The Water Hyacinth, or Eichhornia crassipes, is a captivating aquatic plant native to the Amazon basin. Adorned with vibrant lavender blossoms and a rosette of glossy green leaves, it brings an exquisite touch to any water body. Uniquely, the Water Hyacinth has an unparalleled reproduction rate, with the capacity to double its population within a fortnight under optimal conditions.

This fascinating plant, despite its beauty, is considered one of the fastest-growing invasive species worldwide, often posing significant challenges to waterways due to its rapid proliferation. Discover more about its care, growth, and unique characteristics in our comprehensive guide.

Quick Notes About Water Hyacinth

Scientific Name: Eichhornia crassipes, also known as Water Hyacinth

• Origin: Indigenous to the Amazon Basin, but has spread worldwide
• Physical Characteristics: Characterized by its rosette of glossy green leaves and striking lavender blossoms
• Size: Individual plants typically range between 10-20 inches in height
• Growth Rate: Extremely rapid; under ideal conditions, can double in population every two weeks
• Preferred Habitat: Thrives in still or slow-moving freshwater environments
• Temperature: Optimal growth occurs between 75-85°F (24-29°C)
• pH Levels: Prefers slightly alkaline water with a pH of 7.0 to 7.5
• Toxicity: Though non-toxic to humans and pets, can cause ecological damage if growth is not controlled
• Care and Maintenance: Requires abundant sunlight and warm temperatures for optimal growth
• Propagation: Primarily through stolons, producing daughter plants
• Winter Care: In colder climates, it needs to be moved indoors or to a heated greenhouse to survive.

Origin and Habitat

The Water Hyacinth, known in scientific circles as Eichhornia crassipes, has its roots in the Amazon basin in South America. This unique aquatic plant found its niche in the tranquil waters of slow-moving rivers, ponds, and lakes, beautifully enhancing these habitats with its glossy green foliage and stunning lavender blossoms.

Over time, the plant’s allure and adaptability led to its global spread, and it’s now found in North America, Asia, and Africa. Despite its tropical origin, Water Hyacinth has shown a remarkable resilience in adapting to varying climates, thriving in both tropical and subtropical conditions.

However, its remarkable growth rate and tenacity often result in it being classified as an invasive species, posing significant ecological challenges in its adopted habitats.

Description of Water Hyacinth

The Water Hyacinth is a stunning aquatic plant, characterized by its buoyant rosette of glossy, rounded, green leaves and delicate lavender blossoms. Its unique structure enables it to float elegantly on water surfaces, adding a splash of colour and life to its environment.

• Vibrant lavender flowers: These blossoms are clustered in spikes and offer a delightful contrast to the green foliage.
• Glossy green leaves: The leaves are broad and rounded, growing in a rosette pattern that allows the plant to float.
• Dark fibrous roots: The plant features a network of dark, feathery roots submerged beneath the water surface.
• Rapid growth: One of the fastest-growing plants, it can double its population in just two weeks under ideal conditions.
• Size: Individual plants typically reach a height of 10-20 inches.

Water Hyacinth in Aquatic Environments

Tank Requirements and Water Parameters

If you’re planning to grow Water Hyacinths in an aquarium or pond, there are specific tank requirements and water parameters that you need to take into account to ensure their healthy growth.

• Tank Size: Can grow quite large, so a spacious tank is required. For a single plant, a 10-gallon tank is the minimum size recommended. However, for multiple plants, consider a larger tank or outdoor pond.
• Water Type: Freshwater is essential. They prefer slightly alkaline water, so maintaining a pH level between 7.0 and 7.5 is ideal.
• Temperature: Water Hyacinths are tropical plants and thrive in warm water. A temperature between 75-85°F (24-29°C) is best. In colder regions, they should be moved indoors during winter months.
• Hardness: The plant is adaptable and can handle a wide range of water hardness levels. However, a general hardness (GH) between 3-18 dGH is typically suitable for their growth.
• Lighting: These plants require plenty of light to grow well, so make sure your tank is located in a place where it can receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. If indoor lighting is your only option, use powerful full-spectrum aquarium lights.
• Substrate: As a floating plant, Water Hyacinths do not require substrate. They absorb nutrients directly from the water through their feathery, hanging roots.
• CO2 and Fertilization: While Water Hyacinths can grow without additional CO2, supplementing CO2 can promote healthier and faster growth. Regular fertilization with a comprehensive aquarium plant fertilizer can also be beneficial, especially in a tank setup where nutrient uptake from fish waste is minimal.

Growing Water Hyacinth

How to Grow

Growing Water Hyacinth can be a rewarding endeavor thanks to its rapid growth and beautiful appearance. Here are some steps to guide you through the process:

1. Choose the Right Location: They prefer still or slow-moving water bodies such as ponds, lakes, or slow rivers. They need a location that gets plenty of sunlight as they require at least six hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth.
2. Prepare the Water: While Water Hyacinths can tolerate a range of water conditions, they prefer slightly alkaline water. Check your water’s pH level to ensure it’s between 7.0 to 7.5.
3. Planting: Simply place the plant on the water surface. The plant will float and spread across the water body. Ensure the water temperature is above 60°F (15.5°C) before you introduce them, as they thrive in warm conditions.
4. Maintenance: Regularly monitor the growth of your plants. Due to their rapid growth, they may require thinning to prevent overcrowding. Remove excess or dying plants to ensure healthy growth.
5. Nutrients: Water Hyacinths are heavy feeders, so if your water body lacks nutrients, you may need to add a water-soluble fertilizer to support their growth.
6. Winter Care: If you live in a cooler climate, you’ll need to move your plant indoors during the winter, as they are not frost-tolerant.

Container Grown

Growing Water Hyacinth in a container is an effective way to control its rapid expansion. First, pick a spacious container that can hold water. Fill it with dechlorinated tap water or rainwater, and adjust the pH level to be slightly alkaline. Then, simply place the plant on the water’s surface.

Ensure it gets at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, and if necessary, supplement with a water-soluble fertilizer. Regularly check the plant for any signs of disease or decay, removing unhealthy parts as needed. In colder months, remember to move the container indoors, as the plant cannot withstand frost.

Propagation

• Natural Propagation: Water Hyacinth propagates naturally by producing runners, or stolons, that grow out from the parent plant, forming new daughter plants.
• Separation: Once these daughter plants are well-formed, with their own root systems and leaves, they can be gently separated from the mother plant.
• Floating: Newly separated plants should be allowed to float freely on the water surface. They will continue to grow and produce their own runners, repeating the propagation process.
• Monitor Growth: Keep an eye on the growth of new plants. Due to their rapid growth rate, Water Hyacinths can quickly overcrowd a water body or tank.
• Controlled Propagation: If the plant growth becomes excessive, manually remove some plants to prevent overcrowding and to maintain a balanced ecosystem.

Remember, propagation of Water Hyacinth should be done responsibly due to its potential to become invasive in certain environments.

Temperature, Hardiness, and pH

• Temperature: As tropical plants, Water Hyacinths prefer warmer water temperatures. They thrive in conditions where the water temperature ranges between 75-85°F (24-29°C). In colder regions, they should be moved indoors during winter months to avoid frost.
• Hardiness: Water Hyacinths are quite hardy when it comes to water conditions. They can tolerate a variety of water hardness levels, though a general hardness (GH) between 3-18 dGH is typically suitable.
• pH: Water Hyacinths prefer slightly alkaline conditions. Therefore, maintaining a pH level between 7.0 and 7.5 is ideal for their growth and survival.

Lighting

Lighting is an essential factor in the growth and survival of Water Hyacinths. As a tropical plant native to the sunny Amazon basin, it thrives in plenty of light. Here are some key points regarding lighting for Water Hyacinths:

• Sunlight Requirement: Water Hyacinths require a lot of sunlight for optimal growth. Ideally, they should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
• Indoor Lighting: If you’re growing Water Hyacinths indoors or in an aquarium, ensure they are placed near a window that gets plenty of sunlight. If this is not possible, use full-spectrum aquarium lights or plant grow lights to provide the necessary light conditions.
• Effects of Insufficient Light: Without enough light, Water Hyacinths may not flower, and their growth could be stunted. The leaves might also start to yellow and lose their vibrant green color.

CO2 and Fertilization

• CO2: As a floating plant, Water Hyacinths obtain CO2 directly from the air rather than dissolved in water. Therefore, they generally don’t require additional CO2 supplementation like some other aquatic plants might.
• Fertilization: The plants are heavy feeders and can absorb a wide range of nutrients directly from the water through their root systems. If they’re kept in a nutrient-rich pond or aquarium where fish waste is available, additional fertilization might not be necessary.
• Nutrient Absorption and Water Quality: One of the benefits of these plants is their ability to absorb excess nutrients from the water, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. This can help to improve water quality and reduce the risk of issues like algal blooms.

Compatible Tankmates

Water Hyacinths can coexist well with various aquatic creatures in a pond or aquarium setting. However, the choice of tankmates largely depends on the size of the tank or pond, water conditions, and the needs of other inhabitants. Here are some compatible tankmates for Water Hyacinths:

• Fish: Most non-aggressive freshwater fish species can coexist peacefully. The plants can even provide shade and hiding spots for the fish. However, large herbivorous fish, like some Cichlids and Goldfish, may nibble on the roots and leaves of the plant, potentially damaging them.
• Invertebrates: Many invertebrates like snails and shrimps can live harmoniously with Water Hyacinths. They often feed on the microscopic algae and biofilm growing on the roots and leaves of the plants.
• Other Aquatic Plants: They can be combined with other aquatic plants, but their rapid growth and dense cover may block light for submerged plants. So, it’s essential to manage their growth to ensure other plants get enough light.
• Amphibians: Frogs and toads can also benefit from the presence of Water Hyacinths in a pond environment. The plants provide coverage and a potential breeding ground.
• Birds: In larger outdoor pond settings, They can provide a habitat for various bird species, especially water birds.

Plant Eater Fish

When it comes to fish that eat plants, you’ll need to carefully consider which species you introduce to your water hyacinth environment. Several herbivorous and omnivorous fish species are known to nibble on aquatic plants, including water hyacinths. These include:

• Goldfish: Both common goldfish and their larger koi cousins are notorious plant eaters and might damage your plants by nibbling on their roots and leaves.
• Cichlids: Some types of cichlids, especially larger South American and African species, are known to eat plants.
• Plecos: Certain species of plecos, like the common plecostomus, can also damage aquatic plants, though they are primarily algae eaters.
• Silver Dollars: These are herbivorous fish that will nibble on a variety of plants.
• Tinfoil Barbs: These are omnivorous fish that may eat plant material, though they primarily feed on small animals and detritus.

If you have water hyacinths in your pond or aquarium, it’s recommended to choose plant-friendly fish or monitor the plant-eating fish’s behavior to ensure they aren’t causing significant damage to the water hyacinths. If necessary, you can provide these fish with ample vegetable-based food to deter them from eating the plants.

The Benefits and Problems of Water Hyacinth

Despite their beauty and utility, this can be a mixed blessing. It has various benefits but can also cause significant problems if not adequately managed.

Benefits

1. Water Purification: They can absorb toxins, pollutants, and excess nutrients from the water, improving water quality and helping to control algae blooms.
2. Habitat Creation: The dense cover they form provides a habitat and food for various aquatic species, including fish, invertebrates, and birds.
3. Aesthetics: With their attractive lavender flowers and glossy green leaves, Water Hyacinths can enhance the visual appeal of ponds and aquariums.
4. Soil Enrichment: Decomposed plants can be used to enrich soil with nutrients.

Problems

1. Invasiveness: One of the main issues with Water Hyacinths is their potential to become invasive due to their rapid growth rate. They can quickly overcrowd water bodies, blocking sunlight for other aquatic plants and animals.
2. Impact on Biodiversity: When they plants dominate a water body, they can alter the ecosystem and negatively impact native species diversity.
3. Blocking Waterways: In rivers and canals, large plant mats can obstruct boating, fishing, and other water activities.
4. Disease and Pest Vector: Stagnant water under the dense mats can become a breeding ground for mosquitos and other pests.

Care and Maintenance of Water Hyacinth

Taking care of Water Hyacinths involves a few key steps. Despite being relatively easy to grow, these plants need some maintenance to keep them healthy and prevent overgrowth. Here are some tips for the care and maintenance.

1. Light: Ensure your Water Hyacinths receive at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you’re growing them indoors, consider using a full-spectrum light to simulate sunlight.
2. Temperature and Water Conditions: Water Hyacinths thrive in warm water between 75-85°F (24-29°C). They prefer slightly alkaline conditions with a pH between 7.0 and 7.5. They are hardy plants but the water should ideally have a general hardness between 3-18 dGH.
3. Nutrients: Ensure the water is nutrient-rich, either from organic matter like fish waste or through adding a suitable water-soluble fertilizer.
4. Overcrowding: Water Hyacinths grow rapidly and can crowd out other plants or block sunlight from penetrating the water. Regularly remove excess plants to maintain balance in your water body.
5. Winter Care: In colder regions, Water Hyacinths need to be moved indoors or they could die off in the frost.
6. Monitor Health: Keep an eye out for signs of poor health such as yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or lack of flowering. These could indicate problems with water quality, insufficient sunlight, or nutrient deficiency.
7. Invasiveness: Due to their potential to become invasive, never dispose of Water Hyacinths in natural water bodies. Always dispose of unwanted plants responsibly, such as by compos

Purchasing and Quarantine Process

1. Purchasing: Start by sourcing your plants from a reputable dealer. Look for plants that appear healthy – bright green leaves and robust roots are good indicators of a thriving water plant.
2. Quarantine: Just like with new fish, it’s important to quarantine your new plants before introducing them into your main setup. This prevents any potential diseases or pests from spreading to your established aquatic environment.
   • Set up a separate tank for your new plants and fill it with water. Place the tank where it will receive sunlight or provide artificial light to mimic their natural environment.
   • Monitor the plants daily during the quarantine period. Look for any signs of disease or pests, such as yellowing leaves or a sudden loss of vigor. Any pests or diseases should be treated during this phase to prevent them from spreading.
3. Observation: A quarantine period of about two weeks is generally enough. If no issues have emerged during this time, your plants are likely safe to introduce to your pond or aquarium.
4. Acclimatization: When introducing the plants to their new home, be sure to acclimate them to the water conditions. This step is just as important as it is when introducing new fish to a tank.

B

FAQ

Do Water Hyacinths  require Substrate?

No, They do not require substrate. As free-floating plants, they extract all necessary nutrients directly from the water through their extensive root systems, and do not need soil or other substrate to thrive.

Are water hyacinth banned in UK?

Yes, Water Hyacinths are banned in the UK. Under the EU Invasive Alien Species Regulation, it is illegal to import, sell, grow, use, or release Water Hyacinths into the environment due to their invasive nature.

Are water hyacinth dangerous?

No, they are not directly dangerous to fish. In fact, they can provide shelter and food for fish. However, if allowed to overgrow, they can deplete oxygen levels and block sunlight in the water, which could harm fish.

Why is water hyacinth a threat?

Water Hyacinth poses a threat in open water due to its rapid growth and invasive nature. It can quickly form dense mats that block sunlight, reduce oxygen levels, disrupt water flow, impede water activities, and outcompete native aquatic species.

More Reading

In the world of aquascaping, few aquatic plants offer the unique appeal and versatility of Hygrophila Pinnatifida. This comprehensive guide aims to provide you with a deep understanding of how to care for this common freshwater plant.

So if you’re wondering whether this fern is the right plant to add a splash of red to your aquarium, you’ve come to the right place!

Hygrophila Pinnatifida Facts, Origins & Overview

Ever wondered where Hygrophila Pinnatifida comes from? It hails from the vibrant streams of India’s Western Ghats. Clinging onto rocky riverbeds, soaking up the sun and cleaning nutrients from the flowing water.

Want a slow growing Hygrophila Plant? Check out – 16 Awesome Low Light Aquarium Plants Guide!

This natural habitat is pretty unique. It’s here that Hygrophila Pinnatifida learns to be flexible, growing both underwater and above it. When you add this plant to your aquarium, you’re bringing a slice of its wild, adaptive nature into your home. Cool, right?

Types of Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is unique and doesn’t have recognized variants. However, slight differences in leaf color and shape can be observed, based on varying light and nutrient conditions.

Appearance & Max Size

Hygrophila Pinnatifida’s alluring appearance lies in its pinnately cut leaves, which may vary from dark green to brown or even red under optimal lighting conditions. The plant grows horizontally, with the stem reaching a height of 10-20 cm and a width of 15-20 cm.

Pros & Cons

Pros:

• Versatility: Can be used as a centerpiece or background plant and can be planted in various ways (in the substrate, attached to hardscape, or even floated).
• Unique Appearance: Offers a distinct look with its fern-like leaves and various shades of green, brown, or red.
• Wide Range of Water Parameters: Can tolerate a broad range of water parameters, making it adaptable to different aquarium setups.
• Moderate Growth Rate: Allows for easy management and predictable growth patterns.

Cons:

• Light Requirements: Needs moderate to high light conditions for optimal growth and coloration.
• Sensitivity to Hard Water: May experience growth issues in excessively hard water conditions.

Tank Size, Water Parameters, Temp, Lighting, PH

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is adaptable to a wide range of tank sizes, from nano tanks to larger aquascapes. Ideal water parameters include a temperature range of 22-28°C, pH of 6-7.5, and a GH of up to 30. While this plant can tolerate low light,the vibrant coloration and growth rate are significantly enhanced under moderate to high lighting conditions.

How to Plant Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Substrate

Plant Hygrophila Pinnatifida into a rich nutrient substrate. The stem should be inserted deep enough to prevent it from floating away but not so deep that the lower leaves are buried.

Attached

This plant can also be attached to rocks, driftwood, or decor using a cotton thread or a plant glue. Over time, it will anchor itself using its roots.

Floating

While not a common practice, Hygrophila Pinnatifida can be allowed to float in the aquarium, leading to an intriguing and unique aesthetic.

Growth and Propagation (Breeding)

How fast does it grow?

Under optimal conditions, Hygrophila Pinnatifida exhibits a moderate growth rate, with new leaves sprouting every week.

How to propagate?

Propagating this plant is simple – cut a healthy stem and plant it into the substrate or attach it to hardscape. The cut stem will grow into a new plant.

CO2 and fertilization

While the plant will grow without added CO2, the supplementation of CO2 and micronutrients can significantly enhance growth and coloration.

Tank Mates

Suitable Tankmates

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is compatible with a wide range of fish, shrimp, and snails that do not have a tendency to nibble on plants.

Unsuitable Tankmates

Avoid housing this plant with species like goldfish, cichlids, and large plecos, which are known to uproot or eat aquatic plants.

Care and Maintenance

Is Hygrophila Pinnatifida low maintenance?

While this plant is relatively easy to care for, its requirement for moderate to high light and its sensitivity to hard water mean that some degree of maintenance is necessary.

Trimming And Pruning

Trimming the plant regularly will promote bushier growth. Make sure to remove any yellow or decaying leaves to maintain plant health.

Signs Of Good Health

A healthy Hygrophila Pinnatifida exhibits vibrant coloration, new leaf growth, and strong root development.

Signs Of Poor Health

Warning signs include yellowing leaves, slow growth, and weak root systems. These signs may indicate issues with water parameters, lighting, or nutrients.

Is Hygrophila Pinnatifida Suitable for Your Aquarium?

If you’re seeking an aesthetically pleasing, versatile, and relatively manageable plant to enhance your aquascape, Hygrophila Pinnatifida is a fantastic choice.

Remember, while it demands certain conditions for optimal growth, the breathtaking beauty it offers in return makes the effort worthwhile.

More Reading

Swordtail fish, distinguished by their long, sword-like tails, are a colourful and lively addition to any home aquarium. Native to Central and North America, these freshwater species are renowned for their hardy nature and easy care requirements, making them ideal for both beginner and experienced aquarists.

The swordtail’s playful behaviour and vibrant hues, ranging from greens and reds to yellows, offer endless fascination. Additionally, they’re livebearers, which adds an exciting dimension to fish keeping as you might get to witness the miracle of birth right in your tank. A proper understanding of their needs, from diet to tank conditions and compatible mates, is crucial for their thriving existence.

Swordtail Fish: Facts & Overview

Origin

The Swordtail fish, scientifically known as Xiphophorus hellerii, originates from the warm waters of Central and North America, with a significant presence in Mexico and Honduras. They inhabit a wide range of freshwater habitats, from rapid flowing rivers to slow-moving streams, often amidst dense vegetation.

Their natural environment plays a crucial role in defining their care needs in home aquariums, especially in terms of water temperature, pH balance, and tank setup. The swordtails we see today in aquariums, bearing a variety of vibrant colours and patterns, are often the result of careful selective breeding, a departure from their wild counterparts that usually exhibit a more subdued green hue.

Swordtail Fish Appearance

Colours, Patterns, Fins

Swordtail fish are celebrated in the aquarium world for their diverse range of colours, patterns, and distinct fin shapes. They possess an elongated body and a signature ‘sword-like’ tail, particularly prominent in males.

The colours of Swordtail fish can range extensively due to selective breeding. While wild Swordtails are usually greenish with a brown or yellow lateral stripe, aquarium varieties exhibit a wide palette, including red, orange, black, white, and even multicoloured or marbled patterns.

Their body can be uniformly coloured or bear distinct patterns, such as spots or stripes. Some Swordtail fish may also display a ‘wagtail’ pattern, where the body colour contrasts with a solid-coloured tail and fins.

As for their fins, Swordtails possess a dorsal fin and an anal fin, known as a gonopodium in males, used in reproduction. The dorsal fin is larger in males than females, while the iconic ‘sword’ is a prolonged lower tail fin, more pronounced and longer in males, contributing to their unique visual appeal.

Average Swordtail Fish Size and Lifespan

When it comes to understanding and providing the appropriate care for Swordtail fish, it’s important to consider their typical size and lifespan. These factors contribute significantly to their housing, dietary needs, and overall wellbeing.

• Swordtail Fish Size: Swordtail fish typically grow to an average length of 5 to 6 inches in captivity. Males, identifiable by their prominent ‘sword’ tail extension, are generally larger than females. However, size can vary depending on tank conditions and genetics.
• Swordtail Fish Lifespan: On average, Swordtail fish live for about 3 to 5 years in a well-maintained aquarium. Proper care, including optimal water conditions, balanced nutrition, and disease prevention, significantly contributes to their lifespan. It’s worth noting that some Swordtails have been known to live even longer under exceptionally good care.

Sex Differences

Sexual dimorphism is quite distinct in Swordtail fish, making it relatively straightforward to differentiate between males and females.

• Males: Male Swordtails are characterised by their long, sword-like lower tail fin, from which the species derives its name. They also possess a modified anal fin, known as a gonopodium, used for internal fertilisation. Males are generally larger and more colourful than females, and their dorsal fins are usually longer.
• Females: Female Swordtails lack the prominent ‘sword’ and have a regular, fan-shaped anal fin. They are typically larger in body size, especially when carrying fry (baby fish), and their colours are often more subdued compared to males. The dorsal fin in females is shorter than in males.

Being aware of these sex differences can be particularly important when planning for a balanced community tank or if you intend to breed your Swordtail fish.

Neon Swordtail Fish

Neon Swordtail fish are a type of Swordtail fish that are admired for their vibrant, neon-like colours. Just like other Swordtail fish, they are native to North and Central America. Their neon colouring is the result of selective breeding by aquarists.

The Neon Swordtail possesses the same iconic elongated tail fin, or ‘sword’, that is a characteristic of this species. They have the same care requirements as other Swordtails, needing a spacious tank, specific water parameters, a diet consisting of both plant and animal matter, and peaceful tank mates.

Their striking neon colours make them a standout choice for any aquarium, adding a splash of brilliance and liveliness to the tank. However, as with all fish, they require diligent care to maintain their vibrant colour and overall health.

Behaviour and Temperament

Typical Behaviour

Swordtail fish are known for their lively and engaging behaviour. They are active swimmers, spending most of their time in the middle to upper parts of the aquarium, adding a vibrant dynamic to any fish tank. Here are a few key points about their behaviour and temperament:

• Community-Friendly: Swordtails generally get along well with other non-aggressive fish of similar size, making them a popular choice for community aquariums.
• Active Swimmers: They are dynamic and lively, spending much of their time exploring and swimming around the tank.
• Male Aggression: While Swordtails are generally peaceful, males can exhibit territorial tendencies and may spar with each other, especially in the presence of females. This behaviour usually doesn’t result in harm, but it’s crucial to monitor and ensure it doesn’t escalate to persistent bullying.
• Jumpers: Swordtails are known to be adept jumpers. It’s advisable to have a secure tank lid to prevent any adventurous fish from jumping out.

Swordtail Fish are Livebearers

Swordtail fish are livebearers, a term used in the aquarium trade to describe species that give birth to live young rather than laying eggs. This reproductive characteristic is one of the fascinating aspects of keeping Swordtail fish.

In the case of Swordtails, internal fertilisation occurs when the male uses his modified anal fin, known as a gonopodium, to deliver sperm to the female. The female then carries the fertilised eggs internally until they hatch, after which she gives birth to free-swimming fry.

The gestation period typically lasts around 28 days, although it can vary. A single female can give birth to a brood of anywhere from 20 to 100 fry, depending on her size and health. Interestingly, females can store sperm and produce multiple batches of fry from a single mating.

Live bearing lends a fascinating dynamic to the Swordtail’s behaviour, and it can be quite a spectacle to see a female Swordtail giving birth to a new generation right in your home aquarium. However, it’s important to provide the right conditions for breeding and to ensure the safety of the newborn fry, as adults can sometimes eat their young.

Aquarium Setup

Tank Size

Swordtail fish are active swimmers and require ample space to thrive. For a single Swordtail, a tank of at least 20 gallons (approximately 76 litres) is recommended. This ensures they have sufficient space for swimming and expressing natural behaviours.

If you plan to keep a group of Swordtails, the tank should be even larger. A general rule of thumb is to add an additional 10 gallons (approximately 38 litres) for each new Swordtail you introduce to the tank. For instance, a tank for two Swordtails should be around 30 gallons, while a tank for three Swordtails should be around 40 gallons.

Remember, these are minimum requirements. If you can provide a larger tank, your Swordtails will greatly appreciate it. A larger tank not only allows more room for swimming but also helps in maintaining stable water conditions, which contributes to the overall health and longevity of your fish.

It’s also worth noting that if your Swordtail fish breed, additional space will be needed to accommodate the newborn fry. So, if you plan on breeding, consider opting for a larger tank from the beginning.

Water Parameters and Tank Conditions

Creating an environment that closely mimics the Swordtail fish’s natural habitat is key to their health and well-being. Below are the optimal water parameters and tank conditions:

• Water Temperature: Swordtail fish thrive in water temperatures between 22°C and 28°C.
• pH Level: The water should be slightly alkaline, with a pH range of 7.0 to 8.4.
• Water Hardness: Aim for general hardness (GH) between 12° and 30° dGH, which equates to moderately hard to hard water.
• Water Flow: They prefer moderate water flow that simulates their natural river habitats.
• Tank Decorations: The tank should feature plenty of hiding spots and cover, provided by live plants and rock or driftwood formations. However, ensure there’s ample open swimming space as well.
• Lighting: Moderate lighting is suitable for Swordtail fish.
• Substrate: A fine gravel or sand substrate is recommended, especially if live plants are used.
• Filtration: A high-quality filter is crucial to maintain clean water and remove waste products.
• Tank Lid: A secure lid is essential, as Swordtails are known to be good jumpers.

Remember to maintain these conditions consistently, as sudden changes can cause stress and health issues in Swordtails. Regular water changes and monitoring of water parameters will help ensure a healthy environment.

Decorations and Compatible Plants

Decorating your Swordtail fish tank properly can greatly enhance their quality of life by providing hiding spots, spawning areas, and mimicking their natural habitat. Here are some suggestions:

Decorations:

• Caves and Rocks: Swordtails appreciate places to hide and explore, so including caves or rock formations in the tank design can be beneficial.
• Driftwood: Driftwood can also serve as a hiding spot and add a natural aesthetic to the tank.
• Ceramic Pieces: Non-toxic ceramic pieces can also provide shelter and entertainment for your fish.

Compatible Plants:

Swordtails hail from environments rich in vegetation. So, incorporating live plants not only contributes to the tank’s aesthetic but also offers practical benefits like providing cover, aiding in water oxygenation, and absorbing nitrates.

• Java Fern: This hardy plant tolerates a wide range of conditions and doesn’t require substrate, as it can attach to rocks and driftwood.
• Anubias: Anubias is another robust species that can be attached to tank decorations.
• Amazon Sword: These large, leafy plants provide excellent cover and mimic the Swordtail’s natural environment. They do require a nutrient-rich substrate to thrive.
• Hornwort: A fast-growing plant that can float or be planted, excellent for providing shelter for fry.

Swordtail Fish Care

Food & Diet: Feeding Your Swordtail Fish

Providing Swordtail fish with a balanced and varied diet is vital to their health, colour vibrancy, and overall well-being. They are omnivores, which means they eat both plant-based and meaty foods. Below are key points to consider when feeding Swordtail fish:

• Commercial Flakes or Pellets: High-quality commercial flakes or pellets specifically designed for tropical fish can form the basis of their diet. These foods are usually nutritionally balanced, providing the necessary proteins, carbohydrates, and vitamins.
• Live or Frozen Foods: Supplement the basic diet with live or frozen foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, or bloodworms. These protein-rich foods can enhance growth and colour vibrancy.
• Vegetable Matter: Swordtails also need some vegetable matter in their diet. This can be provided through blanched vegetables like spinach, peas, or zucchini. Some types of algae wafers can also be used.
• Feeding Frequency: Feed your Swordtails one to two times a day, providing only as much food as they can consume in a few minutes. Overfeeding can lead to water quality issues and health problems.
• Variety: Providing a variety of food types helps ensure that the Swordtails get a range of nutrients and keeps them interested in their food.

It’s worth noting that nutritional needs can change at different life stages or during breeding, so adjustments may be needed. Always observe your fish’s behaviour and physical condition to ensure their dietary needs are being met.

Community Living: Swordtail Fish Tank Mates

When choosing tank mates for Swordtail fish, it’s important to select other peaceful species that thrive in similar water conditions. Overly aggressive or territorial fish can cause stress to Swordtails and should be avoided. Here are a few ideal tank mates for Swordtail fish:

• Mollies: They are peaceful, come in various colours and sizes, and share similar water parameter needs with Swordtails.
• Platies: Just like Swordtails, Platies are hardy and easy to care for. They get along well with Swordtails and share similar care requirements.
• Guppies: Although smaller in size, Guppies are fast swimmers and can easily cohabit with Swordtails. They’re also livebearers, sharing similar breeding behaviours.
• Certain Types of Tetras: Some Tetras, like Neon Tetras and Black Skirt Tetras, can make good tank mates due to their peaceful nature.
• Corydoras Catfish: These bottom-dwelling fish are peaceful and can help keep the tank clean by scavenging for uneaten food.
• Certain Types of Gouramis: Gouramis like the Dwarf Gourami can be suitable tank mates as long as they are not overly territorial.
• Zebra Danios: These fast-moving, peaceful fish do well with Swordtails.

It’s important to note that male Swordtails can show aggression towards each other, especially in the presence of females. It’s best to keep one male Swordtail or have a larger ratio of females to males to help reduce this aggression.

Also, bear in mind that Swordtails can interbreed with some other species like Platies, which can lead to hybrid offspring. Some aquarists might find this interesting, while others may prefer to avoid it.

Always monitor the behaviour of the fish in the tank to ensure everyone is getting along well. If you notice any signs of bullying or stress, it might be necessary to adjust the mix of fish in your tank.

Common Possible Diseases

Like all fish, Swordtails are susceptible to various diseases. While maintaining good water quality and a balanced diet can prevent most illnesses, it’s still crucial to be aware of potential health problems. Here are some common diseases that can affect Swordtail fish:

• Ich: Also known as white spot disease, ich is a parasitic infection that causes small white spots on the fish’s body and fins. It can lead to lethargy, loss of appetite, and rubbing against objects.
• Fin Rot: This bacterial disease leads to the gradual disintegration of a fish’s fins. It usually occurs due to poor water quality or if the fish’s immune system is compromised.
• Cottonmouth: Cottonmouth, or mouth fungus, is a bacterial infection that results in a cottony growth around the mouth and damages the fish’s gills and fins.
• Swim Bladder Disease: This affects the fish’s buoyancy, causing it to float on its side or upside down. It’s usually a result of a poor diet or abrupt changes in water conditions.
• Velvet: A parasitic disease causing a dust-like coating on the fish’s body, loss of appetite, and increased respiration.

If you notice any signs of disease, it’s important to diagnose the problem accurately and start the appropriate treatment promptly. Many fish diseases are contagious, so it’s crucial to isolate the sick fish in a separate hospital tank to prevent the illness from spreading. Always consult a vet or a fish health expert for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Breeding Swordtail Fish

Should You Get a Swordtail Fish for Your Aquarium

Deciding whether to introduce Swordtail fish to your aquarium requires considering various factors. Here’s a summarised breakdown of the benefits and potential drawbacks of Swordtail fish ownership:

Benefits:

• Suitability: Swordtail fish are hardy and adaptable, making them suitable for both beginner and experienced aquarists.
• Visual Appeal: Their vibrant colours and distinctive ‘sword-like’ tail add a visual appeal to any aquarium.
• Behaviour: Swordtails are active and engaging, contributing to a lively aquarium dynamic.
• Breeding: As livebearers, they provide an exciting opportunity to observe fish birth and raise the young, adding another dimension to the fish-keeping hobby.
• Community Living: They are generally peaceful and can cohabit well with various other non-aggressive species, making them an excellent choice for community tanks.

Drawbacks:

• Tank Size Requirement: Swordtails are active swimmers and require a spacious tank, so they might not be suitable if you have limited space.
• Care Requirements: Like all fish, Swordtails need regular care, including a balanced diet and specific water conditions to thrive.
• Potential Aggression: Male Swordtails can sometimes show aggression towards each other, especially in the presence of females.

In summary, Swordtail fish can be a fantastic addition to your aquarium if you’re prepared for the regular tank maintenance, can provide an adequately sized aquarium, and appreciate active, visually appealing fish. However, potential drawbacks such as the need for significant swimming space and some care requirements should also be factored into the decision.

FAQ

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The Bichir is a fantastic and rare freshwater fish that will add a Jurassic look to your aquarium.

These little dragon-looking fish are one of our favourites thanks to their quirky personalities and unique look.

If you want to own one of these ancient-looking fish, you’ll need to know how to keep it healthy and happy. This is where the knowledge in this guide comes into play.

In the sections below, you’ll find everything you need to know about caring for your new Bichir or whether it’s a good fit for your aquarium.

Origins / History: Bichir

The Bichir is a fascinating fish that has been around for millions of years. It was first discovered in the 1800s, and it’s believed to have originated from Africa in the region of the Nile.

Bichir’s are mainly freshwater fish but they can also tolerate saltwater or brackish water.

Bichirs prefer shallow, swampy waters and can be found in mixtures of freshwater and salt water. Their build makes them suitable for this kind of habitat, but as a result they have remained unchanged for such a long period of time.

As the Bichir’s often live in murky waters, they never developed good vision. As such , they’ve developed a keen sense of smell to compensate. This is how Bichir’s locate their food in murky waters and feed on insects, worms, crustaceans and small fish.

Contrary to popular belief, not all Bichir’s are carnivores- some will eat plants and algae as well.

Fluvico

Lifespan, Behaviour & Types of Bichir

The lifespan of the Dinosaur Bichir can be as high as 15-20 years, with males living for a slightly shorter period of time than females. These fish are generally shy and avoid contact with other fish.

But, the Bichir can vary depending on the water conditions. In general they have a lifespan of up to 20 years in an aquarium, but wild specimens that live in freshwater and muddy waters as opposed to clear or saltwater are observed living for 40-60 years.

Ornate Bichir can have a lifespan of up to 12 years, with males living for a slightly shorter period of time than females.

The Bichir’s mouth is on its underside so it goes upside down often during feeding times which make them particularly vulnerable creatures because other species will then prey on them.

In an aquarium, Bichir will usually find a hiding place in rocks or plants to avoid being eaten by other fish as they hide upside down with their mouths open waiting for food. They sometimes use their sharp teeth to catch prey like worms, crustaceans and small fish.

The most common Bichir Behaviour is that they lay on the bottom of their tank in a huddled ball. The second most common behavious is that they will lie on top of the water and sulk.

The Bichir is a fish that needs to be fed less than other species in an aquarium setting because it does not require as much food as larger predatory fishes do. However, most people feed them twice per day which means feeding them once every two days instead would be ideal.

The Dinosaur Bichir

The Dinosaur Bichir is the only Bichir species that is able to survive in freshwater. The other types of Bichirs usually live their entire lives in salt water (these are called marine bichirs).

You can recognise the Dinosaur Bichir by its long, sharp fins and its pointed nose. They come in a variety of colours, such as green or brown.

Albino Bichir

The Albino Bichir has a distinctive pink hue and is a lot more vulnerable to predators because the colouration makes it easy for other species to spot them.

The Albino Bichir has also been known to have additional mutations that make it difficult for their bodies to function properly in salt water, as they are not able to process ions or maintain osmotic balance.

Saddled Bichir

The Saddled Bichir has a pointed nose and its eyes are set far apart.

It’s scales have a pattern of dots that look like saddlebags, hence the name.

Saddled Bichirs get their common name from the saddles they grow on their skin when they reach maturity. These adults can be up to ten inches in length making them one of the largest Bichirs.

The Saddled Bichir is also known for being one of the most aggressive species in the family, and they have been seen harassing other animals like catfish to steal their food at times.

Delhezi Bichir

The Delhezi Bichir is a feisty little fish that is often mistaken for the common Bichir.

Their scales are brown and it has a pronounced tail fin to help them swim efficiently in water.

The Delhezi Bichir gets its name from the Zulu word “delhisi” which means “to dig.” This type of Bichir digs for food and will often use its tail fin to turn over the sand.

Delhezi Bichirs are found in Africa, but they also live in fresh water streams that flow into rivers like Lake Malaŵi.

The Delhezi Bichir is the smallest type of Bichir and they are not typically found in aquariums as pets.

Ornate Bichir

Finally, the Ornate Bichir is a gorgeous Bichir that is often found in the wild.

Their scales are black and white, but they do not have any spots like other types of Bichirs.

Ornate Bichirs grow to around six inches long and can be commonly seen on rocks or plants near water sources. The Ornate Bichir Prefers to feed on smaller fish, crustaceans and insects.

The Ornate Bichir is a carnivorous type of Bichirs, so it will eat anything that fits in its mouth which can include other types of water-dwelling animals like frogs or even small turtles!

This type of Bichir is often seen in the wild because they are not too picky about where they live. They can easily survive in a variety of different water sources and habitats, which is why Ornate Bichirs have been found all over the world!

Food & Diet

– Bichirs are carnivores, their diet consists of live fish and worms.

– They rarely accept dead food from the surface or in the water column.

– As a rule of thumb, feed them once every two days with small pieces of meat (about one centimeter) for adults, juveniles can be fed twice as often but make sure they get enough to eat.

If you have more than one bichir and want to keep them satisfied so that there is no fighting over food among themselves then it’s best if all bichirs alternate feeding periods together at about four hours each day during which either everyone feeds or nobody eats for this period.

Bichirs are carnivorous creatures, which means that they require a substantial supply of meat in their diets. In addition, bichirs dine at night; this is another factor that sets them apart from most popular freshwater fishes.

Tank Size / Parameters

Bichirs are quite large fish so you will need a tank that is appropriate for their size. I would recommend at least 100 gallons of water and ideally, the larger the better! Bichirs like to hide in plants or other dark places within tanks with low lighting so they prefer darker spaces. The depth of your bichir’s tank should be at least 24-36 inches.

In terms of water parameters, Bichirs prefer a pH of around neutral. They also need both soft and hard water so it is recommended that you have at least two filters in their tank to provide these different parameters.

• Water temperature: 74°F to 82°F (23 – 29 Celsius)
• pH levels: 6.2 to 7.8
• Water hardness: Soft

The Bichir is a fairly hardy fish so they don’t require much attention. They only need feeding once per day and should be given carnivorous foods like shrimp, crickets or blood worms. It’s best to feed them in the evenings as daytime feeding can often result in too many leftover food particles left uneaten which could cause water quality issues via algae growth!

Bichirs are known for being escape artists so it may be worth investing in an extra heavy duty tank cover that will help prevent escapes! You also want your bichir to have enough rocks or other decorations that allow him/her to easily hide from view.

Don’t forget about filtration either – these large fish produce loads of waste, so it’s crucial to have a good filtration system!

✓ Bichirs only need feeding once per day and should be given carnivorous foods like shrimp, crickets or blood worms.

✓ Bichirs are known for being escape artists so it may be worth investing in an extra heavy duty tank cover that will help prevent escapes! You also want your bichir to have enough rocks or other decorations that allow him/her to easily hide from view.

✓ Don’t forget about the filter – these large fish produce loads of waste, so it’s crucial to have a good filtration system!

Suitable Tank Mates For Bichir

So you’ve decided you’re going to get some Bichir, what you’ll want to know next is what are some suitable tank mates?

Some good tank mates for Bichir are:

– Texas Cichlid

– Red Tailed Shark

– Rainbow shark.

Note that the red tailed and rainbow sharks will need a large aquarium as they can grow up to be huge fish! You’ll also want to make sure you have an extra heavy duty cover on your tank in case your bichirs manages to escape.*

And if you’re concerned about compatibility, don’t worry – these fish tend to get along well with each other because of their similar temperaments. However, it’s worth keeping in mind that while some species may not bother them, others might see a potential meal when they look at one of these bottom dwelling fish!

Be careful about adding any invertebrates as well; they’re on the menu for Bichir.

“Bichirs are peaceful creatures by nature, but be aware that there may be issues with aggression when placing multiple males together.”

says John Harrison from The Tropical Fish Shop in London.

Breeding Bichir

Bichirs are one of the best beginner fish species. Bichir’s breeding is relatively easy, although getting their eggs to hatch can be frustrating even for seasoned breeders.

The key to successfully breeding these bottom-dwelling ‘living fossils’ is a healthy diet and plenty of hiding places in which they feel safe. There should also be enough plants throughout the tank that Bichirs can easily find cover so they don’t get eaten by other fish while trying to protect their eggs from predators.

Breeding bichirs requires at least two females and three males, since it takes a male and female pair to produce fertile offspring; ideally you want an odd number because there will always be some unfinished breeding cycles.

While it’s possible to raise bichirs from eggs, they are much easier to keep if you start with fry and grow them up before breeding them. This allows a breeder to get their feeding timing down pat so the fry can become bigger faster than those that were spawned naturally in an incubator or tank full of adult fish. As long as there is plenty for the young Bichir to eat, they will be strong enough not only to make it through hatching but also survive outside of their parents’ protection until they have developed some natural defences against predators themselves.

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As with any other hobby, the aquarium scene is full of myths and misconceptions that mislead people into making unfortunate mistakes or missing out on many opportunities.

Here, we’ll debunk 7 common aquarium myths so that you won’t have to learn the hard way. Let’s quash the fallacies and reveal the facts!

Live Plants Are Hard To Keep

Our first myth is unsurprisingly one we’d love to debunk the most! One of the saddest things about the aquarium hobby is how many people start out imagining or hearing that live plants are difficult to keep, only to miss out on one of the most fulfilling elements of keeping an aquarium.

While it’s true that certain species of aquatic plants should only be attempted by experts, there are also endless plants that are incredibly easy, beautiful, and fun to keep. Take Java moss and Java fern for example, virtually indestructible plants that can even be tied to rocks and pieces of driftwood.

Another classic choice for beginners is the Amazon sword, whose elegant pointed leaves are a joy to watch swaying in the aquarium’s gentle current. Then there are floating plants such as frogbit and water sprite that create a lovely dappled shade and a natural aesthetic to the tank without fuss or worry.

Not only are plants beautiful and fun, but they also provide hiding places for your aquarium fish and filter the water to improve water quality. To find out more about plants that are a doddle to keep, check out our guide to 8 of the best beginner plants, here.

Almost All Fish Require a Heater

Another myth that even experienced fish keepers often believe is that almost all fish species require an aquarium heater.

In most people’s minds, cold water aquariums are confined to goldfish and guppies, and little more. Yet as long as your aquarium is in a reasonably warm room that remains above 65°F, you might be amazed at the options you have.

Buenos Aires tetra, bloodfin tetra, zebra danios, celestial pearl danios, peppered cories, Japanese rice fish, and rainbow mountain minnows are but a few of the small schooling fish that can be kept in coldwater setups. As well as guppies, Endler’s livebearers and mosquito fish are good examples of hardy livebearers.

Slightly larger species that can be kept without a heater include rosy barbs, golden barbs, and paradise fish. Advanced aquarists could also consider rainbow shiners (Notropis chrosomus), and pumpkin seeds (Lepomis gibbosus). As for invertebrates, most freshwater shrimp and many snails can live in unheated aquaria.

Not only do coldwater tanks offer a novelty that saves energy, but they also naturally have higher oxygen levels, with many species living longer lives than they would in tropical tanks.

Filters Are Not Essential

While some aquariums can go without a heater, none should be left without a filter. Aquarium filters perform so many vital roles that attempting to go without one only puts your fish in danger, and yourself under a lot of stress.

Firstly, filters are the primary home of beneficial bacteria in the tank that convert deadly ammonia into relatively harmless nitrates. Even going a day without a filter could see your fish wind up with ammonia poisoning.

Then there are the cleaning and aerating roles that filters fulfill. Without these, you’ll need to clean the tank and change the aquarium water daily just to keep it clean and oxygenated. Since filters are so affordable and easy to maintain, why take the risk?

Okay, okay, there is one very small caveat. The ‘Diana Walstad method’ is an innovative yet complex method of filtering and aerating water with plants alone, but to avoid disaster, it should never be attempted by anyone but the most advanced fish keepers!

Fish Can Live Happily in Bowls

Oh no, they can’t! If you’ve been following our discussion on why goldfish bowls should be banned, you’ll know why.

First of all, fish bowls normally don’t have filters, and we’ve already discussed why that’s a non-starter. Secondly, the curved glass of a fish bowl distorts the fish’s vision, causing it constant stress as it struggles to identify the reflections and warped appearances from outside the tank.

The small water capacity of goldfish bowls also often means constant fluctuations in water chemistry that can severely shock, if not kill fish outright. Sadly, many people believe that goldfish are only supposed to live for a few years, when kept in the right way, they can exceed twenty!

When hobbyists begin to understand how smart fish are, they will resolve not to keep fish in such cruel conditions.

Fish Are Not Smart

Following on from the cruelty of keeping fish in bowls, it’s time to debunk the notion that fish are stupid, unaware, and don’t suffer.

At Aquariadise, we’ve written plenty about the remarkable feats of fish intelligence. Not only can pet fish learn tricks and recognize their owners, but they can also complete tasks that are normally associated with highly evolved animals.

By shooting insects from foliage above the water, archerfish are included in the list of animals that use tools. By using an electromagnetic field, elephant nose fish can navigate in the dark. And by remembering skills taught to them years ago, goldfish are fast dispelling the misnomer about their ‘5-second memory’!

By observing your fish with an open mind, you’ll begin to discover just how complex and advanced their behavior and interactions are. It’ll give you a new appreciation of a fish’s inner world, and cause you to treat them with a new level of admiration and respect.

Small Tanks Are Easier To Maintain

A rather dangerous myth or misconception among newbie fish keepers is that small tanks must be easier to manage and maintain. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth.

Firstly, we need to understand that no fish, no matter how small, should be kept in a tank of less than 5 gallons. Doing so is extremely cruel, and such small tanks should be reserved for plants, shrimp, and snails only.

But managing stable water parameters in any tank that’s under 20 gallons in capacity isn’t easy either. Because there is less water volume to buffer fluctuations, water chemistry, and temperature can change extremely quickly, putting their inhabitants at great risk.

For a first aquarium, we’d thoroughly recommend a medium-sized 20- to 55-gallon tank that will have much more stable water parameters and also provide more room for fish (especially schooling fish) to enjoy their lives thoroughly.

Fish Can Live on Dried Food Alone

Man cannot live on bread alone. If he did, he’d get malnourished very quickly. Likewise, fish that live solely on flake food or fish pellets are highly unlikely to reach optimum health or appearance due to a dull, monotonous diet.

Because fish species have evolved over millions of years to eat natural food items like algae, insects, worms, and crustaceans, they do best when given similar types of food in captivity, too.

While it might feel like a hassle to stock live foods, or thaw out frozen foods every day for your fish to eat, even offering your fish these healthy snacks twice a week will make a big difference.

You’ll notice immediately how excited and feisty your fish become as you offer them their favorite foods, and how their eyes, scales, fins, and colors all begin to glow more brightly as a result of the extra nourishment.

Proper feeding may even get some fish in the mood for breeding! Now there’s a bonus worth shooting for. To read more about live and frozen foods, as well as vegetables to feed fish, check out our dedicated guide, here.

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