abdomen. The female molly can produce up to a hundred eggs and give birth as frequently as every month.

Unfortunately, mollies will also eat their own babies and there isn’t anything you can do about that, other than removing the adults to keep them from eating their fry.

As the female molly is about to give birth, she will start seeking out darker corners of the aquarium and become more reclusive.

This is a good time to remove her from the aquarium where other adult fish may be housed to let her give birth and then remove her once again after she’s given birth to save the fry.

Be advised, however, that removing the pregnant molly can be stressful for her, so other options like setting up a breeding trap in the aquarium may be preferable to this option.

The molly fish will give birth by twitching her body to release the babies, which soon start to swim around looking for food and feed on algae that grows naturally on live plants in the tank.

Saving Molly Fry

molly-fish-fry

Molly Fish Fry

We’ve already established that adult fish are a danger to fry and you should do your best to either remove the pregnant molly fish and place her into a separate tank. Steps must be taken to prevent her from eating her own babies.

Here’s what you can do to save molly fry:

  • Set up a breeding box or fry trap in the aquarium;
  • Make sure you have a heavily planted tank with enough hiding spaces for the fry to take cover from the adult fish.

If you’ve opted for a breeding box, make sure not to keep the fry longer than two weeks in it as it will stunt their growth.

Caring for Molly Fry

Since they don’t have yolk sacs to feed on after they’re born, molly babies need to be fed and can’t be expected to feed on algae and whatever else they can find in the aquarium.

Therefore, you must feed them small portions of food small enough to fit their mouths. They also require frequent feedings as their digestive cycle is quite fast.

They key to quickly raising molly fry is to feed them often (up to 5 times a day) and with small portions, so they always have some food in their bellies.

You should aim for a varied diet that consists of live foods and flake foods. Live food options suitable for mollies include baby brine shrimp, micro worms, daphnia, vinegar eels. If live food options aren’t readily available, you can opt for frozen or freeze-dried alternatives.

As for flake foods, flakes designed for feeding small fry are an excellent option, but you can just as well feed them adult flakes crushed into a powder.

You can even prepare hard-boiled egg yolk paste as a protein-rich alternative for live foods. Either way, you should rotate foods so that they’ll get enough variety.

All these feedings – however small they may be – will up the waste production of your fry and you need to make sure that your tank maintenance game is on.

Molly babies are sensitive to raising toxin levels in the aquarium, so their nursery tank should absolutely have filter system installed.

As they’re still tiny, make sure you get a system that’s fry-safe, so they don’t get sucked into the filter. A filter that’s too powerful or that doesn’t have something placed on its opening will do that to your fry.

To ensure consistent temperature (up to 80 °F), you should absolutely get a heater. Warm water will speed the metabolism of baby mollies, encouraging them to eat more, which in turn will speed up their growth.

Make sure to perform weekly water changes and monitor the water quality to determine if you need more frequent water changes and in higher volume.

Conclusion

If you set out to breed molly fish, you won’t be encountering much trouble if you follow the advice in this article.

These fish are easy to breed, but they do have certain requirements that must be met, especially when it comes to the equipment needed for their aquarium (heater and filter system).

You should also be careful not to leave the fry in the same aquarium with adult fish if you don’t want them to end up as a tasty snack for your other fish.

The fry isn’t difficult to manage and raise either, however, they do require clean water and frequent small feedings to help them grow faster and stay healthy.

புதிய மீன்வளத்தைத் தொடங்கும்போது பொதுவான தவறுகள்

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மீன்வளத்தை நிறுவுவதற்கு புதிய பொழுதுபோக்கு மீன் பராமரிப்பாளர்கள் தொடங்கி, அவர்களுக்கு முன் வந்தவர்களின் தவறுகளைப் படித்து, சில பொதுவான ஆபத்துக்களைத் தவிர்க்க வேண்டும்.

மிகச் சிறியதாகத் தொடங்குகிறது

மினி-மீன் தொகுப்புகள் கிடைப்பதால், சிறியதாக செல்ல இது ஈர்க்கக்கூடும். இருப்பினும், ஆரம்பநிலைக்கு, ஒரு சிறிய மீன்வளத்தைத் தேர்ந்தெடுப்பது தோல்வியைக் குறிக்கிறது. நீரின் அளவு சிறியதாக இருக்கும்போது, ​​முக்கிய நீர் அளவுருக்கள் மிக விரைவாக மாறும் மற்றும் பிழைக்கு இடமளிக்காது.

அனுபவம் வாய்ந்த மீன்வளவாதிகள் கூட ஒரு சிறிய மீன்வளத்தால் சவால் செய்யப்படுகிறார்கள். பொழுதுபோக்கிற்கு புதியவர்கள் நீங்கள் அனுபவமடையும் வரை 20 கேலன் கீழ் தொட்டிகளிலிருந்து விலகி இருக்க வேண்டும். பெரிய தொட்டி, ஒரு தவறு மீனுக்கு குறைந்த தாக்கத்தை ஏற்படுத்தும்.

மீனை மிக விரைவில் சேர்ப்பது

புதிய மீன் உரிமையாளர்கள் மீன் சேர்க்க ஆர்வமாக உள்ளனர் , பெரும்பாலும் அவர்கள் தொட்டியை அமைத்த அதே நாளில். சிலர் அதிர்ஷ்டசாலிகள், ஆனால் பலர் தங்கள் மீன்களில் சிலவற்றை அல்லது அனைத்தையும் விரைவில் இழப்பார்கள். புதிய தொட்டியில் உள்ள நீர் நிலைப்படுத்தப்பட வேண்டும். வாயுக்கள் நீரில் கரைக்கப்படுவதோடு, தாதுக்கள், கன உலோகங்கள் மற்றும் உள்ளூர் நீர் சுத்திகரிப்பு நிலையங்களில் சேர்க்கப்படும் ரசாயனங்கள். தண்ணீரே மீன்களுக்கு தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும். தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும் பொருள்களை நடுநிலையாக்குவதற்கு மீன் நீரை நீர் கண்டிஷனருடன் சிகிச்சையளிக்க வேண்டும் மற்றும் கரைந்த வாயுக்கள் தப்பிக்க அனுமதிக்க ஒரு நாள் அல்லது அதற்கு மேல் நிற்க அனுமதிக்க வேண்டும், மேலும் பி.எச். வடிகட்டுதல் அமைப்பு செயல்படுவதையும், ஹீட்டர் தண்ணீரை சரியான வெப்பநிலைக்குக் கொண்டுவருவதையும், தொட்டி குறைந்தது ஒரு நாளாவது கசியவில்லை என்பதையும் உறுதிப்படுத்த விரும்புகிறீர்கள். பின்னர், மீன்வளத்திற்கு ஒரு சில மீன்களை அறிமுகப்படுத்துவது பாதுகாப்பாக இருக்கும்.

ஒரே நேரத்தில் பல மீன்களைச் சேர்ப்பது

மீன்களால் தொட்டியை நிரப்ப நீங்கள் ஆர்வமாக இருக்கலாம், ஆனால் துரதிர்ஷ்டவசமாக ஒரே நேரத்தில் பல மீன்களைச் சேர்ப்பது புதிய உரிமையாளர்களின் மற்றொரு பொதுவான தவறு. பயோ-வடிப்பானில் நன்மை பயக்கும் பாக்டீரியா காலனிகள் முழுமையாக நிறுவப்படும் வரை, மீன்வளமானது முழு சுமை மீன்களையும் பாதுகாப்பாக ஆதரிக்க முடியாது. ஆரம்பத்தில், சிறிய ஹார்டி மீன்களை மட்டும் சேர்க்கவும். அதிக மீன்களைச் சேர்ப்பதற்கு முன்பு அம்மோனியா மற்றும் நைட்ரைட் அளவு இரண்டும் உயர்ந்து பூஜ்ஜியமாகக் குறையும் வரை காத்திருங்கள். ஆரம்ப நைட்ரஜன் சுழற்சியின் வழியாக ஒரு புதிய மீன்வளம் செல்ல பொதுவாக 3-6 வாரங்கள் ஆகும், எனவே இந்த நேரத்தில் மீன் வாரத்திற்கு சிலவற்றை மட்டுமே சேர்க்க வேண்டும்.

மீன்வளத்தை மிகைப்படுத்துதல்

புதிய உரிமையாளர்கள் மீன்வளத்தை அதிகமாகப் பயன்படுத்துவது மிகவும் பொதுவானது. ஒரு அனுபவமுள்ள நபர் 20 சிறிய மீன்களைக் கொண்ட ஒரு பள்ளியை பத்து கேலன் மீன்வளையில் வெற்றிகரமாக வைத்திருக்கலாம் என்றாலும், ஒரு தொடக்கக்காரர் அதை முயற்சிப்பது பேரழிவு தரும்.

சரளை மற்றும் அலங்காரங்கள் அதில் இருந்தபின் உண்மையில் மீன்வளையில் வைக்கப்படும் நீரின் அளவு நிகர கேலன் தண்ணீராக இருக்க வேண்டும். மீன்வளத்தின் உண்மையான தண்ணீருக்கு தொட்டி அளவின் 80 சதவீத விகிதத்தைப் பயன்படுத்த விரும்புவீர்கள்.

எடுத்துக்காட்டாக, அலங்காரங்கள் மற்றும் சரளை சேர்க்கப்பட்ட பிறகு ஒரு “10-கேலன் மீன்” 8 கேலன் தண்ணீரை மட்டுமே வைத்திருக்கக்கூடும். ஒரு கேலன் நீர் விதிக்கு ஒரு அங்குல மீன் நீளத்தைப் பயன்படுத்தி, 8 அங்குல மீன்கள் பாதுகாப்பாக வைக்கப்பட வேண்டிய அதிகபட்ச எண்ணிக்கையாகும். அது முழு வளர்ச்சியடையும் போது ஒரு அங்குல நீளமாக வளரும் 8 மீன்களாகவோ அல்லது முழு வளரும்போது 2 அங்குல நீளமாக வளரும் 4 மீன்களாகவோ இருக்கலாம். அதிகபட்சத்தை விட அதிகபட்சமாக செல்வது எப்போதும் புத்திசாலித்தனம். இது ஒரு பொதுவான விதி மற்றும் பெரிய வடிகட்டுதல் அமைப்புகளைக் கொண்ட பெரிய மீன்வளங்கள் பெரும்பாலும் நீரின் தரம் சரியாக நிர்வகிக்கப்பட்டால் இதை விட அதிகமான மீன்களை வைத்திருக்க முடியும்.

பொருந்தாத மீன்களை வைத்திருத்தல்

புதிய மீன் உரிமையாளர்கள் பெரும்பாலும் சுற்றுச்சூழல் தேவைகளை அறியாமல் தங்களுக்கு ஈர்க்கக்கூடிய மீன்களை தேர்வு செய்கிறார்கள். சில மீன்கள் ஒருவருக்கொருவர் சண்டையிடலாம் அல்லது பரவலாக வேறுபட்ட நீர் நிலைமைகள் தேவைப்படலாம். தொட்டி துணையைத் தேர்ந்தெடுப்பதற்கு முன்பு ஒவ்வொரு இனத்தையும் எப்போதும் ஆராய்ச்சி செய்யுங்கள் . ஒத்த நீர் நிலைகளில் செழித்து வளரும் அமைதியான மீன்களைத் தேர்ந்தெடுக்கவும்.

உங்கள் மீனுக்கு அதிகப்படியான உணவு

மீன் உரிமையாளர்கள் செய்த முதல் தவறு மீன்களுக்கு அதிகப்படியான உணவு . மீன் சந்தர்ப்பவாதமானது மற்றும் எல்லா நேரங்களிலும் உணவைத் தேடும். அவர்கள் பசியுடன் தோன்றுவதால் அவர்களுக்கு எல்லா நேரமும் உணவளிக்க வேண்டும் என்று அர்த்தமல்ல. ஐந்து நிமிடங்களில் அவை முழுமையாக உட்கொள்வதை விட அவர்களுக்கு உணவளிக்க வேண்டாம். ஐந்து நிமிடங்களுக்குப் பிறகு உணவு மீதமுள்ளால், உணவை வலையுடன் அகற்றிவிட்டு, அடுத்த முறை குறைந்த உணவை உண்ணுங்கள்.

தொடக்கத்தின்போது, ​​ஒரு நாளைக்கு ஒரு முறைக்கு மேல் மீன்களுக்கு உணவளிக்க வேண்டாம்; அம்மோனியா அல்லது நைட்ரைட் அளவு அதிகமாக இருக்கும் முக்கியமான காலங்களில், உற்பத்தி செய்யப்படும் கழிவுகளை குறைக்க ஒரு நாள் அல்லது இரண்டு நாட்களுக்கு உணவளிப்பதை நிறுத்துங்கள். மீன் எளிதில் உணவு இல்லாமல் பல நாட்கள் செல்லலாம் மற்றும் மோசமான விளைவுகளை சந்திக்காது. உங்கள் மீன் சுழற்சி மற்றும் அம்மோனியா மற்றும் நைட்ரைட் அளவு பூஜ்ஜியமாகிவிட்டால், உங்கள் மீன்களுக்கு தினமும் இரண்டு முறை உணவளிக்க ஆரம்பிக்கலாம்.

போதுமான வடிகட்டுதல்

வடிகட்டி வழியாக நீரின் ஓட்டம் தான் உங்கள் மீன்களுக்கு தண்ணீரைப் பாதுகாக்க வைக்கிறது. ஒரு மீன் வடிகட்டி தொட்டியில் உள்ள அனைத்து நீரையும் ஒரு மணி நேரத்திற்கு குறைந்தது மூன்று முறை கடந்து செல்ல வேண்டும். அது இல்லை என்றால், அது மிகவும் சிறியது. வடிகட்டி அளவு குறித்து சந்தேகம் இருந்தால், அடுத்த பெரிய அளவிற்கு செல்லுங்கள். நீங்கள் அதிகமாக வடிகட்ட முடியாது, ஆனால் நீங்கள் நிச்சயமாக வடிகட்டலாம், மேலும் முடிவுகள் உங்கள் மீன்களுக்கு தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும்.

உங்கள் மீன்வளத்துடன் தவிர்க்க பொதுவான தவறுகளின் விளக்கம்
விளக்கம்: © தி ஸ்ப்ரூஸ், 2019

தண்ணீரை சோதிக்கவில்லை

புதிய உரிமையாளர்களுக்கு நைட்ரஜன் சுழற்சியைப் பற்றி முழு அறிவும் இல்லை அல்லது அவர்கள் மீன்வளையில் நீர் வேதியியலை சோதிக்க வேண்டும் என்று அவர்களுக்குத் தெரியாது. இதன் விளைவாக, ஒரு புதிய மீன்வளையில் தண்ணீரில் விரைவாகக் குவிந்துவரும் தீங்கு விளைவிக்கும் நச்சுக்களைச் சமாளிக்க அவர்கள் நடவடிக்கை எடுக்கத் தவறிவிடுவார்கள்.

தொட்டி முதலில் அமைக்கப்பட்டதும், அதை ஓரிரு நாட்கள் இயக்க அனுமதிக்கவும். மீனைச் சேர்ப்பதற்கு முன், ஒரு அடிப்படை பதிவுக்காக pH, கடினத்தன்மை, காரத்தன்மை, அம்மோனியா, நைட்ரைட் மற்றும் நைட்ரேட் அளவை சோதிக்கவும். தொடக்க சுழற்சியின் போது, ​​அம்மோனியா மற்றும் நைட்ரைட்டை அடிக்கடி சோதிப்பது முக்கியம் ( விவரங்களுக்கு நைட்ரஜன் சுழற்சியைப் பார்க்கவும்). தொட்டி நன்கு நிறுவப்பட்டதும், கண்ணுக்குத் தெரியாத சிக்கல்களைக் கண்டுபிடிக்க மாதந்தோறும் தண்ணீரைச் சோதிக்கவும். மீன் திடீரென இறந்துவிட்டால், ஏதாவது மாறிவிட்டதா என்று தண்ணீரை சோதிக்கவும் .

தண்ணீரை மாற்றவில்லை

புதிய உரிமையாளர்கள் எப்போதுமே மீன்வள பராமரிப்பு பற்றி கல்வி கற்பதில்லை , இதில் நீரின் ஒரு பகுதியை வழக்கமான அடிப்படையில் மாற்றுவது அடங்கும். சரளைகளை வெற்றிடமாக்குவதன் மூலமும், சிறிது தண்ணீரை அகற்றி, புதிய தண்ணீரில் மாற்றுவதன் மூலமும் மட்டுமே அகற்றக்கூடிய தொட்டியில் கழிவுகள் உருவாகின்றன. பொதுவாக ஒரு புதிய மீன்வளையில் வாரந்தோறும் ஒரு பகுதி நீர் மாற்றம் செய்யப்படுகிறது, பின்னர் ஒரு மாதத்திற்கு ஒரு முறை உயிர் வடிகட்டி நிறுவப்பட்டதும். ஒவ்வொரு நீர் மாற்றத்திற்கும் சுமார் 20% தண்ணீரை அகற்றி மாற்றுவது பொதுவாக போதுமானது. உங்கள் மீன்களுக்கான நீர் தர சோதனை முடிவுகள் சரியான மட்டத்தில் இல்லாவிட்டால் அடிக்கடி நீர் மாற்றங்களைச் செய்யுங்கள். உங்கள் மீன்வளையில் சேர்ப்பதற்கு முன்பு தண்ணீரைத் தட்ட எப்போதும் டெக்ளோரினேட்டர் அல்லது வாட்டர் கண்டிஷனரைச் சேர்க்கவும்.

நீங்கள் பராமரிப்பு மற்றும் வழக்கமான நீர் மாற்றங்களில் தோல்வியுற்றால் உங்கள் மீன் இறக்காது என்றாலும், தரமற்ற நீர் நிலைகளால் அவை வலியுறுத்தப்படும். இதன் விளைவாக, அவர்கள் நோய்க்கு ஆளாக நேரிடும், மேலும் அவை இருக்க வேண்டியதை விட குறுகிய ஆயுட்காலம் இருக்கும்.

How To Add Water to a Fish Tank

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It’s very exciting to come home with a new aquarium and everything that goes inside. But sometimes the assembly and filling step can feel intimidating—especially for first-time aquarium owners. Fortunately, the process is quite simple. As long as you carefully review all of the instructions, double-check that you have all the required supplies, and make sure anything you’re adding to the tank is thoroughly cleaned, you’ll create a beautiful and healthy habitat for your fish. If you’re still feeling a bit unsure, ask a friend or family member who has filled a tank before to give you a hand.

Filling Your Fish Tank With Water

Set up the aquarium, filtration, heater, and lights according to the instructions provided with the aquarium equipment. Rinse the aquarium gravel and all decor items that you will place into the aquarium. Now that you’ve fully prepared the aquarium, all you need to do is follow these quick and easy steps and safely fill your aquarium with water. You’ll want to set aside about 45 minutes (allow more time if you’re filling a very large tank) to complete this process.

Supplies:

  • Aquarium and equipment
  • Water conditioner
  • Clean bucket
  • Clean plate
  • Washed gravel

Instructions:

  1. Purchase a bottle of aquarium water conditioner (dechlorinator).
  2. Purchase a bucket and label it for aquarium use only. Aquarium buckets should never have soap in them.
  3. Fill the bottom of the tank with the washed gravel to a depth of two to three inches.
  4. Lay a clean plate on top of the gravel. Be sure there is no soap residue on the plate. If unsure, soak it for five minutes in a 10% bleach solution, rinse thoroughly with running water, then let it air dry before use.
  5. Let cold water run from the tap for a few minutes to flush out any minerals or residue from the lines.
  6. Fill a clean bucket approximately two-thirds to three-fourths full with water.
  7. Slowly pour the water from the bucket onto the plate in the aquarium.
  8. Repeat steps six and seven until the tank is half-filled with water.
  9. Add plants and decorations. You can add other accessories (like larger rocks and figurines) to the tank at this time—just make sure they’re thoroughly washed and dried before putting into the tank. It’s recommended to only add accessories purchased from an aquarium store as found rocks may alter the pH of your tank.
  10. Install the heater and filter, but do not plug them into the electrical outlet yet.
  11. Repeat steps six and seven until the aquarium is filled with water.
  12. Remove the plate and add a water conditioner according to package instructions. Now is a good time to also add a bacteria starter.
  13. Start the filter and heater, and let the aquarium run for at least twenty-four hours before adding fish.

Aquarium Assembly Tips

A few more things to keep in mind as you assemble your aquarium:

  1. Old buckets may be used if they haven’t previously been used for chemicals and are thoroughly cleaned with bleach, rinsed well, and allowed to air dry.
  2. Fill your buckets only as full as you can comfortably carry and pour them.
  3. Before purchasing fish, be sure your tank is the appropriately sized habitat for the species.
  4. Check out this aquarium design tutorial if you aren’t sure what you’d like to include in your tank.

Things you need to Know Before You Buy an Aquarium

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All too often new aquarium owners have a bad first experience with their first aquarium and end up giving up almost before they get started. Considering these basic factors and planning will help potential new aquarium owners avoid common pitfalls. Even for the experienced aquarium owner, planning is a good idea.

Two of the most important and basic issues to consider when setting up a new aquarium are cost and size. In both cases, people usually underestimate what is needed, and may make compromises that cause problems later.

Cost

Potential aquarium owners often see the price tag on a special package deal and assume they can get started for a few dollars. Don’t be fooled into thinking you’ll get started in the hobby for fifty dollars or less. Realistically it will cost $150 to $200 to get started with decent equipment. If that investment is too steep for your budget, it is wise to save until the funds are available to get everything you need. A good way to start is to make a checklist of what you need.

Make a Checklist

Expenses include the aquarium and stand, hood and light, heater, filter, gravel, decorations, water treatment, net, and cleaning supplies. All that in addition to the fish, as well as their food. Make a thorough checklist and go online or to a pet store, then write down the costs for all the items you are interested in. Sit down and determine what your bottom line cost is before you make your decision. You may be surprised to see what the actual total cost is.

If your budget is very tight, another option is to ask for help. Take your checklist of what you need and let your friends and family know that you’d like items from that list for your birthday, graduation, or as a holiday gift. That way you can get started without having to opt for inferior equipment, and your family can get you something they know you want. Maybe they will surprise you and give you the items without waiting for a special occasion.

Another option is to look for used equipment. Be aware that used tanks may leak, and heaters or filters may not work at all, and it’s difficult to test them out before buying. So ask questions upfront, and don’t pay more than 50 percent of the original price for anything. Don’t be too afraid of dirty glass or decorations, as that can be cleaned pretty easily. However, scratches and cracks cannot be rectified, so check used equipment closely for damage.

Size

Avoid tanks under 10 gallons if you are a first-time aquarium owner. Small aquariums are far more difficult to manage than larger ones, as toxins can build up very quickly in the small volume of water. Temperature changes and water chemistry changes can also occur very quickly when there are only a few gallons of water.

A must to avoid are those cute mini-aquariums that range from two to five gallons. Although some of the package deals in tiny aquariums may seem reasonably priced, they are not good for the first time aquarium owner. If at all possible go with a 20 gallon or larger tank. You’ll have a much better chance of making it work, as a larger tank is more forgiving of errors you might make.

Consider Weight

Be aware that an aquarium larger than 15 gallons will weigh more than 200 hundred pounds when filled, and should be placed on a stand rather than a shelf or desk. You’ll also need a place to put the aquarium that is not in direct sunlight or be subjected to drafts or temperature extremes that could harm the fish.

The location must also be capable of getting wet from time to time. Performing maintenance, adding or removing fish and other items from the tank will splash water around the tank. so keep that in mind if you are thinking about keeping a tank on your desktop or over a shelf of books or other items that might get wet.

Number of Fish

Lastly, be realistic about the size and number of fish you wish to keep. They will determine the size of the aquarium needed, which ultimately impacts the space you’ll need to accommodate it. Even if you choose a larger tank, start with a few small easy to care for fish. As you gain experience, you can add more challenging fish.

In short, when first starting out, think big for tank size and small for numbers of fish. Plan before purchasing equipment or fish, and you’ll have a good chance of success.