The Bichir is a fantastic and rare freshwater fish that will add a Jurassic look to your aquarium.

These little dragon-looking fish are one of our favourites thanks to their quirky personalities and unique look.

If you want to own one of these ancient-looking fish, you’ll need to know how to keep it healthy and happy. This is where the knowledge in this guide comes into play.

In the sections below, you’ll find everything you need to know about caring for your new Bichir or whether it’s a good fit for your aquarium.

Origins / History: Bichir

The Bichir is a fascinating fish that has been around for millions of years. It was first discovered in the 1800s, and it’s believed to have originated from Africa in the region of the Nile.

Bichir’s are mainly freshwater fish but they can also tolerate saltwater or brackish water.

Bichirs prefer shallow, swampy waters and can be found in mixtures of freshwater and salt water. Their build makes them suitable for this kind of habitat, but as a result they have remained unchanged for such a long period of time.

As the Bichir’s often live in murky waters, they never developed good vision. As such , they’ve developed a keen sense of smell to compensate. This is how Bichir’s locate their food in murky waters and feed on insects, worms, crustaceans and small fish.

Contrary to popular belief, not all Bichir’s are carnivores- some will eat plants and algae as well.

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Lifespan, Behaviour & Types of Bichir

The lifespan of the Dinosaur Bichir can be as high as 15-20 years, with males living for a slightly shorter period of time than females. These fish are generally shy and avoid contact with other fish.

But, the Bichir can vary depending on the water conditions. In general they have a lifespan of up to 20 years in an aquarium, but wild specimens that live in freshwater and muddy waters as opposed to clear or saltwater are observed living for 40-60 years.

Ornate Bichir can have a lifespan of up to 12 years, with males living for a slightly shorter period of time than females.

The Bichir’s mouth is on its underside so it goes upside down often during feeding times which make them particularly vulnerable creatures because other species will then prey on them.

In an aquarium, Bichir will usually find a hiding place in rocks or plants to avoid being eaten by other fish as they hide upside down with their mouths open waiting for food. They sometimes use their sharp teeth to catch prey like worms, crustaceans and small fish.

The most common Bichir Behaviour is that they lay on the bottom of their tank in a huddled ball. The second most common behavious is that they will lie on top of the water and sulk.

The Bichir is a fish that needs to be fed less than other species in an aquarium setting because it does not require as much food as larger predatory fishes do. However, most people feed them twice per day which means feeding them once every two days instead would be ideal.

The Dinosaur Bichir

The Dinosaur Bichir is the only Bichir species that is able to survive in freshwater. The other types of Bichirs usually live their entire lives in salt water (these are called marine bichirs).

You can recognise the Dinosaur Bichir by its long, sharp fins and its pointed nose. They come in a variety of colours, such as green or brown.

Albino Bichir

The Albino Bichir has a distinctive pink hue and is a lot more vulnerable to predators because the colouration makes it easy for other species to spot them.

The Albino Bichir has also been known to have additional mutations that make it difficult for their bodies to function properly in salt water, as they are not able to process ions or maintain osmotic balance.

Saddled Bichir

The Saddled Bichir has a pointed nose and its eyes are set far apart.

It’s scales have a pattern of dots that look like saddlebags, hence the name.

Saddled Bichirs get their common name from the saddles they grow on their skin when they reach maturity. These adults can be up to ten inches in length making them one of the largest Bichirs.

The Saddled Bichir is also known for being one of the most aggressive species in the family, and they have been seen harassing other animals like catfish to steal their food at times.

Delhezi Bichir

The Delhezi Bichir is a feisty little fish that is often mistaken for the common Bichir.

Their scales are brown and it has a pronounced tail fin to help them swim efficiently in water.

The Delhezi Bichir gets its name from the Zulu word “delhisi” which means “to dig.” This type of Bichir digs for food and will often use its tail fin to turn over the sand.

Delhezi Bichirs are found in Africa, but they also live in fresh water streams that flow into rivers like Lake Malaŵi.

The Delhezi Bichir is the smallest type of Bichir and they are not typically found in aquariums as pets.

Ornate Bichir

Finally, the Ornate Bichir is a gorgeous Bichir that is often found in the wild.

Their scales are black and white, but they do not have any spots like other types of Bichirs.

Ornate Bichirs grow to around six inches long and can be commonly seen on rocks or plants near water sources. The Ornate Bichir Prefers to feed on smaller fish, crustaceans and insects.

The Ornate Bichir is a carnivorous type of Bichirs, so it will eat anything that fits in its mouth which can include other types of water-dwelling animals like frogs or even small turtles!

This type of Bichir is often seen in the wild because they are not too picky about where they live. They can easily survive in a variety of different water sources and habitats, which is why Ornate Bichirs have been found all over the world!

Food & Diet

– Bichirs are carnivores, their diet consists of live fish and worms.

– They rarely accept dead food from the surface or in the water column.

– As a rule of thumb, feed them once every two days with small pieces of meat (about one centimeter) for adults, juveniles can be fed twice as often but make sure they get enough to eat.

If you have more than one bichir and want to keep them satisfied so that there is no fighting over food among themselves then it’s best if all bichirs alternate feeding periods together at about four hours each day during which either everyone feeds or nobody eats for this period.

Bichirs are carnivorous creatures, which means that they require a substantial supply of meat in their diets. In addition, bichirs dine at night; this is another factor that sets them apart from most popular freshwater fishes.

Tank Size / Parameters

Bichirs are quite large fish so you will need a tank that is appropriate for their size. I would recommend at least 100 gallons of water and ideally, the larger the better! Bichirs like to hide in plants or other dark places within tanks with low lighting so they prefer darker spaces. The depth of your bichir’s tank should be at least 24-36 inches.

In terms of water parameters, Bichirs prefer a pH of around neutral. They also need both soft and hard water so it is recommended that you have at least two filters in their tank to provide these different parameters.

• Water temperature: 74°F to 82°F (23 – 29 Celsius)
• pH levels: 6.2 to 7.8
• Water hardness: Soft

The Bichir is a fairly hardy fish so they don’t require much attention. They only need feeding once per day and should be given carnivorous foods like shrimp, crickets or blood worms. It’s best to feed them in the evenings as daytime feeding can often result in too many leftover food particles left uneaten which could cause water quality issues via algae growth!

Bichirs are known for being escape artists so it may be worth investing in an extra heavy duty tank cover that will help prevent escapes! You also want your bichir to have enough rocks or other decorations that allow him/her to easily hide from view.

Don’t forget about filtration either – these large fish produce loads of waste, so it’s crucial to have a good filtration system!

✓ Bichirs only need feeding once per day and should be given carnivorous foods like shrimp, crickets or blood worms.

✓ Bichirs are known for being escape artists so it may be worth investing in an extra heavy duty tank cover that will help prevent escapes! You also want your bichir to have enough rocks or other decorations that allow him/her to easily hide from view.

✓ Don’t forget about the filter – these large fish produce loads of waste, so it’s crucial to have a good filtration system!

Suitable Tank Mates For Bichir

So you’ve decided you’re going to get some Bichir, what you’ll want to know next is what are some suitable tank mates?

Some good tank mates for Bichir are:

– Texas Cichlid

– Red Tailed Shark

– Rainbow shark.

Note that the red tailed and rainbow sharks will need a large aquarium as they can grow up to be huge fish! You’ll also want to make sure you have an extra heavy duty cover on your tank in case your bichirs manages to escape.*

And if you’re concerned about compatibility, don’t worry – these fish tend to get along well with each other because of their similar temperaments. However, it’s worth keeping in mind that while some species may not bother them, others might see a potential meal when they look at one of these bottom dwelling fish!

Be careful about adding any invertebrates as well; they’re on the menu for Bichir.

“Bichirs are peaceful creatures by nature, but be aware that there may be issues with aggression when placing multiple males together.”

says John Harrison from The Tropical Fish Shop in London.

Breeding Bichir

Bichirs are one of the best beginner fish species. Bichir’s breeding is relatively easy, although getting their eggs to hatch can be frustrating even for seasoned breeders.

The key to successfully breeding these bottom-dwelling ‘living fossils’ is a healthy diet and plenty of hiding places in which they feel safe. There should also be enough plants throughout the tank that Bichirs can easily find cover so they don’t get eaten by other fish while trying to protect their eggs from predators.

Breeding bichirs requires at least two females and three males, since it takes a male and female pair to produce fertile offspring; ideally you want an odd number because there will always be some unfinished breeding cycles.

While it’s possible to raise bichirs from eggs, they are much easier to keep if you start with fry and grow them up before breeding them. This allows a breeder to get their feeding timing down pat so the fry can become bigger faster than those that were spawned naturally in an incubator or tank full of adult fish. As long as there is plenty for the young Bichir to eat, they will be strong enough not only to make it through hatching but also survive outside of their parents’ protection until they have developed some natural defences against predators themselves.

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As with any other hobby, the aquarium scene is full of myths and misconceptions that mislead people into making unfortunate mistakes or missing out on many opportunities.

Here, we’ll debunk 7 common aquarium myths so that you won’t have to learn the hard way. Let’s quash the fallacies and reveal the facts!

Live Plants Are Hard To Keep

Our first myth is unsurprisingly one we’d love to debunk the most! One of the saddest things about the aquarium hobby is how many people start out imagining or hearing that live plants are difficult to keep, only to miss out on one of the most fulfilling elements of keeping an aquarium.

While it’s true that certain species of aquatic plants should only be attempted by experts, there are also endless plants that are incredibly easy, beautiful, and fun to keep. Take Java moss and Java fern for example, virtually indestructible plants that can even be tied to rocks and pieces of driftwood.

Another classic choice for beginners is the Amazon sword, whose elegant pointed leaves are a joy to watch swaying in the aquarium’s gentle current. Then there are floating plants such as frogbit and water sprite that create a lovely dappled shade and a natural aesthetic to the tank without fuss or worry.

Not only are plants beautiful and fun, but they also provide hiding places for your aquarium fish and filter the water to improve water quality. To find out more about plants that are a doddle to keep, check out our guide to 8 of the best beginner plants, here.

Almost All Fish Require a Heater

Another myth that even experienced fish keepers often believe is that almost all fish species require an aquarium heater.

In most people’s minds, cold water aquariums are confined to goldfish and guppies, and little more. Yet as long as your aquarium is in a reasonably warm room that remains above 65°F, you might be amazed at the options you have.

Buenos Aires tetra, bloodfin tetra, zebra danios, celestial pearl danios, peppered cories, Japanese rice fish, and rainbow mountain minnows are but a few of the small schooling fish that can be kept in coldwater setups. As well as guppies, Endler’s livebearers and mosquito fish are good examples of hardy livebearers.

Slightly larger species that can be kept without a heater include rosy barbs, golden barbs, and paradise fish. Advanced aquarists could also consider rainbow shiners (Notropis chrosomus), and pumpkin seeds (Lepomis gibbosus). As for invertebrates, most freshwater shrimp and many snails can live in unheated aquaria.

Not only do coldwater tanks offer a novelty that saves energy, but they also naturally have higher oxygen levels, with many species living longer lives than they would in tropical tanks.

Filters Are Not Essential

While some aquariums can go without a heater, none should be left without a filter. Aquarium filters perform so many vital roles that attempting to go without one only puts your fish in danger, and yourself under a lot of stress.

Firstly, filters are the primary home of beneficial bacteria in the tank that convert deadly ammonia into relatively harmless nitrates. Even going a day without a filter could see your fish wind up with ammonia poisoning.

Then there are the cleaning and aerating roles that filters fulfill. Without these, you’ll need to clean the tank and change the aquarium water daily just to keep it clean and oxygenated. Since filters are so affordable and easy to maintain, why take the risk?

Okay, okay, there is one very small caveat. The ‘Diana Walstad method’ is an innovative yet complex method of filtering and aerating water with plants alone, but to avoid disaster, it should never be attempted by anyone but the most advanced fish keepers!

Fish Can Live Happily in Bowls

Oh no, they can’t! If you’ve been following our discussion on why goldfish bowls should be banned, you’ll know why.

First of all, fish bowls normally don’t have filters, and we’ve already discussed why that’s a non-starter. Secondly, the curved glass of a fish bowl distorts the fish’s vision, causing it constant stress as it struggles to identify the reflections and warped appearances from outside the tank.

The small water capacity of goldfish bowls also often means constant fluctuations in water chemistry that can severely shock, if not kill fish outright. Sadly, many people believe that goldfish are only supposed to live for a few years, when kept in the right way, they can exceed twenty!

When hobbyists begin to understand how smart fish are, they will resolve not to keep fish in such cruel conditions.

Fish Are Not Smart

Following on from the cruelty of keeping fish in bowls, it’s time to debunk the notion that fish are stupid, unaware, and don’t suffer.

At Aquariadise, we’ve written plenty about the remarkable feats of fish intelligence. Not only can pet fish learn tricks and recognize their owners, but they can also complete tasks that are normally associated with highly evolved animals.

By shooting insects from foliage above the water, archerfish are included in the list of animals that use tools. By using an electromagnetic field, elephant nose fish can navigate in the dark. And by remembering skills taught to them years ago, goldfish are fast dispelling the misnomer about their ‘5-second memory’!

By observing your fish with an open mind, you’ll begin to discover just how complex and advanced their behavior and interactions are. It’ll give you a new appreciation of a fish’s inner world, and cause you to treat them with a new level of admiration and respect.

Small Tanks Are Easier To Maintain

A rather dangerous myth or misconception among newbie fish keepers is that small tanks must be easier to manage and maintain. In reality, nothing could be further from the truth.

Firstly, we need to understand that no fish, no matter how small, should be kept in a tank of less than 5 gallons. Doing so is extremely cruel, and such small tanks should be reserved for plants, shrimp, and snails only.

But managing stable water parameters in any tank that’s under 20 gallons in capacity isn’t easy either. Because there is less water volume to buffer fluctuations, water chemistry, and temperature can change extremely quickly, putting their inhabitants at great risk.

For a first aquarium, we’d thoroughly recommend a medium-sized 20- to 55-gallon tank that will have much more stable water parameters and also provide more room for fish (especially schooling fish) to enjoy their lives thoroughly.

Fish Can Live on Dried Food Alone

Man cannot live on bread alone. If he did, he’d get malnourished very quickly. Likewise, fish that live solely on flake food or fish pellets are highly unlikely to reach optimum health or appearance due to a dull, monotonous diet.

Because fish species have evolved over millions of years to eat natural food items like algae, insects, worms, and crustaceans, they do best when given similar types of food in captivity, too.

While it might feel like a hassle to stock live foods, or thaw out frozen foods every day for your fish to eat, even offering your fish these healthy snacks twice a week will make a big difference.

You’ll notice immediately how excited and feisty your fish become as you offer them their favorite foods, and how their eyes, scales, fins, and colors all begin to glow more brightly as a result of the extra nourishment.

Proper feeding may even get some fish in the mood for breeding! Now there’s a bonus worth shooting for. To read more about live and frozen foods, as well as vegetables to feed fish, check out our dedicated guide, here.

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How many times have you seen Java Moss in your local pet store and been fascinated by the texture? It’s one of the most popular plants for freshwater aquariums, and it’s very easy to grow.

Once you learn these simple steps on how to grow Java moss, you’ll be able to enjoy this beautiful plant yourself!

Java moss is a popular freshwater aquarium plant for many reasons. Not only does it have an attractive texture, but Java Moss also has a high tolerance to nitrate and phosphate levels in the water, making it easier to maintain than many other plants.

Love Moss?

11 Common & 7 Rare Moss To Pick From!

Java Moss is also a great plant for beginners to grow because it will simply grow out from its original location and attach itself onto any surface that you place it on, such as rocks or driftwood in your aquarium.

It doesn’t have roots but instead uses a very fine, red-brown thread called a “rhizoid” to attach itself onto surfaces.

If you want Java Moss to stick to an object in your aquarium you should first clean the surface of any algae or other organic matter. Then you should break the Java Moss into several pieces and use some string or fishing line to hold it in place.

It will stick and start growing within about two weeks, so be sure that whichever object you plan to attach Java moss too is in an area where there’s plenty of light for growth as well! Once the Java Moss has stuck, you can then remove the string or line that you used to hold it in place.

There’s 3 things you can to today to make Java Moss grow faster.

Fluvico Team

1. Separate your Java Moss filaments. When your Java Moss grows densely, it will reveice less light and less nutrients as its sharing. Once the moss becomes thick and dense, split it into 2 or 3 parts and replant.
2. Give the Java Moss more light. Although this moss isn’t fussy about light, you will notice it growing faster when it has access to brighter aquarium lights. Alternatively, you can move the moss to a brighter area or let it float for a while until your happy with the new growth then replant.
3. Add a liquid fertiliser. Since the moss doesn’t have roots, it takes all of it’s nutrition from the water. A liquid fertiliser will help with this, although not essential.

Java Moss: A Brief History

The Java Moss was first discovered in 1825 by a botanist named Alexander von Humboldt.

He found the plant while exploring Southeast Asia, and he recognized it as being unique from other mosses because of its much greater size. The name “Java” came from his belief that this new species had been imported to other areas of the world from Java, Indonesia.

Scientifically called ‘Taxiphyllum barbieri’, it belongs to the class Bryopsida, and grows in a single filament or strands. Other plants belonging to the Bryopsida are liverworts, hornworts, and 95% of mosses.

It can grow to be up to two inches tall, does not flower and is most often found submerged under water or on the surface of stones that are wet for more than three months out of the year.

Maintenance

With Java Moss growing so easily once you have the tank parameters correct, it’s important to know how to apply take care of it. In this next section, we’ll cover how Java Moss can be maintained and what you need to do to keep it looking healthy at all times.

• Java Moss can grow well in bright or gloomy tanks but with at least six hours of natural or artificial light each day.
• Your Java Moss should be trimmed every two weeks if you want your mound large and dense, trimming Java Moss every week will produce a short and dense mound, and trimming once a month should result in medium-sized clumps.
• If you are growing your moss outside of the tank on another surface such as driftwood or rock then it is best to keep them trimmed at least monthly.
• Java Moss does not require any special fertilizer, but if you want to fertilize your moss make sure it is a slow-release nutrient of high quality.

Using Java Moss as a nursery for baby fish and shrimp

Java Moss makes a fantastic natural hiding place for young fry & shrimp allowing them to hide from predators.

If you want your moss to act as a defensive nursery against larger fish, then you’ll want to let it grow longer and avoid trimming regularly.

Most common uses in Aquariums

• It can also be draped over driftwood pieces, or it can even line the bottom and sides of an aquarium with Java moss for a natural look.
• Java Moss has been used in aquariums since the 1960’s as a decoration. It can be found on vertical surfaces, and is also popular for spread out across the tank like a carpet.
• You can also use this wonderful moss to hide plant roots that are peeking out from underneath rocks.

Common Problems

Java Moss is one of the easiest plants to grow. However, it can be susceptible to common problems that are easy to identify and resolve. If you notice any of these conditions on your Java moss:

• Browning or yellowing of strands
• Leaves coming off in clumps
• Leaves curling under
• Algae growth or water clarity problems

then there are a few steps you can take to fix the problem.

– If the browning is due to lack of light, move your Java Moss to a brighter area.

– If the yellowing strands are caused by too much nitrogen or iron in the water, use an acidic solution to remove excess nutrients from the aquarium.

– Plant your Java Moss in its original container with fresh soil and wait for the plant to recover.

– If any of these treatments fail, try removing Java Moss from your aquarium and soak it in a bowl of cold water until you see new growth.

After following these steps, monitor your moss regularly for signs that things have returned to normal or if they worsen again. Use our comprehensive Grow Guide as a reference when needed!

Care & Growing Guide

Tank Requirements

While Java Moss is hardy, ensuring proper tank conditions can maximize its growth and health. It thrives in a wide range of temperatures, from 59 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, making it suitable for many types of freshwater aquariums. Additionally, a gentle water flow can promote its growth, helping spread nutrients and prevent stagnant water.

Tank Size

As for tank size, Java Moss isn’t particularly demanding. Although it can grow in small jars or tanks, a minimum of 10 gallons is recommended to allow ample room for growth. Be aware, without regular trimming, it can proliferate, sometimes overtaking other plants.

Water Parameters

Java Moss isn’t picky about water parameters. It can survive in various water hardness levels and a pH range of 5.0 to 8.0. However, a neutral to slightly acidic pH is preferable for optimal growth.

Nutrition

Java Moss is quite autonomous, drawing nutrition directly from the water column. Still, the addition of a liquid fertilizer can enhance its growth, especially if other plants in the tank absorb most of the nutrients.

CO2

While Java Moss doesn’t require added CO2, its growth rate will significantly benefit from it. However, balance is key, as excessive CO2 can be harmful to fish.

Lighting

Java Moss is a low-light plant, tolerating a variety of lighting conditions. Too much light can encourage the growth of algae, which competes with the moss for nutrients.

Substrate

Java Moss doesn’t require substrate as it doesn’t root. Instead, it attaches itself to objects such as rocks or driftwood using tiny rhizoids.

Trimming & Pruning

Due to its fast growth, periodic trimming is recommended to keep Java Moss from overwhelming your tank. These trimmings can be reused in the same tank or elsewhere.

Tips to Make Your Java Moss Grow Faster

To accelerate the growth of Java Moss, provide it with moderate lighting, CO2 injection, and a balanced supply of nutrients. Regular trimming can also stimulate growth.

How to Plant, Aquascape & Propagate a Java Moss

How To: Attach Java Moss To Driftwood or Hardscape

To attach Java Moss to driftwood or hardscape, simply use a fishing line or thread to tie it securely. Over time, the moss will naturally attach itself to the surface using its rhizoids.

How to Propagate Java Fern

Java Moss propagation is straightforward. Simply take a healthy piece from an existing clump and place it where you want it to grow. Given appropriate conditions, it will begin to expand.

Tips for Planting Java Moss for Effective Carpet Coverage

For effective carpet coverage, divide your Java Moss into small clumps and attach them to a mesh grid. Position the grid on your tank bottom and over time, the moss will grow through the mesh, creating a lush carpet.

Is Java Moss right for your aquarium?

Java Moss is an excellent choice for both novice and experienced aquarists due to its low maintenance, aesthetic appeal, and hardiness.

It enhances your tank’s biodiversity and offers refuge for aquatic life, significantly contributing to a balanced and vibrant aquarium ecosystem.

However, regular care and attention are needed to keep its growth in check and ensure it complements rather than dominates your aquascape.

Once you add Java Moss to your aquarium, like any mosses it can be very difficult to completely remove with each individual strand capable of multiplying and growing independently.

Hopefully this Java Moss guide has helped you in your decision whether moss is the right choice for your next aquascape.

As always, if you’ve got any questions or want to help out others with advice, leave your comments below.

Thanks for reading!

Charlie!

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Are you curious about tissue culture plants and what their benefits and drawbacks might be? Let’s talk about the process of how tissue culture plants are produced and whether or not they are the right choice for your next planted aquarium.

What are Tissue Culture Plants?

The term “tissue culture” (sometimes called “in vitro” or “lab-grown”) sounds a little intimidating and scientific, but it is not too complicated once you break it down. In order to create a tissue culture plant, the facility or laboratory does the following:

1. Cut off a tissue sample or part of an existing plant.
2. Add the plant part to a sterile liquid medium containing nutrients, vitamins, and plant growth hormones. (Older methods may use a gel medium.)
3. The plant sample absorbs the nutrients and grows into a clone of the original plant.

Tissue culture process where small plant pieces being placed on nutrient-rich medium

These steps are similar to traditional ways of propagating a plant, such as planting seeds or cutting and replanting stems. However, tissue cultures have a few advantages that are attractive to fishkeepers. For example, growing healthy plants in a sterile environment means they are free from pests and pathogens. If a certain plant has a desirable or attractive trait, producing exact copies or clones of the plants ensures that these features are passed down. The tissue culture process is even used in other similar industries, such to mass-produce house or garden plants or to create whole new plants from plant cells that have been genetically modified (e.g., Monstera deliciosa ‘Thai Constellation’ variety).

When it comes to buying aquarium plants, tissue culture might be a great option for your planted tank. However, you might opt for using traditional potted plants instead if the drawbacks outweigh the benefits for you. 

Mass production of tissue culture plants growing in a small, sterile lab

The Pros and Cons of Tissue Culture and Potted Plants

The benefits of tissue culture aquarium plants:

Tissue culture aquarium plants are guaranteed to be 100% free from algae, snails, and other pests. This is the perfect scenario if you like your aquarium to be free of snails and want to minimize the risk of adding unwanted plants like duckweed. Tissue culture plants are also easy to prepare before adding them to your tank. They usually come in a liquid medium, which you can just rinse off. Lastly, tissue culture cups contain more plants — although in a smaller size — for a similar price as a potted plant.

The downsides of tissue culture aquarium plants:

Although they have a few benefits, tissue culture plants aren’t perfect. They may experience some melting during the acclimation process to your aquarium. Since these plants come from a sterile environment packed with nutrients, they will have to adapt to their new, non-sterile home in your aquarium and this process might cause them to melt back a bit before taking off. Also, they might be too small for the space you are trying to fill. Typically, tissue culture plants come in a cup that fits in the palm of your hand, so you will have to give these plants a lot of time to grow and fill in completely.

Left to right: Potted plant and tissue culture of dwarf sagittaria (Sagittaria subulata)

The benefits of potted aquarium plants:

Potted plants have the advantage of being quite hardy and robust compared to tissue culture. They come with well-established roots that can absorb nutrients and start building new leaves in your aquarium. Therefore, you may experience less melting with potted plants when adding them to your own aquarium. Additionally, potted plants are generally much larger in size. They will fill out your tank immediately and look great right from the start. For this reason, potted plants are a better choice if you don’t want to wait such a long time for your plants to look full and mature.

The downsides of potted aquarium plants:

Potted plants might be carrying snails, snail eggs, algae, duckweed, or other pests. Another drawback is that, depending on the species, you may only get one plant for the price, although it is usually larger than its tissue culture counterpart. Lastly, plants potted in rock wool may be a bit harder to prepare before adding to the aquarium because strong roots make it difficult to remove the rock wool completely.

Crypt parva tissue culture cup

When it comes to selecting your plants, only you can decide which you would rather add to your aquarium. There is no perfect method, and tissue culture isn’t necessarily better than potted plants — they just offer variety on the market.

If you are running an existing low tech setup with low lighting and no CO2, then potted plants may adapt more readily to this environment, especially if they have already been growing submerged under water. In this case, tissue culture plants might have a hard time competing with the already established plants in the tank for light and nutrients.

However, using tissue culture plants makes a lot of sense if you are going to set up a new high tech, fully planted system using CO2 and you want your tank to be clean and sterile. Most tissue culture plants really flourish in new high tech aquariums where they don’t have to compete with other plants for light or nutrients.

Tissue culture aquarium plants in small plastic containers

As a special note, consider opting for tissue culture Bucephalandra species (or buce plants) when possible. Buce in the aquarium trade often comes from a wild source where harvesting plants may harm the local ecosystem and wildlife. This isn’t true for all types being sold, but since it’s hard to distinguish between reputable growers and wild-harvested plants, tissue culture is a great alternative for sustainably purchasing bucephalandra.

To prepare a tissue culture plant to add to your aquarium:

1. Remove the lid or cap, and gently pull the plant clump out of the container.
2. Rinse it under water to remove any liquid or gel media. (When removing gel, use a bucket or bowl to catch it, and toss the gel into the trash instead of rinsing it down the drain.)
3. Break up the plant clump into smaller pieces if desired and plant using tweezers or fingers.

Remember that not all plants should be buried in the substrate, so make sure to read our quick guide on how to plant different types of aquarium plants.

With so many aquarium fish available in the fish store, many species are commonly sold but end up going unnoticed by hobbyists. Sometimes they are looked down upon as “beginner fish” that aren’t as rare or unique enough. Other times, they may have once been all the rage but then fell out of favor for more newly discovered species. Most of these animals are pretty hardy and not hard to find, so take a look at our top 5 underappreciated fish that you should consider trying in your next aquarium.

1. Common Goldfish

Carassius auratus

While fancy goldfish like ranchus and orandas often get a lot of attention, the common goldfish is often the first pet fish that people have ever kept because they’re frequently given away as carnival prizes or sold cheaply as feeder fish. While fancy goldfish have an egg-shaped body with a flowy, double tail, the common goldfish has a torpedo-shaped body with a single tail and therefore can swim much faster. They come in many colors including orange, red, white, black, yellow, olive-brown, and more. Because of their inexpensive cost, most beginner fishkeepers don’t realize that common goldfish can grow up to 12 inches long and live between 10–40 years. However, they are extremely robust and can absolutely be a fun monster fish to keep in the right setup.

Depending on the adult size of the fish, common goldfish may eventually need to be kept in a large tank of 4 feet or longer. As a cool water fish that enjoys temperatures from 50–78°F (10–26°C) and beyond, they can also live in an outdoor pond. They are not picky about pH levels from 6–8 and soft to hard GH, but they will eat most of your aquarium plants if given the chance. We like to use them as “vacuum cleaners” to get rid of excess duckweed, but for their normal diet, feed them goldfish pellets, Repashy gel food, and plenty of blanched and canned vegetables to help prevent bloating. They will peacefully live with other cool water tank mates that aren’t small enough to be eaten, so check out the bigger species on this list.

2. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

Tanichthys albonubes

If the common goldfish is too massive for your tastes but you like the idea of keeping an unheated aquarium, why not try the white cloud minnow? At only 1.5 inches (4 cm) long, they are one of our bestsellers at the Aquarium Co-op fish store because of their hardiness and ease of breeding for an egg-scattering species. The regular type has a gray-brown body, white horizontal stripe, and red fins, but they also come in 24k gold and long fin varieties. As a schooling fish originally from China and Vietnam, they can live in pH of 6.5–8.5, 65–77°F (18–25°C), and soft to hard water. You’ll want to get a group of at least six minnows for a 10-gallon tank or larger if you want to add more tank mates. They go well with almost any similar-sized, peaceful fish that likes cooler water, such as celestial pearl danios, clown killifish, and variatus platies. Because of their tiny mouths, aim for smaller foods like crushed flakes, nano pellets, frozen daphnia, and Easy Fry and Small Fish Food. For more information on how to breed them, see our full care guide.

3. Paradise Fish

Macropodus opercularis

The paradise fish or paradise gourami is one of the first ornamental fish ever kept in an fish tank and is known for its beautiful blue and red-orange tiger striping and lyre-shaped tail. While it used to be abundant in the aquarium trade, now it’s a little harder to find since fishkeepers gradually moved toward the latest and greatest. At 2.5–3 inches (6–8 cm) in size, think of this Asian labyrinth fish as an undemanding centerpiece alternative to a betta fish or dwarf gourami that would do fine in an unheated fish tank of 20 gallons or more. They can live in an exceptionally wide range of water parameters, including pH levels of 6–8, 60–80°F (16–27°C), and soft to hard GH. They are semi-aggressive like bettas and dwarf gouramis, so keep them with fast-swimming or unflappable tank mates like barbs, loaches, and peaceful catfish that aren’t big enough to eat them. They aren’t difficult to feed and will happily consume all the typical betta fish foods — such as frozen bloodworms, betta pellets, and freeze-dried brine shrimp.

4. Bolivian Ram Cichlid

Mikrogeophagus altispinosus

Everyone loves the colorful German blue ram (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) and its many color morphs, but don’t forget about the Bolivian ram, its hardy cousin that is much easier to care for. They have a very similar shape as the German blue ram with a yellowy body, red-rimmed fins, and a black stripe running vertically through its eye. Plus, the males have elongated streamers on the tips of their fins and tail. Their natural habitat in the Amazon River basin ranges from 72–80°F (22–27°C), pH between 6–7.5, and soft to moderate hardness. This bottom dweller enjoys digging through the substrate, so use sand or small-sized gravel to see this natural behavior. They don’t tend to uproot plants, so you should have no problems keeping them in a planted aquarium.

A single or pair of rams can live in a 20-gallon fish tank, but go for a larger size if you plan on adding tank mates. While they are fairly peaceful, ram cichlids can get a little territorial during mating season, so provide lots of hiding spots and aquarium plants to block line of sight. If you find your rams are a bit shy, pick some dither fish — like outgoing tetras, corydoras, or livebearers — to help them feel more comfortable. Feed them plenty of foods like sinking pellets, frozen bloodworms, and live white worms, and if you have a pair, you may soon see some eggs laid on a flat stone or in a small pit. The adults show excellent parental care by guarding their young until they are old enough to feed on their own, so definitely give them a shot.

5. Kribensis

Pelvicachromis pulcher

This amazing 3- to 4-inch (7.5–10 cm) cichlid has some of the most beautiful rainbow colors found in the freshwater aquarium hobby. Imagine a fish with a yellow face, reddish-pink belly, black horizontal band, and black eye spots on the dorsal fin and tail. Plus, the fins display many more colors like orange, blue, and sometimes even lavender. While they are a type of African cichlid, they come from slow-moving, plant-filled waters in Benin, Nigeria, and Cameroon and do not have the extremely high pH requirements of African Rift Lake cichlids. You can keep them in pH between 6–8, 75–82°F (24–28°C), and soft to hard water.

As another bottom dweller that likes to dig, give them a 20-gallon long or larger tank with sand or small gravel and hardier plants like anubias and java fern. While they can become territorial when breeding, they do get along with other similar-sized, community fish such as tetras, barbs, catfish, and loaches. Like Apistogramma and ram cichlids, they show parental care over their offspring and reproduce quite readily as long as you provide apisto caves and coconut huts for spawning. Give them a nice, varied diet of pellets, flakes, brine shrimp, and even some blanched or canned vegetables to keep them happy and healthy.

All of these underrated fish have a special place in our hearts because they have brought us many years of enjoyment in our home aquariums and ponds, so we hope you consider giving them a try the next time you go fish shopping. While we do not ship live fish, you can check out our list of preferred online retailers that will deliver fish and invertebrates to your front door.

Cory catfish are one of our favorite bottom dwellers because of their easy-going personalities, constant scavenging, and silly antics. With more than 150 Corydoras species to choose from, the salt and pepper cory is one of our best-selling fish at Aquarium Co-Op. Find out why these nano bottom dwellers are so popular and how to provide them with a comfortable environment to thrive in.

Salt and pepper cory in a planted tank

What are Habrosus Corydoras?

Corydoras habrosus is the largest of the three species of “dwarf corydoras,” with the round-bellied females reaching 1.5 inches (3.5 cm) and males being slightly smaller and slimmer. Unlike the other two dwarf corydoras that hover in the middle of the tank, habrosus corys prefer to swim near the bottom, using their little barbels or whiskers to search for food. They are very active yet peaceful critters that exhibit many of the unique personality quirks of their larger corydoras cousins. Expect to see them randomly dart up to the surface for a gulp of air or unexpectedly “wink” at you while resting on the ground.

What is the difference between the habrosus, hastatus, and pygmy cory? All three of these dwarf corydoras are similar in size and coloration. However, they have clear differences in their patterns that you can easily identify:

• C. habrosus (salt and pepper cory): silvery-tan body with an uneven, horizontal black stripe, a striped tail, and darker splotches on the head and back
• C. hastatus (tail spot cory): silvery body with a big, black spot at the base of the tail that is flanked by small, white dots
• C. pygmaeus (pygmy cory): silvery body with a thin, horizontal black stripe

Left to right: C. habrosus, C. hastatus, and C. pygmaeus

The common name “salt and pepper cory catfish” refers to the dappled markings on C. habrosus, but don’t confuse it for the “peppered cory catfish” or C. paleatus, which also has a mottled pattern but grows up to 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) long.

How to Set Up an Aquarium for Salt and Pepper Corydoras

The habrosus cory can be found in the flooded forests and slow-moving streams of Columbia and Venezuela that are chock full of underwater foliage and tree roots. Hundreds of them can be found congregating around the dense cover while sifting through the substrate. Therefore, we recommend using a filter with gentle flow with lots of live aquarium plants and driftwood to simulate their natural habitat. Because they are accustomed to the changing parameters introduced by the rainy seasons, you can keep them in pH of 6–8, 70–78°F (20–26°C), and soft to moderately hard water. A 10-gallon aquarium is a good starting point, depending on the size of the school and number of tank mates.

How many habrosus corys should be kept together? As a smaller schooling fish, they would feel most comfortable in a larger group of at least 8–12 other habrosus corys. The greater the numbers, the more you will see their delightful personalities shine.

What fish can live with habrosus corydoras? They are very mild-mannered and get along with virtually any peaceful community fish that isn’t big enough to eat them. Common tank mates include chili rasboras, celestial pearl danios, clown killifish, green neon tetras, snails, and other small catfish. They can live with adult dwarf shrimp but may opportunistically consume any baby shrimp or fish fry that cross their paths.

Salt and pepper cory on sand substrate

What Do Habrosus Cory Catfish Eat?

While they are excellent “vacuum cleaners” that will suck up any tasty morsels they find, cory catfish cannot live on leftovers alone and must be fed a variety of sinking fish foods to stay healthy. Also, they are not the fastest eaters and like to take their time foraging, so be careful about pairing them with fast swimmers that will gobble up every crumb before it ever hits the floor. We like to feed them a mixture of nano pellets, sinking wafers, frozen daphnia, baby brine shrimp, and live micro worms. Repashy gel food is one of their favorites since it stays solid in the water for up to 24 hours, allowing them to graze all day long to fill their little stomachs.

Habrosus corys love to eat meaty foods and generally do not go after algae or vegetables.

How to Breed Salt and Pepper Cory Catfish

Breeding habrosus corydoras at home is so fun. Like most corydoras, you can condition them for spawning by increasing the amount of food you feed them. Some breeders recommend having more males than females and doing frequent, large water changes with cooler, soft water to imitate the rainy season. When the female is plump and full of eggs, the males will start chasing her everywhere until she is ready to mate. The sticky, fertilized eggs are typically deposited on aquarium walls, plant leaves, or even a DIY spawning mop sunken to the ground.

The adults like to eat their own eggs, so either remove all the fish from the breeding tank or remove the eggs. The eggs can be gently rolled off with your finger, or you can remove the entire spawning mop if there are eggs in there. Corydoras eggs are prone to growing fuzzy fungus, so to increase the hatch rate, consider placing them in a catch cup with an air stone and adding a few drops of methylene blue or alder cones as an antifungal treatment. Once the fry have hatched, change the water to remove the methylene blue, and feed the newborns tiny sinking foods like vinegar eels, powered fry food, and raw Repashy powder. Keep the water quality high with frequent water changes, and as soon as they are big enough, start feeding live baby brine shrimp to significantly boost their growth.

Alder cones and other botanicals add brown tannins to the water and have very mild antifungal properties.

We hope you will give this petite catfish a chance the next time you’re setting up a nano (or larger) aquarium. While we do not ship live fish, you can check out our list of preferred online vendors to see the latest livestock they have available. Plus, we have many more corydoras species to suggest, so read our article on the 10 Best Cory Catfish You Have to Try.

Contrary to popular belief, aquarium fish are not necessarily the cheapest animals at the pet store. By the time you buy the fish tank, heater, filter, and decorations, you may find that you have a limited budget for the actual fish themselves. The last thing you want to do is get a fragile animal that is difficult to care for or won’t last very long. To help you narrow down the huge selection of fish at the pet store, we’ve compiled our top 5 freshwater fish that are not only affordable but also hardy and safe for community tanks. Plus, most of these species either live for a long time or are easy to reproduce so that you don’t constantly have to buy new fish.

1. Sunset Variatus Platy

Xiphophorus variatus

Our founder Cory saw these colorful fish at the pet store, took them home, and had so much fun breeding them. Even to this day, he keeps them in his fish room and constantly recommends them to new and veteran fishkeepers equally. The variatus platy is a very robust species of platy fish that originally comes from Mexico’s plant-filled waterways and now has spread to surrounding countries, as well as Asia. The sunset variety grows to about 2–3 inches (5–8 cm) long with a yellow body that gradually blends into a red-orange tail. This ombre coloration looks jaw-dropping in a planted tank full of greenery.

Spend your money on one male and two to three females for a 15- to 20-gallon aquarium or larger, and they will easily breed to fill the whole tank with bursts of color and energy. Platies, like most livebearers, do prefer harder water, so aim for pH levels of 7–8 and 10° (180 ppm) GH or greater. They also enjoy cooler temperatures, so no heater is needed if your room temperature remains between 65–78°F (18–26°C). They are always ready to eat and will even pick at algae in your tank, so feed them an omnivorous diet with both protein and fibrous ingredients, such as community fish flakes, mineral-rich pellets, and freeze-dried brine shrimp. For more details, see our full platy care guide.

2. Black Neon Tetra

Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi

Many beginners are familiar with the neon tetra (Paracheirodon innesi), but we often like to recommend the black neon tetra instead because of their resilience to many fish diseases, confident and active personality, and relatively long lifespan for a tetra. This 1- to 1.5-inch (2.5–3.8 cm) schooling fish has a pearly white stripe paired with a bold black band running down its body and bright red “eyeshadow” above its eye, which looks amazing when swimming across a green background of live aquarium plants.

As a native of Brazil’s Paraguay River basin, they come from more acidic waters, but we’ve found they do just fine in pH levels between 5–8, soft to moderately hard water, and 72–80°F (22–27°C). A group of six can live in a 10-gallon aquarium, but go for 20 gallons or more to increase the size of the school or add tank mates. This deep-bodied tetra goes well with small- to medium-sized community fish, such as hatchetfish, dwarf cichlids, and even angelfish. They tend to hang out in the upper half of the water column, so offer floating or slowly sinking foods such as krill flakes, nano pellets, freeze-dried tubifex worms, and daphnia. Read our article on black neon tetra for more information.

3. Kuhli Loach

Pangio kuhlii

If you want an awesome oddball fish that only costs a few dollars but lives practically forever (i.e., 10 years or more), you have to try the kuhli loach. They look like a 3- to 4-inch (8–10 cm) miniature eel with a yellow-tan body marked by dark brown bands on their back. The little barbels or whiskers around their mouths are excellent for foraging and picking up the smallest crumbs in the aquarium. As a predominantly meat-eating bottom dweller, they love sinking foods like wafers, frozen bloodworms, Repashy gel food, and live worms.

Kuhli loaches are mostly nocturnal, so if you find that other fish are eating all the food before it ever reaches the ground, try feeding them at night when the aquarium lights are off. We have found they do great in a group of 3–6 (or more) of their own kind in a 20-gallon fish tank or bigger. Because they’re so peaceful and stay out of everyone’s way, they pair well with almost any other community tank mates — like tetras, corydoras, livebearers, and even betta fish. They are found in freshwater streams all over Asia and can thrive in a wide range of pH between 5.5–7.5, soft to moderately hard GH, and 74–80°F (23–27°C). Learn more about this fascinating creature in our kuhli loach care guide.

4. Albino Corydoras

Corydoras aeneus (albino version)

Corydoras aeneus is known as the “bronze cory,” but the albino version is much more popular because of its striking, pinkish-white coloration, iridescent cheeks, and rows of bony, armored plates. Unlike some Corydoras species, the albino cory is extremely personable and not afraid of swimming out in the open. Get a school of at least 4–6 of them for a 20-gallon aquarium, and you’ll see them constantly sniffing the ground with their prominent barbels and cleaning the floor of excess food. They also have many other interesting behaviors, such as randomly darting up to the water’s surface to grab a gulp of air or “winking” at you when they are resting on the substrate.

This 2.5- to 2.75-inch (6-7 cm) South American catfish comes from Colombia and Trinidad and can live in pH from 6–8, soft to hard GH, and temperatures between 72–82°F (22–28°C). You can keep them with similar-sized, peaceful tank mates, such as rasboras, otocinclus catfish, and most of the other species on this list. As bottom dwellers, their favorite fish foods include sinking wafers, Repashy gel food, frozen bloodworms, tubifex worms, and other meaty dishes. Feed them well, and they will reward you by spawning eggs all over the tank, paving the way for the next generation of little, pink catfish.

5. Cherry Barb

Puntius titteya — female (above) and male (below)

Most people shy away from barbs because of their boisterous attitudes, but the 2-inch (5 cm) cherry barb is as tame as a tetra. This gorgeous schooling fish from Sri Lanka has some clear sexual dimorphism, so you can easily distinguish between the males and females. The boys have that bright, cherry red body with black-rimmed scales and a somewhat dotted black horizontal line, whereas the girls are tannish with a more solid black line. You can also find albino and long fin (or veiltail) versions at the fish store. Their lovely crimson colors look stunning in a forest of green aquatic plants, which is why they’re so popular with planted tank hobbyists.

A group of six can be kept in a 10-gallon aquarium, but we suggest getting a mix of 1–2 females for every male so that the boys will display their best breeding colors. They tend to swim in the lower half of the water column but are not picky eaters and will swim anywhere to reach their food. Look for products that contain naturally red ingredients (e.g., krill flakes, baby brine shrimp, and Easy Fry and Small Fish Food) to enhance their scarlet hues. Because of seasonal monsoons, they thrive in a broad range of water parameters, including 72–80°F (22–27°C), pH of 6–8, and soft to hard water. To learn more about suitable roommates and how to breed them, see our cherry barb article.

While we do not ship live fish, we have prepared a curated list of online fish retailers that we trust because of their high-quality livestock, premier packaging, and excellent customer service. Check out their latest stock and use our affiliate code aquariumcoop to get an automatic 5% discount.

If you add a new aquarium plant to your tank, it may look great for a couple weeks, but then it starts losing some leaves or just looks like it’s dying back in general. Don’t give up! It is common for aquarium plants to change and adapt when they experience a disruption in growing conditions. Learn about 7 reasons why this may happen and what you can do to give your plants the best chance to grow to their fullest potential.

1. You just got a brand-new plant from the store or online and added it to your aquarium.

Many plant farms actually grow aquarium plants out of water or emersed. This is for a few reasons — the plants grow faster out of water, tend to ship better, and can be kept free of algae. However, when you buy an emersed-grown plant and put it in your aquarium, the plant must then transition into a submersed-grown (or fully underwater) plant. The emersed-grown leaves are used to taking light and CO₂ from the air, so once the plant is kept submerged underwater, it has to adapt and grow new leaves that are capable of taking in CO₂ and nutrients from the water. When this happens, the emersed-grown leaves die off completely and the plant may appear to be “melting.”

Over time, the plant will regrow but may look a bit different than before as it takes on its underwater form. All the thick, broad, emersed leaves melt away, and smaller, thinner, submersed leaves will replace them. As long as it has healthy roots and is not moved once planted, you should see little shoots popping up within a few weeks. Also, it doesn’t hurt to remove leaves that are clearly melting. Simply cut off the dying leaf at the base of the stem or near the substrate. Rotting leaves can sometimes cause nitrogen spikes or algae growth, so it’s common to remove them unless your clean-up crew members consume the dead leaf first.

Trimming browning leaves on a Java fern plant

2. A plant that has already been growing in an aquarium experiences a change in water parameters.

It is normal for plants to melt or experience browning of leaves when they undergo an environmental change, such as moving from one aquarium to another or from your local fish store’s tank to your home tank. Altering the water parameters drastically in the same tank can also cause a similar effect. You may experience melting if you suddenly increase or decrease your fertilizer dosing, add CO₂ gas, interrupt your normal water change schedule, or make lighting changes. Even temperature changes like rising heat in the summer can alter the regularity of the aquarium ecosystem. Cryptocoryne plants (or “crypts”) are particularly susceptible to both the first and second types of melting, which is why hobbyists refer to as crypt melt.

The remedy in this situation is to simply give the plant time to adapt and regrow by giving it stable water conditions and plenty of nutrients. You can either prune the leaves one by one as they melt or trim them down all at once so the plant can focus on new growth. Keep the aquarium environment as stable as possible, and wait several weeks for the plant to come back.

When a Java fern leaf is growing a new baby plant, the mother leaf will eventually die off.

3. The plant is planted the wrong way in the aquarium.

Each aquarium plant has slightly different needs in terms of planting, so understanding your plant’s individual needs is key. Planting a plant incorrectly can cause it to suffer and cost valuable time and money to replace if it doesn’t make it.

If your plant is a bulb plant such as a lily, lotus, or crinum, it’s best to simply place the bulb on top of or partially buried in the substrate. The roots will naturally grow downward if planted this way, but if buried completely, the bulb will likely suffer as it needs to be exposed to grow properly. Rhizome plants such as Java fern, Anubias, and Bucephalandra need to have their rhizome (i.e., the horizontal “trunk” or thick stem from which roots and leaves grow out of) exposed and not buried in substrate. It is easiest to attach these plants to decor such as wood or rock, but if you want it growing in substrate, only cover the roots and leave the rhizome exposed as much as possible.

Stem plants such as bacopa, pearl weed, and Pogostemon stellatus do like to be buried deeply into the substrate. Rosette plants such as Amazon swords and cryptocoryne plants need to have their roots buried in substrate while the crown (or base of the leaves) is above ground. All these differences may seem small but can actually have a big impact on how your plant grows and looks in the long term. Read our quick guide to planting aquarium plants to make sure they get planted the right way in your fish tank.

4. Plants do not have enough access to nutrients or light in the aquarium.

Another reason why plants may shed leaves or appear to be melting back may be because they don’t have all the necessary elements to grow. For example, too little light or nutrients can cause leaves to yellow and die off. This is the plant’s way of consuming its older leaves to continue surviving in less-than-optimal conditions. If you notice your plant is struggling to grow, pale in color, or losing leaves one after another, consider regularly dosing with Easy Green all-in-one liquid fertilizer to give the plant plenty of nutrients to grow new leaves. It comes with a pump or drop cap so you can easily add the right amount of fertilizer to your planted tank. If you have rooted plant such as crypts, swords or bulb plants, using a nutrient-rich aqua soil or a substrate supplement like Easy Root Tabs can be a great option to provide even more nutrients for heavy root-feeding plants.

Additionally, even if your plants are receiving adequate nutrients, they may be lacking proper light for their growth needs, which would cause your plant to shed leaves or melt back. For example, this can happen to smaller plants that are overshadowed by other larger plants in a big tank. Giving the larger, bushy plants a trim can allow more light to reach all the plants in the tank. If your aquarium is a little dark, consider a light designed for plant growth. It is a great option to boost plant growth and reduce melting if they are not currently receiving enough light from a standard aquarium hood light. Adequate lighting and nutrients are crucial for growing robust, healthy plants.

If you ordered your plants online and they were shipped to you, it is possible that they experienced damage during the shipping process that can cause the plant to melt after you put it in your aquarium. It might not be apparent at first, but if the plant accidentally froze in its package, it may lose all its leaves or die off completely once placed underwater. If this happens and you purchased your plant from Aquarium Co-Op, send an email to our Customer Service team and we’ll be happy to take care of you.

6. A bulb plant may not grow if it is a dud.

A percentage of dry bulb plants, like dwarf aquarium lilies, sometimes are not viable and the bulb will never grow into a plant. If it has been many weeks since adding a new bulb to your tank and you still don’t see any signs of growth, it is likely that the bulb is a dud and you should reach out to the seller for a replacement. To mitigate this risk, Aquarium Co-Op offers potted bulb plants that are already sprouted with leaves and roots, ready to plant in your aquarium.

7. Anubias rot can affect the rhizome in Anubias plants.

Lastly, a rare disease called Anubias rot can affect Anubias plants where the rhizome of the plant becomes mushy and breaks down. This pathogen is difficult to control and may end up consuming the entire plant over time. Unfortunately, there is no easy way to save the plant except to cut off the affected parts and see if the rest of the plant recovers. This condition can happen at the farm, in our care, during transit, or during planting. With no specific cause or source to blame, we offer a refund or a reship of Anubias when this happens. Contact our Customer Support so they can help you troubleshoot the issue.

The best way to set your aquarium plants up for success is to provide them all the necessary elements they need to grow. Fertilizers designed for plant growth are an easy way to make sure your plants have the nutrient building blocks they need to adapt to your aquarium and thrive — especially in times where your plant may be experiencing a melting phase. For a complete list and more information on different types of plant fertilizers and how to use them, check out this article.