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Mastering African Water Fern Care: A Complete Guide

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African Water ferns or Bolbitis Heudelotii are a type of aquatic plant that is native to tropical rainforests. They are characterized by their delicate, feathery leaves and their ability to grow in a variety of conditions. Water ferns are a popular choice for aquariums, as they can help to improve water quality and provide a natural habitat for fish and other aquatic life.

African water fern close-upAfrican water fern close-up

Quick fact about African Water Fern Plants

Fact Details
Scientific Name Bolbitis Heudelotii
Common Name African Water Fern
Native Region Africa and Asia
Max Size (Approx) Up to 18 inches (45 cm)
Lighting Requirements Prefers low to medium light
Water Conditions pH 6.0-7.0, Temperature 68-82 degrees °C
Growth Rate Slow
Tank Placement Attached to Decor

What is an African Water Fern?

The African Water Fern, scientifically known as Bolbitis Heudelotii, is a captivating addition to any aquarium. Native to the damp, shaded regions of Africa and Asia, this plant thrives in both submerged and semi-aquatic environments.

Its feathery, lace-like leaves create an aesthetic appeal, while its slow growth and adaptability make it a low-maintenance choice for all aquarists. Patience is key with this plant, but over time, it brings a lush, enduring beauty to any aquarium

African water fern propagateAfrican water fern propagate

What About Watering Ferns with Epsom Salt?

Some people recommend watering ferns with Epsom salt, a mineral compound made of magnesium and sulfate. Epsom salt is said to help ferns grow lush and green by providing them with magnesium and sulphate, which are essential nutrients for plant growth.

However, there is no scientific evidence to support the claim that watering ferns with Epsom salt is beneficial. In fact, some experts believe that Epsom salt can actually be harmful to ferns, as it can raise the pH of the water and make it more alkaline.

If you are considering watering your ferns with Epsom salt, it is important to do your research and weigh the risks and benefits. There is no guarantee that Epsom salt will help your ferns grow better, and it may actually do more harm than good.

Here are some of the potential risks of watering ferns with Epsom salt:

  • Epsom salt can raise the pH of the water, making it more alkaline. This can stress the plant and make it more susceptible to disease.
  • Epsom salt can burn the roots of the plant.
  • Epsom salt can make the leaves of the plant yellow.

If you are looking for a way to improve the health of your ferns, there are other, more effective methods. Here are a few tips:

  • Provide your ferns with bright, indirect light.
  • Fertilize your ferns regularly with a balanced fertilizer.
  • Trim your ferns regularly to keep them healthy and prevent them from becoming overgrown.
  • Keep the water in your aquarium or pond clean and free of debris.

Vivariums

The African Water Fern, or Bolbitis Heudelotii, is versatile and can thrive in several types of vivariums. Here are some common setups where this fern can be incorporated:

Aquariums: This is perhaps the most common setup for the Ferns. It thrives in both fully submerged and semi-aquatic conditions. Its elegant, feathery fronds create an attractive backdrop and provide excellent cover for fish and invertebrates.

Paludariums: These are setups that combine terrestrial and aquatic elements, usually with part of the tank filled with water and part left dry to mimic a riverside or shoreline. The Water Fern can be situated in the water or on the water line, adding a lush, green aesthetic to the landscape.

Terrariums: Although not as common, the plant can also be grown in high-humidity terrariums, especially those designed to mimic a rainforest environment. Here, the fern can be placed in a shaded area with high humidity, but care should be taken to ensure the soil doesn’t become waterlogged.

Ripariums: Similar to paludariums, ripariums simulate a riverbank environment, but the terrestrial part is much more reduced, almost resembling a marsh. The Fern can be attached to driftwood or rocks placed semi-submerged in the water, where it can grow in and out of the water.

Growing African Water Ferns

Tank Sep up

Setting up a tank for African Water Fern involves a few key steps:

  • Choose the Right Tank Consider a medium to large tank as Water Fern can grow up to 18 inches. Make sure it’s watertight and clean.
  • Substrate Ferns grow by attaching their rhizomes to objects, so you can opt for a basic gravel or sand substrate. However, if you plan on having other plants that root in the substrate, consider a nutrient-rich aquatic plant substrate.
  •  Install Lighting Install a low to medium intensity aquarium light. Set it on a timer to mimic natural day-night cycles.
  • Set Up Filtration Install an aquarium filter suitable for the size of your tank. This will help maintain water quality by removing excess nutrients and waste.
  • Set Up Heating Install a water heater to maintain a consistent water temperature between 68 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 28 degrees Celsius).
  • Water Conditions Fill the tank with dechlorinated water and use a water testing kit to check the pH level. Aim for slightly acidic to neutral water (pH 6.0 to 7.0).
  • Add Décor Add items such as rocks, driftwood, or ornaments for the fern to anchor onto.

Planting African Water Fern

Planting Water Fern i involves a few straightforward steps:

Step 1: Select a Suitable Object

Choose an item for the plant to anchor onto. This could be a piece of driftwood, a rock, or any aquarium-safe decoration.

Step 2: Preparation

Take your Fern plant and gently clean any debris from the rhizomes, being careful not to damage them.

Step 3: Attachmen

Wrap the rhizome of the plant around your chosen object. It’s okay if it doesn’t wrap completely, as it will grow and cover the surface over time.

Step 4: Secure the Plant

Use fishing line or cotton thread to secure the plant to the object. The line or thread should be snug but not overly tight, so as not to damage the plant.

Step 5: Positioning

Place your newly planted plant into the aquarium, ideally in a location with low to medium light.

Step 6: Patience

Wait for the plant to establish itself naturally. It will slowly but surely start to grow and cover the surface of the object, adding a beautiful touch of greenery to your aquarium.

African water fern- n small tankAfrican water fern- n small tank

Growth Rate and Height

Bolbitis Heudelotii is a slow grower, which makes it easy to manage in both small and large aquarium settings. While its pace might test your patience, the wait is worth it as it gradually develops into an eye-catching feature in your setup.

In terms of height, it’s no small fry either. With optimal care and conditions, this fern can reach a height of up to 18 inches. Remember, steady growth means a healthier plant, so sit back and enjoy the gradual unfurling of each new leaf.

Co2 Requirement

Water Ferns can thrive without additional CO2 supplementation. It’s quite adaptable and capable of growing in a variety of conditions, including tanks with low CO2 levels.

However, if you’re aiming for a denser, more lush growth or have a densely planted tank, supplemental CO2 can be beneficial. It can boost the plant’s growth and help it reach its full potential faster.

While CO2 supplementation can enhance the fern’s growth, it’s not a strict necessity. Consistently monitoring and maintaining other factors like lighting, temperature, and water pH also play significant roles in the plant’s overall health and growth.

African water fern small potAfrican water fern small pot

How to Trim

  • Identify: Start by identifying the parts of the fern that need trimming. Look for leaves that are yellowing, brown, or show signs of disease.
  • Prepare: Equip yourself with a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors to ensure clean cuts and minimal damage to the plant.
  • Cut: Trim away the affected leaves at the base, near the rhizome. Be careful not to damage the rhizome or healthy leaves.
  • Remove: After trimming, remove the cut leaves from the water immediately. Decaying plant material can lead to poor water conditions.
  • Monitor: Observe the fern after trimming. It should start growing new leaves from the rhizome.

African Water Ferns the Right Way: Some Best Practices

Watering ferns, especially water ferns like Bolbitis Heudelotii, deviates from typical houseplant watering. Rather than direct watering, they thrive in specific aquatic environments. Here are some best practices to ensure your ferns are watered the right way:

  • Cleanliness: Regularly change a portion of the water in your tank, depending on its size and fauna. This helps maintain a clean environment and reduces the chances of disease and algae growth.
  • Fertilizer: Although not a must, you can consider using a water-soluble fertilizer. However, be careful with the amount, as too much can lead to excessive algae growth.
  • No Overcrowding: Ensure your ferns have enough space to grow. Overcrowding can hinder growth and lead to competition for resources.
African water fern tank matesAfrican water fern tank mates

Tank Mates

African Water Fern, is a peaceful plant that generally pairs well with a variety of tank mates. Here are a few suggestions:

Fish: Due to its sturdy structure, the fern can handle various species of fish. Smaller fish like tetras, guppies, or rasboras will appreciate the cover the fern provides. Larger, peaceful fish, such as angelfish or discus, can also share a tank with this fern. However, avoid housing the fern with plant-eating fish or those known for uprooting plants.

Shrimp and Snails: These invertebrates make excellent tank mates for the African Water Fern. They help clean the tank by consuming algae and leftover food, contributing to a healthier environment for your fern.

Other Plants: Ferns gets along well with other aquatic plants. It can create a pleasing backdrop for foreground plants like Anubias or Java Moss.

FAQ

Is Water Fern Easy to Grow?

Yes, Bolbitis Heudelotii is relatively easy to grow. It’s a resilient plant that adapts well to various conditions, making it a great choice for beginners. Despite its slow growth, with consistent care, it flourishes into a beautiful aquatic fern.

Can Water Fern grow emersed?

While Bolbitis Heudelotii thrives when fully or semi-submerged, it can also grow emersed in humid conditions. However, the transition from submerged to emersed growth should be gradual to prevent the plant from experiencing shock.

Is Water Fern an invasive species?

Yes, African water fern is an invasive species. It is a fast-growing, free-floating fern that can form dense mats on the surface of water. This can block sunlight, reduce oxygen levels, and outcompete native plants.

What are the negative effects of Water Ferns?

While water ferns like Bolbitis Heudelotii are generally beneficial in aquariums, they can potentially cause issues if not properly managed. Overgrowth can obstruct light to other plants, and decayed fern matter can negatively impact water quality if not promptly removed.


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How To Grow Live Phyto – Step by Step Guide

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Why raise live phyto? Well, they are an important part of the food chain in a reef tank. Phytoplankton is a small, photosynthetic, micro-algae that takes in nutrients and carbon dioxide to create fatty acids that are very important for all organisms in the tank. Phyto is consumed by filter feeders and copepods, which can pass the fatty acids on to fish that consume the pods. A big plus is the fact that corals will also consume phyto. Side benefits are the reduction of nitrates and phosphates and a higher PH.

The Basic Setup

What are the steps for setting up live phyto cultures? You essentially need to provide a clean environment for the phytoplankton to grow, some air to keep the water moving and oxygenated, a light source, some food, and a starter culture.

For growing containers you can use some one gallon transparent bottles. Target has some distilled water bottles that are perfect to raise phyto. Poland Spring sells some water containers that seem to be just as good as the Target containers, but they are a bit smaller. I ended up using four Poland Spring bottles.

Poland Spring 3 liter bottle

The dilution factor for creating a phyto culture is one to one so you will want to fill one half of the container with a phyto culture and the other half with freshly mixed saltwater. Don’t use established tank water since it will contain bacteria that can contaminate the culture.

The Poland Spring containers can hold about one hundred ounces of liquid so I mixed fifty ounces of phyto culture with fifty ounces of fresh saltwater inside each container. The specific gravity of the saltwater to add to the culture should be 1.020 but going up to 1.026 is fine.

Feeding the Cultures

The other thing you will need to add to each container is some fertilizer to feed the phyto. Buy a small bottle since it is not good for it to sit around for a while. After six months it can lose its potency or go bad. I used this fertilizer from Amazon. The fertilizer should be stored in a cool and dry place, not a refrigerator.

1 milliliter of fertilizer should be used for one gallon of phyto. You can use a 1 milliliter syringe, I use one from a Salifert test kit, to measure out the fertilizer. Just make sure you sanitize the syringe after each use by rinsing it with some tap water and then with some hydrogen peroxide.

Inside each container I connected one quarter inch rigid airline tubing to a one quarter inch John Guest bulkhead union, which I inserted through a hole I drilled in the cap of the bottle. A one quarter inch John Guest Stem Barb Connector was connected to the top of the bulkhead to accommodate the one quarter inch flexible tubing that runs to the air pump.

Aeration

I use two air pumps, one pump each for two bottles of phyto. Make sure you drill one small hole in the bottle cap to vent out the air being forced into the bottle. Don’t use an air stone at the end of the rigid tubing.

As for lighting, any cheap T5 fixture with horticulture bulbs will do. I picked up a fixture from Amazon that is twenty four inches long and has four twenty four watt bulbs. It is perfect for lighting up four bottles of phyto. I turned the fixture on its side to maximize the amount of light illuminating the containers, which are about five to six inches away. The light stays on for twelve hours a day.

lighting for growing phytoplankton

The culture should be grown for one week and then stored in a refrigerator, where it can last for up to a month. The temperature in the room where the cultures are being grown should be between seventy to eighty degrees Fahrenheit. The culture will not grow as fast if it is too cold.

Keep Things Clean

You can reuse the bottles to grow new cultures but they need to be sanitized. Clean them with approximately hundred milliliters of hydrogen peroxide. Cover the cap of the bottle and shake it for a minute so that the hydrogen peroxide can coat the inside of the bottle. Let it stand for a minute or two and then empty the container.

Hydrogen peroxide will rapidly degrade to water and oxygen so you can use the bottle after that. Take the rigid airline tubing out and rinse it separately with water and then with hydrogen peroxide.

How Much to Dose

In terms of how much Phyto to add to a tank, you can start by dosing one ounce of phyto for every fifty gallons of system water. Include the sump in your calculations.

The dosage is just an estimate, more or less is no big deal. You can go up to two ounces per twenty-five gallons of system water. Consumption of the phyto will depend on how well the tank is stocked with corals. There is no harm to over dose. If you see green dust growing on the tank walls, then you can back down a little.

If you have a UV sterilizer make sure you shut it off for an hour after dosing phyto. It will also help to shut off the skimmer. The best time to dose is when the polyps on LPS, SPS and softies are out the most so any time after the lights are out during the evening or morning.

Additional Resources

If you would like some help with a new tank build, including help designing a custom aquarium, or help re-configuring your current setup then you can visit this page for more information. And if you are looking to add some equipment, I do sell GHLPax BellumReef Octopus Calcium and Kalk Reactors and Royal Exclusiv products, including Dreamboxes, which is the equipment I use and recommend. I also sell Reef Brite metal halide and LED fixtures as well as Maxspect & IceCap Gyres.

As for additional insights and information, please explore my many other reef tank and SPS related articles as well as my YouTube channel. For an even deeper dive into reef tank care you can check out my Reef Keeping Master Class. This online course is an immersive and one of a kind educational tool designed to help reef aquarium hobbyists build and maintain a beautiful SPS reef tank. The course is a series of video presentations with some supplemental video from my YouTube channel. There are also quizzes to help students retain and understand the information presented in the course.

Need some frags…..I can help with that as well 🙂 Please visit my SPS Frag store to see what is available.



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16 Unique Low Light Aquarium Plants (Mosses, Ferns & Stem)

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Low light aquarium? Shaded spot? Beginner Tank? We got you covered!

Whether you just want the ease and convenience of maintenance-free low light aquarium plants, or have a specialised low-light pro setup. These are the best aquarium Mosses, Ferns and Stem Plants that are available widely worldwide.

As a beginner, having a low-light friendly plant means you don’t have to worry about optimal high-end lighting. The plants below will thrive regardless. The downside, is that they’ll often grow slowly, taking time to fill out.

The upside… less tank maintenance.

Low-light Mosses

Not all aquarium mosses grow well in low light conditions, but many do. Mosses are generally adaptable and hardy plants that can tolerate a range of light intensities.

In nature, mosses often grow in shaded or partially shaded areas, such as on tree trunks or rocks, where light levels can be low. This ability to grow in low light environments has evolved as a survival strategy for these plants.

In an aquarium, mosses like Java Moss and Marimo Moss Balls are popular choices for low light setups. They can grow and thrive with minimal lighting, although their growth rate may be slower compared to higher light conditions.

Providing consistent and stable lighting, even at low intensities, will ensure that your mosses remain healthy and continue to grow.

Java Moss Nano TankJava Moss Nano Tank

Java Moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri)

Java Moss is a hardy, beginner-friendly moss that’s perfect for low light aquariums. It can easily attach to rocks, driftwood, or other surfaces, creating a beautiful green carpet. Java Moss requires minimal maintenance and provides a great hiding place for small fish and shrimp.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: 4 inches (10 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a variety of water conditions, prefers cooler temperatures and gentle water flow
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
Marimo Moss Balls with ShrimpMarimo Moss Balls with Shrimp

Marimo Moss Balls (Aegagropila linnaei)

These unique, round-shaped moss balls are not only eye-catching but also extremely easy to care for. They’re perfect for beginners and low light setups, requiring minimal maintenance. Marimo Moss Balls help improve water quality by absorbing excess nutrients and provide a fun play area for fish.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 8 inches (20 cm) diameter
  • Thrive Conditions: Cooler temperatures, can tolerate a range of water conditions
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Marimo Moss Care Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

Low-Light Ferns

Not all aquarium ferns grow well in low light conditions, but many do. Those that thrive in low light environments, such as Java Fern and African Water Fern, adapted to survive in their natural habitats, where light is limited due to dense foliage, murky water, or deep water.

Evolving to photosynthesise at low light levels makes the Ferns listed below perfect for low-light aquariums or planting in shaded spots.

Java Fern Large HealthyJava Fern Large Healthy

Java Fern (Microsorum pteropus)

Java Fern is an attractive, hardy plant that thrives in low light conditions. It’s beginner-friendly and can be attached to driftwood, rocks, or other decorations. Java Fern is slow-growing and doesn’t require much maintenance, making it a great choice for new aquarium hobbyists.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 13.5 inches (35 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a wide range of water conditions, prefers being attached to hardscape
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Java Fern Care Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

Water Fern Bolbitis heudelotii  in aquariumWater Fern Bolbitis heudelotii  in aquarium

African Water Fern (Bolbitis heudelotii)

This beautiful fern can add a touch of elegance to your low light aquarium. It’s beginner-friendly and can be attached to driftwood or rocks. African Water Fern prefers stable water parameters and benefits from CO2 supplementation, but it’s not necessary for its growth.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 16 inches (40 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Prefers warmer temperatures and good water flow, likes being attached to hardscape
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
Bolbitis heteroclita (Creeping Fern)Bolbitis heteroclita (Creeping Fern)

Bolbitis heteroclita (Creeping Fern)

Bolbitis heteroclita, also known as Creeping Fern, is an attractive and intriguing plant that’s adapt to low light conditions. This plant is beginner-friendly due to its hardiness and ability to tolerate a wide range of water conditions. Creeping Fern is an epiphytic plant, meaning it prefers to attach itself to hardscape elements like driftwood, rocks, or other decorations in your aquarium.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 10 inches (25 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Prefers good water flow, enjoys being attached to hardscape
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
Water Sprite Ceratopteris thalictroidesWater Sprite Ceratopteris thalictroides

Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

Although not a true fern, Water Sprite has a fern-like appearance and is an excellent low light plant. It can be grown floating or rooted in the substrate, providing cover for fish and invertebrates. Water Sprite is easy to care for and suitable for beginners.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 20 inches (50 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Grows both submerged and floating, prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Stem Plants

Healthy AnubiasHealthy Anubias

Anubias (Anubias spp.)

Anubias plants are hardy, slow-growing, and perfect for low light aquariums. They’re beginner-friendly and can be attached to rocks, driftwood, or decorations. Anubias is available in various species, offering different leaf shapes and sizes to suit your aquarium’s aesthetic.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Varies by species, typically up to 16 inches (40 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a wide range of water conditions, prefers being attached to hardscape
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Anubuas Care Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

CryptocoryneCryptocoryne

Cryptocoryne (Cryptocoryne spp.)

Cryptocoryne, or “Crypts,” are adaptable plants that can thrive in low light conditions. They’re beginner-friendly and available in various species with different colours and leaf shapes.

Related: 15 Common & Rare Types of Cryptocoryne

Related: Cryptocoryne ‘Crypts’ Full Care & Growth Guide

Be patient, as Crypts may experience “melting” when first introduced to the tank, but they’ll bounce back with proper care.

  • Lighting: Low to moderate light needed
  • Max Size: Varies by species, typically up to 12 inches (30 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Tolerates a wide range of water parameters, prefers nutrient-rich substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
Amazon SwordAmazon Sword

Amazon Sword (Echinodorus spp.)

Amazon Swords are striking plants with large, sword-like leaves that make a great centerpiece in low light aquariums. They’re beginner-friendly and can be planted in the substrate. Amazon Swords may benefit from root tabs for added nutrients, but overall, they’re easy to care for.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 20 inches (50 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH, benefits from nutrient-rich substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
VallisneriaVallisneria

Vallisneria (Vallisneria spp.)

Vallisneria (Vallisneria spp.): Vallisneria, or “Vals,” are long, grass-like plants that can create a beautiful underwater landscape in low light conditions. They’re easy to care for and suitable for beginners. Vals can reproduce by sending out runners, filling in empty spaces in your aquarium.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 6 feet (183 cm) long, depending on the species
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a variety of water conditions, prefers sandy substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes (Yellows/Browns easily)
Water-Wisteria-and-goldfishWater-Wisteria-and-goldfish

Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis)

Water Wisteria is a versatile, fast-growing plant that can thrive in low light settings. It’s beginner-friendly and can be grown floating or rooted in the substrate. Water Wisteria provides excellent shelter for fish and invertebrates and helps maintain water quality.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 20 inches (50 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a range of water parameters, prefers nutrient-rich substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Water Wisteria Care Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

Beautiful Nano Tank with HornwortBeautiful Nano Tank with Hornwort

Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)

Hornwort is a hardy, fast-growing plant that can adapt well to low light conditions. It’s beginner-friendly and can be grown floating or anchored in the substrate. Hornwort is an excellent oxygenator and provides shelter for fish and invertebrates, making it a valuable addition to your aquarium.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 10 feet (3 m) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Tolerates a wide range of water conditions, prefers to float freely
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Hornwort Care Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

Dwarf SagittariaDwarf Sagittaria

Dwarf Sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)

Dwarf Sagittaria is a grass-like plant that can grow well in low light conditions. It’s easy to care for and suitable for beginners. Dwarf Sagittaria can spread across your aquarium’s substrate, creating a lush carpet that offers shelter and foraging opportunities for fish and invertebrates.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 12 inches (30 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Adapts to a variety of water conditions, prefers sandy substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
HygrophilaHygrophila

Hygrophila (Hygrophila spp.)

Hygrophila plants are hardy and adaptable, making them an excellent choice for low light aquariums. They’re beginner-friendly and available in various species with different leaf shapes and growth patterns. Hygrophila plants can be planted in the substrate and will benefit from occasional pruning to maintain their shape.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Varies by species, typically up to 24 inches (60 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH, benefits from nutrient-rich substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes
Healthy PennywortHealthy Pennywort

Brazilian Pennywort (Hydrocotyle leucocephala)

Brazilian Pennywort is a versatile plant that can grow well in low light conditions. It’s beginner-friendly and can be grown floating or rooted in the substrate. Brazilian Pennywort provides excellent cover for fish and invertebrates, and its fast growth helps improve water quality.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 24 inches (60 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Tolerates a wide range of water conditions, can grow both submerged and floating
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

Full Brazilian Hornwort Guide (Grow, Propagate, FAQs, & Tips)

Rotala RotundifoliaRotala Rotundifolia

Rotala Rotundifolia (Rotala rotundifolia)

Rotala Rotundifolia is a colorful stem plant that can adapt to low light conditions. Although it may not display its most vibrant colors without higher light, it’s still an attractive and easy-to-care-for plant that’s suitable for beginners. Rotala Rotundifolia can be planted in the substrate and benefits from regular trimming to maintain a bushy appearance.

  • Lighting: Moderate to high light needed
  • Max Size: Up to 15 inches (38 cm) long
  • Thrive Conditions: Prefers slightly acidic to neutral pH, benefits from nutrient-rich substrate
  • Beginner Friendly: Yes

What’s your favourite plant that grows well with low-lighting? Comment below!


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The University Of Hawai’i At Hilo Is Bringing Conservation To The Next Generation | Reef Builders

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The University of Hawai’i at Hilo has been hard at work introducing the next generation to coral conservation. Their Marine Option Program has started to transition their coral nursery to a student-driven research facility.

One example of some of the good work they’re doing was a recent outreach program to a local charter school. The university hosted groups of fifth-grade students from Ka ‘Umeke K??eo Public Charter School. In this exercise, they taught them hands-on lessons about coral morphology.

They also gave students an opportunity to work with corals directly, teaching them how to measure and glue frags to grow out tiles. This allows students to visit again in the future and see how much their frag grew.

These types of experiences are pivotal to educating the next generation on the role corals play in marine ecosystems and may even inspire some future marine scientists. Giving children hands-on experiences during their formative years is key to planting the seeds of awareness in their futures.

For more information visit here: https://pi-casc.soest.hawaii.edu/news/nurturing-the-next-wave-of-coral-guardians/

And here: http://uhhmop.hawaii.edu/



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Water Hyacinth Care 101: From Planting to Blooming

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  The Water Hyacinth, or Eichhornia crassipes, is a captivating aquatic plant native to the Amazon basin. Adorned with vibrant lavender blossoms and a rosette of glossy green leaves, it brings an exquisite touch to any water body. Uniquely, the Water Hyacinth has an unparalleled reproduction rate, with the capacity to double its population within a fortnight under optimal conditions.

This fascinating plant, despite its beauty, is considered one of the fastest-growing invasive species worldwide, often posing significant challenges to waterways due to its rapid proliferation. Discover more about its care, growth, and unique characteristics in our comprehensive guide.

Quick Notes About Water Hyacinth

Scientific Name: Eichhornia crassipes, also known as Water Hyacinth

  • Origin: Indigenous to the Amazon Basin, but has spread worldwide
  • Physical Characteristics: Characterized by its rosette of glossy green leaves and striking lavender blossoms
  • Size: Individual plants typically range between 10-20 inches in height
  • Growth Rate: Extremely rapid; under ideal conditions, can double in population every two weeks
  • Preferred Habitat: Thrives in still or slow-moving freshwater environments
  • Temperature: Optimal growth occurs between 75-85°F (24-29°C)
  • pH Levels: Prefers slightly alkaline water with a pH of 7.0 to 7.5
  • Toxicity: Though non-toxic to humans and pets, can cause ecological damage if growth is not controlled
  • Care and Maintenance: Requires abundant sunlight and warm temperatures for optimal growth
  • Propagation: Primarily through stolons, producing daughter plants
  • Winter Care: In colder climates, it needs to be moved indoors or to a heated greenhouse to survive.

water hyacinth floatingwater hyacinth floating

Origin and Habitat

The Water Hyacinth, known in scientific circles as Eichhornia crassipes, has its roots in the Amazon basin in South America. This unique aquatic plant found its niche in the tranquil waters of slow-moving rivers, ponds, and lakes, beautifully enhancing these habitats with its glossy green foliage and stunning lavender blossoms.

Over time, the plant’s allure and adaptability led to its global spread, and it’s now found in North America, Asia, and Africa. Despite its tropical origin, Water Hyacinth has shown a remarkable resilience in adapting to varying climates, thriving in both tropical and subtropical conditions.

However, its remarkable growth rate and tenacity often result in it being classified as an invasive species, posing significant ecological challenges in its adopted habitats.

Description of Water Hyacinth

The Water Hyacinth is a stunning aquatic plant, characterized by its buoyant rosette of glossy, rounded, green leaves and delicate lavender blossoms. Its unique structure enables it to float elegantly on water surfaces, adding a splash of colour and life to its environment.

  • Vibrant lavender flowers: These blossoms are clustered in spikes and offer a delightful contrast to the green foliage.
  • Glossy green leaves: The leaves are broad and rounded, growing in a rosette pattern that allows the plant to float.
  • Dark fibrous roots: The plant features a network of dark, feathery roots submerged beneath the water surface.
  • Rapid growth: One of the fastest-growing plants, it can double its population in just two weeks under ideal conditions.
  • Size: Individual plants typically reach a height of 10-20 inches.

water hyacinth with fish ornamentswater hyacinth with fish ornaments

Water Hyacinth in Aquatic Environments

Tank Requirements and Water Parameters

If you’re planning to grow Water Hyacinths in an aquarium or pond, there are specific tank requirements and water parameters that you need to take into account to ensure their healthy growth.

  • Tank Size: Can grow quite large, so a spacious tank is required. For a single plant, a 10-gallon tank is the minimum size recommended. However, for multiple plants, consider a larger tank or outdoor pond.
  • Water Type: Freshwater is essential. They prefer slightly alkaline water, so maintaining a pH level between 7.0 and 7.5 is ideal.
  • Temperature: Water Hyacinths are tropical plants and thrive in warm water. A temperature between 75-85°F (24-29°C) is best. In colder regions, they should be moved indoors during winter months.
  • Hardness: The plant is adaptable and can handle a wide range of water hardness levels. However, a general hardness (GH) between 3-18 dGH is typically suitable for their growth.
  • Lighting: These plants require plenty of light to grow well, so make sure your tank is located in a place where it can receive at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. If indoor lighting is your only option, use powerful full-spectrum aquarium lights.
  • Substrate: As a floating plant, Water Hyacinths do not require substrate. They absorb nutrients directly from the water through their feathery, hanging roots.
  • CO2 and Fertilization: While Water Hyacinths can grow without additional CO2, supplementing CO2 can promote healthier and faster growth. Regular fertilization with a comprehensive aquarium plant fertilizer can also be beneficial, especially in a tank setup where nutrient uptake from fish waste is minimal.

water hyacinth frogwater hyacinth frog

Growing Water Hyacinth

How to Grow

Growing Water Hyacinth can be a rewarding endeavor thanks to its rapid growth and beautiful appearance. Here are some steps to guide you through the process:

  1. Choose the Right Location: They prefer still or slow-moving water bodies such as ponds, lakes, or slow rivers. They need a location that gets plenty of sunlight as they require at least six hours of direct sunlight each day for optimal growth.
  2. Prepare the Water: While Water Hyacinths can tolerate a range of water conditions, they prefer slightly alkaline water. Check your water’s pH level to ensure it’s between 7.0 to 7.5.
  3. Planting: Simply place the plant on the water surface. The plant will float and spread across the water body. Ensure the water temperature is above 60°F (15.5°C) before you introduce them, as they thrive in warm conditions.
  4. Maintenance: Regularly monitor the growth of your plants. Due to their rapid growth, they may require thinning to prevent overcrowding. Remove excess or dying plants to ensure healthy growth.
  5. Nutrients: Water Hyacinths are heavy feeders, so if your water body lacks nutrients, you may need to add a water-soluble fertilizer to support their growth.
  6. Winter Care: If you live in a cooler climate, you’ll need to move your plant indoors during the winter, as they are not frost-tolerant.

Container Grown

Growing Water Hyacinth in a container is an effective way to control its rapid expansion. First, pick a spacious container that can hold water. Fill it with dechlorinated tap water or rainwater, and adjust the pH level to be slightly alkaline. Then, simply place the plant on the water’s surface.

Ensure it gets at least six hours of direct sunlight daily, and if necessary, supplement with a water-soluble fertilizer. Regularly check the plant for any signs of disease or decay, removing unhealthy parts as needed. In colder months, remember to move the container indoors, as the plant cannot withstand frost. water hyacinth propagatingwater hyacinth propagating

Propagation

  • Natural Propagation: Water Hyacinth propagates naturally by producing runners, or stolons, that grow out from the parent plant, forming new daughter plants.
  • Separation: Once these daughter plants are well-formed, with their own root systems and leaves, they can be gently separated from the mother plant.
  • Floating: Newly separated plants should be allowed to float freely on the water surface. They will continue to grow and produce their own runners, repeating the propagation process.
  • Monitor Growth: Keep an eye on the growth of new plants. Due to their rapid growth rate, Water Hyacinths can quickly overcrowd a water body or tank.
  • Controlled Propagation: If the plant growth becomes excessive, manually remove some plants to prevent overcrowding and to maintain a balanced ecosystem.

Remember, propagation of Water Hyacinth should be done responsibly due to its potential to become invasive in certain environments.

Temperature, Hardiness, and pH

  • Temperature: As tropical plants, Water Hyacinths prefer warmer water temperatures. They thrive in conditions where the water temperature ranges between 75-85°F (24-29°C). In colder regions, they should be moved indoors during winter months to avoid frost.
  • Hardiness: Water Hyacinths are quite hardy when it comes to water conditions. They can tolerate a variety of water hardness levels, though a general hardness (GH) between 3-18 dGH is typically suitable.
  • pH: Water Hyacinths prefer slightly alkaline conditions. Therefore, maintaining a pH level between 7.0 and 7.5 is ideal for their growth and survival.

Lighting

Lighting is an essential factor in the growth and survival of Water Hyacinths. As a tropical plant native to the sunny Amazon basin, it thrives in plenty of light. Here are some key points regarding lighting for Water Hyacinths:

  • Sunlight Requirement: Water Hyacinths require a lot of sunlight for optimal growth. Ideally, they should receive at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
  • Indoor Lighting: If you’re growing Water Hyacinths indoors or in an aquarium, ensure they are placed near a window that gets plenty of sunlight. If this is not possible, use full-spectrum aquarium lights or plant grow lights to provide the necessary light conditions.
  • Effects of Insufficient Light: Without enough light, Water Hyacinths may not flower, and their growth could be stunted. The leaves might also start to yellow and lose their vibrant green color.

water hyacinth flowerwater hyacinth flower

CO2 and Fertilization

  • CO2: As a floating plant, Water Hyacinths obtain CO2 directly from the air rather than dissolved in water. Therefore, they generally don’t require additional CO2 supplementation like some other aquatic plants might.
  • Fertilization: The plants are heavy feeders and can absorb a wide range of nutrients directly from the water through their root systems. If they’re kept in a nutrient-rich pond or aquarium where fish waste is available, additional fertilization might not be necessary.
  • Nutrient Absorption and Water Quality: One of the benefits of these plants is their ability to absorb excess nutrients from the water, such as nitrogen and phosphorus. This can help to improve water quality and reduce the risk of issues like algal blooms.

Compatible Tankmates

Water Hyacinths can coexist well with various aquatic creatures in a pond or aquarium setting. However, the choice of tankmates largely depends on the size of the tank or pond, water conditions, and the needs of other inhabitants. Here are some compatible tankmates for Water Hyacinths:

  • Fish: Most non-aggressive freshwater fish species can coexist peacefully. The plants can even provide shade and hiding spots for the fish. However, large herbivorous fish, like some Cichlids and Goldfish, may nibble on the roots and leaves of the plant, potentially damaging them.
  • Invertebrates: Many invertebrates like snails and shrimps can live harmoniously with Water Hyacinths. They often feed on the microscopic algae and biofilm growing on the roots and leaves of the plants.
  • Other Aquatic Plants: They can be combined with other aquatic plants, but their rapid growth and dense cover may block light for submerged plants. So, it’s essential to manage their growth to ensure other plants get enough light.
  • Amphibians: Frogs and toads can also benefit from the presence of Water Hyacinths in a pond environment. The plants provide coverage and a potential breeding ground.
  • Birds: In larger outdoor pond settings, They can provide a habitat for various bird species, especially water birds.

water hyacinth tank mateswater hyacinth tank mates

Plant Eater Fish

When it comes to fish that eat plants, you’ll need to carefully consider which species you introduce to your water hyacinth environment. Several herbivorous and omnivorous fish species are known to nibble on aquatic plants, including water hyacinths. These include:

  • Goldfish: Both common goldfish and their larger koi cousins are notorious plant eaters and might damage your plants by nibbling on their roots and leaves.
  • Cichlids: Some types of cichlids, especially larger South American and African species, are known to eat plants.
  • Plecos: Certain species of plecos, like the common plecostomus, can also damage aquatic plants, though they are primarily algae eaters.
  • Silver Dollars: These are herbivorous fish that will nibble on a variety of plants.
  • Tinfoil Barbs: These are omnivorous fish that may eat plant material, though they primarily feed on small animals and detritus.

If you have water hyacinths in your pond or aquarium, it’s recommended to choose plant-friendly fish or monitor the plant-eating fish’s behavior to ensure they aren’t causing significant damage to the water hyacinths. If necessary, you can provide these fish with ample vegetable-based food to deter them from eating the plants.

The Benefits and Problems of Water Hyacinth

Despite their beauty and utility, this can be a mixed blessing. It has various benefits but can also cause significant problems if not adequately managed.

Benefits

  1. Water Purification: They can absorb toxins, pollutants, and excess nutrients from the water, improving water quality and helping to control algae blooms.
  2. Habitat Creation: The dense cover they form provides a habitat and food for various aquatic species, including fish, invertebrates, and birds.
  3. Aesthetics: With their attractive lavender flowers and glossy green leaves, Water Hyacinths can enhance the visual appeal of ponds and aquariums.
  4. Soil Enrichment: Decomposed plants can be used to enrich soil with nutrients.

Problems

  1. Invasiveness: One of the main issues with Water Hyacinths is their potential to become invasive due to their rapid growth rate. They can quickly overcrowd water bodies, blocking sunlight for other aquatic plants and animals.
  2. Impact on Biodiversity: When they plants dominate a water body, they can alter the ecosystem and negatively impact native species diversity.
  3. Blocking Waterways: In rivers and canals, large plant mats can obstruct boating, fishing, and other water activities.
  4. Disease and Pest Vector: Stagnant water under the dense mats can become a breeding ground for mosquitos and other pests.

water hyacinth quarantinewater hyacinth quarantine

Care and Maintenance of Water Hyacinth

Taking care of Water Hyacinths involves a few key steps. Despite being relatively easy to grow, these plants need some maintenance to keep them healthy and prevent overgrowth. Here are some tips for the care and maintenance.

  1. Light: Ensure your Water Hyacinths receive at least six hours of sunlight per day. If you’re growing them indoors, consider using a full-spectrum light to simulate sunlight.
  2. Temperature and Water Conditions: Water Hyacinths thrive in warm water between 75-85°F (24-29°C). They prefer slightly alkaline conditions with a pH between 7.0 and 7.5. They are hardy plants but the water should ideally have a general hardness between 3-18 dGH.
  3. Nutrients: Ensure the water is nutrient-rich, either from organic matter like fish waste or through adding a suitable water-soluble fertilizer.
  4. Overcrowding: Water Hyacinths grow rapidly and can crowd out other plants or block sunlight from penetrating the water. Regularly remove excess plants to maintain balance in your water body.
  5. Winter Care: In colder regions, Water Hyacinths need to be moved indoors or they could die off in the frost.
  6. Monitor Health: Keep an eye out for signs of poor health such as yellowing leaves, stunted growth, or lack of flowering. These could indicate problems with water quality, insufficient sunlight, or nutrient deficiency.
  7. Invasiveness: Due to their potential to become invasive, never dispose of Water Hyacinths in natural water bodies. Always dispose of unwanted plants responsibly, such as by compos

Purchasing and Quarantine Process

  1. Purchasing: Start by sourcing your plants from a reputable dealer. Look for plants that appear healthy – bright green leaves and robust roots are good indicators of a thriving water plant.
  2. Quarantine: Just like with new fish, it’s important to quarantine your new plants before introducing them into your main setup. This prevents any potential diseases or pests from spreading to your established aquatic environment.
    • Set up a separate tank for your new plants and fill it with water. Place the tank where it will receive sunlight or provide artificial light to mimic their natural environment.
    • Monitor the plants daily during the quarantine period. Look for any signs of disease or pests, such as yellowing leaves or a sudden loss of vigor. Any pests or diseases should be treated during this phase to prevent them from spreading.
  3. Observation: A quarantine period of about two weeks is generally enough. If no issues have emerged during this time, your plants are likely safe to introduce to your pond or aquarium.
  4. Acclimatization: When introducing the plants to their new home, be sure to acclimate them to the water conditions. This step is just as important as it is when introducing new fish to a tank.

B water hyacinth plant potwater hyacinth plant pot

FAQ

Do Water Hyacinths  require Substrate?

No, They do not require substrate. As free-floating plants, they extract all necessary nutrients directly from the water through their extensive root systems, and do not need soil or other substrate to thrive.

Are water hyacinth banned in UK?

Yes, Water Hyacinths are banned in the UK. Under the EU Invasive Alien Species Regulation, it is illegal to import, sell, grow, use, or release Water Hyacinths into the environment due to their invasive nature.

Are water hyacinth dangerous?

No, they are not directly dangerous to fish. In fact, they can provide shelter and food for fish. However, if allowed to overgrow, they can deplete oxygen levels and block sunlight in the water, which could harm fish.

Why is water hyacinth a threat?

Water Hyacinth poses a threat in open water due to its rapid growth and invasive nature. It can quickly form dense mats that block sunlight, reduce oxygen levels, disrupt water flow, impede water activities, and outcompete native aquatic species.


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AquaWiz IOS App Now Available

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The new AquaWiz line of products – the KH Controller and CaRx Controller now have an IOS app available allowing for more streamlined controllability and management. The android app is in the works. AquaWiz products can be purchased from Collectors Corals.

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Hygrophila Pinnatifida Aquarium Plant Guide

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In the world of aquascaping, few aquatic plants offer the unique appeal and versatility of Hygrophila Pinnatifida. This comprehensive guide aims to provide you with a deep understanding of how to care for this common freshwater plant.

So if you’re wondering whether this fern is the right plant to add a splash of red to your aquarium, you’ve come to the right place!

Hygrophila Pinnatifida Leaf StructureHygrophila Pinnatifida Leaf Structure

Hygrophila Pinnatifida Facts, Origins & Overview

Ever wondered where Hygrophila Pinnatifida comes from? It hails from the vibrant streams of India’s Western Ghats. Clinging onto rocky riverbeds, soaking up the sun and cleaning nutrients from the flowing water.

Want a slow growing Hygrophila Plant? Check out – 16 Awesome Low Light Aquarium Plants Guide!

This natural habitat is pretty unique. It’s here that Hygrophila Pinnatifida learns to be flexible, growing both underwater and above it. When you add this plant to your aquarium, you’re bringing a slice of its wild, adaptive nature into your home. Cool, right?

Hygrophila Pinnatifida under different lightingHygrophila Pinnatifida under different lighting

Types of Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is unique and doesn’t have recognized variants. However, slight differences in leaf color and shape can be observed, based on varying light and nutrient conditions.

Hygrophila Pinnatifida attached to driftwoodHygrophila Pinnatifida attached to driftwood

Appearance & Max Size

Hygrophila Pinnatifida’s alluring appearance lies in its pinnately cut leaves, which may vary from dark green to brown or even red under optimal lighting conditions. The plant grows horizontally, with the stem reaching a height of 10-20 cm and a width of 15-20 cm.

Pros & Cons

Pros:

  • Versatility: Can be used as a centerpiece or background plant and can be planted in various ways (in the substrate, attached to hardscape, or even floated).
  • Unique Appearance: Offers a distinct look with its fern-like leaves and various shades of green, brown, or red.
  • Wide Range of Water Parameters: Can tolerate a broad range of water parameters, making it adaptable to different aquarium setups.
  • Moderate Growth Rate: Allows for easy management and predictable growth patterns.

Cons:

  • Light Requirements: Needs moderate to high light conditions for optimal growth and coloration.
  • Sensitivity to Hard Water: May experience growth issues in excessively hard water conditions.
Hygrophila Pinnatifida Nano TankHygrophila Pinnatifida Nano Tank

Tank Size, Water Parameters, Temp, Lighting, PH

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is adaptable to a wide range of tank sizes, from nano tanks to larger aquascapes. Ideal water parameters include a temperature range of 22-28°C, pH of 6-7.5, and a GH of up to 30. While this plant can tolerate low light,the vibrant coloration and growth rate are significantly enhanced under moderate to high lighting conditions.

Hygrophila Pinnatifida PropogationHygrophila Pinnatifida Propogation

How to Plant Hygrophila Pinnatifida

Substrate

Plant Hygrophila Pinnatifida into a rich nutrient substrate. The stem should be inserted deep enough to prevent it from floating away but not so deep that the lower leaves are buried.

Attached

This plant can also be attached to rocks, driftwood, or decor using a cotton thread or a plant glue. Over time, it will anchor itself using its roots.

Floating

While not a common practice, Hygrophila Pinnatifida can be allowed to float in the aquarium, leading to an intriguing and unique aesthetic.

HygrophilaHygrophila

Growth and Propagation (Breeding)

How fast does it grow?

Under optimal conditions, Hygrophila Pinnatifida exhibits a moderate growth rate, with new leaves sprouting every week.

How to propagate?

Propagating this plant is simple – cut a healthy stem and plant it into the substrate or attach it to hardscape. The cut stem will grow into a new plant.

CO2 and fertilization

While the plant will grow without added CO2, the supplementation of CO2 and micronutrients can significantly enhance growth and coloration.

Hygrophila Pinnatifida CarpetHygrophila Pinnatifida Carpet

Tank Mates

Suitable Tankmates

Hygrophila Pinnatifida is compatible with a wide range of fish, shrimp, and snails that do not have a tendency to nibble on plants.

Unsuitable Tankmates

Avoid housing this plant with species like goldfish, cichlids, and large plecos, which are known to uproot or eat aquatic plants.

Hygrophila Pinnatifida PlantHygrophila Pinnatifida Plant

Care and Maintenance

Is Hygrophila Pinnatifida low maintenance?

While this plant is relatively easy to care for, its requirement for moderate to high light and its sensitivity to hard water mean that some degree of maintenance is necessary.

Trimming And Pruning

Trimming the plant regularly will promote bushier growth. Make sure to remove any yellow or decaying leaves to maintain plant health.

Signs Of Good Health

A healthy Hygrophila Pinnatifida exhibits vibrant coloration, new leaf growth, and strong root development.

Signs Of Poor Health

Warning signs include yellowing leaves, slow growth, and weak root systems. These signs may indicate issues with water parameters, lighting, or nutrients.

Hygrophila Pinnatifida Red Healthy with FishHygrophila Pinnatifida Red Healthy with Fish

Is Hygrophila Pinnatifida Suitable for Your Aquarium?

If you’re seeking an aesthetically pleasing, versatile, and relatively manageable plant to enhance your aquascape, Hygrophila Pinnatifida is a fantastic choice.

Remember, while it demands certain conditions for optimal growth, the breathtaking beauty it offers in return makes the effort worthwhile.

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UNS Introduces Hybrid Holding System

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UNS has continued to shake up the game recently, introducing their Foresta and triple-decker plant holding systems. They’ve now announced a hybrid version of both, allowing shops or enthusiasts a flexible display option that incorporates the best of both worlds. Featuring integrated plumbing and clean CO2 integration, these systems combine function and form. The best…

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Swordtail Fish Care: The Ultimate Care Guide

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Swordtail fish, distinguished by their long, sword-like tails, are a colourful and lively addition to any home aquarium. Native to Central and North America, these freshwater species are renowned for their hardy nature and easy care requirements, making them ideal for both beginner and experienced aquarists.

The swordtail’s playful behaviour and vibrant hues, ranging from greens and reds to yellows, offer endless fascination. Additionally, they’re livebearers, which adds an exciting dimension to fish keeping as you might get to witness the miracle of birth right in your tank. A proper understanding of their needs, from diet to tank conditions and compatible mates, is crucial for their thriving existence.

Swordtail fish featureSwordtail fish feature

Swordtail Fish: Facts & Overview

Swordtail Fish Fact Details
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
Care Level: Easy to Moderate
Native Region: Central and North America
Lifespan: 3–5 years, up to 5+ years in optimal conditions
Size: Up to 5–6 inches (approximately 13–15 cm)
Family: Poeciliidae
Diet: Omnivore
Minimum Tank Size: 76 litres (approximately 20 gallons) for a single fish
Compatibility: Compatible with a variety of non-aggressive, similarly-sized species

Origin

The Swordtail fish, scientifically known as Xiphophorus hellerii, originates from the warm waters of Central and North America, with a significant presence in Mexico and Honduras. They inhabit a wide range of freshwater habitats, from rapid flowing rivers to slow-moving streams, often amidst dense vegetation.

Their natural environment plays a crucial role in defining their care needs in home aquariums, especially in terms of water temperature, pH balance, and tank setup. The swordtails we see today in aquariums, bearing a variety of vibrant colours and patterns, are often the result of careful selective breeding, a departure from their wild counterparts that usually exhibit a more subdued green hue.

Swordtail Fish Appearance

Colours, Patterns, Fins

Swordtail fish are celebrated in the aquarium world for their diverse range of colours, patterns, and distinct fin shapes. They possess an elongated body and a signature ‘sword-like’ tail, particularly prominent in males.

The colours of Swordtail fish can range extensively due to selective breeding. While wild Swordtails are usually greenish with a brown or yellow lateral stripe, aquarium varieties exhibit a wide palette, including red, orange, black, white, and even multicoloured or marbled patterns.

Their body can be uniformly coloured or bear distinct patterns, such as spots or stripes. Some Swordtail fish may also display a ‘wagtail’ pattern, where the body colour contrasts with a solid-coloured tail and fins.

As for their fins, Swordtails possess a dorsal fin and an anal fin, known as a gonopodium in males, used in reproduction. The dorsal fin is larger in males than females, while the iconic ‘sword’ is a prolonged lower tail fin, more pronounced and longer in males, contributing to their unique visual appeal.

Swordtail fishSwordtail fish

Average Swordtail Fish Size and Lifespan

When it comes to understanding and providing the appropriate care for Swordtail fish, it’s important to consider their typical size and lifespan. These factors contribute significantly to their housing, dietary needs, and overall wellbeing.

  • Swordtail Fish Size: Swordtail fish typically grow to an average length of 5 to 6 inches in captivity. Males, identifiable by their prominent ‘sword’ tail extension, are generally larger than females. However, size can vary depending on tank conditions and genetics.
  • Swordtail Fish Lifespan: On average, Swordtail fish live for about 3 to 5 years in a well-maintained aquarium. Proper care, including optimal water conditions, balanced nutrition, and disease prevention, significantly contributes to their lifespan. It’s worth noting that some Swordtails have been known to live even longer under exceptionally good care.

Sex Differences

Sexual dimorphism is quite distinct in Swordtail fish, making it relatively straightforward to differentiate between males and females.

  • Males: Male Swordtails are characterised by their long, sword-like lower tail fin, from which the species derives its name. They also possess a modified anal fin, known as a gonopodium, used for internal fertilisation. Males are generally larger and more colourful than females, and their dorsal fins are usually longer.
  • Females: Female Swordtails lack the prominent ‘sword’ and have a regular, fan-shaped anal fin. They are typically larger in body size, especially when carrying fry (baby fish), and their colours are often more subdued compared to males. The dorsal fin in females is shorter than in males.

Being aware of these sex differences can be particularly important when planning for a balanced community tank or if you intend to breed your Swordtail fish.

Neon Swordtail fishNeon Swordtail fish

Neon Swordtail Fish

Neon Swordtail fish are a type of Swordtail fish that are admired for their vibrant, neon-like colours. Just like other Swordtail fish, they are native to North and Central America. Their neon colouring is the result of selective breeding by aquarists.

The Neon Swordtail possesses the same iconic elongated tail fin, or ‘sword’, that is a characteristic of this species. They have the same care requirements as other Swordtails, needing a spacious tank, specific water parameters, a diet consisting of both plant and animal matter, and peaceful tank mates.

Their striking neon colours make them a standout choice for any aquarium, adding a splash of brilliance and liveliness to the tank. However, as with all fish, they require diligent care to maintain their vibrant colour and overall health.

Behaviour and Temperament

Typical Behaviour

Swordtail fish are known for their lively and engaging behaviour. They are active swimmers, spending most of their time in the middle to upper parts of the aquarium, adding a vibrant dynamic to any fish tank. Here are a few key points about their behaviour and temperament:

  • Community-Friendly: Swordtails generally get along well with other non-aggressive fish of similar size, making them a popular choice for community aquariums.
  • Active Swimmers: They are dynamic and lively, spending much of their time exploring and swimming around the tank.
  • Male Aggression: While Swordtails are generally peaceful, males can exhibit territorial tendencies and may spar with each other, especially in the presence of females. This behaviour usually doesn’t result in harm, but it’s crucial to monitor and ensure it doesn’t escalate to persistent bullying.
  • Jumpers: Swordtails are known to be adept jumpers. It’s advisable to have a secure tank lid to prevent any adventurous fish from jumping out.
Swordtail fish with other swordtailSwordtail fish with other swordtail

Swordtail Fish are Livebearers

Swordtail fish are livebearers, a term used in the aquarium trade to describe species that give birth to live young rather than laying eggs. This reproductive characteristic is one of the fascinating aspects of keeping Swordtail fish.

In the case of Swordtails, internal fertilisation occurs when the male uses his modified anal fin, known as a gonopodium, to deliver sperm to the female. The female then carries the fertilised eggs internally until they hatch, after which she gives birth to free-swimming fry.

The gestation period typically lasts around 28 days, although it can vary. A single female can give birth to a brood of anywhere from 20 to 100 fry, depending on her size and health. Interestingly, females can store sperm and produce multiple batches of fry from a single mating.

Live bearing lends a fascinating dynamic to the Swordtail’s behaviour, and it can be quite a spectacle to see a female Swordtail giving birth to a new generation right in your home aquarium. However, it’s important to provide the right conditions for breeding and to ensure the safety of the newborn fry, as adults can sometimes eat their young.

Aquarium Setup

Tank Size

Swordtail fish are active swimmers and require ample space to thrive. For a single Swordtail, a tank of at least 20 gallons (approximately 76 litres) is recommended. This ensures they have sufficient space for swimming and expressing natural behaviours.

If you plan to keep a group of Swordtails, the tank should be even larger. A general rule of thumb is to add an additional 10 gallons (approximately 38 litres) for each new Swordtail you introduce to the tank. For instance, a tank for two Swordtails should be around 30 gallons, while a tank for three Swordtails should be around 40 gallons.

Remember, these are minimum requirements. If you can provide a larger tank, your Swordtails will greatly appreciate it. A larger tank not only allows more room for swimming but also helps in maintaining stable water conditions, which contributes to the overall health and longevity of your fish.

It’s also worth noting that if your Swordtail fish breed, additional space will be needed to accommodate the newborn fry. So, if you plan on breeding, consider opting for a larger tank from the beginning.

Swordtail fish tankSwordtail fish tank

Water Parameters and Tank Conditions

Creating an environment that closely mimics the Swordtail fish’s natural habitat is key to their health and well-being. Below are the optimal water parameters and tank conditions:

  • Water Temperature: Swordtail fish thrive in water temperatures between 22°C and 28°C.
  • pH Level: The water should be slightly alkaline, with a pH range of 7.0 to 8.4.
  • Water Hardness: Aim for general hardness (GH) between 12° and 30° dGH, which equates to moderately hard to hard water.
  • Water Flow: They prefer moderate water flow that simulates their natural river habitats.
  • Tank Decorations: The tank should feature plenty of hiding spots and cover, provided by live plants and rock or driftwood formations. However, ensure there’s ample open swimming space as well.
  • Lighting: Moderate lighting is suitable for Swordtail fish.
  • Substrate: A fine gravel or sand substrate is recommended, especially if live plants are used.
  • Filtration: A high-quality filter is crucial to maintain clean water and remove waste products.
  • Tank Lid: A secure lid is essential, as Swordtails are known to be good jumpers.

Remember to maintain these conditions consistently, as sudden changes can cause stress and health issues in Swordtails. Regular water changes and monitoring of water parameters will help ensure a healthy environment.

Decorations and Compatible Plants

Decorating your Swordtail fish tank properly can greatly enhance their quality of life by providing hiding spots, spawning areas, and mimicking their natural habitat. Here are some suggestions:

Decorations:

  • Caves and Rocks: Swordtails appreciate places to hide and explore, so including caves or rock formations in the tank design can be beneficial.
  • Driftwood: Driftwood can also serve as a hiding spot and add a natural aesthetic to the tank.
  • Ceramic Pieces: Non-toxic ceramic pieces can also provide shelter and entertainment for your fish.

Compatible Plants:

Swordtails hail from environments rich in vegetation. So, incorporating live plants not only contributes to the tank’s aesthetic but also offers practical benefits like providing cover, aiding in water oxygenation, and absorbing nitrates.

  • Java Fern: This hardy plant tolerates a wide range of conditions and doesn’t require substrate, as it can attach to rocks and driftwood.
  • Anubias: Anubias is another robust species that can be attached to tank decorations.
  • Amazon Sword: These large, leafy plants provide excellent cover and mimic the Swordtail’s natural environment. They do require a nutrient-rich substrate to thrive.
  • Hornwort: A fast-growing plant that can float or be planted, excellent for providing shelter for fry.
Swordtail fish in handSwordtail fish in hand

Swordtail Fish Care

Food & Diet: Feeding Your Swordtail Fish

Providing Swordtail fish with a balanced and varied diet is vital to their health, colour vibrancy, and overall well-being. They are omnivores, which means they eat both plant-based and meaty foods. Below are key points to consider when feeding Swordtail fish:

  • Commercial Flakes or Pellets: High-quality commercial flakes or pellets specifically designed for tropical fish can form the basis of their diet. These foods are usually nutritionally balanced, providing the necessary proteins, carbohydrates, and vitamins.
  • Live or Frozen Foods: Supplement the basic diet with live or frozen foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, or bloodworms. These protein-rich foods can enhance growth and colour vibrancy.
  • Vegetable Matter: Swordtails also need some vegetable matter in their diet. This can be provided through blanched vegetables like spinach, peas, or zucchini. Some types of algae wafers can also be used.
  • Feeding Frequency: Feed your Swordtails one to two times a day, providing only as much food as they can consume in a few minutes. Overfeeding can lead to water quality issues and health problems.
  • Variety: Providing a variety of food types helps ensure that the Swordtails get a range of nutrients and keeps them interested in their food.

It’s worth noting that nutritional needs can change at different life stages or during breeding, so adjustments may be needed. Always observe your fish’s behaviour and physical condition to ensure their dietary needs are being met.

Swordtail fish tank matesSwordtail fish tank mates

Community Living: Swordtail Fish Tank Mates

When choosing tank mates for Swordtail fish, it’s important to select other peaceful species that thrive in similar water conditions. Overly aggressive or territorial fish can cause stress to Swordtails and should be avoided. Here are a few ideal tank mates for Swordtail fish:

  • Mollies: They are peaceful, come in various colours and sizes, and share similar water parameter needs with Swordtails.
  • Platies: Just like Swordtails, Platies are hardy and easy to care for. They get along well with Swordtails and share similar care requirements.
  • Guppies: Although smaller in size, Guppies are fast swimmers and can easily cohabit with Swordtails. They’re also livebearers, sharing similar breeding behaviours.
  • Certain Types of Tetras: Some Tetras, like Neon Tetras and Black Skirt Tetras, can make good tank mates due to their peaceful nature.
  • Corydoras Catfish: These bottom-dwelling fish are peaceful and can help keep the tank clean by scavenging for uneaten food.
  • Certain Types of Gouramis: Gouramis like the Dwarf Gourami can be suitable tank mates as long as they are not overly territorial.
  • Zebra Danios: These fast-moving, peaceful fish do well with Swordtails.

It’s important to note that male Swordtails can show aggression towards each other, especially in the presence of females. It’s best to keep one male Swordtail or have a larger ratio of females to males to help reduce this aggression.

Also, bear in mind that Swordtails can interbreed with some other species like Platies, which can lead to hybrid offspring. Some aquarists might find this interesting, while others may prefer to avoid it.

Always monitor the behaviour of the fish in the tank to ensure everyone is getting along well. If you notice any signs of bullying or stress, it might be necessary to adjust the mix of fish in your tank.

Common Possible Diseases

Like all fish, Swordtails are susceptible to various diseases. While maintaining good water quality and a balanced diet can prevent most illnesses, it’s still crucial to be aware of potential health problems. Here are some common diseases that can affect Swordtail fish:

  • Ich: Also known as white spot disease, ich is a parasitic infection that causes small white spots on the fish’s body and fins. It can lead to lethargy, loss of appetite, and rubbing against objects.
  • Fin Rot: This bacterial disease leads to the gradual disintegration of a fish’s fins. It usually occurs due to poor water quality or if the fish’s immune system is compromised.
  • Cottonmouth: Cottonmouth, or mouth fungus, is a bacterial infection that results in a cottony growth around the mouth and damages the fish’s gills and fins.
  • Swim Bladder Disease: This affects the fish’s buoyancy, causing it to float on its side or upside down. It’s usually a result of a poor diet or abrupt changes in water conditions.
  • Velvet: A parasitic disease causing a dust-like coating on the fish’s body, loss of appetite, and increased respiration.

If you notice any signs of disease, it’s important to diagnose the problem accurately and start the appropriate treatment promptly. Many fish diseases are contagious, so it’s crucial to isolate the sick fish in a separate hospital tank to prevent the illness from spreading. Always consult a vet or a fish health expert for proper diagnosis and treatment.

Swordtail fish plantsSwordtail fish plants

Breeding Swordtail Fish

Breeding Swordtail fish can be an interesting and rewarding experience. Here are the general steps involved:

6-8 weeks

Step 1: Determine the Sexes

Identify male and female Swordtails in your tank. Males have a long, sword-like tail and a modified anal fin called a gonopodium. Females have rounder bodies and lack the prominent ‘sword.’

Step 2: Setting Up the Breeding Tank

Prepare a separate breeding tank with the same water parameters as the main tank. It should have plenty of hiding spots and live plants, offering cover for the fry.

Step 3: Choose the Breeders

Select healthy adult Swordtails for breeding. Ideally, keep a ratio of one male to at least two or three females to prevent a single female from being harassed excessively.

Step 4: Feeding

Feed the breeding Swordtails a diet rich in protein, such as brine shrimp and daphnia, to condition them for breeding.

Step 5: Spawning

Males will chase females to mate. After successful mating, the female will carry the fertilised eggs and give birth to live fry after about 28 days.

Step 6: Separation

Once you notice that the female is about to give birth (her abdomen will look boxy and enlarged), you may wish to move her to the breeding tank if not already done. This is to protect the newborn fry from being eaten by other fish in the main tank.

Step 7: Birth

The female will give birth to live fry. This can be a few or up to 100, depending on her size and health.

Step 8: Post-Birth Care

After birth, remove the mother from the breeding tank to prevent her from eating the fry. Feed the fry a diet of infusoria or commercial fry food until they are large enough to eat regular food.

Step 9: Raising the Fry

Once the fry are big enough (usually after a month), you can gradually introduce them to the main tank or a larger grow-out tank.

Swordtail fish silver tipSwordtail fish silver tip

Should You Get a Swordtail Fish for Your Aquarium

Deciding whether to introduce Swordtail fish to your aquarium requires considering various factors. Here’s a summarised breakdown of the benefits and potential drawbacks of Swordtail fish ownership:

Benefits:

  • Suitability: Swordtail fish are hardy and adaptable, making them suitable for both beginner and experienced aquarists.
  • Visual Appeal: Their vibrant colours and distinctive ‘sword-like’ tail add a visual appeal to any aquarium.
  • Behaviour: Swordtails are active and engaging, contributing to a lively aquarium dynamic.
  • Breeding: As livebearers, they provide an exciting opportunity to observe fish birth and raise the young, adding another dimension to the fish-keeping hobby.
  • Community Living: They are generally peaceful and can cohabit well with various other non-aggressive species, making them an excellent choice for community tanks.

Drawbacks:

  • Tank Size Requirement: Swordtails are active swimmers and require a spacious tank, so they might not be suitable if you have limited space.
  • Care Requirements: Like all fish, Swordtails need regular care, including a balanced diet and specific water conditions to thrive.
  • Potential Aggression: Male Swordtails can sometimes show aggression towards each other, especially in the presence of females.

In summary, Swordtail fish can be a fantastic addition to your aquarium if you’re prepared for the regular tank maintenance, can provide an adequately sized aquarium, and appreciate active, visually appealing fish. However, potential drawbacks such as the need for significant swimming space and some care requirements should also be factored into the decision.

FAQ

Can Swordtails live with other fish?

Yes, Swordtail fish are generally peaceful and can cohabit well with various other non-aggressive, similarly-sized species, making them an excellent choice for community aquariums. Always ensure compatibility to maintain a harmonious tank environment.

Do Swordtails eat Guppies?

While Swordtails are generally peaceful, they might prey on smaller fish if they are hungry enough. However, they don’t specifically target guppies. To prevent such incidents, ensure all fish in the tank are well-fed and appropriately sized.

Can Swordtails be kept in pairs?

Yes, Swordtails can be kept in pairs. However, to prevent a single female from being harassed by the male, it’s usually recommended to keep one male with multiple females, typically in a ratio of 1:2 or 1:3.

Do Swordtails jump?

Yes, Swordtail fish are known to be good jumpers. They may leap out of the tank, particularly if stressed or startled. Therefore, it’s advisable to have a secure lid on your aquarium.

Why is my Swordtail Fish hiding?

Swordtail fish may hide due to stress, which can stem from factors such as poor water conditions, illness, aggressive tank mates, changes in their environment, or lack of adequate hiding spaces in the tank.


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Manta Systems Unveils Frozen Food Auto Feeder | Reef Builders

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The TLDR:

  • New frozen food auto feeder
  • Crowdfunding to begin in May
  • The excepted retail price is $700
  • 1-year warranty
  • Expected release = Q1 2026

Last weekend at RAP Dallas 2025, Manta Systems unveiled a new frozen food auto feeder design. This model holds up to 72 cubes of frozen food using a carousel-based design and stores them at 12°F (-11°C). It can be programmed using an app via Bluetooth or WiFi to dispense cubes of frozen food at designated times. The unit can also function without an app/WiFi using preset schedules, but of course, the app allows users to have real-time notifications, control, etc. It can also easily integrate with popular aquarium controllers.

A look at the app’s user interface displaying temperature tracking capabilities.

The unit touts near silent operation and is constructed using an 80×80 variable speed exterior fan with stainless steel screws, bottom vents, multiple side vents, rubber gaskets capable of fitting 2″ tank rims, 24 embedded magnets, and a water-tight electrical compartment. The polycarbonate plastic food carousel can be removed for cleaning. It is 7.9″ tall, 11.8″ long and 10.3″ wide. It weighs 6.1 lbs. The unit has three temperature sensors as well as optical emitters/sensors to ensure food delivery and temperature.

Front view of the unit.

This model comes with integrated systems to help prevent failed food drops, which consist of a laser sensor that can determine if a cube was or was not dispensed. Once the sensor detects a potential issue, it will attempt another feeding from the same column. If the unit still fails to eject a cube from that column of the carousel, it will rotate to the next column and try again (subtracting the failed feeding attempt from the total food count). Users with apps will then receive an update detailing the issue.

The unit has also been designed to maintain a freezing temperature for up to one hour after the power goes out. If the food is thawed the device will end feedings and send app based users a notification.

Back view of the unit.

Another helpful feature is the unit has a plunger based design that breaks apart any frozen cubes which may be stuck together. Once a cube is successfully dispensed it will thaw in the feeding cup and fall through holes allowing small pieces of the food to enter the system instead of an entire cube.

This product will undergo a crowdfunding campaign starting in May. Manta Systems reports they expect the unit to retail for $700 and the unit will come with a 1 year warranty. It is expected to ship to the public Q1 of 2026.

Side view of the unit.

In my mind, this unit has the potential to revolutionize food delivery in the aquarium trade. Other frozen food auto feeders that have popped up in recent years have had notoriously steep supply chain issues resulting in poor market penetration. If this model can overcome those problems, I can see it making waves. The only potential concern I have is the build-up of biofilms/potential growth of bacteria in the feeding cup. Based on what I have read and seen, it seems the feeding cup is kept at ambient temperatures in order to thaw the food. If this piece of the unit is not regularly cleaned, it could become a Vibrio factory quite easily. Keep in mind that details about this device are just coming onto the scene, so this take may be based on a misunderstanding about the device.

For more information on the unit, visit here.

To support the crowdfunding campaign, visit here.



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